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It looks like styrofoam because that's how you make the mold with the lost foam process, there is little to no machining needed after but on the other hand they probably can't use crappy pot metal. Speaking of pot metal not all XU water outlets welds nicely.
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I turn up a bung and TIG it. That weird looking aluminium welds really nicely.
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Pushed it backwards down the country lane to a place it wasnt blocking the road when it suddenly died without warning. Catastrophic ignition amp failure. Luckily I carry a spare. Use it every day and the old bus always gets me home.
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Philip changed their profile photo
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Hi Tom, Sorry. Jan out so no car . Sob .Will be at Pugfest though ! Andy
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Neat job Andy. Are you coming to Hope show later?
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Water outlet on the rear of the block. It has an extra outlet on the iron block engine. I know that a short piece of rubber hose, two clips and an old bolt would have done the trick, but one core plug ,hacksaw, file and a little core plug sealant later .........
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Spot on - thanks for the info. I'll refit without them and see how I get on. Cheers, Rob
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Fitting 306 front B4’s - ARB tabs an issue??
acox99 replied to Atreides's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
It’s a threaded female to male spacer. I had a machine shop where I work so they knocked it up. From memory I cut the thread down on the drop link to allow it to thread all the way into the spacer. -
Thanks Damian
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Wow!! You learn something new everyday. -A-
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I have just rebuilt my car post full paint job. I found these clips new very difficult to fit over new rivets- to the point they where marking the new paint. Ive left them off. So far no issues , nothing fallen off , no rattles.
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If it helps, you don't actually need them. They are only anti rattle clips.
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cheers.
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2.1 Madness!! changed their profile photo
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Fitting 306 front B4’s - ARB tabs an issue??
Porter87 replied to Atreides's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
How did you bolt these up? Did you need a longer thread to pass through the spacer? Thanks -
Sounds awesome.
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have you managed to find yourself a 1FM mate?
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I've never looked at how a 1FM is wired but I imagine they use a switched jack socket, that's a socket with a switch built into it that is activated by plugging something into it. E.G. https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/1-4-inch-stereo-switched-jack-socket-gold-plated.html or https://www.gapco.co.uk/Mono-Sleeve-Switched-Jack-Socket.html
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Heater Matrix replacement
dcc replied to AlexRS2782's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Don't fit cheap ones, they never line up properly and the heater matrix heatsink fins are further apart, resulting is colder heaters. Valeo were £30ish iirc -
Sounds like a jolly sensible approach - 1st objective should always be to aim to leave the venue with the car the same shape it arrived.
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I take a set of slicks and a set of semis to track days. If it’s really pissing it down to the point that the semi slicks are struggling I find the best approach is to hole up in the cafe drinking coffee while all the heroes crash and cause red flags.
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jac_the_ripparh joined the community
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How are the rear speakers wired in the back of a 1FM as I know that when the acoustic shelf is in the speakers in the C pillars are isolated, and when the shelf is removed, via a jack plug I imagine the C pillar ones work. I would like to replicate this but unsure how to go about it or is there a magic box that does it?
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Dwell is the ignition coil charge time but if you don't even have a chipped ecu it must be something else.
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Heater Matrix replacement
Duroc replied to AlexRS2782's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Been about 10 years since I did one. Fitted a Valeo. It came with the pipes, which I used. -
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Heater Matrix replacement
AlexRS2782 posted a topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
As per the thread title, just wondering what the current recommendation is from owners on here for a quality replacement / best place to purchase. Had a look around and it seems there's a number on the market made by different brands (obviously with varying prices) with some being just the matrix itself to others that seem to be a full kit including pipes, etc. A couple of older threads on here seem to suggest trying to reuse the o.e hard pipes if they're in decent order / undamaged - is this still the case or would it be a case of a decent matrix including the pipes, seals, etc, should be a fit & not worry job? Cheers -
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