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  1. Yesterday
  2. SweetBadger

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    SweetBadger replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    Took mine out on its 1st track outing last week after some improvements over the winter - bridgecraft roll centre correction kit, hydraulic clutch conversion. arrived at Snetterton misfiring due to suspected fuel starvation… After pissing about under the car all morning changing fuel pumps, it still wasn’t right, finally discovered a blocked fuel filter! With that removed, ran the rest of the day without a hitch! Front end even more pointy with the roll centre kit now that the wishbones aren’t pointing upward. Highly recommended upgrade if your car is significantly lowered.
  3. Last week
  4. SRDT

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    SRDT replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    I can never understand why every single 205 door card has the window winder hole cut by default, even the most luxurious trims that had electric windows as standard. They had no problem leaving the cloth intact on the 309 but somehow no 205 was good enough for that aside from the turbo 16.
  5. Leslie green

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    I removed the plastic of the back of the doorcard and wet the card and then clamped it between 2 pieces of wood for a few days , leaving it on its end so the water could drain out , this seems to have worked ok and the bad warping is gone .I fitted the doorcard after putting new plastic on and removing the lock again as the retainer behind is too tight and was pulling in the doorskin around it , a little filing on the sides of the lock and its much better now. I couldn't get the speaker cover to latch , had same bother with passenger side on to the clips so used black rear arch clips and body grommets instead as these are longer , I put some butyl behind the clips so it didn't push back and used the arch rubber washers to hold the clip on as well.I think the replacement speakers edges are not allowing the clips to sit in enough . Now its fitted I can see the window winder hole is bigger on the drivers side for some reason , I thought they should be the same , these cards were bought as mine had turned brown instead of black , I need to get them found to see if they are the same and hopefully find a winder blank or 2 still on them . Larger screws 5.5 x 19mm instead of the original 4.8 x 19mm have held the door bins on better , all but 1 is holding fine , they had bigger screws fitted before I got them as the doors are replacements and the holes were wider already.. I was going to fit rivnuts but the M4 screws I got the heads are very small and would need washers to not pull though the doorbins ,plus don't want swarf from drilling rusting inside the door Of course the tabs fell on one switch when I tried to refit it , not bad considering I've caught them in the door at least a dozen times before tying it up out the way.
  6. Telf
    In the end I took the heat shields off, top engine mount and just made enough room. Now to decide what to buy for the rest of the system.
  7. samarone samarone changed their profile photo
  8. pugdamo
    Thankyou, it's sort of what I expected, I know nothing about the diff type other than it's a VAL racing one. Looks like it's gearbox out time again. When I get time to do it I'll report back.
  9. Tom Fenton

