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carlsoundwave changed their profile photo
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D6B head upgrades before fitting on DFZ
petert replied to HoRSiCZeK's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Bigger valves are great if they're done correctly. However that means careful work below the new seat, in order to match up to the port correctly. Just installing bigger valves by themselves is not money well spent. Do some research first and find a reputable company that will guarantee improved flow over all lifts. Skimming the head will definitely improve hp and torque everywhere. You can skim up to 2mm off an 8V head but you need to know if it's virginal. Certainly a 1mm skim will get you over 10:1 on a standard D6B and make the standard engine come alive. Keep in mind that skimming the head will also retard the cam timing. Thus performance gained by skimming is often lost by incorrect cam timing. On an 8V, a 1mm skim will require the cam advancing approx. 4º. This can be achieved by a vernier pulley or offsetting the pin in the cam pulley. Also keep in mind that fitting a D6B head on DFZ pistons will give you well over 10.5:1 to begin with. Thus you really only need a small skim to clean it up, unless you want the CR over 11:1. A big skim on the head will also require the bottom hole of the engine mount to be elongated. -
Carbs to Fuel Injection Conversion
welshpug replied to Pug205xs's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
1) speedo is mechanical cable, if the dash has been apart it may not have been clipped in properly at either end. 2) as the emerald uses a wasted spark coil you need a converter to pick up both ignition pulses to drive the rev counter. 3) Peugeot museum do them 4) how much was removed? 5) get a stepped backplate and a sausage filter from ITG, JC50 is the backplate from memory. -
I contacted the previous owner and he said he had a version that DVLA sent back to him (long time because of CV19) and that might do the trick here, I had only a color copy of it and they rejected it because they wanted the original. I won't mention that the 'proof of ownership' thing ;-) Thanks
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smithest78 changed their profile photo
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When I sold a car to hilgi it was a nightmare for him to register because of the DVLA, and their lack of information, but he got there in the end. To throw a spanner in the works, a V5C isn't proof of ownership
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Ryan richardson changed their profile photo
- Yesterday
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Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'm thinking might not be a bad idea to replace the synchro rings to help prevent more wear in the future.
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If you do swap the 5th keep them together. Exchange them both. Never split up gears that have been together for years.
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Seen much worse than those .. that's just usual "wear mark" for the box/gear age , no doubt that'll still work problem free many miles . Trying by hand , if you can "lock" the synchro rings on the cones of the gears then keep them , as long as they're able to "lock on the gear" and the teeth aren't excessively chewed up it'll shift up/down fine .. I have an box full of MA gear sets , synchros , shafts , diffs etc. leftovers from previous rebuilds .. if you where over here closer i could've help you with some spare parts . D
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Yes Tom i was thinking its not worth the bother of sharpening my hammers.
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foyal joined the community
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Carbs to Fuel Injection Conversion
Pug205xs replied to Pug205xs's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hi all - been a while since I posted on this thread - update being that the car has now passed the very strict HK government test and is now re-registered after nearly 3 years off the road. A whole host of things had been incorrectly done by the mob I bought it off (a well established classics dealer who have exotica like a 25th anniversary Countach, Tommy Kaira, 50's Corvette and so on). As well as quite a bit of work on suspension, the main issue with the tuning was 1) incorrect cable being used for the laptop to talk to the Emerald, 2) the Emerald had actually been wired in to the car incorrectly and 3), the cat they'd bolted on was at the rear of the exhaust near the back box, as opposed to the near the front as close to the engine as possible. Following many hours of tuning, the car passed first time! The ex owner has also told me it also has a piper cam fitted and a larger aftermarket radiator. Now there are many cosmetic items to sort: 1) speedo and rev counter don't work (everything else does) 2) centre console is very lose and basically held on with tape 3) Has a Nardi gearknob which i want to replace with standard 4) air con was removed by previous owner - i want to reinstate so i can use in the HK summer 5) socks for the trumpets Thanks all for your pointers above - will be posting further pics as the old girl takes shape. This makes it apparently 4 GTis here on the road! -
Anyone got an opinion on this? Looks pretty bad to me, it's the 5th gear synchros and worst of the lot, although the synchro ring looks the least worn :/ Rings I can replace gears probably not. Is it worth even replacing the rings when the gear synchros are so worn?
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Yep just trying to keep the car standard tbh. I've got solid beam mounts and grp N engine mounts and I don't like either very much!
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I've made my own before, but for £13 the set it doesn't seem worth setting about a bit of stainless with the gardening tools.
