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Thats great thanks no wonder I couldn't see it lol , my cable is coming from radio area so needs rerouting as will not reach that far up.
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TU44J2 - is it possible?
205rallye_slo replied to AndreasN's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Goal: TU3 alloy is around 20kg lighter then iron tu5 -good for car handling. Using tu24 head on TU3 no go becouse compresion ratio(to big head camber)- so i understad that lowering cilinders is a must(or fit expensive domed pistons). With tu5 cranks sems just tu3 pistons need to be lowered(or reshape in domed)? (If other parts fit together without modification) Question how this "75x82" is working comper original Tu2 tu3 and tu5... -
TU44J2 - is it possible?
Arthur replied to AndreasN's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
What is the goal? To get it under 1500cc? I made a hybrid ones, just the other way around. I've put a 106 1.4 xsi crank into a 106 1.6 rallye engine. Result 1490cc, 7.5 ish compression and iron block. But the goal was to have keep it in one piece with 1.5 bar turbo pressure. But it did result in a quite revy turbo engine. And it kept in one piece with approx. 225 bhp and 300 Nm. Same can't be said about the ma box though (-: -
Not my photo, but:
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Khalfan joined the community
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TU44J2 - is it possible?
205rallye_slo replied to AndreasN's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Another think is that this motor will be even more undersquere that tu5 -which they claim to be lezy(not wiling to revolve). Strok ratio tu24 1,02, tu3 0.96, tu5 0.95, "tu4" 0,91 - Yesterday
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The switch for the glovebox sits underneath the door in a rectangular slot and those 2 green wires go to it although mine has a plug rather than 2 spade connectors . Where exactly does the little bulb for the ashtray plug into as I can't figure it out ?
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Driver door central locking actuator
greenclaws1975 replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
Thanks Richie, Already butchered mine with a dremel but it seems like neither of the micro switches are working ..but im no electronics engineer. Looked on French ebay but can't find anything resembling it -
Driver door central locking actuator
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
No they are not available anymore and quite hard to find good used ones. Do a search as someone here recently repaired theirs, maybe they can guide you how. Last time i tried to open one up it ruined it beyond repair so i replaced with an aftermarket locking kit that linked to my alarm so its all on one fob. -
Driver door central locking actuator
greenclaws1975 replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
Hi SRDT, Are the the light grey units still available ?..my actuators all work fine but the microswitches in the drivers door dont seem to be working -
TU44J2 - is it possible?
205rallye_slo replied to AndreasN's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hello. Nice project, looks like you will not be first to do this. If you search on google: tu3 with tu5 crank, you will get some result on this forum. But info are not very detailed... maybe is so easy to put it together:) The crankshaft need some rework, or fit directly in? Timebelt puley is same tu3/tu5? Flywheel? Tu5 rods sems stronger, but in my opinion to long-you need to remove to much material?(126.8 vs 133.5mm, so you need to remove 6.7mm??+2.5mm to compensate biger stroke? On other hand in one topic is writen that tu5 rods was used... -
205rallye_slo joined the community
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Decoding the Infra-Red Remote Central Locking
UnintegratedCircuit replied to lightflow's topic in Misc/General Technical
The clay attack took longer than expected - just got the last bit of wax buffed off as the rain rolled in I've done some digging this evening and got the timing and protocol of my key. I won't be sharing loads of info on the design process itself, but rest assured it'll be happening. In theory though, with the info in this post, anyone could whip up their own if they were prepared to do the research, so I feel that's a fair trade? As in the link at the top of this thread, the code is 24 bits (or binary digits, either a 1 or a 0) long. The protocol is pretty simple, see the TEA5500 datasheet in the top link for more info on that. Basically there's a periodic 'clock' pulse which is sent out once every 1.888ms in my case (I'll be specific because I'm not sure of the timing tolerances at play here). If a second pulse follows shortly afterwards (0.468ms in my case), that binary digit is a 1, otherwise, if there is no second pulse, that binary digit is a 0. Obviously this happens 24 times to make up