All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Yesterday
-
Cloud308 changed their profile photo
-
gus romain changed their profile photo
-
Tuckedwxm92 changed their profile photo
-
Mototommy joined the community
-
Andy Redmond changed their profile photo
-
Turbo 8v on citroen ZX loom how to guide
cocofredo posted a topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hi to all , I'm Fred from France . I just made a turbo 8V conversion (we call tct here in France) and I'd like to share my work . I started from a 806 as a donor car . Conversion has been made on a ZX volcane 2,0i. On the 806 loom , you'll fond two big round plugs : one black and a maroon one. I decided not to cut zx wires , so I made a custom intermediate loom between the 806 one and the round 13 pin black plug on the car . I precise that information are given here for a 806 conversion on a ZX . Other models are not covered. Pinout on 806 loom Maroon plug : 1 - BM6 wire --> ECU battery + 2- 480 wire --> check engine 3 - BB14 wire --> battery + dual relay 4 - 122 wire --> lambda sensor going from double relay to fuse on dashboard --> on a zx no fuse affected so see pin 5 5 - 123 wire --> lambda sensor from dashboard fuse to lambda sensor . So on my ZX I put a fuse holder between 122 and 123 wire 6 - Not used 7 - 1368 wire --> not used 8 - BB13 --> battery + dual relay 9 - 120 wire --> fuel pump 10 - Not used 11 - Not used 12 - Not used 13 - Not used 14 - 822 wire --> immobilizer not used 15 - 8053 not used 16 - 6294A wire not used 17 - 821 wire --> immobilizer not used 18 - 142 wire --> check engine 19 - 1234 wire --> A/C not on my car 20 - 8055 wire --> A/C not used on my car 21 - 140 wire K line for diag 22 - 141 wire L line for diag 23 - 820 wire immobilizer not used Black plug : 1 - 100 wire --> Starter 2 - Not used 3 - M444 wire --> Ground 4 - 1071 wire --> Alternator 5 - 414 wire --> oil level 6 - 415 wire --> oil level 7 - 401 wire --> blue sensor coolant 8 - Not used 9-1622 wire --> Dashboard computer not used on my zx 10 - C12 wire --> Reverse lamp 11 - 220 wire -- Reverse lamp 12 - 808 wire --> Maroon coolant temp sensor for vehicles with A/C 13 - 8081 wire --> Maroon coolant temp sensor for vehicles with A/C 14 - CO2P wire --> Ignition switched battery 15 - 8079 wire --> for A/C 16 - 410 wire --> oil pressure light on dashboard 17 - 428 wire --> rev counter 18 - no wire 19 - no wire 20 - CC04 wire --> Ignition switched battery 21 - no wire 22 - no wire 23 - MM11 wire --> Ground Let's go to the zx side : + battery is made by these to black wires going into this socket --> you will connect wires 1 (BM6), 3 (BB14) and 8 (BB13) from the big maroon plug . There's no fuse on the ZX for the ECU so I put a fuse holder between BM6 and BB13/BB14 to protect the ECU . This will going to to pins 8 11 14 and 15 on the dual relay and pin 18 on the ECU. You'll find also a 4 pin socket with only 3 used 1 - no wire 2 - Rev counter 3 - Fuel pump . Once again no fuse on the zx for the fuel pump so I put a fuse holder between wire 120 from the big marron plug and this wire. 4 - oil temp if you have the sensor on the oil sump (zx engine has got one but 806 no) the 14 pin round plug on the ZX : 1 - Starter 2 - Ignition switched battery 3 - Alternator 4 - Oil pressure lamp on dashboard 5 - water coolant sensor 6 - Reverse lamp 7 - Reverse lamp 8 - water coolant sensor 9 - oil level sensor 10 - oil level sensor 11 - oil temp sensor 12 - oil pressure gauge 13 - check engine light 14 - No wire I will add pictures , give more info on a few days. Thanks -
Started to strip the underside in the above areas. First car I have ever done, and cant believe how mush seam sealer is in these areas. Is this the norm?
-
That looks good - I like that you can easily measure / move the tracking without the wheels on. I used a couple of magazines under each tyre as makeshift turn plates - works well, but is still awkward to get to the track rods to adjust with wheels on.
