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nickaliath

Gti-6 Engine Loom Wiring Guide / Help Information

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nickaliath

This is for anyone who is struggling with the wiring on a gti-6 conversion. :lol:

 

I found a reasonable amount of info on the site, to help with my conversion.

 

I have decided to compile all my info on here for others to use, I hope it helps you all.

 

The loom i had was from a S-registration (1997-98 i think) 306 GTI-6.

 

The 205 is a H-reg (1990-91 i think) GTI.

 

I will continue in 1 Hours time. :blush:

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nickaliath

Something i would recommend if you are attempting this yourself is to get a multimeter, for example:

 

n56aq.jpg

 

If it wasnt for this i dont think i would have managed to complete the wiring succesfully!!!, it enables you to check resistance and voltage which are the main things to check whilst doing the conversion

 

 

Firstly there is a live loom on the original 205 setup, here is the diagram:

 

liveloomgti-6.jpg

 

I prefered to retain this 205 Live loom, found it easier.

 

When you get to the alternator connection on this loom make sure the live goes to the larger terminal on the alternator, (i made the mistake of putting it on the smaller one first which caused the engine loom to have no live)

 

This is your main source for live to the engine loom.

 

when you route all the engine loom wiring around the engine, you will find two ring connections to go to the alternator, a smaller and larger one. The larger one is the live connection for the engine loom. This when connected to the larger ring terminal on the alternator will make it live.

 

see below the two connections added to the diagram.

 

wiredalt.png

 

Ignore the question mark on the diagram.

 

Another thing i missed is the switched live to the starter motor which is on the engine loom, it is a small ring connection on the GTI-6, as i used the 205 gti starter i had to crimp a spade terminal on to connect this up

 

If its not turning over check you have this connected!!!!

 

ANYWAY I THINK IVE GOT AHEAD OF MYSELF A BIT, SO ITS TIME TO BACK TRACK!!!

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nickaliath

When you remove the original 205 GTI wiring loom you will find under the dash a two plug connection.

 

see image below:

 

DSC02615.jpg

 

The two connections on the phot have been seperated.

 

The top two hanging down are what stays in the car and the bottom two connectors are on the 205 gti engine loom. these will have to be cut off (ensure you cut about 13 inches of wire off with it to connect the gti-6 loom to) and joined to the new gti-6 loom.

 

Remove the rest of the 205 gti engine loom from the car.

 

Below is a picture of some of the various Gti-6 loom connections:

 

labledloom.jpg

 

Most importantly the two round multiplugs, the smaller of the two is unused in most cases and can be cut off (be sure to cover over ends of wiring).

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nickaliath

here is the wiring details for the 205 two brown plugs under steering column (as shown earlier),this is how they were on mine:

 

9 Pin plug

 

52 Reverse light (dark grey)

53 Reverse light (purple)

47 Coolant light (yellow)

47a coolant gauge (red)

7a Alternator light (dark grey)

30 oil pressure light (purple)

30a oil temp gauge (white)

30b oil pressure gauge (grey)

32a tachy relay (yellow)

 

6 pin plug

 

76 fuel pump (white)

M ignition amp (green/yellow) (Permenant earth)

112B tacho feed (grey)

112c not connected ( green)

2a switched live (red)

46b starter (blue)

 

 

When you do come to join the wires, it would be best to solder the joins and use heat shrink to cover the bare soldered wires. some people use crimp connections but they are rubbish in my opinion!!

 

heres the wiring details for the gti-6 loom

 

as were not worried about the small 8 pin loom were just concentrating on the 19 pin loom:

 

19 pin gti6 connector

 

140 obd socket (green)

141 obd socket (beige)

480 engine fault light (beige)

401 coolant temp gauge (beige)

M444 permanent earth (yellow/green)

414 oil level gauge (yellow)

415 oil level gauge (green)

410 oil pressure warning light (yellow)

465 vehicle speed sensor (yellow)

426 rev/tacho speed (red)

411 oil temp sender (red)

CC4 airbag control switched live (grey)

C120 Reverse light switch (grey)

220 Reverse light switch (orange)

123 lambda switched live (grey)

1070 Alternator warning light (dark brown/red)

400 Coolant temp gauge (white)

100 Starter motor switched live (thick white)

120 fuel pump switched live (thick white)

 

 

If the wire colours vary slightly, to check correct wires see if the numbers corrospond printed on wiring!