the code. The code is transmitted 3 times. The width of each pulse was measured to be 0.041ms (or 41 microseconds). Below are some oscilloscope shots (I use a PicoScope 2204A) of a '0' followed by a '1', which should help the above make sense. All you need to do is pulse an infrared LED (not sure whether it's 850nm or 940nm emission wavelength, both seem to be common, maybe it doesn't even matter?) according to those specs, with your car's code and it should lock/unlock. Possible reasons why it wouldn't lock/unlock, in no particular order: Wrong wavelength infrared LED (again, maybe it matter, maybe it doesn't I don't yet know). This should obviously never be an issue with a genuine key. Wrong timing - pulses too close together or too far apart. This could be on the key side, or on the receiver side inside the car if either have drifted wildly out of tolerance. Wrong code for your car. Faulty receiver - think water damage/corrosion, cracked solder joint, failed component etc. Faulty key (again this would be a component failure or similar). Faulty central locking system - failed actuators, central locking controller, vehicle wiring, etc. I guess 3, 4, 5, and 6 are pretty obvious, but perhaps the first two are less so? -
I'm building a new loom for our car. I'm retaining the original gauges, so I am starting with Zoldalma's excellent 'article' - Instrument Panel Explained - from 2002! Most of it makes complete sense to me, but I am confused by having two pins for the oil temp: A1 is the Warning light and A7 is the Signal. Can someone please expand on this? Similarly two separate pins for for the coolant temp and another two for oil pressure. Again, D6 is the Fuel level sensor and D7 is the Low fuel warning light. Are there two wires from the sensor?
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i think most likely that the hubs have a taller offset from the hub flange to the strut clamp, pushing the balljoint out. for the narrow (standard) track kit they use the 307 hubs though, very similar lower balljoint arrangement, same caliper fitment as a 205/306, but a 2 bolt clamp to the strut.
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Hi anyone know why the starter motor has 2 blue wires from spade connector ? It from a 89 405 mi16 loom? Thanks
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1993 Gentry air filter
PhilNW replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
How do the dims of your existing one compare the crosland one? -
1993 Gentry air filter
Bremar replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Brilliant, They have that in stock about 20 mins away. £6.79. Just wasn’t easy to know if I was missing something. I will pick it up tomorrow. Thanks. Bremar -
1993 Gentry air filter
PhilNW replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Dims from Euro car parts web site for a crosland filter Filter TypeFilter Insert Height mm243 Inner Diameter mm72 Outer diameter mm111 -
Hi I was inspecting the engine, more specifically the air filter. Either its the wrong size or something is missing from the airbox, Ive attche a link to a YouTube vid to show the issue. Any help would be appreciated Thanks Bremar.
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pretty sure the satchel 406 setup adds a minimum of 25mm to the track width, i assume to overcome any addition of positive camber from the differing hubs? I've thought about 406 hubs down the line but when you add the cost of sorting the brake offset and longer driveshafts it adds up quickly
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Thanks. It’s certainly a strange consistency.
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this is what satchell make for the 106, 205 arms are similar but the rear link mounting to the tca is inverted
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it would have been some kind of grease, you don't need loads on there, decades old heat cycled grease does make some weird consistency substances! axle wouldn't have been from a 306 unless some substantial shell mods were done and it has dimma or maxi rear arches..
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This is what I made for mine and my friend Adrian with 406/Bridgecraft hubs. Another friend Parry, also uses them, but with dodgy Ø16mm pins clamped in std 205 hubs.
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Rose joint pin info
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Another thought, what about making an end for the wishbone that can be adjusted in and out and uses the standard 406 ball joint. Might be simpler. -
Help Identifying connectors in engine bay
Bremar replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hi, PhilNW errr I am sure the wiring diagrams will at some point prove useful. Necessity at some point will force me to understand the detail but I was definitely overwhelmed at the minute. thanks Welshpug, good to know they are not just loose wiring that should have a home. Bremar.
