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  2. The signal could be too weak for the amp to register it so it simply doesnt fire the coil. If the DWELL is set by the ECU and not by the built in amp maybe the weak signal is interpreted as a really short charge time and the coil can't fire.
  3. Today
  4. Richie-Van-GTi

    Omex 600 Tacho

    Thanks, i just checked with a multimeter and i have 12v on pin 1, good earth through pin 2, continuity back to the tacho driver on pin 3, cannot find what pin 4 goes to (wire 112b), i assume that went to the old ecu or tachy relay. Haynes doesnt show it. Still cannot get mine to work.
  5. Is this possible? Rewired my car from running a vw wasted spark coil with built in amplifiers to run a dual channel ign amp and peugeot wasted spark coil. It only ran on 2&3, 1&4 had no spark. Swapped wiring around to switch channels, the fault stayed on 1&4. Swapped coil wiring around and leads around, sure enough stayed in 1&4. Tried another brand new coil, no different. Probed the trigger wires from the ECU and while both behave the same in terms of pulsing, the magnitude of the pulse is around 30% greater on the 2&3 trigger than the 1&4 trigger. I am guessing the amp is therefore producing a much weaker signal for the 1&4 and is possibly not enough to fire the coil? I have tried new wires and terminals etc to rule out a resistance issue.
  6. lagonda

    Best driveshaft for 1.6 CTi?

    Hmm, bigger job (including actually sourcing the parts) than I want to do right now, I'm having enough trouble finding time to recommission the V12, and I've already spent too much time this year on the CTi! Checking out French GTi forums, they seem to favour 1.6 shafts from RCA (P130N) and SKF (VKJC4125) ... are these likely to be as good as or better than the GKN/Spidan/Loebro ones mentioned?
  7. Anthony

    Front Brake Knocking

    Basically, yes, remembering that the sliders being retracted into the carrier brings the caliper closer to the wheel spokes and is how it'll be with new pads/disks. If I recall the STDT/Gentry wheels are OK clearance wise, but always worth double checking anyway with a spin of the wheel through at least a full revolution. It's also worth remembering that just because one wheel fits, doesn't necessarily mean that the other will (e,g, Speedline vs non-Speedline 1.6 GTi alloy, or differing placement of wheel weights on 1.9 GTi wheels when running GTi-6 calipers).
  8. SRDT

    Front Brake Knocking

    You can grind the calipers a bit to clear 1.6 wheels, there is not much material to remove:
  9. Gohn

    Front Brake Knocking

    will do yeah base hubs and 1.9GTi disks thanks for the warning on caliper clearance have STDT/Gentry wheels do I just bolt the calipers onto the hubs, put the wheels back on and push it around to see if there's any fouling/scraping ?
  10. Leslie green

    Rear Beam Identifier

    Thanks lads will be looking at my axle soon but no idea what setting it is at ,car offroad 16 years but has lowering springs on front and had bottomed out at the rear as the underseal has a tyre pattern at the top of the arch worn down to the metal so too low but bumpstops were missing too.
  11. Anthony

    Front Brake Knocking

    Yes, far better IMO - just ensure that the sliders are in good condition and greased. If it's a TD, you're presumably running base model hubs and 1.9 GTi disks, correct? If so, you might find caliper clearance issues with some wheels, so check that before going too far - I know that the non-Speedline made 1.6 GTi alloys typically foul for example.
  12. this topic was actually pilfered.. originally raised by Jay (good job !) while rambling sideways from the quaife rack "knocking" topic thought I'd better put up a separate topic as I've experienced a few clunks from the brakes I've got the TD Bendix setup mentioned by anthony they work ok, pad wear is even but get the occasional manouvering noise the knock is especially when reversing/rolling downhill and dabbing the brakes looked everywhere suspecting the wishbone bushes or engine mounts or balljoints etc etc but everything was good so was at a loss until saw the above unrelated topic luckily I have a set of the Girling GTi calipers that came on the car, but were removed and set aside for the TD Bendix setup only have used the base model Bendix and TD Bendix setups previously now considering refurbing the Girling GTi calipers and sticking them on will it be worth the effort, are they gunna be much better ? thanks all
  13. Yesterday
  14. Gohn

    Rear Beam Identifier

    its surprising how often you need wood when working on a car ! tom's is an easier and cheaper solution as the one below was a bit of faffing mine's copied from PeterT from an earlier post somewhere salvaged the shock ends from the local metal scrappy, ID's M14 and M12 larger blank is outside 30mm square, smaller blank 25mm square, both 2mm thick x 280mm long only marked lengths 330mm to 310mm at 5mm intervals but its plenty for my use as I like original components and ride height others have better rigs with one shock end welded onto a threaded bar that way you can just screw it out or in to the desired length
  15. Tom Fenton

    Rear Beam Identifier

    By far the easiest way, should you know what ride height you want, is a piece of 2x3/4” timber with one 12mm hole and one 14mm hole drilled at the appropriate centres.
  16. Tom Fenton

    Quaife quick rack "knocking"

    I’ve thought about a number of times boring some Bendix alloy bodies out to accept a glacier bush on the slider bores to cure the knock. Like many of my bright ideas I’ve never actually got around to it.
  17. Ozymandis

