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  2. mmt


    Hi Guys Ran my engine varm last night in the garage. I could hear a vissing noise from the expansion tank cap. Tightening it did not help. Is hissing bad or ok? Use it for track only - water temp usually fine. do I change the tank or is it ok as it is? thanks /M
  3. Tguedes98

    Project: Xu12J4

    Meaning that with 87x92mm the piston has to be dished? it can't be domed? to have a 12.0 CR I would probably need a flat piston only with the valve cutouts right? What do you mean by "zero squish"? The flat part of the piston coming up to the block? Many thanks
  4. TomSaintJames

    XU9 flywheels and clutch

    Cheers guys.
  5. petert

    Project: Xu12J4

    87 x 92 will need a dished piston, such Honda K20 turbo. Then you will have zero squish with a custom rod. A -7.7cc dish gives approx. 10.7:1. Part number CP SC70402
  6. Tguedes98

    Project: Xu12J4

    Yeah, I've seen that thread! I'm not to keen on taking a dremmel to my block for the crank to clear tho... Would like to make something simpler!!
  7. Tguedes98

    Project: Xu12J4

    Hi welsh! Not exactly sure what pistons to use! I wanna take it a little higher, but I still want to use pump gas (98 octane), not race fuel, so probably around 12.0 to 12.5 I'd say, so I can keep using pump gas. Will have rods custom-made to fit the 26.xx mm journals, no doubt there! I'll have to go forward and see the best option regarding pistons! Would like to use off-the-shelf forged pistons for Peugeot and use like a 0.76mm cometic gasket for maximum squish! So maybe get the rods custom-made to fit an off-the-shelf 20/22mm gudgeon pin piston! What do you say Welsh? Hey mate! Yeah, I'm definitely not using a 96mm crank mate! I wanna try and keep the build as simple as possible! 92mm crank will be more than plenty for what I'm after! Also, I already would the 92mm crank and she's in mint condition! Thanks anyway mate!!! Do you recommend any specific brand on con rods that will make them to spec? Many thanks! Hey Petert! Most definitely that's what I'll do! Custom con rods made to work with a thin cometic gasket, so I have a nice squish band, and made to work with off-the-shelf pistons! My only problem is that off-the-shelf pistons are not made to work with 92mm cranks, so the squish band will decrease, leading to lower engine efficiency - not cool - and thus, fewer horsies. My solution would be machining some mm's off the top of the piston domes to take the compression down a bit, otherwise, to have a nice compression, squish band will not be in the correct range cuz I'll be forced to make shorter rods to compensate for the longer stroke! Do you guys agree with me? Or what do you say? Many thanks!
  8. Yesterday
  9. that would be an amazing result.
  10. I have the same EPROM ! Also , i know someone from over here who can make you an copy of it but , let's see if he recommends himself first without me revealing who he is (failing that we'll ask him ..) D
  11. I take it the EPROM is still available to buy new?. Or can they be flashed clean?. Looking at an older thread from Damir I think the one I need is 27C256, I can have a hunt online and see if I can get a new one. Just need to find someone that can write the file on
  12. 1 267 356 723, I even have this file so the sticker looks factory.
  13. The image is the EPROM in the ZX *212 ECU. Not sure if that's original looking, as I've never had one apart before to be sure about them. I'm wondering if someone has messed with the map on it possibly?. Which may not flag an internal error code but would make it run badly without logging an error. Not sure how correct I am with that. Is there anyone on here that can write a new EPROM?. I wouldn't be able to do it but will check with ACT tomorrow if they still have the tools for it.
  14. Yeah so I put the ZX EPROM in the BX ECU and the fault came back. I didn't get time to try it the other way with BX EPROM in the ZX ECU, which I'll do tomorrow to be 110%
  15. Dangerous Dale

