Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Yesterday
  2. Warine

    Front Seat Slider Handle Retaining clips

    Warine replied to johnyma22's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    Any help on this one would be much appreciated ☺️
  3. SweetBadger

    BE3 Wilwood Clutch Slave Cylinder Modification

    SweetBadger replied to LucasDunkley's topic in Gearbox & Drivetrain

    Yes, I've just done exactly that - see here:
  4. SweetBadger started following BE3 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion - Wilwood pull type
  5. SweetBadger
    eec911c8-a388-4eca-8369-dbc93ce3bd25.MP4 Hi all, I’ve been having more fun with race clutches, specifically finding a way to get an acceptable pedal feel and travel. I have a single plate AP Racing 7.25 lug clutch with cerametallic clutch plate on the race car, and it has a strong diaphragm spring with a max release bearing throw of 5.5mm. This translates to a very heavy clutch pedal with low travel when using a standard clutch cable and pedal. And even after modifying the cable pull point on the pedal to increase leverage (giving longer pedal travel and an acceptable clutch pedal pressure) there is still far more tension in the clutch cable than it’s been designed for. I have found that the rubber bushes in the cable compress, and the clutch pedal travel is very inconsistent -> as the clutch / engine gets hot the pedal drops slightly and then the cable requires more adjustment to fully disengage the clutch. Basically I’ve never been 100% happy with it, often coming in off a track day or race and struggling to select 1st gear due to it needing adjustment. So I started looking at ways to change to a hydraulic clutch system - as hydraulic clutches with a reservoir automatically adjust to account for wear or any minor change to the clutch setup height as things get hot. You can also change the master cylinder size to alter the overall ratio of pedal movement / effort to release bearing movement. I have figured out a way to use a wilwood pull type slave cylinder directly mounted on the standard clutch arm, and a master cylinder connected to the standard clutch pedal with no major modifications required - in fact you could unbolt the hydraulic setup and change back to a cable setup without changing anything else. It uses one of these slave cylinders: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4080 The slave cylinder mounts as so using standard clutch plastic bushes: For some reason Wilwood recommend you mount the slave cylinder so that the body moves and the piston stays still, but it has to be mounted the other way round on the BE box, I can’t see a good reason why this would be a problem though. Clutch arm needs bending up slightly to accommodate the cylinder, and the gearbox housing needs a little material removing to make room for the slave cylinder body (nothing significant, just a tickle with the power file!). The master cylinder is an AP racing CP6465 https://apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/pull-type-trunnion-mounted/cp6465 bloody expensive new (£400 ish), but available from the US 2nd hand for £60 posted (loads of ex nascar ones available) Master cylinder is mounted directly below the pedal box on a simple bracket made up from some 25mm box section, combined with a 20mm alloy stand-off (cut at the correct angle for where it meets the bulk head), and a long m8 12.9 cap head to anchor the master cylinder, plus a cheap ebay rubber boot which goes over the master cylinder and creates a decent seal to the pedal box. Where it bolts through: Master cylinder bolted on: It connects to the standard pedal clutch cable point via an M8 Clevis fork (readily available on eBay for not much money). Note early non-hook type clutch pedal required. A custom Hel Performance hose runs where the standard clutch cable does (£35), and it works a treat: WhatsApp Video 2024-09-24 at 23.10.11_b89bbd5b.mp4 Video above shows slave cylinder movement with a 21.2mm diameter master cylinder - this would be about right for a standard clutch, but too much travel for the AP racing clutch. I ran it on a track day last week with an 18.8mm master cylinder, and it was really good. Far nicer pedal feel, and most importantly consistent over the whole day. I’m moving to a 17.3mm master cylinder next (another one just arrived from the US!) as clutch pedal travel was still slightly too short for my liking. This should give a 10% lighter pedal with slightly increased travel over the 18.8mm one. The external slave cylinder has the advantage of being easily serviceable if something does go wrong with it, and it can simply be replaced with a clutch cable for a quick fix on the side of a race track should the worse happen! Video at the top of the post (sorry can't move the damn thing) shows it working with the 18.8mm master cylinder (clicking noise is just the rubber boot - sorted with some grease on the piston) Hope this is of some use - I’d recommend this for anyone considering fitting a clutch with a strong spring which would otherwise put the cable under much more tension.
  6. wicked

