[misc_work] Time For My Wheel Refurb Thread!

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Day 4

 

Got started well before dinner today, and got another wheel done fully, ready for the wet/dry sanding part. so got 2 out of 4 done and got started on the other two.

 

Second wheel face...

 

Inner...

 

As I've mentioned a couple times before, I'm not too bothered about the rough areas in the inners. Unless I shell out for shotblasting or acidic dipping, I won't get 100% off. But I'm happy with the 2 wheels faces. All they need is a going over with some finer grit wet/dry. Any suggestions on which to use? I'm only going over once as it's getting a little tiresome now, so was thinking something like a 400 grit (medium) and then primer after a good wash?

 

Had to stop for today as I have gone flat out and my arthritic wrist is saying no more today. Sods law it's the one I do everything with. Hey-ho though, more tomorrow.

 

Comments welcome as always... just gonna take longer than expected.

[pugman211 0]

anything between P600 - P1000 will do the job best for you there matey!

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

fair play to ya for the effort, i brought my smr's for £80 and luckily they had already been blasted and primered and yet i still havent got them finished.

two are ready for laquer and two are still part painted (in white also) in the airing cupboard.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Well I went to B&Q today and picked up some wire. About coat hanger width. My plan when they're ready for primer/paint/laquer is to hang them off some wire through the middles in my shed. It's not ideal, but maybe once they're touch dry I'll store them inside for 24 hours.

 

My reasoning is get a few layers of primer on without sanding between. Halfords stuff takes about 15 mins for touch dry, so bang on a few layers in one day. Then leave for 24 hours before flatting a little. Then painting with about 15 mins between coats, and another 24 hours before laquer.

 

Seems good to me.

[willmounsey 1]

Well I went to B&Q today and picked up some wire. About coat hanger width. My plan when they're ready for primer/paint/laquer is to hang them off some wire through the middles in my shed. It's not ideal, but maybe once they're touch dry I'll store them inside for 24 hours.

 

My reasoning is get a few layers of primer on without sanding between. Halfords stuff takes about 15 mins for touch dry, so bang on a few layers in one day. Then leave for 24 hours before flatting a little. Then painting with about 15 mins between coats, and another 24 hours before laquer.

 

Seems good to me.

 

You're getting on sound there mate

 

Aye the first wheel or two not that bad but it does get a bit tedious after a while

 

You could laquer after paint if you leave them to flash off for about 10-15 mins, it give's the laquer a better surface to stick to as to a dry surface.

If you are going to leave them 24hr before laquer im nearly sure you might have to sand or use a scotch-brite pad to key the surface for the laquer, if you dont id say the laquer will peel off in time.

 

If your handy wit a spray can and do light coats you could paint and laquer all in one night mate.

 

Will

[toddydal 1]

your doing a nice job there mate but like said dont leave 24hr before putting the clear on,did you know you can get 2k clearcoat in a arosol can now they sell it on ebay and it will be better than 1 pack stuff but make sure you wear a mask,i bought a tin and im impressed with it,you get an awsome shine with it,any way keep up the nice work and keep the pictures coming

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Thanks guys. I had no idea that the laquer had to be on pretty quick after the final paint coat. I 9stupidly) assumed that it was 24 hrs between primer-paint and paint-laquer, and that you only needed 15 mins btweent coats of the same, i.e. building up primer coats and then building up paint coats.

 

I'll defo bare that in mind and get the laquer on when the final thin paint coat is touch dry after 15 mins or do.

 

Thanks fella's much appreciated bit of advice there!

 

Willmounsey and Toddydal, may I ask you guys to look at this...

 

After reading your advice, I've basically got 2 options haven't I re. laquering.

 

First one is do my painting and when happy leave 24 hours, but then flat the paint down (more sanding ), and then apply laquer for supposed Halfords better finish (see destructions on can).

 

Second one (which seems quicker and you guys have advised), is apply last coat of paint, leave to flash (can some explain this term lol) for 15 mins, then apply laquer in 15 min blasts. This is quicker and I assume it (the paint) wouldn't get sanded.

 

Can I ask for confirmation that you guys have a mooch at this and just confirm I can do it the way you have advised. I wanna be 100% before I start, and it looks like it would save more sanding of the paint. Plus I don't wanna go out and be buying more stuff, as I did this on a budget, and it would be daft if the budget ended up being scaringly close to a "professional" job which would have been easier lolol.

 

TIA

 

Andy

Edited April 11, 2009 by chocolate_o_brian

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Found my original thread which I started ages ago when all this was a pipe dream!

