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  1. Yesterday
  2. Leslie green

    SAD issues

    Leslie green replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Seems yours is OK electrically and just not closing fully , maybe a new disc and spring will sort it , it's worth a go at 35 quid . There are 3 part numbers can't see there being much difference as one repair kit fits all 3.im not sure what actually goes wrong inside yet maybe it gets gummed up and jams .
  3. bacardincoke

    SAD issues

    bacardincoke replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Meant to say the SAD is Bosch 0 280 140 182 (Peugeot equivalent 0345.37) for the 128hp 1.9 1987 onwards, so correct to the car / engine. It's date marked October 1998, so not all that old (car's done small miles from then to now).
  4. bacardincoke

    SAD issues

    bacardincoke replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Cheers... found this just now, so if correct further supports the SAD seems to be working. Don't want to go off at a tangent, one for another time, but it had crossed my mind before if it would be possible to make up a 205 SAD from say a MK1 Golf one (or vice versa / or any other), using one of those kits plus the still working bits from which ever?
  5. Leslie green

    SAD issues

    Leslie green replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Remaufactured sad valve is 360 with a well known supplier which seems a bit pricey, same as an afm refurb !. I have found you can buy a kit to repair the quadrant but it won't fix a faulty heater .
  6. bacardincoke

    SAD issues

    bacardincoke replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Was going to start a topic of my own, however this recent one leapt out at me and has some elements in common / save repetition. 1989 1.9 - has run perfectly for a number of years, though mileage is minimal these days (about 300 in the past 2 x years). Serviced regardless / turned over regularly etc. Getting it ready for this year and noticed the cold idle now rises to around 1900 rpm (previously it'd be a max of 1450 rpm). It'll remain there for several minutes, then progressively drop down over course of about 5 minutes to a rock steady 950 rpm. Squeezing the inlet / outlet pipes (while still warming up) to the SAD will cause the revs to drop to point of almost stalling. SAD out today. The open 'pie slice' is there at cold (size / shape matches what others seem have on working SADs). 12v through the element on it's own will cause the opening to close, but it can be in excess of 10 minutes (it's the very last tiny glimmer of a hole takes forever to finally shut). Supplement the 12v with heat from a gun and not surprisingly it'll close in much quicker, but hard to quantify as the combination is hard to keep consistent. The last little bit also closes much more quickly when 12v + heat gun. Washed through the SAD with brake cleaner / small amount of plusgas afterwards to re-lubricate the moving window and it's made a difference, though nothing dramatic. At the moment I'm going to tentatively assume the SAD is working correctly, what's stopping me being more confident is I've SAD's from MK1 Golfs on Kjet (called something else in VW circles) and they are confirmed working. They take 2 mins 30 secs to close on 12v only (and consistently). I understand they're completely different things, and there may well be such a wide variation between them, can someone confirm 10 plus minutes for the 205 one is to be expected? When I was looking into this, I notice the pipe from the SAD outlet to the underside of the intake manifold gets 'sucked in' (for about 10cm of its length at the manifold end near the built in kink and not else where), when cold starting... it's like theres a vacuum? It was a new BBM one (4 years old now) Tun the car off and the pipe flexes back out to it's normal shape... when it's 'sucked in' it doesn't appear to influence any thing, air can still pass though presumably at a reduced rate. If I squeeze the 'sucked in' pipe while cold starting the revs will drop to near stalling. If it weren't for the fact the car now out of the blue idles to 1900rpm before dropping to a warm idle, when before it was 1450rpm nothing has changed... runs like a dream as it always has. Did the CO a few days ago and its 1.6. I haven't put the SAD back in yet (issue may be resolved, hopefully) but it's a pig of a job and I didn't want to do it, to then be told there was something else I could have done while it was out! Bit of a ramble, apologies...
  7. Last week
  8. Leslie green

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    Yes all new but they are probably softer than original ones , I didn't get fast road ones as I didn't want a lot of vibration, I did notice though last night the 2 buffers now have a gap at the front one only , I had spaced the rear to close any gap but with them settling the front has maybe a 2mm gap now ,no gap at the back .I have another AFM I might try it but I also want to get this high idle sorted so will block the rear of the sad off next time I get a chance to see if it needs replaced. Its really too annoying to drive now till I get something sorted ,just constant slight jerkiness that shakes your head a little at a steady speed on a smooth road at 50 to 60 mph ,like what a grabbing front caliper would feel like .
  9. welshpug

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    welshpug replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    I guess all engine mounts are new, so its not the engine shunting back and forth, it may be a tired AFM flap spring allowing the flap to bounce at low throttle openings,
  10. petert
    Thanks. Hopefully 2nd half of the year.
  11. Leslie green