    Xmt - Sarty's Xsara GTI6 Turbo

    wicked replied to DrSarty's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    Congrats! Epic milestone in a build like this. My longwinded engine build did its first start this winter as well and it's nerve-racking due to the yrs waiting... When will it be mapped?
  7. Last week
  8. SweetBadger

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    SweetBadger replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    Took mine out on its 1st track outing last week after some improvements over the winter - bridgecraft roll centre correction kit, hydraulic clutch conversion. arrived at Snetterton misfiring due to suspected fuel starvation… After pissing about under the car all morning changing fuel pumps, it still wasn’t right, finally discovered a blocked fuel filter! With that removed, ran the rest of the day without a hitch! Front end even more pointy with the roll centre kit now that the wishbones aren’t pointing upward. Highly recommended upgrade if your car is significantly lowered.
  9. SRDT

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    SRDT replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    I can never understand why every single 205 door card has the window winder hole cut by default, even the most luxurious trims that had electric windows as standard. They had no problem leaving the cloth intact on the 309 but somehow no 205 was good enough for that aside from the turbo 16.
  10. Leslie green

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters

    I removed the plastic of the back of the doorcard and wet the card and then clamped it between 2 pieces of wood for a few days , leaving it on its end so the water could drain out , this seems to have worked ok and the bad warping is gone .I fitted the doorcard after putting new plastic on and removing the lock again as the retainer behind is too tight and was pulling in the doorskin around it , a little filing on the sides of the lock and its much better now. I couldn't get the speaker cover to latch , had same bother with passenger side on to the clips so used black rear arch clips and body grommets instead as these are longer , I put some butyl behind the clips so it didn't push back and used the arch rubber washers to hold the clip on as well.I think the replacement speakers edges are not allowing the clips to sit in enough . Now its fitted I can see the window winder hole is bigger on the drivers side for some reason , I thought they should be the same , these cards were bought as mine had turned brown instead of black , I need to get them found to see if they are the same and hopefully find a winder blank or 2 still on them . Larger screws 5.5 x 19mm instead of the original 4.8 x 19mm have held the door bins on better , all but 1 is holding fine , they had bigger screws fitted before I got them as the doors are replacements and the holes were wider already.. I was going to fit rivnuts but the M4 screws I got the heads are very small and would need washers to not pull though the doorbins ,plus don't want swarf from drilling rusting inside the door Of course the tabs fell on one switch when I tried to refit it , not bad considering I've caught them in the door at least a dozen times before tying it up out the way.
  11. Telf
    In the end I took the heat shields off, top engine mount and just made enough room. Now to decide what to buy for the rest of the system.
  12. samarone samarone changed their profile photo
  13. pugdamo
    Thankyou, it's sort of what I expected, I know nothing about the diff type other than it's a VAL racing one. Looks like it's gearbox out time again. When I get time to do it I'll report back.
  14. Tom Fenton