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...=92951&st=0

 

One question I would like to ask...

 

When I've finished sanding the wheels down with the Alu. Oxide paper/Sanding drums/witre brushes etc, what grit sanding paper should I use before primering? And should this be wet when doing it?

 

Was thinking about 600-800 but wet sanding for a smoother finish but with something for the primer to attach to still?

Edited April 11, 2009 by chocolate_o_brian

[willmounsey 1]

Alright mate,

You could use a 320 before primer but anything between 300-800 will be sound an it wouldn't have to be wet.

 

The term flash off means to let the surface layer of the paint/laquer/primer to slightly dry, when you spray a coat on if you watch it it'll go a light mist on top and thats flashing off, if your spraying in a booth or well ventelated and heated room you will see this reaction occur alot quicker.

 

You can go by the intructions mate but that'll be more work for you (a hell of alot more ), everything ive ever sprayed i've always laquered after paint its much easyer and less time consuming

 

If i were you i'd prime themin one day leave them over night then hit them with a 360-460 wet to flatten, then hit with paint leaving 10 mins between coats then laquer same again.

 

You have to also remember its not a big area so any inperfections or even runs in the paint wont really be seen but you cant go wrong with the aerosol, just take your time and nice light coats (apart from the primer you can batter that on as it will be sanded )

 

Oh aye one more thing get tissue paper or similer and put it in were the wheel bolts go you dont want paint getting in there, leave it long enough so it can be removed easily after paint/laquer.

 

Will

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Alright mate,

You could use a 320 before primer but anything between 300-800 will be sound an it wouldn't have to be wet.

 

The term flash off means to let the surface layer of the paint/laquer/primer to slightly dry, when you spray a coat on if you watch it it'll go a light mist on top and thats flashing off, if your spraying in a booth or well ventelated and heated room you will see this reaction occur alot quicker.

 

You can go by the intructions mate but that'll be more work for you (a hell of alot more ), everything ive ever sprayed i've always laquered after paint its much easyer and less time consuming

 

If i were you i'd prime themin one day leave them over night then hit them with a 360-460 wet to flatten, then hit with paint leaving 10 mins between coats then laquer same again.

 

You have to also remember its not a big area so any inperfections or even runs in the paint wont really be seen but you cant go wrong with the aerosol, just take your time and nice light coats (apart from the primer you can batter that on as it will be sanded )

 

Oh aye one more thing get tissue paper or similer and put it in were the wheel bolts go you dont want paint getting in there, leave it long enough so it can be removed easily after paint/laquer.

 

Will

 

 

Thanks for that, nice and indepth mate. Decided today I want to get all 4 wheels to the same stage of sanding. If I can't finer sand them today, I shall do it tomorrow morning, wash the wheels and then primer tomorrow afternoon. As I'll be spraying in my shed which isn't ideal temp wise, I'll primer the buggers, let them become touch dry and then sit them in the house somewhere overnight.

[willmounsey 1]

Found my original thread which I started ages ago when all this was a pipe dream!

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...=92951&st=0

 

One question I would like to ask...

 

When I've finished sanding the wheels down with the Alu. Oxide paper/Sanding drums/witre brushes etc, what grit sanding paper should I use before primering? And should this be wet when doing it?

 

Was thinking about 600-800 but wet sanding for a smoother finish but with something for the primer to attach to still?

 

I was reading the link above and one thing platty mentioned was a wheel sealer, it would be an idea alright as my wheels were white and yes the brake dust eats into the laquer and stains the white.

 

I know ive mentioned using other sand paper to others but its all down to preference and that's what i find comfortable to use (knowing i'll get it right the first time) it could be different for yourself mate.

[willmounsey 1]

Thanks for that, nice and indepth mate. Decided today I want to get all 4 wheels to the same stage of sanding. If I can't finer sand them today, I shall do it tomorrow morning, wash the wheels and then primer tomorrow afternoon. As I'll be spraying in my shed which isn't ideal temp wise, I'll primer the buggers, let them become touch dry and then sit them in the house somewhere overnight.

 

Good idea it'll ensure that its fully cured when you tackle them with sandpaper.

 

As i siad about the wheel nut holes i should of explained more (sorry was still half-asleep at that time )

if there's paint were the tapered piece of the bolt touches the wheel (in the hole) when you tighten the wheel bolts it'll crack the paint and the pressure on the wheel bolt will be less as the paint loosen's and crumbles in time thus loosening the bolts (if that makes any sense) so its imporant to cover these holes so no paint covers there.

