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  2. jonathan_steenbergen

    Project: Xu12J4

    Ah oke. Didnt expect to have everything right the first time ;⁠-⁠) But bottom finished, head ready for now. Hope to have the blue 309 out of the shet soon en let the engine bay blasting and painted. Meanwhile finding time to make the engine complete. Ecu will be KMS, also will be going there when finished for the making it run.
  3. I have a brand new Peugeot expansion tank for a TU engine if you need one.
  4. Last week
  5. Complete 205 repair manual : Haynes Peugeot 205 Service And Repair Manual.pdf
  6. No TU1M diagram but it should be similar to the XU5M diagram ;
  7. petert

    Adjustable bottom arms

    Compbrake arms are extremely weak and fail under heavy braking. I have seen this happen twice. Welding a length of 25x6 mild steel on edge fixed the issue.
  8. I think the best thing to do would be to try and find an xs engine to start with. One of those with a set of twin Webers would be brilliant. Or maybe even a larger 1.6tu out of a saxo?
  9. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the tu1/m wasted spark ignition wiring? Or does anyone know which wire is negatives as they are all reading 12v. Thanks
  10. The "torque" method clamping force is influenced by how much friction you have on the threads and under the bolt head. That means that it's even more important to start with clean threads and use the specified lubricant. The Peugeot Sport Gr.N engine manual is using the "300 degrees" method but with a few extra steps : -OEM blots are lubricated with MoS2 -Make sure that the new bolts are correctly lubricated -If needed use MoS2 dry spray -Tighten in order (spiral starting from the center, as said above) at 2 m.daN then in order at 4 m.daN then in order at 6 m.daN -Wait 5 to 6 minutes for the head to "rest" -Slacken bolt N° 1, tighten it back at 2 m.daN then 300° in one go. -Do the same with each bolt in order.
  11. I need a new radiator for my 205 Open, TU3A 1.4. I currently have what I believe to be a Nissens 63425 (1300 K7) radiator. After looking around various places, I realised that actually there are two different radiators that are listed to fit my car, I think the part numbers are 1300 K7 and 1300 K6, but wasn't entirely sure on the differences, it says one is plastic and one metallic, which I assume are just the bits on the side of the radiator, but they also seem to be completely different lengths. Here's the parts catalog for the TU radiator https://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/1/13A20A.HTM I had a few issues with overheating last summer, and think that it would be great if I could get a bigger radiator if possible, which the 1300 K7 is in fact longer.. I just want to be sure that it will fit? I'm looking currently at NRF radiators, I'll link the two below.. one of which is the same as the Nissens 63425 which I currently have, so I'm positive that WILL fit. The other says it's for a 1.8d, however also says OE number 1300 K6 which is listed to fit my car. Will this one fit or not? https://webshop.nrf.eu/automotive/peugeot-12894.html < 1300 K7 - definetly will fit https://webshop.nrf.eu/automotive/peugeot-14789.html < 1300 K6 - not sure? Looking for any recommendations and help! Thanks
  12. I'll offer something different , no degrees just Nm's : 1- 30 Nm 2- 55 Nm 3- Loosen all bolts in spiral from 10-1 4- 80 Nm 5- 95 Nm *6- Loosen with a long T bar 1/4 of a turn from 10-1 and tighten back (prior to loosening mark position first with tipex , and loosen-1/4-tight back up to the tipex mark) (*optional , ie. not necessary) Use light smear of good quality moly grease on the head bolt threads , and on the area under the head bolt heads . For cleaning block bolt threads , use old head bolt prepared with the grinder - cut two slot/flutes on threads opposite of each other , and clean up the block bolt threads with that .. cutting tap from my personal experience is too "aggressive" for aluminum threads , it just weakens them making them more prone to strip especially for bolt on areas with a lot of clamping force/Nm . Factory XU9J4 rebuild manual : XU9J4 Rebuild Manual.pdf
  13. I've got a 205 Open that I've been working on to look like a euro rallye, got all the decals etc on, and just finished the wheel arches and its looking real nice. But the engine is completely standard, single carb, was wondering if there's anything I can do to increase performance, not necessarily by much, just looking for ideas. How much does the tu3a differ from the xs's tu3s? I would love to replace most of the hoses with some silicone ones however after searching everywhere I don't think anywhere offers such things for the tu3/a, I emailed bakerbm who said it's something they would like to look into but need an original set to work with. Maybe get rid of the standard air box and put on a performance air filter? If its even an improvement over the standard that is Any other ideas at all would be great, cheers.
  14. 60Nm to seat them, back them all off 20Nm initial torque Then +300 degrees Similar to what Graham describes, I usually do +90, +90, +90, +30 degrees round the sequence to total the +300 degrees rather than do it in one hit. The sequence is the typical start in the middle and work outwards. I would recommend always run a tap through the block threads first, 11x1.5 I think, usually a lot of rubbish comes out. I have helicoiled quite a few successfully, you need the 2xD length inserts if you need to do that. Making a simple drill guide helps a lot if you need to do it in the car. I've not used a Timesert here, but think they would be tricky to do as the threads are down a deep counterbore in the block. Always use new head bolts, they aren't expensive in the grand scheme of things. From memory the 405 Haynes manual has all the XU9J4 Mi16 torque settings in.
  15. The XU10J2TE and XU10J4 also have two TPS pins to swap and they are both using MP3.2 with a similar TB design.
  16. Ahh, OK. It's odd that the TPS on MP3.1 seems to have a different pin out to other TPS's used on ecu's like the MM8P etc. I had to do the same on my car when I first got it up & running but we swapped the pins around in the original plug. g
  17. Hi Graham, sorry I should have said, but I’m afraid it won’t be much of a help to others. when I first fitted MP3.1 back in 2012 my TPS didn’t work as expected. You helped me out with a wiring diagram and I needed to swap two pins in the TPS plug. I put an extra, reversible connector in the loom to allow me to swap and if ever needed swap back without having to de-pin the JPT connector. My additional connector corroded. Probably not of use to anyone else, but helpful to me because it was an easy find and fix. Pls can I just give a shout out. There are a few on here who have been consistently helpful and knowledgeable for both durations of me owning and modding this car over a 15 year period. Not many places where that would happen! Proper, proper thanks to you all.
  18. PhilNW

    Starter issue.

