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  1. Today
  2. Archie's mid life crisis

    Mystery metal spacers / shims

    Hi, I've started building up my 89 1.6 Gti after completely disassembling it. I had the original bolts, metalwork etc. sent away to be yellow zinc passivated. I have got the length of reinstalling the engine and have come across 4 spacers / shims in my box of parts - see photo. I can't remember where they came from. They appear to match the spacing of the alternator mount to block bolt holes but i'm pretty sure they weren't there when i disassembled the car. In any event if i do put them there the alternator mount doesn't sit properly. Can anyone shed any light on where they go?
  3. BoxGTi

    LED headlights full beam not working

    The contacts in the stalk get worn over time. Had a similar issue with mine. Replaced with another unit and now works perfectly. Not sure if it would have to do with the LED's that you have installed since they run off lower power. Put the old bulbs back and check if it fixes the issue. Then you would know if it is the bulbs or the stalk.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Nithy

    1988 CTI 1.6 Heater Motor Access

    http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/6/64M01A.HTM is this site still working? it worked for me for a while and not I cannot access the site for some reason
  6. Nithy

    1988 CTI 1.6 Heater Motor Access

    Sorry I ment to say, the blower goes on, when I plug in th working resistor without the control switch being pluged in... At full speed... Normal?
  7. mmt

    Balljoint

    Thanks mate.
  8. You need the full mount and bolts, as they're engine specific. You also need to figure out what alternator setup you will run too. Also, when engine is out you need to adjust the brake servo mount holes to move it upwards a bit, I usually just elongate the holes in the bulkhead
  9. Hi, im looking to complete this in one weekend so i dont hold my ramp up for days.... i have the GTI-6 engine, i dont have the mount that bolts to the block. Do i use the original GTI one or do i need this part? many thanks
  10. boldy205

    Balljoint

    Is it a roll centre kit you need? If so Bridge craft can supply this I believe
  11. Well, I got an our on the car this morning and so far the ecu is still locked. I tried it initially with the transponder ring removed from the ignition barrel but the immo key symbol remained on the dash & obviously the car wouldn't start so I had a few tries while it was powered up. Where is the bsi / immo box live on the Xsara? I think i unplugged the airbag / pretensioner ecu that sits under the centre console, which obviously made no difference to things. Which of the wires do we think I need to find & cut? CAN-H B/H3 CAN-L B/H4 Or all; K-line B/H2 L-line B/B3 CAN-H B/H3 CAN-L B/H4 Just for safety? g.
  12. Last week
  13. Should clean up fine provided it isn't cracked but they are prone to pulling threads when doing up the head bolts .
  14. Hi Guys, is there a replacement balljoint for the 309 wishbone Where you Can put eg. A 10 mm thick washer between the hub and the wishbone? anyone supplying such plug and Play things? in need of lowering. Thanks M
  15. Maybe some flat top pistons depending on the skim on the head, a XU5JA/XU9JA/XU52C/XU5M cylinder head with bigger valves could also help. Peugeot had a 125hp kit for the XU5J and it was mostly head + cam + spark plugs.
  16. I am less and more knowledgable now! The AFM seems to read okay now and matches a used unit I bought with the same part number. The old engine coolant temp sensor oddly seems to be alright too, now that I fitted a new one. I narrowed it down to a faulty injector on C3 (now that I know the engine counts from clutch end...). Unplugging it while up to temp drops the CO by over 1vol% whereas the others each make no difference at all. Let's for once hope that is progress towards a smoothly running thing. On a less beautiful note: I took the 180Z to pieces and am... don't know. It's rough, but I reckon it can be rescued. The question at hand is what can be done to a "standard" 1.6 without requiring an ECU upgrade/map. New liners/pistons + new camshaft and a skim/valve job are in order either was, bearings were original and looked fairly decent for 120k+ miles but will be replaced. I am not looking to break the bank but do it right still. I am looking at a Piper Fast Road 272 or a Newman PH1 286 and a matching adjustable cam-pulley, a lightweight flywheel (mine is badly rusted) and maybe some weight matching on the piston/rod assembly if I feel like it. Sensible or forget it?
  17. 200,000 or 5yrs ! good news then I wont touch it! yeah as its a diesel I do my oil and filter changes at 7,500k and I've just put on a new tbelt already so about 3yrs for the next one thanks much appreciated
  18. Hi all, it’s been a long time since I’ve posted here for a variety of work/personal reasons. I’m looking for recommendations on places to continue some rust repairs I started following an MOT failure due to rust in proximity of the RH front suspension. With travelling due to work I just won’t get round to it. It’s pretty much a rolling shell now with the front on castors on a diy subframe and the rear still on the beam. I’ve got as far as starting to cut metal out, but due to the location and extent -mostly surface but it has spread a reasonable amount, but need someone to finish it off. The affected area is pretty much all around where the chassis leg meets the bulkhead. Depending on costs I may look to go a bit further and have them go over the rest of the shell (e.g above the fuel tank). Can anyone recommend somewhere around Milton Keynes/Bucks that has a good reputation for this kind of work? It would be great to save the shell and get another GTi back on the road! Cheers, Geoff
  19. I had to look a bit more into it and before PSA created the 0501.K7 crank that replaced all the older ones you could find two types of XUD*TE/DW10 cranks: those with rolled fillets and those without. Rolled fillets cranks are using classic 2.28mm thrust washers (0118 G2 ex 0117 79) but the other cranks need 1.83mm ones (0118 F4 ex 0117 95) so some XUD*TE/DW10 cranks will fit as is but others need the right parts. The thin thrust washers are becoming harder to find and more expensive so keep it in mind if you're looking for a cheap crank.
  20. It could be the darlington transistor that failed then.
  21. the wording from the Haynes manual is ' Checking should not need to be a routine operation' 'it should only be necessary when the valve gear becomes noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace cause of power loss' so yeah, leave it alone! given the amount of work required to adjust them, especially on a diesel, I wouldn't bother checking them until a belt change interval, which is 72k miles or 120k km, or 5 years. good oil and frequent changes will make them last longer, keeping the carbon levels in the oil down.
  22. welshpug

