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  1. Today
  2. Sivar Sivar changed their profile photo
  3. Yesterday
  4. Valentaa Valentaa changed their profile photo
  5. bigsuv
    Yes I have spark and fuel. No immobiliser fitted. Good point re. timing belt. I wonder if the oil spill has caused the timing belt to slip? I made sure the distributor was pointing at cylinder 1 when at TDC, but didn’t think about the cam timing being out. I will take a look and see if I can pin them together. Thanks!
  6. Telf

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    Telf replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    Barney I have a hardly used clutch and standard flywheel sat in my lockup if you want it. I took it off the car during the build. It's done maybe 2000miles
  7. Telf
    Sorry reread yes you have fuel and spark...it sounds very similar to when mine had a slipped timing belt. It was 2 teeth out. It stank of fuel and would crank and not start. Have you pinned the cam and crank to see if they can be pinned together? Mine slipped after a few 1000 miles from a new fitment. It actually got progressively worse. Misfires, over fueling and then complete failure
  8. Telf
    Does it have an immobilizer of any sort fitted?
  9. Telf started following Another Non Starter
  10. Telf
    So it's cranking and you have fuel and a spark ? Correct?
  11. jackherer
    To fully check the temp sensor and its wiring you need to measure the resistance on the sensor itself and check it is correct for the temperature the coolant is at. Then identify the relevant pins on the ECU connector and check the resistance is the same there. These are the resistances vs temperature:
  12. bigsuv
    Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll check the temp sensor. Connectors have been checked and cleaned, but will check again. I have already tried pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking it as I suspected I’d flooded the engine. While I got a brief murmur from the engine it didn’t actually catch and I’ve had nothing since.
  13. bigsuv
    Sorry I should have said. It is. Standard 8V non cat, early ph2
  14. jackherer
    It sounds like it might be over fuelling so I'd check the ECU temp sensor and AFM, also their electrical connectors, the terminals can get pushed back into the housings sometimes. New parts can fail so you need to test them just the same as old parts. As a test you can pull the fuel pump fuse while cranking it, if it briefly fires up as the fuel pressure drops then this points to over fuelling.
  15. Telf
    I presume its a standard 8V with no modifications?
  16. Natalie Natalie changed their profile photo
  17. Telf
    Anthony- it has transpired that Emerald didn't map the car with the MAP sensor active- they can give no reasonable explanation as to why not. Pretty annoyed tbh. The car is going back next month and we will see whats what then.
  18. Telf
    despite replacing the starter solenoid wiring as far as the brown plug under the dash im still having issues with it not starting- particularly if the car gets hot. I know its a known thing on 205s but its bloody annoying! Anyway the other day it happened again at Kierans place- as soon as we injected 12V directly onto the solenoid contact it starts so im going to do the relay Mod and remove and resistance related issues with the start circuit.... Bloody stupid car!
  19. Paulfraiser Paulfraiser changed their profile photo
  20. welshpug

    Base 205 Suspension Lift Camber

    welshpug replied to Davetouch's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    I would do some measuring with a rod end and a bolt and spacers/washers before committing to anything permanent like drilling the taper out. It used to be a common thing with lowered 106's to swap from the standard balljoint and place them underneath the steering arm, However this did not actually make it better, if anything actually worse! (106 has a high mounted rack and top mounted track rod ends) when I helped build some inverted struts for a friends 106 rallye rally car we built them up with standard geometry minus 10mm, and ended up with a few spacers to place the joint in almost exactly the oem position, and when Dave from Satchell Engineering checked the geometry and bump steer we had luckily nailed it and got no bump steer!
  21. bigsuv started following Another Non Starter
  22. bigsuv
    Hi All, Long time lurker, first time poster, I’ve found this forum incredibly helpful over the years. Hopefully you can help me again as I’m really stumped... Last year I sent my 1990 1.9GTi off to Miles at PugRacing for an extensive refurb/restoration including full engine rebuild, wiring etc. Naturally, when I got it back it was like a new car! I’d been happily driving it around since, until a couple of months ago when on a drive I found myself with smoke pouring out the engine bay, through the cabin and out the back of the car. I pulled over and cut the engine immediately. When I checked under the bonnet I found oil all over my shiny new engine bay - the oil breather had come off the cam cover! Luckily I had some old rags and mopped up all the oil I could by the side of the road, popped the breather back on, and cautiously returned home, where I then attempted to mop up the rest of the oil, where I could reach. And then topped the lost oil. There was some oil in the spark plug holes which I mostly managed to get out, but some presumably got through to the cylinders. Everything seemed fine a few days later when I got back in the car to meet up with some friends. Started up no problem, drove for about 30mins, pulled up at some lights, idling perfectly as usual, then when I went to pull away it cut out, and I couldn’t get it restarted. Pushed myself into a petrol station out of harms way and then had another look under the bonnet, couldn’t see anything untoward. Eventually after about 30mins of trying it burst into life, and I decided to try and get back home. I experienced a couple of misfires and loss of power on the journey home until it eventually cut out completely. I couldn’t get the car restarted after that so admitted defeat and got towed the rest of the way home. I haven’t been able to get it started since. Apart from the occasional pop/bang when cranking there has been no sign of life. Here’s everything I’ve tried since: New dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads, plugs. New Coil, and another blue Bosch ign amp. Distributor refurbished by H&H. Checked timing - Rotor arm pointing to cylinder 1 lead at TDC. Checked and cleaned earths, they seem ok. After finding a loose connector in the ign amp plug Ive got a spark, and getting strong smell of petrol when cranking with spark plugs out, but can’t really hear the fuel pump with ignition on or when cranking. Fuel pump itself was replaced by Miles, as was the water temp sensor. AFM was also replaced, along with most other things during the restoration. If anyone has any suggestions as to what it could be and things to try I’m all ears! I’ve read through so many posts about non starting issues and have tried to work through the various other suggestions. Miles is also aware of my problems and I’m waiting for him to become available to do some other work but I really would rather the car got down to his under it’s own steam than on a flat bed. Please help! Thanks in advance, Adam
  23. Elwenca Elwenca changed their profile photo
  24. Snecko Snecko changed their profile photo
  25. SRDT
    Try 405 Mi16 seats, Peugeot fitted them in the 309 GTI/GTI16 and both 205 and 309 share the same floorpan. You can even fit the 309 GTI rear seats and door cards.
  26. jeffery jeffery changed their profile photo
  27. Bart
    Alright, you guys convinced me For now the stock gearbox will stay in there, but after I save up some it will be replaced with a BE box! As for the engine/car, a few updates. First I promised some pics: Since the car served as a daily on a farm, a good clean up was in order. Also got the first goodies for dat sweet volumetric effeciency Will clean the car up further today, and hopefully also install the 106 seat that I got. If people are interested, I was planning on writing a short how-to on how to convert a 106 chair to fit in a 205. Decided to do this since 205 gti seats are outrageously expensive over here, but I do want some better seats
  28. Tom Fenton