    [Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

    Tom Fenton replied to Telf's topic in Body, Misc & Non-Car Work

    Personally I would just drop the subframe to fit that. Doesn't take all that much doing to drop it, bottom arms, track rod ends, drop links, gear linkage, steering column lower coupling, the clip on the clutch cable.
  15. Tom Fenton
    Hard to really judge. If it is a plate diff then yes they do click and jump a bit on lock on dry tarmac, on gravel you see the wheels skip a bit as there isn't the grip. I've a plate diff in my road rally car and to the uninitiated it makes a horrendous noise manoeuvering at low speed. If there is no metal debris coming out when you drain the oil then perhaps its working as it should. That said, if its never done that before, and then suddenly has started doing it, after a big junction launch, then its more likely something is broken.
  16. ATK
  17. ATK
    Tucked up in the garage after almost daily use since August last year. Not huge mileage as my commute is short but it’s an easy car to park on the school run, even if it means it’s picked up some (more) car park dings and also some idiot in an SUV scraped the front bumper - and left an garbled unreadbale note with a fake number! Never mind - been enjoying using it which is the whole point! Performed really well rain or shine and jjst about to hit 192k miles. Still leaking a bit of rainwater underneath rear windows and in passenger footwell, but better than it was! Changed gearbox oil this weekend and the Lanoguard protection I applied underneath has done a great job protecting it over winter etc. Had the old girl just over 11 years now…!
  18. pugdamo
    These are the videos, I appreciate they are a bit crap but the one going backwards I can feel it bind up, then my mate chucked the phone in and I went back a bit more and it cracked off, it will do this forwards or backwards and the other video shows the wheels skipping, when there's no gravel on the road it will bind to a stop and then crack off, the oil sample looks clean but this box was probably fitted 12-18 months ago and obviously had fresh oil, driving this car before you wouldn't really know it has a limited slip, for me the diff has locked but I have never diagnosed a failed LSD and don't want to pull the box and strip for no reason. And yes my cousin is a he lol. VID-20250330-WA0011.mp4 VID-20250330-WA0008.mp4
  19. ArthurH
    Just for the benefit of anyone else reading this, I can confirm the leftmost in my picture (the shortest) is the temp gauge, the rightmost is the temp warning light, and the blue one is the temp sensor for the ECU.
  20. welshpug
    Support the engine and remove the top arm, swinging the bottom around wont achieve much.
  21. SRDT
    Disconnect the lower engine mount ant try to tilt the engine a bit.
  22. Gohn
    easy for me to say, but go back return it get a refund - get another OE exhaust manifold trying to jam in that staino one will be terrible, and stainless cracks and sounds s*it anyway your custom exhaust quote sounds barely believable my local did mine for $145 (£75!) versus £750 there were two sections they bent, welded and fitted. great job that was before inflation went mental but still 10X the price !! keep on
  23. ArthurH
    Thanks Peter, all good suggestions - We did manage to get the nut off today having removed all the staking, but have run out of time to fix it. I will try Loctite first, but I'm thinking I could drill and tap it on the join, perhaps M6, so the bolt will become a key. We do remove the drum very regularly; the self-adjuster probably stopped working decades ago.
  24. petert
    Obviously to repair it you still need to remove the axle. Three things come to mind: 1. Drill & tap M12, for a socket headed cap screw, weld around the outside. 2. Drill & tap LH M12 for a left handed a socket headed cap screw. 3. Weld a cheap 1/2" drive socket to the end.
  25. petert
    If it has been modified by Bridgecraft to increase the camber, then it has no splines. As I explained earlier, they re-bore the hole to a larger diameter, then fit one of their axles. Thus why there is no allen key hole. They obviously got the interference fit wrong. I can see two solutions: 1. remove axle, apply Loctite 620 and hope that it holds, if not, 2. turn up a slightly larger axle. It only needs to be 0.002" bigger in OD, I'd suggest.
  26. Telf
    I'd rather chew my feet off than spend 700 quid tbh
  27. Leslie green
    If its rotating there can't be any splines ,an impact gun should still take it off ,if not you will have to try and weaken the nut and then split it will a chisel if there is room.
  28. Leslie green

    [Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

    Leslie green replied to Telf's topic in Body, Misc & Non-Car Work

    Paul you can get a milltek stainless exhaust for around 700 quid .
  29. Telf
    Chaps, A problem I did not think about, how to fit this part! It's fouling on everything and no way I can wiggle it in. My I initial thought is remove the gear linkages and heat shield and try again, if still no luck then remove the top engine mount and pull the engine forward. Before I head down this path, anybody who's fitted one of these can you comment ?
  1. Load more activity
×