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Mi16 twin Dellorto fueling issues
Wallby replied to Wallby's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Thanks guys. I've ordered a fuel pump housing so hoping that will make a difference. If it doesn't then I'll be getting a swirl pot. I've also just bought and fitted some 'anti-surge' top cover gaskets for the DHLA's, anyone know anything about those? Described as 'for motorsport use', but can't find much info about them. Reebmit - Do you run a return line from the swirl pot to the tank? - Today
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Got some clear Valeo new on the shelf
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Mi16 twin Dellorto fueling issues
Reebmit replied to Wallby's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I had same but now run a swirl pot and all good now..... you don’t want too much pressure with carbs..... -
I've taken 1/2 the console to bits .. I found that when I disconnected plug K the earth signal stopped . Thinking this was something to do with the instrument panel from K5 I took all those plugs off too. No luck. So I disconnected the earth under the dash and with K connected the earth signal went again... So I've checked the earth cables off the multi earth there under the dash. . I found 1 of the cables kept the earth signal on but the rest didn't . Traced again . Now I find that I've plugged this twin cable pictured into the earth block that's just above the fuse box. With it disconnected and everything else connected no more earth on the live sidelight cable. This twin cable is labelled M10A and M10B . I can't find them on the diagrams. Any idea please?
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New engine run in
Thijs_Rallye replied to Telf's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I hope I didn't come across offensive because that certainly wasn't my intention :). Anyways, you have a (approximate) 20/30 minute window in which you can make or break the seal between the rings and cilinder. I understand you shouldn't be fully loading up a cold engine, but letting it idle (even for the sake of warming it up) is in the time you have your precious break in window. Cheers Thijs -
My only experiences with Klokkerholm 205 parts are a base model OSF wing which was very poor, and some front and rear bumpers, not a very good fit they also turn from black to grey in a few months exposure to daylight, unfortunately I still have 3 of those in stock.( in a dark cellar) Have You used any of their 205 clear front indicators? My experience of Depo 205 clear front indicators is that all three were not up to much. The other aftermarket brand 205 clear front indicators I tried were, four Owl branded ones, about the same as Depo. Has anyone used a Prasco 205 clear front indicator please? Are they like Depo and Owl ones?
- Yesterday
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Breaking In Camshaft
DamirGTI replied to Alan_M's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Nothing really needs to be done to "break in" used cam .. adjust the valve clearances , oil up and fire up . Rockers if they're worn , should be replaced , or they'll damage the cam on the long run .. are the roller type ones better i'm not sure , i don't do many TU engines so can't speak for that . D -
Not lights/indicators , but bumpers .. "Prasco" brand is the crappiest crap of the aftermarket bodywork parts you can find ! Italian made . Few years ago , an bastard middle age woman rear ended my 205 on a parking lot (no to mention that she blamed me for smashing my car in the first place ! pms i guess or plain and simple - bastard) .. and for fixing up she bought me this dreadful "Prasco" rear bumper as an replacement , which was too short in length on the sides , and thinner than the OE item .. i had to bend/stretch it like an banana to be able to make it fit on the mounting holes , and yes the car now looks crap from behind . If you can't get a hold of Valeo indicators , second best cheaper aftermarket i would recommend "Klokkerholm" , "Depo" , "Van Wiezel" or even "TYC" is not so bad either . D
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Riddle me this: Headgasket or not..
dt_ replied to Bovien's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
If you are looking down the plug holes by eye it might be difficult to see exactly where it's coming from. The water might be beading up on the lightly oiled cylinder wall and 'rolling' down which may look like a drip, or maybe the head is cracked slightly higher up -
Head skimming questions
Miles replied to ArthurH's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Do a leak down test, no leakage then it's good to go but your 1 in a million for a valve not to bend, Should of come over as I was at Brands on Sat with the Hot Hatch and Armed forces -
Maybe a silly question, but I plan on fitting a used camshaft to my beastly 306 1.4 and was wondering about breaking it in? I know about new cams and breaking in but what about when the cam is used. I'm not sure you can clean up the rocker faces on TUs and I don't really want to buy new ones. I was planning on lobing some assembly lube on and going for it. Oh, and are roller rockers better in TUs?
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Like I said before the wire is probably corroded on one side at least which would mean you're not getting continuity to your short on the other side.