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OIL CHAIN PART NUMBER
Leslie green replied to idoari's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
You won't know till you look as blocks get changed and early engines used a smaller crank sprocket from what I remember so would need the shorter chain. I suspect they might have been the 105 hp engines but could be wrong -
Lovely car and your garage refit looks awesome love the flooring good work
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D6B head upgrades before fitting on DFZ
HoRSiCZeK posted a topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hi again guys, since I luckily got a D6B engine, I have please some questions above suggestions which work on head to do and which not? Car is for road use, we plan to fit D6B cam for sure to do is: new valve guides, chemical cleaning, 3 angle seat job Q: 1. larger inlet/exhaust valves - is it worth to buy these and make seats for larger valves (1mm)? or is this only for wild cam racing engines and no use on road car? (Will engine loose some bottom end power by these bigger valves?) 2. skimming yes not? if yes how much? thx for answers! -
Yannis changed their profile photo
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Well for an xs converting to BE might be bridge too far. You need to swap driveshafts, BE gear shifting stuff. tu-be on engine driveshaft bearing, clutch cable probably, BE under battery mount. And off course the box like 20DM12 which is nice for a racer, but IMO too short for a daily driver. I've put a 3,8 final drive in mine, and still burning rubber in 1st. Ma should be fine. I've had a 307 1.6 110 with ma too. No problems ever. I'm quite sure 307 ma's must have some stronger internals as well. And not too long final drives either because they run 17 inch. And they are 1168 kg for a hatch. Might be easy to fine a 307 ma, cheap, cause they are plenty, and dull as duck.
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Damn that's harsh haha! Thanks for the tips. Yeah I've heard it said before that they are not very robust. Mines only got 84hp on a good day so hopefully it can handle it. It's an xs and has close ratio gears, think they match up quite well with the engine. When I first got the car I got the drive shaft changed at a local garage and it was a bit notchy after that so I think they use the wrong oil, only time I've ever had any work done at a garage, this is why! I've ordered new diff gears from eBay so I hope they are decent quality. Synchros I still need to find, getting very expensive to rebuild. The big bearing was 60 quid on its own, I would have re used it as it was totally smooth but I had already hammered the shaft out thinking I had the right one in my bearing kit. Was still tempted to re use it as it still feels fine but I did have to give it a few good wacks to get it off.
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Byrlol changed their profile photo
- Last week
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Differential whine is really common on MA's , you'll often find worn/pitted/cracked planetary gears and cage , synchro rings wear out and wont grip the gears anymore , gear teeth cracking ... etc. , lots of "sad words" about them written in the past if you search a bit . It's really poorly made gearbox ... with s* quality parts metallurgy , and it simply can't stand too much Hp/Nm in fact in the 106 GTi it's already on the limit . Gear ratios are also , kinda crap if you ask me .. Diesel MA variants might be a little bit better ... as often diesel boxes have additionally heat treated (D) and heat treated + shoot peened (TD) internals . Bearings themselves shouldn't be such an issue as long as the oil is as specified (75W-80) , at the right level/amount and serviced/changed regularly .. synchros particularly dislike other oils but Total BV 75W-80 .. If you need experts advice/help , or parts , contact/pm -> Miles D
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Where to get driving light reflectors?
farmer replied to Canadian dave's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
Got quite a few new old stock sets if that interests you ? -
Jufe changed their profile photo
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Idle control question
petert replied to ob2s's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
There is an air bleed screw in the throttle body. Try adjusting that.- 1 reply
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I've used the ones in the second link and they are fine
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Wel. I did al lot of them but that was because had turbo’d my 106. 300 Nm is too much for an ma. I did always replace the primary small bearings for a roller instead of ball. Can handle 10 times axial load, just a bit more noise. But that’s mostly not the problem on gti-ish cars. And I welded the diff’s. (Crownwheel) But with my current 205 I didn’t even look at ma. Although I have only 180 Nm / 150 bhp ish, went for be4r.
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My 1.9 idled ok @ a nice 1000rpm, but my mechanic said there was a connectivity issue with one of the plug wires. Since shipping is so much to the US, I bought new wires, new NGKs BCPR7ES mentioned in Haynes and gapped as recommended to 8mm, a new coil, and a new rotor cap. I also bought a new distributor, but it won't start the car, despite many different things I tried, but that is something to work on later. Anyway, with all the above, the car now starts and runs better, in fact very well, but the idle is now 1500. I know I can't adjust something easily to get back 1000 rpm, so what would you recommend I try ? Thanks
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That sounds like a right pain, at least you figured out what it was! My gearbox has been out for a week already and I haven't even started putting it back together. Hopefully this thread may help some in future. What where the common causes for failure? Mine has 107k miles gear change was a bit sloppy and differential was a bit whiney. Sloppy gear change probably just the roll pin on the lever outside the gearbox although I'm yet to see if a new pin will take up the slack fully. And diff whine well the diff gears where a bit chewed up! Also the synchro rings look worn, not had trouble changing gears but worth replacing I think, i was pretty hard on the gearbox. I should probably have just left the whole gear cluster alone would have saved me a load of headache! But hopefully it will be worth doing it properly, getting all the old oil out is quite satisfying anyway lol.
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Where to get driving light reflectors?
Telf replied to Canadian dave's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
i fitted Denji reflectors. Then the SIEM glass broke .. So now they are Dneji mounted on the original plastic mounts
