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Ophelia Greywood changed their profile photo
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I never even knew there was such a thing , will probably just employ the nyloc as well but I dont have a spare tyre yet just the alloy so leaving it off for now
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Blown Engine + swap
SRDT replied to J_Steele's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
It's not just the XU9J1 ECU, you also need the corresponding engine loom. -
part number's #761906 if you can order it or mine was missing when purchased a few years ago I cut a rubber wedge and its good
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It might be available from the main dealer, I've never tried. A bolt and nyloc nut and a couple of washers fitted in the loop will perform the same job and stop the cage from being able to get out.
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Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Tom Fenton replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
It can be a bit deceptive, checking voltage with no load applied (eg pump not connected) you may see near to battery voltage which makes you think the wiring is OK and it should work. With the load applied and hence a current draw you can be down to a couple of volts which isn't enough to make the pump work. If yours is like that it won't be the first or the last! -
Blown Engine + swap
Gohn replied to J_Steele's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
have no experience with any of the 1.9 engines but had a XU5M with an auto ZF gearbox both are good and I became very fond of the auto but would encourage you to go ahead as the longer it sits, the less likely it is to get back on the road mechanically it should be fine if you take out the XU5 and put in the CTI 1.9 engine and the CTi or Roland Garros came with the auto box anyway you'll have any gearbox/flywheel parts to take off your XU5 don't know if you need to change the ECU though ? I'd probably just try and see and change it if needed - Last week
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Hi everyone,right,I’ve just had to remove my spare wheel carrier but to remove it I had to remove a plastic clip to allow me to lift the hinged side up and to the side to drop it down.On removing the plastic clip it snapped.Any ideas on where to get another one or even what it’s called.Huge thanks in advance.
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Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Thanks Tom I hadn't considered that will check it out . -
Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Tom Fenton replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Often the wiring from the washer pump really suffers from corrosion to the copper. More than once I have had to cut it back to near the bulkhead to find wire that is still good copper, and then re wire it. -
Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Thanks Paul few more jobs done , vinyl on B pillar , only a few wrinkles lol , outer door seals on , 1/4 window seals changed and new dome nuts on the glass , rear fog loom swapped out for a better one ,had to remove bumper then 2 lower straps riveted on , A pillar trims on and new number plates . Tried to book an mot online and reg not recognised, will have to ring up and see if I can get it sorted. Needs lights set and co and washer pump isn't getting any voltage so needs sorted , stalk might be faulty not sure. -
I think what your trying to build is my car! I've got a UK Rallye, but with all the good bits of the Euro Rallye - Tu24, Webers, gti subframes etc. It really is a great package. I think you might be overcomplicating things by trying to source a tu24 and things like that, as in I'm not sure you'd notice a massive difference between a spicy tu3 and a tu24 - just make sure you keep the alloy block. The original DCOMs are also a bit of a pain to find anyone who knows anything about them, DCOEs would be much easier. Your UK rallye project with a hotted up tu, gti front and rear subframes and some Bilstiens would be amazing. You can get the interior pretty close too, gti red carpet, red seatbelts - dash blanks are easy to come by, I have one!
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It doesn't take long to get used to LHD over here. As a daily driver then yes it can be tiresome with things like car parks, drive thrus etc. But realistically you probably wouldn't use that car for those uses.
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i took mine out for the first time in ages. Its been sat looking sorry for itself on the drive for months. Drove to the coast in the sun and had a few waves as people overtook. A guy in a McLaren decided he needed to show me his car was quicker than my 205. Made me smile.