    205 Gtx - Done The Wrong Way

    Hi Max. I’ve now got this car and after far too many years off the road I’m bringing it back into commission. Can’t wait to get out in it.
  16. You could have a new EPROM programmed, we have two versions of the software floating around. Was the EPROM original with a bosch sticker that has the software revision printed on it? A poorly modified EPROM should still have the original checksum and trigger the 54 "bad ECU" error code so it's a bit strange.
  17. Tried also ZX chip in BX ECU ? EPROM might be still good , but faulty ECU board , or some other chip or diode , resistor etc. on the ZX ECU . D
  18. Swapped them over and fault returns so looks like the EPROM or whatever map is on there is causing the issue. On one hand frustrating, on the other it means there's nothing else wrong with the engine/wiring. My concern here is that if I send it off for repair/check will they just return it with the same map. I doubt many places these days would have the files for an old ECU like this to redo it.
  19. There should be a socket for the EPROM, the few ZX ECUs pictures around shows one.
  20. Edit:. Swapped EPROM and the fault returns, looks like it's the EPROM itself causing the issue.
  21. You don't have the 54 error code so the EPROM should be fine. You could try to put it inside the BX ECU and see how it goes.
  22. Going to have to get this *212 ECU tested/repaired. I haven't driven it as I know the map will be wrong but using the BX *206 ECU it now idles as it should with lambda reading and a steady 900rpm tick over. That's with the sensors plugged back in as they should be, so it's 100% an ECU issue, Swap the *212 one back and it faults again, which confirms it for me. Once the cold start mode goes off the ECU just isn't deciphering the information provided correctly. Possibly had a poor repair in the past which would explain the warranty stickers. Messaged ATC to see if they still repair them as it does list them on their website.
  23. Possibly some wiring loom error then ? previous repair or you're looking at the ECU terminals from the opposite side ? Sticker wise likely something was done to it , needed repair ... i've seen a few on sale stating "defective" , and one with an ECU repair shop sticker . Not sure if there's real closed loop on these like modern cars with Zirconia , me thinks not . Haven't really had time to try and play with the O2 signal and WB meter to see what this system does compared to Motronic 1.3 . Not a lot info with regards to Titania O2 either , as Zirconia is more common in use nowadays on modern cars combine with WB AFR sensor . But for what i remember and if remember correctly , readings wise it's opposite on Titania to the Zirconia ie. high readings on Tinatia meaning lean , low rich . D
  24. Swapped IAT and ECT wires, runs perfectly. This really doesn't make sense now . Rechecked wiring: pin 13 is ECT signal pin 22 is IAT signal So they're now essentially plugged into the wrong sensors but it runs perfectly, O2 sensor sits at 1.0v and switches when revved as it should. Had a look at my ECU as well and it has some "warranty void if removed" stickers that do not look Peugeot original. Am I just being dumb and missing something really obvious? ITS THE ECU WOO HOO. As a hail Mary I decided to try that BX ECU again and it's spot on now, it's red hot, fan kicked in and still has a steady idle with O2 sensor switching as it should. Now I need to find a ZX ECU or get this one repaired.
  25. Did a bit more today. Fuel pressure seems low to me at 1.9 bar idle, flicks up to 2.5 when revved. Now that's at the join to the rail, while I have the jetronic testing kit I'll test it before the fuel filter to see what difference, if any there is. From memory we put a 6 bar sytiec pump in it many years a go when the original gave up the ghost, as it was in the workshop not being used. It has had an adjustable regulator on it for years and had the same issue but it's now got a standard one on it since Friday. What's making me scratch my head, is on initial start cold start it's absolutely fine, it's once it's out of that cold start it then goes bad. I've also found Lambda signal is reading fine (going between 0.10-1.0v when cold/open loop), but once warmed and closed loop it just sits at 0.10V and doesn't make any adjustments. Whether these have closed/open loop I'm not sure as I'm used to the modern pugs, but that is the best way to describe what's happening. I'll swap those plugs and also give the BX ECU another go and see what happens. Oh one more think, I took the injectors out, one seal looks ropey so will order some new ones while I'm here, checked the spray and all 4 spray the same. Looking into the valve chamber the valves are spotlessly clean as are the chambers. Found the SAD valve has stuck in the open position so blanked the pipes and no different, probably won't even need it to be honest. I have noticed it sounding a bit "tappy" so will check the 4 branch for any cracks and may as well check valve clearance Monday night.
  26. greenclaws1975

    205 radio aerial

    Apologies if this has been covered before..what is the best aerial to fit to the 205. Does the 206 aerial fit ? My car had a hideous aftermarket chrome aerial and the cable had been fitted behind the headlining and was poking out so it had to go. Fortunately the old aerial cable was still in there so I was able to tie some string to it and pull it through.. Bought one of the cheap aerials of ebay...had to take the din plug of as it was too big to fit through the channel that goes down the A pillar. I took a photo inside the section above the sunblind .. the channel the cable goes in is barely big enough.. Got the new cable pulled through and sourced a screw on DIN plug for the radio...but the ebay cable is about 1/2 metre too short! Are longer aerial cables available with the ring that fits on the aerial or will I have to fit an extension to the lead ? Thanks all
  27. Nope , injectors are the same .. even on 2.0 XU RFZ engines running Mp3.1 too . I tried few different injectors on this management , and no problems what so ever , finally settled with some *155 series yellow twin spray nozzle (from S16 i think ..) .. i also have adjustable FPR and tried playing with pressure , but none of these caused idle issues .. i even tried installing ISCV , but that one oddly didn't work right so took it of and fitted SAD back . First when i installed the loom , i've been running it on *212 ECU without lambda , and afterwards with lambda but wrong one (Zirconia) and that too had no effect on idle . And my loom is from 605 with factory lambda wiring , so seems like these Motronic Mp3.1 ECU's aren't so lambda heavy as 3row Motronic 1.3's which do go bananas with duff or wrong lambda . Haven't tried plugging it on a WB meter to see what's up with the mixture with these ECU combinations , if going by feels/sense , if nothing i'd say it was running more lean than rich on *212 ECU at certain rpm's/loads . But then , my engine is not standard so it needs and can tolerate more fuel anyhow . Try just for s*its and giggles , change places of the IAT and CTS connectors ie. IAT on CTS and vice versa , and see what happens ... readings of both of them are about the same and same 2pin connector , just the CTS will be in more heated source aka coolant while IAT will stay on kinda cooler environment in the inlet tract . I'd also try that *206 BX CU once again , but this time take the CTS out from the thermostat housing and leave it resting out plugged in the wiring , try starting and see what happens . Also , could be vacuum leak causing this , while MAP system is not as sensitive to vacuum leaks i'd still check .. especially cracks/leaks on the exhaust upstream of the O2 sensor . Incorrectly adjusted or bad TPS could be too , and that will not necessarily trip a fault code . Power switching off from the electrical system , also might not be so good ... resetting the ECU over and over so doesn't have time to relearn/adapt and keep that adaptation . D
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