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Another google find
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Just the answer I was after thanks.
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Hell all,back again.i fitted my sunroof frame after refurbishing it and changed the rotten screw type fittings for the later rivet fittings,where the rails connect at the front the rails arn,t flush with the roof due to the rivets touching the plastic in the top,I've heard there's a difference in the covers if so are the riveted covers slightly taller,inside,thanks for any knowledge on this .
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Also spied this when I was trying to work out how the roof lining removed! Rusty drain hole on the sun roof! What can ppl advise for a fix solution? refurb?
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It was getting late last night when I got onto removing the headlining, removed the roof handles, sun visors, but then got stumped on how the centre centre light cowl came away! I called it a night and stopped at this point. Can anyone help me out with how you remove it? Dose the head lining then just pull away?
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- Yesterday
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Paulfraiser changed their profile photo
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XU9J4 rebuild, crankshaft id?
Lonzo replied to Lonzo's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I will, thanks Looks like I'll need a few more bit and pieces, I'm making a list. -
XU9J4 rebuild, crankshaft id?
Lonzo replied to Lonzo's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
If you have the outside cover for sale, that would be great. I need all the plastic bits. -
Saeed joined the community
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Fixing clips & bolts bumpers and trims?
pugfrank replied to pugfrank's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
Thank you -
Great thanks for this, just the job
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- Last week
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L T joined the community
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solid tappet / lifter conversion
petert replied to welshpug's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
This is what I meant. It's light, simple and standard practice. -
solid tappet / lifter conversion
SweetBadger replied to welshpug's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Another thought - Autosprint do or did a solid MI16 regrind with lifter convertors. Reasonably priced too (2008 prices listed on their website). Might be worth giving them a call to find out whether they still supply the solid lifter conversion kit. http://www.autosprint.co.uk/?p=p_23 -
Alexandre_barbosa changed their profile photo
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solid tappet / lifter conversion
Thijs_Rallye replied to welshpug's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
To be honest is I had to do this myself I would probably use converted hydraulic lifters with the dbilas/schrick lash caps which I posted above and convert the top spring bucket to accept a Yamaha motorbike shim for making it myself easier to maintain. Then you can have the lash caps made to identical lengths and use the shim for setting the actual clearance. But that will take quite a bit of measuring and calculating. The diameter of those shims are 9,48mm. Only thing I would have to verify first is maximum needed diameter for installing the collets, since you don't want to have the shim dance around in the seat. Edit: that grub screw construction gives me the shivers. -
1.4 TU offside driveshaft stuck
welshpug replied to C0rnflakes's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
xu is identical in arrangement, just different parts, the bearing itself is the same. -
1.4 TU offside driveshaft stuck
Gohn replied to C0rnflakes's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
cornflakes - mines XU but should be same principle and general set up - - if you can, remove the two hockey stick bolts from the intermediate mount first that way you're sure they're not hanging it up and preventing removal of the driveshaft - then WD40 around the intermediate bearing (might not do much but cant hurt) - if you've still got the intermediate bearing bracket bolts loose, tighten them up. the bracket must be secure to the block so when you clunk the driveshaft it shocks the bearing free of the bracket - when I blew up your pic it shows you or a previous owner has already drifted onto the bearing retaining ring. its the ring around the driveshaft, in between the two bolt ends of the hockey stick shaped retaining bolts. looks like someone has already used a chisel end as a drift. thats the spot you wanna set your drift ready for the clobber. anywhere around that ring from the side you've taken the pic - take extra time to get as good a drift as you can, good hammer, and some manouvering room for the hit and welly. get a drift that wont slip off and is solid so all the energy goes into the ring/driveshaft to shock it loose - you are drifting from centre of car to the outside -
Mei you are behind the times a little !! Those kits are near £41 each now RRP Hardly a huge markup times you minus fees
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I would worry more about finding genuine Peugeot wings be they gti or non gti than anything else. The aftermarket ones don’t usually fit well at all.
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Nigel Graham joined the community
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pattison joined the community
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Thanks Tom. I’ll be looking for second hand gti ones
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You need to cut the arch back and drill the holes for the bodykit. Put the non-gti next to the gti wing and its obvious what you need to do.
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Hi all, anyone know what’s the difference between Gti front wings/guards an non gti wings other than the holes in the gti ones for fastening the extentions. I’m able to buy non-gti ones would they fit my gti? thanks.
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This has now turned into a full restoration project
series111 replied to series111's topic in Projects & Works Starters
It's been a long time coming, the underside is finally in colour!!! -
no, the red (or chrome in other models) trims need to be carefully lifted up/out at each end. under these is the bolt end that slots into the bumper. the other end of this inside the wheel arch is a nut undo nut take out bolt to each side, also two to front of bumper, take out headlights or grill panels to access nuts in behind they are the 4 main fixing bolts all under the trim strip the trim removal tool mei recommends is good but you can use a flathead just be careful and gentle you shouldn't need to do any grinding, even with the corrosion problems there and if you're careful getting it off all the plastic bits will be ok to reuse
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had silicone hoses on my 205 for 17 years
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in case service box stuffs up on you (which is a common complaint) for part numbers use this instead, its much easier anyway : https://catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot/?lang=en and telf were your hoses the rubber or silicone sets they sell? I've seen the silicone sets and they look nice, but do they just look nice or actually last better ?
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Agronbech changed their profile photo
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solid tappet / lifter conversion
petert replied to welshpug's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I wouldn't use them. Too much risk. Plus they look heavy. The owner will own you if they go bang. By shimless, I thought you meant starting with longer valves and reducing the length to obtain the clearance. As you can imagine, it's not for the faint hearted. Peugeot Mi16 Solid Lifter CF147.pdf -
Amirouw joined the community
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1.4 TU offside driveshaft stuck
C0rnflakes replied to C0rnflakes's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hello, thank you for the reply! I totally agree, I usually use a lump hammer for things that need a bit more persuasion! I'll attach a photo, could you perhaps mark where to put the drift, as the gap is very small and I want to make sure I've got it right before hitting it hard! Thank you again, I appreciate it!
