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1.6 rear brake cylinder bolts
miamigtimark replied to miamigtimark's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
I take it they are brittle? - Today
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Thank you so much ! That will save a lot of trying to understand the Haynes Manuel ! It appears it’s sending a life to the foot lights or hazard warning switch will have a look and check now I no cheers Olly
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jantalb changed their profile photo
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Reidy changed their profile photo
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Georgenewman1 changed their profile photo
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Puggyfan changed their profile photo
- Yesterday
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King size please.
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1.6 rear brake cylinder bolts
Tom Fenton replied to miamigtimark's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
No Never use stainless in load bearing or critical places. Brakes being one. Buy 8.8 grade zinc plated for this job. -
Byrlol changed their profile photo
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1.6 rear brake cylinder bolts
miamigtimark replied to miamigtimark's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Thanks very much. Stainless jobs orders off eBay -
1.6 rear brake cylinder bolts
jord294 replied to miamigtimark's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
M6 x 12-15mm will suffice -
Has anyone ever ordered these and if so where from. Mine are starting to round off. im after the ones that go through the back plate and hold the cylinder in place.
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MOT emission Test
Zetec7 replied to Telf's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Just a thought Phil, have you tried covering up the vents into the rear quarter's. The ones inside the door jams at the back off the doors. Also just try extending the exhaust a foot with a bit of pipe just to see if it makes a difference. -
I took the wire from the ignition key, and connected it to the coil of the relay, with the other pin of the coil going to ground. The switch part of the relay goes between the starter solenoid and +Ve battery via a 30A fuse. I've mounted the relay near the battery holder on a DIY bracket, so it sits under the battery. Does that make sense?
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I tried refitted my door card after it being off the car for a while and it really struggles to clip on. The main problem being that the card itself is very warped, so is wanting to pop the clips out. Has anyone tried cutting their own card and refitting the cover/foam/plastic on it? The material just looks like bog standard hardboard sheet that's used in the backs of flat-pack cupboards, so surely can't be too hard to work with. The only tricky looked part is getting the bend at the top.
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If I had the money I would get mine resprayed, but going through a nasty case of gold-diggeritis these days. How would a respray cost these days?
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Nice to see another getting put back on the road, keep @ the welding practice makes perfect.
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it is always easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission
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MOT emission Test
PhilNW replied to Telf's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Think you have more investigation to do, the fundamental problem is that some smell or fumes are getting into the cabin in particular circumstances. not a good situation. Exactly what to you mean by exhaust smell, carbon monoxide, petrol, oil fumes (due to blocked breather?) , something burning off due to heat? -
Steel Sump Sensor...
bacardincoke replied to bacardincoke's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Found a few old posts... yet to read through them all, but these two stuck out as immediately useful - oil-temperature-wiring sensor-wiring This extract's probably most relevant to my situation, I imagine I'm going to have to track down the wire that would have originally gone to the sensor and identify / replace the sensor - seems to be different thread sizes. I also seem to have the 7 pin brown connector. My wire colours for it are 90% the same as those described in the 2006 posts. The oil temp sender however looks to be in the same position / colour no matter what, which is good! This post might help & it has picture of the brown plug. A breakdown of the wire numbers & what they go to is; pin1=Brown=7A- Alternator. pin2=White=not readable. pin3=White=30A- oil temp sender unit. pin4=Grey=50A (I think). pin5=Blue=46- starter solenoid. pin6=Yellow=47- coolant temp switch. pin7=Red=47A- coolant temp guage sender. -
Teagie89 changed their profile photo
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What paint did you use, and what colour were you trying to get?
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I put together a list of what all the connection do on the fusebox (see pdf). Ideally for the stereo use want to use connection 'U', which has a switched and non-switched +12v supply. fusebox_connections.pdf
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The black one with the two brown wires is the supply from the battery; so that's where your +12v come into the car.
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I'm wanting to try save fucx if possible so weve begun stripping it back to see just how bad the rust situation is. We ran out of time but next is to get the front wings off. Tom took the rest of the engine and exhaust out and it's now living in the workshop instead of in the shed. Tom's nova shell has been kicked out to join the 1.6. Poor nova but not much chance of that getting a look in just now.
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Finally got a free weekend to get something done on the gti. Tom patched up the floor as a few holes. I've not had much experience doing anything like this so he set me up and guided me in removing a "rusty hole" and repairing it. The panel was quite bent with the heat so no where near the correct shape but I thoughly enjoyed myself. Clear to see I need more practice before I go near my 205. We then painted the floor after rubbing it back plenty! So pleased with it, the cage needs touched up and roof liner needs attention as it's been wet in the past but otherwise its looking good inside! The underside is getting the next lot of attention which will hopefully be soon.
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You can see I left the sunroof in but removed the glass. left rear bumper on and rear screen in but removed rubber surround/ seal
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You will be lucky to find the sunroof trims without clips missing. You can find b post vinyl pre cut on eBay just anticipate every piece of trim being a pain to remove and you will break loads of trim clips etc. at least source new side / arch trim fitting kit and maybe bumper mount parts. stripped mine for respray 2 years ago
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Steel Sump Sensor...
Tom Fenton replied to bacardincoke's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
That’s the location for the oil temp sensor, but that doesn’t look anything like a oil temp sensor I’ve ever seen. They have a small stud and nut to take a ring terminal, not a spade, on every one I’ve ever seen. -
Hi - looking at a full re-spray on my 1990 G reg. and want to put back as original as possible. Black decal on b pillar and door edge - was this factory standard as mine are actually painted? Also - should there be branding in the super arms - what was standard? Factory vaccuum sunroof- need replacement trims if there are any out there? Appreciate any other re-spray advise as I’ll be stripping the car myself before going fir paint. Thanks
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Tony Thomassen changed their profile photo
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Get it ordered.
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