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- Today
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Hi guys, I have a problem with my recently purchased 1.6 GTI where the speedo needle fluctuates a lot at lower speeds but gets more stable at higher speeds. I'm planning on ordering a new speedo cable but I'm struggling to identify which part number mine is, after a few google and forum searches I think it's a 6123.72 which is an 1100mm one. I have a 1990 1.6 GTI is this the correct PN or are there other lengths that will fit just fine? Next problem is I can't find anywhere with this PN in stock, there is spoox but your looking at neck end of £100 which I'm not prepared to pay. Mike
- Yesterday
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There are plated diff's available for the syncro rears, rather expensive however.
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You can probably find a Torsen diff for the 01E gearbox, to link it with the rear diff in a non rigid way you could use a giubo. As for closed diff maybe they mean welded. There is LSD conversion kits that could be used, it's far from a real LSD but better than nothing. The diff gears are probably from another VW gearbox so you may not even need a custom kit.
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I have been recomended to only have the rear closed and front and middle open. Sellholm.se……..racing suspension and gearbox company. I dont know how i will close the rear diff at this point?
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This picture show the parts i have cut out from the viscous-system. I have cut the axle with splines in half so i could use it on two rear diff. I only had one viscous system. These 2 parts will be welded to brackets attached to the driveshafts to the front diff. The rear diff will be very close to the gearbox and i will probably use a Hardy-plate? I will be a bit of a struggle to lineup the diff with gearbox and not build in forces that ruin the gearbox. I take some pictures of cutup viscous to morrow
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Need to change my front drive flanges over winter (crappy threads). I think the part number for 1.9 non abs hubs is 330785, could someone confirm? I see loads listed on autodoc etc, is there any brand to go for or avoid? Thanks
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I must apologize to the three of you. I had (at least thought I had) turned on 'notify me of replies', and thought no one had replied ... Working backward, Mei, a brilliant article, I will definitely use it as a reference in the future! Boring out the existing flange, perhaps having rotated 45deg, is not off the table.... Baptise, the regulations in our race championship allow only the most minimal of modifications, so it is a question of finding the optimum of what is permitted (i.e., I can prove it was fitted to a 1.6GTI). As the maximum front track is desirable, there seems little value in using anything other than the larger offset 1.6 flange (is that 3307 50?). However, I heard a rumour at Donington over the weekend that there is an even larger offset version on the very early 1.6s (tying in with Mei's article) - I would have no idea how to get a pair. Tom, I'm on a steep learning curve here, are your ones the 3307 50? I would be very interested.
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If you put some plasticine/playdoh up under bulkhead where partial vin is stamped you will get a perfect impression of full number. Stephen
- Last week
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I'd be interested to see the pictures of the inside of one so that would be great. If you wanted to go to a simple viscous system on one of the axles you could use a freelander viscous coupling unit in one of the propshafts like the honda lot do when converting civics to 4wd, super simple way to implement it if needed. What are you going to do about differentials as you've now got 3 open diffs in there? Thanks for sharing so far, its super interesting
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VIN is stamped right there. Can you read it? Post a pic.
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I've recently bought a gti shell that was ment for track never made it and now its mine but.... The log book is lost there is no vin plate but got what is on bulk head it's a bit rusty have got some letters and numbers. is there anyone who can help me with what I've got ???
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Greg barclay joined the community
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I have removed the viscos part and cut it in 2 pieces so I could use the splines and build brackets to be able to attache the diff directly to the driveshafts. It will give me 100% drive all the time, not like its supposed to work, only drive when the front tyres are spinning. I have also locked it in drive and removed the pneumatic system that engage the drive when brakes are not used. Ill take som pictures tomorrow
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No Haldex at the time, it's a viscous coupling unit. The whole setup is a bit basic yet effective for a car like the Golf Syncro or even the Passat g60 syncro. The Golf and Passat had related platforms so using the Passat drivetrain VW could make the Golf Rallye Gr.A homologation special on the cheap. But just like the "cheap" Gr.B a few years earlier there is simply no way to win against top notch cars like the Lancia Delta. The only reason to use that diff on the replica is the 21:20 final drive.
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Big step forward today. Engine and box back in. Thanks to Paul for helping guide it back in. Rad dropped in. Things should start to move quickly now. Looking forward to getting it back on all 4 wheels.
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Are the syncro diffs haldex? I know the R32 rear diffs are about 1.4:1 and are haldex, but are practically bombproof and can hold 1500nm without much issue but you'd have the haldex clutches to deal with
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I have been working on the rear and have found Öhlins a subaru Impreza suspensin from group N rallycar. So far the most exspensive part on this build. i’m very satisfied with the tubebending on the main rollcage. My homemade tubebender is not so precise and have no scales so i just have to wing it(?). I use 45/3mm tubes and it will be very strong, and heavy…… I have found 2 golf syncro reardiff, the same as the Golf rally G60 uses. They are freerolling when you use the abs on the Golf and I have removed this funktion and now it work the way I want, always in drivemode. This is probably the week part in the drivetrain. Maximum 300-350hp? Also fitted adjustable controllarms an next step is to weld the brakets in right position to have right camber and caster angles.
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TheHasani joined the community
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Fizzy_Phil joined the community
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Starting car first time after 3yr storage period . . .
PhilNW replied to pugfrank's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
New belt and tensioner have a habit of messing up old water pumps, which means you end up doing it twice. False economy leaving old pump in. -
Thanks Tom. All water and breather hoses were replaced with bakerbm silicone ones so hopefully should be ok, but I will carefully all check fuel lines and bushes. good shout on the fuel filter too. I have to say it’s refreshing how many parts are available now which just weren’t when I did the work 10 years ago!
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It sounds a good list. Only thing I would add is have a good look at anything made of rubber as the modern stuff isn't as good and does degrade. Fuel and brake hoses, bushes, etc. Maybe fuel filter also as its cheap and easy enough to replace.
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All being well, Martin should be dropping my old 205 back to me tonight after being laid up indoors for 8 years. It has already been started and driven round the block a few times, so too late for any first engine start comments. Before it was laid up it had done less than 2000 miles since a pretty thorough suspension, engine and gearbox overhaul. I am thinking of doing the following: New battery, Oil and filter Cambelt, water pump and tensioners Aux belts and A/C Tensioner Coolant flush and change Brake fluid flush Check brake callipers are free, check everything over, MOT, a few short drives I know the tyres will need changed soon, but it will have to wait a few weeks with funds. Am I missing anything that I should be looking at?
- Earlier
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Been said before, but you really need to travel to get an enthusiast to do your axle, not a 'specialist' who offers them cheap
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Urrrgh great. So that means I need a rebuild kit and still find someone to do it for me. One step forward and two back!
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Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
welshpug replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Not a laser no, an 89 White 1.9 -
I also won't supply axles to anyone which have been machined and sleeved. A few times on stripping machined axles the trailing arm was removed with outer bearing and machined sleeve stuck solid on shaft
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- Chuchy
- petert
Hello, I´d like to know your mi16 cam and chip prices, could you tell me an email? I can´t send to you a privae message.
Thanks.
