Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Sounds like something loose/rattling to me, heat shield maybe Try a spanner check for anything loose.
  3. I'll probably go for the Lemforder ones, at least once I.ve checked the play is in the ball joint ... and from comment here re Motaquip, it probably is. Yes, agree nice to have such items in top condition. Regarding the headlamp settings, it's only now it's failed that I've realised that they (in France) are testing the dipped beam setting .... whereas I thought the UK MoT tested main beam. I set these for main beam when fitting LHD headlights, so now I'm going to have to play around setting for correct dipped beam. Found some instruction on line, will be interesting to see if the variance I find comes close to the test results.
  4. Today
  5. Today i tested the maps, it has never run that well, the idle is perfect, i've got my setting for req fuel so my AFR is stable at 13.0 which is my target AFR, with the VE @35 I have not tested the cold start yet with the cold advance but will do that tomorrow. The only problem is when the steering pump is at full load, sometime the engine stall. I think i don't get the most out of the idle advance map, im idling at 10 and the engine is the happiest at 20,more it doesn't go up in rpm anymore, so it gave me a narrow workspace for idling up. Next, i got my timing light wired, but not sure of the result. I get a little white mark on the flywheel when i set 20 degree fixed timing, I will attach a picture of it : My neighbour came to help me, he said it was not the mark i should see, don't know if he know the thing..
  6. Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone can advise on what this noise(s) could be? I'm hoping it's not something serious The engine is a Skip Brown 1.6-.19 conversion on a fast road cam, dual dellorto 45 carbs so I don't expect it to purr, but this knocking/tapping sounds bizzare. With it being the OHC type, i'm unsure how you go about adjusting the valves on these, is it just replacement shims? TIA vlc-record-2022-01-23-15h40m24s-VID_20211209_135110.mp4-.mp4
  7. It's just a dollars thing. At the end of the day, if both are prepared correctly, they'll flow the same. The RS head has a couple of advantages over the Mi16 head, in that it has double springs and already has a cam sensor fitted. I don't know what your application is and thus double springs may not be necessary for the Mi16 head. It will take a lot more lift before double springs are necessary. Having the cam sensor is a plus, as you can run sequential fuel injection. However, you can also upgrade an XU9J4 head to the same by fitting a thermostat housing from an XU10J4. If using the XU9J4 head, you'll need to buy an XUD9 head bolt to use over the water pump. The other nine bolts can be XU10J4/R/RS. Exhaust manifolds from both will require some form of modification to avoid hitting the firewall.
  8. Yesterday
  9. personally I'd go gti6, get the valve seats 3 angle cut, that will also clean up the throat into the ports.
  10. I do recall one of the pug tuners did a retainer for the seal.
  11. Tom Fenton

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    My brake hoses fit, 1.9 handbrake cables with a washer added fit! Inner arch required a bit cutting out for clearance But otherwise so far so good with the C4 rear caliper conversion.
  12. Henry had a problem with this, he thought it was down to pattern seals being slightly down on outside diameter. What you could do is either glue it in with loctite bearing fit, or heavily centre punch round the external face to nip the housing diameter in slightly.
  13. Both XU9J4/10J4 and RS head designs are good.
  14. Hi so as titled I have an xu10j4rs block that’s been machined and now running the k24 pistons gti-6 forged rods and dw12 crank and just after a bit of info on the options for heads I have an mi16 head that’s been ported sitting that I thought about fitting to it but I also have the standard gti-6 head but it would require work as a couple of the valve heads have broken so just looking to see what peoples opinions are. Thanks
  15. As above , incorrect installation , or wrong size seal , or excessive crankcase pressure . Socket which is about the dimension of outer end dia/size of the seal is handy for drifting the seal in the housing , smaller dia. seals are easy to fit , with bigger ones need to be more careful to install it in center within the housing . D
  16. damaged seal ? or damaged seal seat or incorrect installation of the seal maybe ? not sure what's preventing a good seal but "popping out" doesn't sound right you could try tapping around it gently to see if you can get a nice even fit but I think I'd be removing it the seal may be in good condition and not the cause of the problem but removing it for inspection is likely to damage it so have a new one ready (this is annoying I know as you've already just spent money on the first one) if you have to damage the seal to get it out that's ok, but dont get frustrated and damage the seal seat once its out have a proper inspection of the seal seat to make sure its clean and sound lubricate both the seat and the OD and ID of the seal if you have a good fitting drift that puts pressure on the outer ring of the seal only use that to tap it all the way home all round I've also used an old seal with a piece of wood across it sometimes a small piece of some nice soft flat wood can also work but just do a bit at a time if they go in right, those cam, crank and driveshaft type seals are all pretty reliable so give it another go
  17. Last week
  18. Finally , found 115Hp 1.6 B6D cam (actually found a few from 1.6 rebuild threads , all with this the same single paint mark) :
  19. Hi, I have a 205 CTI-90 1,9 XU9J1 engine (105HP). After changing the cam sealing I have a oil leak and the seal is slightly popping out. What could I do to prevent this ? Reason for the problem ? Thanks for any advice
  20. True ! nowadays you can't know who deals with who as far as aftermarket parts goes ... one brand name on the box yet different brand part inside the box ! TRW wishbones i got on a two occasions when buying directly at Peugeot here locally and at Peugeot in Italy . Quality wise now and then , that's good question .. but me thinks long lasting known good aftermarket brands wont go to the route of decreased quality parts , possibly though few slightly different quality grades of the same part . D
  21. pug_ham