    [Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

    Tom Fenton replied to Telf's topic in Body, Misc & Non-Car Work

    Personally I would just drop the subframe to fit that. Doesn't take all that much doing to drop it, bottom arms, track rod ends, drop links, gear linkage, steering column lower coupling, the clip on the clutch cable.
  10. Tom Fenton
    Hard to really judge. If it is a plate diff then yes they do click and jump a bit on lock on dry tarmac, on gravel you see the wheels skip a bit as there isn't the grip. I've a plate diff in my road rally car and to the uninitiated it makes a horrendous noise manoeuvering at low speed. If there is no metal debris coming out when you drain the oil then perhaps its working as it should. That said, if its never done that before, and then suddenly has started doing it, after a big junction launch, then its more likely something is broken.
  11. ATK
  12. ATK
    Tucked up in the garage after almost daily use since August last year. Not huge mileage as my commute is short but it’s an easy car to park on the school run, even if it means it’s picked up some (more) car park dings and also some idiot in an SUV scraped the front bumper - and left an garbled unreadbale note with a fake number! Never mind - been enjoying using it which is the whole point! Performed really well rain or shine and jjst about to hit 192k miles. Still leaking a bit of rainwater underneath rear windows and in passenger footwell, but better than it was! Changed gearbox oil this weekend and the Lanoguard protection I applied underneath has done a great job protecting it over winter etc. Had the old girl just over 11 years now…!
  13. pugdamo
    These are the videos, I appreciate they are a bit crap but the one going backwards I can feel it bind up, then my mate chucked the phone in and I went back a bit more and it cracked off, it will do this forwards or backwards and the other video shows the wheels skipping, when there's no gravel on the road it will bind to a stop and then crack off, the oil sample looks clean but this box was probably fitted 12-18 months ago and obviously had fresh oil, driving this car before you wouldn't really know it has a limited slip, for me the diff has locked but I have never diagnosed a failed LSD and don't want to pull the box and strip for no reason. And yes my cousin is a he lol. VID-20250330-WA0011.mp4 VID-20250330-WA0008.mp4
  14. ArthurH
    Just for the benefit of anyone else reading this, I can confirm the leftmost in my picture (the shortest) is the temp gauge, the rightmost is the temp warning light, and the blue one is the temp sensor for the ECU.
  15. welshpug
    Support the engine and remove the top arm, swinging the bottom around wont achieve much.
  16. SRDT
    Disconnect the lower engine mount ant try to tilt the engine a bit.
  17. Gohn
    easy for me to say, but go back return it get a refund - get another OE exhaust manifold trying to jam in that staino one will be terrible, and stainless cracks and sounds s*it anyway your custom exhaust quote sounds barely believable my local did mine for $145 (£75!) versus £750 there were two sections they bent, welded and fitted. great job that was before inflation went mental but still 10X the price !! keep on
  18. ArthurH
    Thanks Peter, all good suggestions - We did manage to get the nut off today having removed all the staking, but have run out of time to fix it. I will try Loctite first, but I'm thinking I could drill and tap it on the join, perhaps M6, so the bolt will become a key. We do remove the drum very regularly; the self-adjuster probably stopped working decades ago.
  19. petert
    Obviously to repair it you still need to remove the axle. Three things come to mind: 1. Drill & tap M12, for a socket headed cap screw, weld around the outside. 2. Drill & tap LH M12 for a left handed a socket headed cap screw. 3. Weld a cheap 1/2" drive socket to the end.
  20. petert
    If it has been modified by Bridgecraft to increase the camber, then it has no splines. As I explained earlier, they re-bore the hole to a larger diameter, then fit one of their axles. Thus why there is no allen key hole. They obviously got the interference fit wrong. I can see two solutions: 1. remove axle, apply Loctite 620 and hope that it holds, if not, 2. turn up a slightly larger axle. It only needs to be 0.002" bigger in OD, I'd suggest.
  21. Telf
    I'd rather chew my feet off than spend 700 quid tbh
  22. Leslie green
    If its rotating there can't be any splines ,an impact gun should still take it off ,if not you will have to try and weaken the nut and then split it will a chisel if there is room.
  23. Leslie green

    [Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

    Leslie green replied to Telf's topic in Body, Misc & Non-Car Work

    Paul you can get a milltek stainless exhaust for around 700 quid .
  24. Telf
    Chaps, A problem I did not think about, how to fit this part! It's fouling on everything and no way I can wiggle it in. My I initial thought is remove the gear linkages and heat shield and try again, if still no luck then remove the top engine mount and pull the engine forward. Before I head down this path, anybody who's fitted one of these can you comment ?
  25. Toddy
    The standard stub axles have an Allen key hole on the rear to help with fitment, your stub axle fitted doesn't have the Allen key hole.
  26. Telf
    Thoughts on aftermarket exhausts please. I've got a stainless 4 branch ready to fit, on inspection the rest of the exhaust is in good condition. My local custom exhaust place quoted me £750 to replace the mid and rear portions which seems mental to me ,or just for a straight pipe and rear box 550!
  27. ArthurH

    Brake Pipe Unions

    ArthurH replied to ArthurH's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    As an aside, this is an almost brand new master cylinder, spoilt by condensation over the winter
  28. ArthurH

    Brake Pipe Unions

    ArthurH replied to ArthurH's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    I did decide to go the 'whole hog' and dispense with all the rigid pipes. I am rather pleased with the result. I think it looks smarter and we have eliminated 6 'junctions'. However, my concern was sponginess, but following a test day at Bedford Autodrome earlier this week, my son is very pleased with the pedal feel, if anything, better than it was.
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