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Hello all, I'm doing some research into my next project. I'd really like a Euro Rallye, the most simple thing to do would be to just buy one but I'm not sure if I could live with a LHD car, although I have no experience actually driving a LHD car. What is your guys experience on this? I recently bought a UK Rallye project with the intetions of building it as a Euro Rallye, installing a tu24, gti running gear, going as far as sourcing the dash blank, mirror blank, deleting side repeaters, getting the correct clocks etc. I'm second guessing that decision now - although it would be a great project, and sometimes half the fun is sourcing all these rare parts, there would be far too much time, effort and money spent trying to achieve this. I could just get a basemodel 205 and get a nice built Tu3 with carbs/itbs for it but I don't think I'd be happy with the end product as it would just be a modded basemodel and not a proper Rallye, in my opinion. Keen to hear what you guys think, has anyone built a similar car or know of any that are similar spec that would possibly be for sale? Or any contacts in UK for Euro Rallye parts? Cheers,
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Hello everyone, I bought a 205 which I fell in love with unfortunately the lovely owner sold it to me with a blown headgasket.... After getting a mechanic to look at it, the damage is so far gone they couldn't remove a head bolt and have said they need to take engine out to do it etc etc. I have got other opinions from welders etc who all say same as bolt is not budging. So for same costing or maybe cheaper I can buy a new engine. Now I have found a 1.6 Auto engine from a running car, blokes really nice and they're breaking the car however, it's now been a few months and they don't want to remove the engine until they've sold the shell etc. So my 205 is just sat waiting. Yesterday I found a 1.9 CTI engine, this is from a working running car. It was from a manual car but presumably the mechanic could remove the flywheel and mate it up to my auto box? 1.9 is an XU9 and I currently have an XU5 engine. Honestly the power difference is negligible really I just wondered if anyone had any opinions on what would be better and could the auto handle it? The other issue is the CTI engine doesn't have the ECU with it so would I need to source one? Does it have to be a CTI one?
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StanMarsh9201 changed their profile photo
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You can also check how much volts you have at the motor vs at the battery.
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Nice weather gave me the opportunity to have a clean around in the engine bay and remove quite a few years worth of grime from under the bonnet, etc. Came up pretty good considering but probably needs another going over to get it nicer. Ordered a new starter motor as part of the plans to overhaul the remaining bits on the starting / ignition side of things. Hopefully that will turn up by the end of the week.
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great work Leslie. looks very tidy.
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hey yep its not that, its coming from the rear
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Thanks guys. I have to put my hand up to this one. It was me who last assembled the beam in 2020. I hadn't realised the gaps (it's the same both sides) were wrong. It hasn't given us any issues over the last 4 seasons, but obviously I will have a look asap. Another difference between the base and GTI shells is the four holes that the forward studs of the rear beam bolt through. They are significantly larger on the GTI. What this means to me, is that there is no play between the studs and the cage feet, so removing and refitting the beam is a much trickier job than it had been.
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Fully understanding cooling system
ArthurH replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I have just discovered this excellent diagram while looking for similar information for the cooling system of the XUJ5 engine. As the race car has no cabin heater, I am trying to understand if I need to bypass it with a hose from the coolant manifold (next to the drive-shaft support bracket) to the side of the thermostat housing, or better still, block both those outlets and remove the pipe entirely. TiA -
Cleaning up/polishing commutator with gray scotch brite pad usually does the trick , as well as re-greasing the motor mechanism as grease tends to be pushed out of it during the years of use . If not that , it'll likely be bad/oxidized motor wiring .. peel back some wire insulation and have a look if the copper strands are blackened underneath . Can also try earth bypass directly to battery negative and see what happens , motor earth point is prone to corrosion . With 106 motor wiper speed does and should improve . D
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Yeah fully stripped
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Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Quick Question Should the bulbs in the FRONT indicators be orange or clear in a phase 2 cars with clear indicators , despite being new they seem a bit dim with clear bulbs ? Maybe that's how they are and I don't remember seeing any old orange bulbs before but it was a long time ago. In other news I moved it outside and the gearknob fell apart in my hand ! Any advice on fitting the black vinyl on the door frames should I spray water to help it slide into place or not ? -
Did you take apart the spindles and clean /grease them as rust in here slows the motor a lot ?