    Base 205 Suspension Lift Camber

    Tom Fenton replied to Davetouch's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    The taper is machined into the steering arm, which are integral with the hub. One way to do it would be drill the taper out to a parallel hole, then change the track rod ends to a rose joint and allow you to alter the steering arm position up and down to improve the bump steer. You would need to make some parts on a lathe, or have them made.
  29. dawning
    Hi, hoping someone here might be able to give me some advice. I've just replaced the engine mounts, suspension arms, and a front spring on my Citroen c15 which shares its parts with the 205, put it all back together and it will barely move, juddering and locking the front wheels. The front of the car rides up then rolls backwards when I try to drive it. I had to take the long drive shaft out to do the engine mount and was careful not to damage it but I'm thinking this is the only thing it can be. There's a bit online about driveshaft over extension, but it doesn't seem to be that common. Does anyone have any experience of this? I could buy a new drive shaft for 60 quid but that seems crazy as it was working fine when I took it apart. Has anyone got any experience of this? Can I pop it back into place of have I destroyed it? Tried to drive it a few times as well thinking it might have been the brakes as I replaced them as well. Really appreciate any help. Rich
  30. Davetouch

    Base 205 Suspension Lift Camber

    Davetouch replied to Davetouch's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    I realise I didn't update this - it now sits on the 405 diesel springs/shocks with 309 lower TCA and 309 driveshafts. I found that the ARB being tight was pulling back on the arms and pre-tensioning the whole suspension system which made it drive really weirdly (twitchy and wandering a lot). It now runs with a loosened ARB so its secure but without any tension in it (at least in the fore/aft direction, obviously roll still does have something in it) and this means it drives mostly fine. It has about 0-1deg of positive camber which isn't great so I hope to lower it down by maybe 5mm to straighten this out a little while also helping the driveshafts as they're at stupid droop levels. This may be done by returning to 205 springs and strut spacers . For now though it is OK it just has horrific bump steer. I wonder if its possible to rotate the track rod end tapered seats on the hubs by 180 degrees as that would probably help.
  31. Last week
  32. glenembling glenembling changed their profile photo
  33. Batfink

    Base 205 Suspension Lift Camber

    Batfink replied to Davetouch's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    Far too simple lol
  34. ScoobyJawa

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    ScoobyJawa replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    CTEK fine. Bosch S4 battery - garbage
  35. Steve Bell Steve Bell changed their profile photo
  36. Olioli
    I believe i have the correct engine code/ref above for a 1991 205 xs. I am after an engine that runs well. Does anyone have one?
  37. sp_en_ny started following Cti Window Scraper And Seals
  38. sp_en_ny

    Cti Window Scraper And Seals

    sp_en_ny replied to sp_en_ny's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    Yes still have it, I did eventually find a drivers side couple of years ago but after 6 years still on the hunt for a passenger side and kind of accepted its now very unlikely to find one. I am now of the opinion the only way round this will be to have two or three that have shrunk, cut them up and join them together to make one, no doubt wont look great but cant imagine it being any worse than one that has shrunk an inch or two.
  39. Andy
    I hope not, unless you mean the ring terminals . They connect to my fuse box via screws rather than spades, and are then covered by a Perspex lid . These after market items are never as good as o.e stuff but the other options I found for fuse boxes used spade terminals which I like even less . This box has 12 earth terminals and 2x6 individually fused supply rails which has been handy for coils, injectors, ecu and lambda sensor . Then I have seperate fused relay switched supplies for the fans, fuel pump ( both ecu controlled ) and a rad switch trigger for the fans as a backup which also keeps them running if the engine is stopped and ignition off . I have also used the fuel pump relay to trigger the coil relay , so the latter are only live if the pump is running . No car progress today. Off out with a mate to see how close we can get to a hundred miles and have a stop at a pub , all before tea time ( well, 6.00pm when I promised I would be home )
  40. PhilNW
    Rad relatively new and soft water area so don't think internal furring an issue
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