-
can I repair alloy and still use tyre after kerbing
DamirGTI replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Misc/General Technical
Indeed , there's very skillful people who can make wonders with alu. wheels .. back in the days , had one here locally , at the time was an old man with gray hair and glasses and that one was able to "stitch up" alu. wheel broken in three pieces like pro ! (was 13' alu. wheel from my R 5GTT) Nowadays , there's even spec. machines for repairing broken alu. wheels . With regards to "cosmetic" scuffs and tears on the outside of the wheel , clean up/de-grease with Acetone or similar , prep the area with 40-60grt. sanding paper (needs to be a bit "rough" for the epoxy to stick better/stronger) and fill up the scuffs/tears with 2pack epoxy metal .. leave it to harden/settle .. then you can sculpt/work on it with sanding paper or mini grinder with various grinding wheels , once done spray with silver paint and it'll be like new . D -
Cheers for the encouragement it's getting somewhere near, the thing that's making me hesitant to take it is the likelihood of some silly things breaking, like exhaust hangers/rubbers and stuff. A couple hundred miles snagging it would have been ideal. I am pretty confident that it'll be ready for an MOT, that said need to fit the screen with my brother and his mate tonight, so as long as we don't bust that we should have a complete car come Sunday. The brakes I would think are the pistons being a bit sticky and seized in the front calipers, the master is a new (though only a cheap pattern part) and the rear slaves in the drums are new, I'll re bleed everything and flush the fluid again as the stuff that was in it was obviously pretty rank, so it could have a bit of that lingering around. Like I say if they don't come too I'll go and swap the calipers with the other car I have. I'll ring the local motor factors today and get some drop links sorted, I think the drop links on the other car are also goosed otherwise for the MOT I'd just nick them.
-
Blkbrett joined the community
-
joecrum changed their profile photo
-
can I repair alloy and still use tyre after kerbing
pugdamo replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Misc/General Technical
If your wheel is clean on the face I would still go with a local wheel specialist, I don't think there would be much difference in cost for a repair over getting a second hand wheel, plus you know the condition of your wheel, I think my local company is £50 plus VAT for a rough idea on cost. -
Xu9j4 head bolt head size
petert replied to davemar's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I have the same issue when I use XU9D head bolts on XU10J4 engines. If you're sure they're M11x1.5 and the length is correct, put them in a lathe and turn a bit off the heads. - Last week
-
Xu9j4 head bolt head size
davemar replied to davemar's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
They appear to stock the actual bolts I bought here (made by BGA): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bga/10767270 I bought them years ago, possibly the old-fashioned way by going into a shop (remember those?). -
19mm bendix type master cylinder seals replacement
DamirGTI replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
To be honest , best to buy complete new master cylinder ... they're still available and really not expensive/pricey . And having/fitting an new one now , it'll be looong time till you'll need it again (probably +20 years ahead .. if not longer if you change the brake fluid on a 2 year basis) Used to rebuild them MC in the past , but haven't done one for quite a while .. nowadays , for newer makes/models usually new MC it's the only option , no repair kits anymore like in the old days . Aside from the seals , need to consider the rust damaged/pitted cylinder bore ... if the rust got into the insides , forget about it . Might rebuild one as an spare , but i really wouldn't want to drive with one other than new .. it's really important braking component , thus not worth the risk for a few quids worth new MC . D -
how is that? one vote wont make the torque and power of the Satchell setup, I doubt you will see any difference in build quality.
-
Xu9j4 head bolt head size
welshpug replied to davemar's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
0204 57 is the oem part number for the headbolts, M11x1.50-175, the same for both 8v and alloy 16v, no dimensions given for the heads, though the spacer underneath is specified as 24mm for the 8v, and 22mm for the 16v. -
Xu9j4 head bolt head size
welshpug replied to davemar's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
what is the part number on the Box? -
Xu9j4 head bolt head size
davemar posted a topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I'm just putting my Mi16 1.9 engine back together after taking it apart, and am just putting the head on. I had a pack of 'new' unopened head bolts in my stash of bits which have been there for years, so I was pleased to find these and not have to fork out for a set. But when I tried to insert these bolts I wasn't having any luck in getting them down the holes. I realised that the flanges on the head of the bolts were getting jammed in the holes in the head. So I decided the measure the diameter of the flanges on these 'new' bolts and the old ones I had. The 'new' ones were 22.5mm, and the old ones 21.5mm. So this extra 1mm made them too big! The package stated they were for the XU range of engines, and they were all the correct length and thread and everything. Does seem very odd though. Maybe they were made for the 8v engines and never checked for fitment on the 16v engines? Obviously I'm going to have a buy a new set of bolts, but want to avoid get another badly fitting set! -
.thumb.jpg.4cd0ff1975caf85028c117a453a4fd59.jpg)
Advice wanted about the speedo drive fitting to gearbox BE1
Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Gearbox & Drivetrain
got it today yeah looks great much better to replace thanks again -
19mm bendix type master cylinder seals replacement
Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi posted a topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
I have collected 3 old 19mm bendix style master cylinders does anyone know where I could get replacement seals separately? I know there is Frenkit 119016 which is correct for these cylinders but that also means wasting money on other parts in these kits which I don't think I need like the circlip and the big seals for the reservoir which seems to be perfectly ok. also this one got a little water in should have been more careful little bit rust is there a cheap small diameter hone for MC anyone knows about? or just wrap a long drill bit etc? with brake cleaner on should clean out nice? I guess also there is the performance and reliability issues most important just have three of them seems shame to bin three of these outright without asking anyway any advice appreciated -
can I repair alloy and still use tyre after kerbing
Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Misc/General Technical
thanks @welshpug bought this one as a back up in case the old one cant be repaired- still looking for alloy wheel repair place local. trying to do this between working hence taking long this one is the best I could get on ebay as pictured. next day delivery. weirdly enough this is the only one listed is there anywhere better I should be looking? (lesson 1 for me - the old tyre on the rim was also run on flat so when I levered off the tyre all the bits went everywhere LoL next time use a dust sheet) only thing now is this one the face is really scuffed - been front face kurb-ed cosmetically only though its sound structurally no bends etc not sure how to go about tarting it up - needs cosmetic repairs to the face? Ill add a couple photo close up any further advice also be great -
205GTI rally car barn find
Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi replied to 28hodge's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Just wanted to join in the thread really - I'm not a pro so this could be missing the mark but possibly the seals in the master cylinder have gone over time? do the brakes stay on with the pedal down? just I had the same thing - really felt like the brakes weird - was the seals in the master cylinder rotten from looking through the site from other posts for the drop links lemforder good? brilliant work really good to see it all getting done -
Omex sounds like the one with more votes. Now it’s about running it past the boss. lol.
-
seoexpert joined the community
-
Nice effort! I copied the Murray axle stands and added 2 2m-rulers to measure the toe; diff measured at the front and back and calculate the toe with excel... Still need to do a similar back side frame to get the steering wheel really centered. Replicates the wheel with weight on it, but with freedom to do measurements:
-
Built a frame to bolt to it for setting the tracking: Damn site cheaper than one of these! https://www.murraymotorsport.com/b-g-racing-string-lines-kit-bgr200?currency=GBP
-
Oscar78 changed their profile photo
-
Matthew85 changed their profile photo
-
Alexandre_barbosa changed their profile photo
-
Kev14 changed their profile photo
-
can I repair alloy and still use tyre after kerbing
welshpug replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Misc/General Technical
whilst certainly repairable, as those wheels are so plentiful I'd be more inclined to just get an used replacement. -
I have not had many early nights in the last 10days!! Managed to get the doors wings and bonnet prepped, the wings and bonnet aren't great so only got a minor amount of prep and they want replacing with better items, I do have a fibreglass bonnet so maybe should have prepped that but it wants a skim of filler and then sanding back with a guide coat to get it perfect, and I don't have the time, so will do that at a later date as the actual priming and spraying only takes an hour for each operation. The doors were in better shape, the passenger was a GTI door but in green the drivers door that came with the car was dinged so I prepped a grey door I had, its not a GTI door though so will need the drill the rivets etc. I had them all finished off on Sat morn and left them to harden off a little on Sunday before I started building the doors back up and fitting them the rear bumper and the arch trims etc. Standard door that needs the rivets. MOT booked for Wednesday 20th next week if it passes that there is half a chance it'll make the Targa on the 23rd. Though how sensible taking it to a targa as its first activities after sitting in a worksshop for 25years is debatable as i would imagine it really wants 2000 miles of snagging. Issues that still to sort - CV boot on passenger driveshaft, I have another shaft so can just swap it in I hope! if not stretchy boot time. need drop links brakes are working but feel s*itty, I have a whole other 205gti so I may be going to rob the calipers from that electrical issues, I have a lad coming Fri to help with that who loves building looms etc (odd if you ask me as I hate electrics) Get the windscreen washer working Gravitax the underside refit the sump guard I'll say its 50-50 as to whether we make the Targa.
-
pmcg1990 joined the community
-
Omex are better build quality IMO
-
Jose B changed their profile photo
-
Atogti joined the community
-
omex are the same as jenvey, still a similarly compromised inlet manifold. get the satchell one.
-
can I repair alloy and still use tyre after kerbing
pugdamo replied to Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi's topic in Misc/General Technical
If you buy one new wheel you will end up getting 4 because it will make the others look bad lol. At least this way you've got no worries of anything like a blow out. Glad it helped.