Edited by nickaliath
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stuart1298

Looks like this could help me out, doing a 2.0 8v turbo conversion, but the 205 side of things could be a great help

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nickaliath

Here is how i did the connections of the two looms. I joined the two multiplugs that i cut off of the 205 gti loom to the wires from the 19 pin round plug from the gti-6 loom

 

GTI-6 19pin round plug - 205 brown multiplug

 

Beige 401 coolant temp sender - Red 47a coolant gauge

Yellow 410 oil pressure warning light - Purple 30 oil pressure light

Red 411 oil temp sender - White 30a oil temp gauge

Grey c120 reverse light switch - Dark grey 52 reverse light

Orange 220 reverse light switch - Purple 53 reverse light

Dark brown 1070 alternator warning - Dark grey 7a alternator light

Thick White 120 Fuel pump - White 76 fuel pump

white 400 coolant temp gauge sender - yellow 47 coolant light

Grey CC1 air bag control Switched live & grey 123 lambda switch live - Red 2a switched live

Red 426 rev counter - Grey 112b tacho feed

Thick White 100 switched +live to starter - Blue 46b starter

yellow 414 oil level gauge - grey 30b oil pressure gauge (i wired the gti-6 wire plug end to go to the 205 oil pressure gauge that i have mounted on a t-piece)

yellow/green m444 permanent earth - m ignition amp permenant earth

 

Here is a list of the wires not connected 205 gti first, only one wire not connected:

 

32a tachy relay Yellow

 

 

heres the 306 gti-6 wires not connected, five on this loom.:

 

140 obd socket Green

121 obd socket beige

480 engine fault light beige

415 oil level gauge green

465 vehicle speed sensor yellow

 

any wires not used make sure they are sealed at the ends to stop any earthing out etc.

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SurGie

\Very good, worthy of being pinned.

 

A VTS one could be handy as well.

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nickaliath

Another important thing to do is to find the fuel pump inertia cut off switch, its a ovalish two pin black connector with two thick white wires.

 

To find this you can use the multimeter on resistance setting and check the resistance between the thick white fuel pump wire on the brown multiplug to one of the wires on the two pin inertia plug.

 

I will post a pic up of this shortly.

 

anyway when you find this you will nee to cut off the connector and solder the two wires together, done.

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nickaliath

Here is the inertia switch plug, that needs to be cut off and two wires soldered together.

 

DSC02765.jpg

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nickaliath

There are a few plugs that are not used on the gti-6 engine loom, i will identify them soon and post them up on here.

 

You will need a 4-wire lambda sensor fitted to the exhaust, if you havent already got one, otherwise the engine will go to a basic limp mode. i purchased a universal 4-wire lambda probe which is a lot cheaper than a OE part.

I will post up what each wire does on the lambda probe tomorow, with wire numbers

 

Tomorow i will post a wiring diagram and key for the GTI-6 engine loom and also for the 205 GTI engine loom.

Edited by nickaliath

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yippeekayay
There are a few plugs that are not used on the gti-6 engine loom, i will identify them soon and post them up on here.

 

You will need a 4-wire lambda sensor fitted to the exhaust, if you havent already got one, otherwise the engine will go to a basic limp mode. i purchased a universal 4-wire lambda probe which is a lot cheaper than a OE part.

I will post up what each wire does on the lambda probe tomorow, with wire numbers

 

Tomorow i will post a wiring diagram and key for the GTI-6 engine loom and also for the 205 GTI engine loom.

 

Thanks this is helps a lot with my question on yr build thread.

Is the 4 wire lambda the same as the lambda on the late 205s???