    Quaife quick rack "knocking"

    Yes Anthony, the Bendix knockiness was why I tried a pair of the base Girlings, they are nothing like the 1.9 Girling, and are much worse than the Bendix. The slider pins are much smaller and they have a lot less surface area of alloy and wear very quickly leading to BANG`s, KNOCK`s , they squeal like a stuck pig ,until You fit the third iteration of the anti-squeal shims, which tilts the piston over in the bore, to apply force to just the leading or trailing edge of the friction material, I forget which. The Bendix are a delight in comparison.
  18. Leslie green

    Rear Beam Identifier

    Any pics of your dummy shock looking to make one for myself Gohn
  19. Leslie green

    Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

    Got another few jobs done . One of the bonnet bolts had snapped and a bolt head been welded in long ago , I'm not even sure it was in quite the right place ,I thought id grind it out and drill the snapped thread out , by the time id got the bolt of the metal behind was rotten so I cut the rot out and used a large penny washer to cover the hole with a nut welded to the back of it and another washer tacked on top to make it the right height again. , all the little spacers on the hinges were siezed solid and needed freeing off too. I wasn't happy with the repair I made before with cutting the lip of the passenger arch as with the metal being so thin it would be ground through very easily when sanded for paint so I made a new one in !mm steel and welded it in , much better as I knew one side folded and 1 side original would bother me later . I had a guy who was going to remove the rear glass but several weeks passed and he never got back to me so I did it myself today with a craft type knife , It was only cheap on I had lying around but it got the job done in an hour , you just need to be patient and not try and force the glass , Mt dad went and got me some pegs to use as wedges but by the time he was back from the local shop it was already just about out , I set the tailgate on 2 old sofa cushions and worked my way round several times . The trim was cut through in a lot of places and as it was stuck to the sealer cutting through it was always going to happen , another piece to add to the growing list of bits I need . IMG_20220805_140039 by Leslie, on Flickr IMG_20220805_160250 by Leslie, on Flickr IMG_20220808_134420 by Leslie, on Flickr IMG_20220811_114801 by Leslie, on Flickr
  20. 309jazzpanda

    Quaife quick rack "knocking"

    Thanks for the replies lads, I've got some niggles to go through with it but I'll pop the bronze bush back in. Just glad it isn't only myself getting this issue.
  21. Anthony

    Quaife quick rack "knocking"

    As above - while I've no experience of the Quaife rack, the standard PAS rack has a metal bush that wears and will eventually have sufficient play to be flagged on an MOT. I'm not sure if there's anything available now, but certainly there didn't appear to be replacements available when I looked a few years back. Would be easy enough to have one made though, but would be disappointing if that didn't last as Jay experienced above, particularly on a new and presumably unworn/blemished rack. That's odd, as the 1.6 GTi/TD Bendix setup - which I thought was identical to base models other than the wider pad carrier - is terrible for knocking and odd pad wear. No experience with the base model Girling stuff (only the 1.9 GTi Girling calipers, a quite different design but one that works and lasts very well IMO) so I can only conclude that it must be pretty dire if the Bendix stuff is an improvement!
  22. Ozymandis

    Quaife quick rack "knocking"

    Its a common knock, power rack bodies have a bronze bush and it always starts to knock after a while, I made a bespoke bush , and that also knocked after a while. Dont worry about it, Its a fobile of these old sheds. The worst thing like this is base model Girling front calipers, the clack and bang as Your setting off, stopping or reversing direction feels like the TCA bushes are knocking, thankfully every other base setup I have has Bendix, far less susceptible to it.
  23. Gohn

    Rear Beam Identifier

    dummy shock fixed to what it was supposed to be, now 1xM12 end and 1xM14 end dropped it 5mm from 325 to 320mm slotted the torsion bars, L then R measured up and the ride height dropped by 15mm ! thanks all for the tips
  24. Gohn

    Drivers window stuck down

    bummer, lucky you're in drought then the 205 electric windows are super reliable the only trouble I've ever had with them is a few buttons which fail after twenty plus years, but you've already ruled that out have heard that the slider rails can wear out (removing your door card for an inspection might reveal what's going on) or your motor could be toast (they can burn out if you keep pressing once the window is full up/down so go gently) an owner with first hand of either or both will know more
  25. Hi everyone, My drivers electric window has decided to get stuck fully open. I have swapped the switches to check if this was at fault but still no movement. When I press the switch (up or down) you can hear the window motor click but no movement at all. Has anyone experienced this issue before? I am guessing it could be the motor that needs replacing or maybe they just get jammed? I seem to recall it happening once before years ago but can't remember what I did to fix it. Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks,
  26. Last week
  27. Why don't you just put a 205 gti axle back on
  28. Mot passed last week, delighted. All going well so far - Anthony was right about the sl434s with 309 axle, have caught the back arches a couple times and pushed them out in the centre. Question is do I try and trim the arch return and see if that makes any difference or just put 1.9 speedlines back on for peace of mind Going to run the engine in on some millers cro 10w40 for ~150 miles then swap for some 10w40 cfs and go for mapping ! Heres some pics of her out and about
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