    Trim clip part numbers? help please?

    They are on ebay UK for around £25; Selection Of Approximately 49 Fixings Clips Rivets, Washers etc To Attach The Wheel Arches, Door Mouldings & Red Finishing Strips Some Items Are Now No Longer Available Individually Suitable For Peugeot 205 Models Including GTi CTi Griffe Gentry They've removed the kit part number & I couldn't find it in a quick search on the parts catalog but if you search for 'Peugeot 205 GTI CTI Wheel Arch / Trim Fixing Kit ' you should find a couple of options. g
  22. I have opened factory unbranded 309 arms to find TRW markings inside, I also had 309 PTS wishbones with TRW markings outside. Is the quality still the same today? that I don't know.
  23. Lemforder is really good yes , but others aren't bad either like : TRW , Delphi , Sasic , even the cheap Turkish Teknorot is pretty good for the price you pay . I've an pair of Delphi wishbones on my daily 205 , can't remember for how long but it's certainly been a while since i bought them +10 years for sure still no problem with the balljoints .. Also , we have here an old guy who refurbishes the balljoints on suspension parts (arms/wishbones mainly) .. makes really good job , better/stronger and more durable than factory made item . Since you're based in France , have a look for Sasic arms/wishbones .. often you'll find OE parts in Sasic package ... at least the last pair of wishbones which i've bought from Sasic where like the OE item with Kleber bushes . If you drive a lot , go for Lemforder or TRW ... if not pick something like : Sasic , Delphi , Teknorot . Well , any play or worn parts in the steering , suspension , braking system is worth failing MOT no question about it and no arguing either those need to be fixed and in good working order . Lighting MOT measuring equipment tends to be vary in accuracy from one to another MOT station ... depends . Possibly you're MOT tester passed a few cars for some "colored papers" thus he needed to fail a few afterwards !! I knew a man who worked around 30 years at the MOT stations , there's all sorts of tricks to make one pass and fail of course ... like emission testing equipment , pressing one button at right time during the testing procedure (or arranging the measuring probe at certain position in the exhaust) will make it pass results , which if done regularly would be instant fail . But overall , MOT's are getting more strict every few years things changing .. at least over here , as our MOT stations mainly take and follow Germain regulations as an reference . D
  24. Early 2.0 HDI, also 605 2.1/2.5 diesel with electronic pump but this one is bigger and need a bracket for the cable.
  25. 28hodge

    205GTI rally car barn find

    Solved the above, turned out the snorkel on the car wasn't a gti snorkel that's made of hard plastic, but a base model snorkel that was made out of very soft plastic that collapsed and starved the engine of air at higher RPM. Snorkel removed and will rev right through to 6k rpm. I have also whipped the hubs off and took them plus the new bearings to a guy with a press and had them fitted, £20 and a couple hours later all fit back up and thankfully the annoying rumble that was just noticeable has disappeared, I was starting to think it was a gearbox or diff bearing as when jacked up the wheel bearing seemed quiet and good and was never picked up on the mot. Good job too as we have a 12 car on the 27th, going with my brother who hasn't done any rally nav before so we will see how we get on, anything beyond a finish I'll take as a result.
  26. That could be an interesting approach - what model was that?
  27. Thanks Damir, .... just need it to get a little warmer before I investigate! Seems I might be able to buy a Lemforder replacement if necessary, which hopefully will last longer. In fact I'll probably buy a pair, as it seems I can expect the OS one to fail next CT! Yes indeed, that's why I don't like to be pushy in such circumstances; also, there's the risk of annoying and getting failed. Talking of which, have you noticed one's car never fails on just one item? I'm convinced this is because, if they did fail on one issue, the customer is likely to argue the point. If they fail on more than one item, it's much harder to argue. So ... this time, the second failure point was my dipped beam settings. The form helpfully details the misalignment, as a percentage. Having kept all the old forms, the settings have changed markedly over the years .... yet I have never touched the adjustment since fitting LHD headlights in 2010! Hmmm. Do they change continuously all by themselves, or could it be their alignment gauges aren't particularly accurate/different users read the gauges differently?!
  1. Load more activity
×