    1988 CTI 1.6 Heater Motor Access

    mope, not normal rheostat is probably faulty anyway though, hence some bodgery, shouldn't be hard to find.
  23. Nithy

    1988 CTI 1.6 Heater Motor Access

    PUZZLE Puzzled... I removed the lower dash, and disconnected the control panel switch(slide control completly, so no Heating control rheostat ), switched the car on the blower goes at a constant speed. As same power as I have menntioned in the posts above.. so its getting power even without the control switch, is this normal???
  24. Puzzled... I removed the lower dash, and disconnected the control panel switch(slide control completly, so no Heating control rheostat ), switched the car on the blower goes at a constant speed. As same power as I have menntioned in the posts above.. so its getting power even without the control switch, is this normal???
  25. Nithy

    1988 CTI 1.6 Heater Motor Access

    Thanks Fellas, Appreciate your feedback, let me go have a look.
  26. DamirGTI

    1988 CTI 1.6 Heater Motor Access

    Here's one : https://www.boutique-laventure-association.com/en/peugeot/9162-heating-control-rheostat.html D
  27. People (younger especially) working @ PSA dealers/services , in general all over the globe , are pretty clueless about older models and unwilling to search parts for them (especially if asking via mail or phone .. in person , well that can be interesting) .. same can be said for the most of the other car brands/makes dealers/services . Usually (most always) when you ask for the specific part for older model , if it's available and how much it costs you'll get the reply - "no , we don't have that anymore" . Then when you ask by the part number for that the same part - miraculously they will suddenly find it , with the price per piece and amount left on the stock or availability for order if not on stock . Thus you're best bet is : pull out all the factory part numbers by yourself , call you're local PSA dealer and tell them - specify what you need based on the part number and amount , no need to ask them anything about the part specifically or ask them to find for you what you need , those days are long gone by now .. unless you get lucky and bump into some "old timer" working at the dealer or generally employee who is willing to help you out by lifting his a**e off the chair and fingers and eyes off the smartphone . If still no go , there's Peugeot museum website , where you can find parts for older models .. old stock and re-manufactures : https://www.boutique-laventure-association.com/en/26-205 D
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