 

Sorry im not the best at explaining things mate im a bit more pratical than anything.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Good idea it'll ensure that its fully cured when you tackle them with sandpaper.

 

As i siad about the wheel nut holes i should of explained more (sorry was still half-asleep at that time )

if there's paint were the tapered piece of the bolt touches the wheel (in the hole) when you tighten the wheel bolts it'll crack the paint and the pressure on the wheel bolt will be less as the paint loosen's and crumbles in time thus loosening the bolts (if that makes any sense) so its imporant to cover these holes so no paint covers there.

 

Sorry im not the best at explaining things mate im a bit more pratical than anything.

 

No mate, totally follow you. I did think you were referring to the recesses and not the actual holes the bolts pass through, but then I did click on after some cog twitching Also, gonna get onto Polished Bliss next week and have them send me some Merzerna Intensive Polish for the bodywork and some Poorboys wheel sealant. It's supposedly the best stuff out there for the money and I'll coat the wheels about 5 or 6 times before putting them back on the Pugrot.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Day 5

 

Thanks to my mother calling me at 11.30 when I was about to start and requesting a lift to go food shopping, I didn't get started until approx 2pm today. But in that time I've got the third wheel done, ready for fine sanding and a bloody good wash.

 

Inside of the rim (bare in mind it's covered in fine paint dust)...

 

During the sanding of the face with Alu. Oxide paper...

 

Finished...

 

So as an update, I have the last wheel to sand down with my drill pieces and Oxide paper. See what time that takes me too and how my wrist plays ball until then. I may get some of the finer sanding done tonight, but it depends on when I get the forth wheel finished and how spare the Mrs goes when she sees all the bathroom tiles have a grey coating

 

More laters gentlemen...

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Wheel no. 4 is done

 

So all thats left before paint is a fine sanding down and a really really good clean.

 

I've got 4 bits of 120 grit wet/dry and 1 piece of assorted upto 1200. I think (as I'm lazy) that I'll use the 120 grit but wet tomorrow. See how smooth I can get it. Then when flatting the primer, I shall use a finer grit wet/dry paper.

 

So wheel 4 inner before...

 

And after...

 

One thing I have done is give the walls of the wheel a sanding. On the inside of the rim edges on each side and across the actual width of the wheels too. I'm not gonna bother sanding these bits though, will only sand the rim edges as no bugger will see them!...

 

By this time my fingers were literally raw and starting to bleed lol. That shows how much sanding effort's gone into these fuggers...

 

Front face finished...

 

And...... all 4 ready for tomorrows fine sand...

 

I'm gonna go in the bathroom now and assess the mess. Probably got a couple of hours hardcore cleaning with Mr Muscle to keep her in drawer's happy

 

More tomorrow peeps, any hints and tips are most welcome as always.

[pugman211 0]

One more VITAL piece of advice i can give you, is when you spray the aerosol. Go completely from one side to the other of the wheel BEFORE you let go of the nozzle. The reason for this is, sometimes you can end up with paint spits/drips from the aerosol itself, and seeing as your doing such a good job, it will be heart breaking seeing a big blob of paint in the middle of the wheel.

 

I also when doing alloys, i tend to spray a coat from left to right. then up to down if that makes sense and just generally watch the edges of the spokes to make sure the paint is even in colour etc.

 

Looking forward to the pics tho!

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

One more VITAL piece of advice i can give you, is when you spray the aerosol. Go completely from one side to the other of the wheel BEFORE you let go of the nozzle. The reason for this is, sometimes you can end up with paint spits/drips from the aerosol itself, and seeing as your doing such a good job, it will be heart breaking seeing a big blob of paint in the middle of the wheel.

 

I also when doing alloys, i tend to spray a coat from left to right. then up to down if that makes sense and just generally watch the edges of the spokes to make sure the paint is even in colour etc.

 

Looking forward to the pics tho!

 

Thanks for that, will note it down. When spraying I'll make sure the primer can is well shaken and there aren't any spits to start with. Suppose the advantage with primer though is you can sand it back quite vigourously if needs be.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Day 6

 

I decided that before using some wet/dry paper for the finer sanding, I would give the wheels a soak and rub down first. I didn't bother with my Karcher, just used a sink of warm water and Fairy liquid...

 

Simply put an old bath towel down on the kitchen work top (bathrooms clean after 2 hours wall-wall with Mr Muscle last night!), and dunked the wheels. Give them a light going over with a washing up pad and then dried with another tea towel...