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    Went to a car show today and car I thought at first was holding the handbrake on so I pulled in and the rear discs were hot so I backed of the handbrake as there was way more weight in the car than usual , a few miles more and I puled in again and backed it right off as the car was still what seemed like lightly shunting constantly at 60 mph . I noticed since I filled the tank right up and put the spare on as well as putting a few tools in the boot the rear suspension has dropped right down and now even before anybody is in the back the wheel is tucked up in the arch as in the pic. There were 3 of us today and its far too low with passengers in the back and a full tank of fuel now .Before when sitting with half tank and no spare there was at least an inch between the tyre and arch. Are the rear discs usually hot after a drive I thought they did very little ? I thought the low height was pulling the cables but that may be nothing to do with it . The handbrake is backed of completely at the minute and doing nothing but its still the same , the wheel isn't hot so I'm thinking its probably fine. What could be the cause of this light shunting at a steady 60 mph , its not just at 60 mph but its more noticeably there and when pulling uphill , is it likely to be the fuel pump failing ? I was glad to get home today with 110 mile done as I've a feeling it won't be going much longer and its spoiled a nice day out .Maybe its the timing is off a bit I might tr moving that too incase its actually pinking although it seemed to be going fine before when I Was in myself .thinking its only really appeared since I filled up but may be coincidence . Pic of the rear wheel ride height below , its now way too low and needs a more sensible height to carry passengers will possibly go back to standard .
  12. welshpug

    Shunt box

    welshpug replied to Bishbosh77's topic in Misc/General Technical

    that is the yellow wire that should be feeding to the battery positive terminal, without that the car will have no 12v power at all, only the battery starter and alternator will get power
  13. Bishbosh77

    Shunt box

    Bishbosh77 posted a topic in Misc/General Technical

    Hi fuse in shunt overheating then blowing taken it out and only thing that look dubious is a wire missing from the end !!! Can’t find anything to attach it to . See attached picture, anyone know what should go here ?
  14. mmt
    Looks great. Real pro work. when will you be driving the car again?
  15. jord294

    Decent wishbone suppliers

    jord294 replied to Anthony's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    Hit and miss these days. I have 1 qh with kleber bushes. I tried to match up with the opposite side, same brand, and had 2 different castings, with different types of bush and collar. Not tried febi or skf 205 wishbones as of yet.
  16. engine killer

    Decent wishbone suppliers

    engine killer replied to Anthony's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    Hi everyone, Is there anywhere that I can get decent wishbone nowaday? Thanks in advance.
  17. Tom Fenton
    The union at the fuel rail is 14x1.5 male with a taper seat. Not sure what is in that kit.
  18. paul mcgrath
    I'm hoping there should be enough gender benders in this kit to get me in line with the fuel rail due for delivery today
  19. petert
    Work has been slow, but steady. Progress though on the brakes. My son wants to have data on brakes. So it was necessary to add pressure sensors for front & rear circuits. It's getting very busy in that corner and this is what I've come up with. That aluminium block accepts fluid in/out via 4AN flexible lines. Two sensors screw in from the bottom. The hole behind the two master cylinders is where the harness will pass for the brakes, fuel pressure and flex sensor.
  20. paul mcgrath
    HI Tom, I have just ordered a fuel pressure testing kit with a bazillion attachments - i was hoping to dab onto just before the fuel rail so as not to disturb the pipes on the pump! I may take you up on that offer though, i aint a bazillion miles away from you in Oldham
  21. Tom Fenton
    I have a pressure gauge setup that uses a modified banjo bolt that you fit into the top of the fuel filter, to avoid having to cut anything. I'd be willing to lend it out with a cash deposit to ensure I get it back.
  22. Earlier
  23. welshpug
    get the pressure gauge in the line on top of the tank, all the ones in the engine bay on the feed side are plastic with a rubber coating, not so easy to fit a gauge into
  24. paul mcgrath
    Looks like we are trying the fuel pressure next. Got spark, replaced ECU temp sensor last night, runs up to temperature and then bogs down on accellerator. Can hear fuel pump priming but whether its priming to the correct pressure and volume i dont know. Spark.mp4
  25. Robbiedundy

    Turning a 205 1.9 into a Tolman Edition

    Robbiedundy replied to Big_Wak's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    Really nice, any more pictures?
  26. 1905 adam

    Rev counter reading high!

    1905 adam replied to 1905 adam's topic in Misc/General Technical

    Ok thanks.
  27. Thijs_Rallye

    Rev counter reading high!

    Thijs_Rallye replied to 1905 adam's topic in Misc/General Technical

    As SRDT says. PCB of the revcounter. The revcounter is pretty easy to disassemble from the cluster.
  28. paul mcgrath
    Thats good then thanks for the clarification. ECU temp sensor just arrived so will try changing that tonight and see what happens.
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