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Head skimming questions
ArthurH replied to ArthurH's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I thought continuing with this 'story' was the best way to post this next question. We completed the engine build, had a track day at Brands, and took it to ATSpeed for a rolling road dyno set up. Both of those went well. First meeting of the 2019 season was also at Brands; a double header on the 13/14th April. Disaster struck. James outbraked himself in the damp going into Paddock and slid into the gravel trap. The engine stopped, the marshals towed him out of the gravel - but the engine wouldn't fire. They rolled him down Paddock Hill to attempt a bump start - but still nothing - so he was towed back into the paddock where we tried again to start it. Had spark and fuel. Took the timing belt cover off. The belt was broken. Gravel had got under the belt/lower pulley. Bear in mind we had been spinning the crank on the starter motor. I gently tried turning the camshaft from its bolt - it seemed to turn 'normally' - at that moment the pistons must have been appropriately clear of the valves. Our logic was, what have we to lose if we fit a replacement belt and try it? It took all day to get another belt (two motor factors lied about having one in stock) but we drove home and got one - took it back to Brands and fitted it. To our considerable surprise, the engine ran - didn't sound rough. James went to see the Clerk of the Course and got dispensation to start the second Sunday race from the back. The race was good - James overtook many cars - but was a bit down on lap time from the test day a few weeks earlier. The engine doesn't seem to spit or pop any more than before the breakage. A long preamble - but my question is - how was the damage not far more severe? Has this happened before? Is it worth the effort and expense of stripping the engine (that is a lot of James' race budget) or to carry on? -
Depends where you put your probe from your multimeter . If you disconnect both plugs B and C , you can easily check if the power feed to each front lamp is grounded or not without getting any bypass effect on the internal wiring of the fuse box . That will tell you if the positive supply from the fuse box to the relevant front light is faulty ( ie grounded ) . Then, as you say, replace the offending wire from the appropriate plug to the corresponding light .
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Peugeot 205 1.9 8v starting issues, same old story.
Rutia replied to Rutia's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
i think you might be right richie, bloody mapco dizzy cost me 100£ and it's never felt right, bloody hopeless thing! one thing to mention tho, when running the car the last time it was sat up, it died at a set of lights after a 4 min drive, during this drive the ht lead on the coil was connected to the coil however the insulation rubber cap wasn't correctly fitting, under inspection once the car was finally brought back and checked over it turned out the coil was arcing to the water pipes/surrounding areas during the drive, could this affect anything? Everything buy the loom/ starter has been changed starter seems to be working correctly and with no issues at all, it seems strange really and i wish i could just figure it out, there's no decent auto electrians around the area that want to tackle the job either. that's what i've currently got the firing order set to as per checking TDC etc etc. Thanks for the comments guys you've been really helpful in helping crossing stuff off the " IT COULD BE F*CK'D" List If there's anyone in the area with a spare Dist that i could try briefly i would def be a happy chap. -
Has anyone ever used a prasco front indicator, later type, if so were they a good fit and did they look ok?
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Having sat and thought about it I'm also certain I've seen the sidelight indicator come on during the build which would indicate it did work at some point...
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I only have short to earth on the driver's side not the passenger . This is confusing as they are according to the diagram linked to fuse F13. So if one power line is short to earth you should be able to detect it on both but it isn't true. The cabling from the switch via R7 isn't at fault as when you pull that plug out the fuse box the earth condition remains. I haven't disconnected plug V yet or K which would remove the cabling from the instrument console and fog light. I just can't get my head around the fact that if the diagram is right a earth short on one of the sidelights should be showing up on the other as they are linked according to the diagram.
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So here's my logic... Bare with me. Looking at the diagram both front side lights share the same fuse. Both are linked via K5 and V1 to the instrument console and via M1 to the fog lamp switch. The steering column switch is via R7. See photos.
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Yes. Plugs B and C . B is white and C is brown . On the white plug, pin 3 ( green wire 56) and on the brown one , pin 2 ( green55) . Brown is offside, White is nearside. Hope this helps narrow things down a bit Andy
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I'm thinking this might helpe in some way ID which fuse is feeding which loom...
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I've also disconnected the plug at the fusebox that goes to the light switch on the steering wheel column so I know the short isn't in that part of the circuit. Indeed it can't be or both front and rear sidelight fuses would be popping
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So... I have rear side lights . Both are working fine. However when I put the switch the sidelights on a fuse pops . It's the second on the right from the edge. So I have rear lights but no front side lights. It seems they are on different power supplies front and rear. Anyway I tested the power lines to the fronts . One side is earthed on both cables. The other only on the correct earth cable. So clearly a short to earth.my question is does anybody know which plug in the fuse box feeds the driver's side light? I think I'm going to have to replace the cable as it's clearly shorted somewhere
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Mi16 twin Dellorto fueling issues
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Wallby's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
is the Facet having to lift from the tank? It seems like a long lift from the tank to inner wing. If it gets even a small amount of air in a line that long it will take a while to recover. Try modifying the pick up so its still in a complete housing as it will retain a small amount of fuel around the pick up a little bit longer. If you intend to track it a lot I would suggest a swirl pot and a low pressure in tank pump to keep it full. -
Found one that is selling - and I'll update the post when it's sold BUT Reg unknown - will ask seller after it goes PEUGEOT 205 DIESEL STDT 12 MONTHS MOT PEUGEOT 205 DIESEL STDT. Condition used. L reg. 12 months mot. 124,023 miles. Regarded by some as a classic this barn find now needs a home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-DIESEL-STDT-12-MONTHS-MOT/192891364073?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 As of 18/04/2019 it's at £225 at auction.