 

All 4 done and dried...

 

As I type this, I have some wet/dry paper soaking in a fresh bowl of warm soapy water. I'm going to try 240 first and see if I get decent results. Was gonna go with the 120, but maybe a bit course and wouldn't leave a smooth enough finish for the primer. Again, I'm not gonna achieve 100% finish wise, but would like to get as close as possible. Plan is to sand the wheel faces and the rim edges on either side with the finer paper (papers if required). Sod the inners, they're fine as is for primer!

 

More laters, when I will be showing you how to ruin a shed and make a beam for hanging wheels off!!!

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Just finished sanding the 1st wheel with 240 wet/dry paper. I must say the difference is surreal. Afterwards the surface is a lot smoother with only tiny imperfections which the primer will cover surely.

 

As an example, here are two of the spokes on the wheel I just sanded wet.

 

First a sanded spoke with 240...

 

And an unsanded one left from yesterdays Alu Oxide sand (60 grit)...

 

And as a comparison, this is the first wheel sanded with 240, and rubbed down of grime...

 

Sompared to the next wheel up for treatment...

 

I felt I had to share this as the wheel finished is so smooth and theres hardly and imperfections even after 240 grit.

 

Will report later when the other three have been done. Having a few mins for dinner then will crack on while the Mrs is still out

[GLPoomobile 958]

I like the patterns left behind on the 240 sanded wheel.

 

Leave it like that and be different

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

I like the patterns left behind on the 240 sanded wheel.

 

Leave it like that and be different

 

LOL

 

I did actually consider just laquering it like that to see what reaction I'd get

 

But on closer inspection, I'd look a fanny. So gonna go do the other three now me thinks...

 

Looks like primer will be tomorrow now instead though

[kennygti 0]

Looking really good so far mate. Just a little hint from when i do mine, once you have sanded down the wheels and have them ready for primer, give them a generous coat and then sand that down with 800 w&d being careful not to go back through to metal. Once you've done this give them a few coats of paint. When painting with primer or top coat (as im sure you already know this and not trying to patronise) always do a very light dusting first as ive sometimes had a reaction with he paint and the metal. If you do the dusting first you get a very thin layer of paint for the rest of the paint to adhere to. If you wanted to be a perfectionist, once all your coats are dry (more than touch dry ie couple of hours) go over them with 1200 w&d before you laquer for a glass smooth finish.

Sorry if you knew this and feel im patronising just thought id share my views from past experience.

 

Kenny

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Looking really good so far mate. Just a little hint from when i do mine, once you have sanded down the wheels and have them ready for primer, give them a generous coat and then sand that down with 800 w&d being careful not to go back through to metal. Once you've done this give them a few coats of paint. When painting with primer or top coat (as im sure you already know this and not trying to patronise) always do a very light dusting first as ive sometimes had a reaction with he paint and the metal. If you do the dusting first you get a very thin layer of paint for the rest of the paint to adhere to. If you wanted to be a perfectionist, once all your coats are dry (more than touch dry ie couple of hours) go over them with 1200 w&d before you laquer for a glass smooth finish.

Sorry if you knew this and feel im patronising just thought id share my views from past experience.

 

Kenny

 

No, no fella. Appreciate it. I'm not following the dusting bit though. I was gonna wash the wheels down after the final sanding and wipe with paint preperation wipes. Then do 3-4 coats of primer and sand when dry with 800-1200 wet/dry paper. Then I'm lost on what you mean't. Can you explain it a bit more. I've never held a rattle can in my life.

[kennygti 0]

haha sure when i say dusting i just mean so that the paint that comes out of the can is dusted onto the wheel rather than keeping your finger permanantly on. Do light sweeping motions left to right and dont get too close or build up loads of paint in one area or it will run. All you can do is your best and you wiull have it perfect by the 4th wheel. Just remember if it goes wrong then its not all over you just have to spend a bit more time sanding!!!

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

haha sure when i say dusting i just mean so that the paint that comes out of the can is dusted onto the wheel rather than keeping your finger permanantly on. Do light sweeping motions left to right and dont get too close or build up loads of paint in one area or it will run. All you can do is your best and you wiull have it perfect by the 4th wheel. Just remember if it goes wrong then its not all over you just have to spend a bit more time sanding!!!

 

I follow you now. Dusting as in short blasts from side to side and light coats built up.

 

No worries. I thought you may be referring to a method of lfuffing the paint to give it a rough texture for sanding.... I know, I know, blonde moment!!!