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Miles

They run fine with a Lambda, Well not 100% but not far off,

It's worth wiring in the Diag light as the 205 dash has got this fitted as std, Needs a bulb fitting or on early cars a wire to the rear of the dash,

The earth is not needed too

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yippeekayay

Miles how much to fit a supplied engine with the manifold pm me???? Or you can come and give me ahnd down my freezing unit??? lol

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nickaliath

well if it helps poeple it would be good to get it pinned :lol:

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nickaliath

Here is the wiring diagram for the GTI-6 Engine loom & also the key for the diagram :

 

gti6key.jpg

gti-6.jpg

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welshpug

It's worth noting that the earlier wiring loom (pre 97) had a few switched lives routed differently, there is a copy in autodata, and that the pinout of the two round plugs did vary so don't take what one person finds as gospel, but as a guide and always check that they match, even if the car is the same age :wacko:

 

(that applies to the donor gti6 loom as much as the 205 / 309 that they are being installed into, or ZX even in my case!)

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nickaliath

Here is the wiring diagram for the 205 GTI engine loom and wiring key :

 

xu9jawire.jpg

keywires.jpg

wirekeygti.jpg

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nickaliath
It's worth noting that the earlier wiring loom (pre 97) had a few switched lives routed differently, there is a copy in autodata, and that the pinout of the two round plugs did vary so don't take what one person finds as gospel, but as a guide and always check that they match, even if the car is the same age :wacko:

 

(that applies to the donor gti6 loom as much as the 205 / 309 that they are being installed into, or ZX even in my case!)

 

 

Agreed i found this when doing mine.

 

I just hope what ive compiled will help people on here :lol:

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hothatch

sorry to keep this thread going but i think my question is quite relevent, would apprecate a reply B)

 

would the wire coulours and codes on a phase2 gti be the same as the phase 1? i would imagine they would be but not too sure :/

 

thanks

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pug_ham

The numbers should be afaik but colours might differ.

 

As mentioned by Welshpug you really need to check each individual wire needed because there are some differences with switched lives etc.

 

Graham.

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nickaliath

with the wiring as it is you need to do an alteration to the existing rev counter to make it function.

 

you need to remove the display cluster, remove the clear plastic front window (which is held on by being clipped in around edges).

 

then you need to remove the two 6mm bolts that hold the rev counter part on and the small flat head screws next to the needle.

 

once you have done the above remove the needle taking care, its pushed on a pin.

 

with all this removed you will be able to prise out the rev counter face, take care as the face readings are stuck in the corners (well mine were).

 

you will see this when removed:

 

th_DSC02946.jpg

 

th_DSC02949.jpg

 

you will need to solder a wire across where marked with pen.

 

th_revcounter.jpg

 

below you can see where i have soldered a wire in place. (take care when soldering not to make it too hot)

 

th_DSC02953.jpg

 

job done, now refit and it should work a treat.

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SurGie

Good stuff.

 

Is the loom from the VTS have the same wire numbers with different colours or are they very different compared to the GTI6 ?

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nickaliath

well i found the gti-6 and vts similar. i used alot of vts info as a guide

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Guest ruffryder

hay guys.do u know what wire it is that comes out of the ecu from the 6 engine i know it red but mine dont seem to have numbers on ? :huh: coz on mine the signal box signal wire connects to a gray wire on the loom which then i beleave go direct to the counter but i think the signal box has gone up the wall so if i remove the signal box find the wire that come out the ecu then connect it to the rev counter or the gray wire it should work right? :)

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pug_ham
do u know what wire it is that comes out of the ecu from the 6 engine i know it red but mine dont seem to have numbers on ?

It should be from pin 42 on the ecu plug afaik so you ought to be able to find it with a multimeter easily enough.

 

By the way, you might have forgotten this part but;

when asking questions or making replies, make full use of vocabulary and grammar which means that "txt spk" and "CAPS LOCK" (aka shouting) will not be tolerated.

 

Also, only english language is allowed for use in public conversations

Graham.

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