    Might be same problem
  19. Any links I've found posted previously for the Mi16 workshop manual (including the links to the downloads on 205gti.com) no longer work unfortunately but if you have the original Haynes manual torque settings, they are fine for use but a search on the XU engine forums on here should find you them or what others have used without issue. I should have it somewhere on an old HDD but finding it could prove time consuming, I'll try to search a couple I have handy & if I find anything I'll post it in a reply as soon as I can. The only variance to the haynes manual I used when I built my engines is doing the final 300' torque in three 100' stages following the correct order of tightening each headbolt. Always replace the headbolts, they are stretch bolts & shouldn't be reused, the bigger fear on an alloy block XU engine is stripping the thread in the block which is very common now due to the age of them. Timesert seems to be the favored method to avoid this now. g
  20. Which connector was corroded @brian j? Just for if someone else has the same problem out of the few of us also running mp3.1? g
  21. One corroded connector replaced. All is well with the world. Yay!!! thx all for the help.
  22. Hi all, Im having a clicking issue with my 205 Gti 1.6. I have changed the starter motor last weekend. Car was starting first crank and still is, its just sometimes it won't crank and makes a clicking noise from the starter motor. I thought maybe the solenoid wasn't working but it is brand new starter motor. I had the aa breakdown have a look at it and he believed it was a poor ground. He added a ground from engine block to negative on the battery to make sure starter was grounding properly, this has helped and has lowered the amount it clicks apposed to cracking over when attempting to start. But it still does do the clicking maybe every 1 in 5, looking online could it be the ignition barrel as the car does have a different key for ignition which would mean it's been changed once already. The car does also have a TOAD immobiliser, but that seems to be working ok. And if you keep it activated and try and crack you get nothing, not even a click. I have also had a look at loom as I was told blue wire 46B was ignition to starter motor , on this wire 2 more blue wires have been added, I guess for immobiliser? they are connected around the ignition Amplifier and head back into car with rest of loom towards the cpu/ immobiliser area. Any suggestions would be much appreciated? Thanks Oscar
  23. Hi I am about to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 1.9 MI16 aluminium engine and need some advice. Is there a workshop manual on this site. I have seen reference to "Peugeot Mi16 workshop manual" it but cant find it? What is the best torque settings for the head? There seems to be some variation looking at articles on Google. Is it best to replace cylinder head bolts or reuse them(risk of snapping/ stretching)? Anything to be wary of. Reason for work is low compression on 2 cylinders(distributer end) Any advice is welcome. Apologies if this is posted in the wrong group/section. Thanks Richard
  24. Hey all, Since three years I have a 205 Roland Garros with TU3m SPI. In the past year the engine began pulsing when idling. Sometimes the amplitude gets so high that the engine stalls. The problem seems to get worse under large electric load, e.g. all the lights and window heating on. So far, I have changed the sparkplugs, air filter, idle motor, coolant temp sensor, lambda. What is left is TPS (which is integral part of the throttle body), air temperature sensor and injector itself. To understand better what is happening, I've 'hacked' in the ECU by reading all analogue data with arduino (see the data in the image), however I cannot really make sense out of it. So you can see this oscillatory motion of rpms (blue line). When it reaches peak, the ECU reduces the injection time, when rpms start dropping, it increases the time again. Basically the two are perfectly in the opposite phases. The puzzling part for me is that TPS voltage is constant, which means a constant air intake, which also means that the ECU tries to control RPMs only with more or less fuel. The idle motor, as mentioned before, was replaced, and it is working. Furthermore, lambda values are also of a question. I understand, that it is usually the case that it is oscillating back and forth, because it is a narrow band sensor here, but I would expect maybe a smaller amplitude? Cause here it is doing the full swing. Also, when lambda is at peak (fuel rich), the ECU increases even more the injection time and then lambda drops, which with a constant throttle angle, should give an opposite effect. Is my understanding correct? Also, can anyone point me in the right direction what to check more? And why/how the electric load affects the engine work? Any insights/tips would be appreciated Thanks
  25. As I remember it, it primes the pump for a couple of seconds when the ignition is put on, then it supplies the pump whilst cranking using the starter supply, then if the engine fires and runs above a certain rpm it maintains a supply to the pump cutting out again if engine speed drops below that rpm: hence its name. If your ignition priming is intermittent it could be the relay, I think you can carefully open them up to inspect and I managed to revive mine with a good spray of proper electrical contact cleaner both inside and on the plug contacts. It limped on for best part of a year but ultimately I did have to bite the bullet and get a new one.
  26. stewal

    XS 1.4 - RPM needle shaking

    Nice looking car! I think your mechanic maybe right but it would be worth taking the cluster out and checking the plugs and connections first : proper electrical contact cleaner is always worth a try on the contacts surfaces and the plug pins.
  27. james_pug

    Any members in Ashford, Kent

    I've sent you a pm, your welcome to have a look over mine
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