1.9 Gti Nos

[Gibbo GTI 0]

If your wanting to run over 40bhp increase with the nitrous you'll have to either go for a direct port setup or change the inlet. With the standard GTI engines having an upswept inlet manifold there is an issue with fuel dropout when running the larger jets.

[DanteICE 72]

Nitrous Oxide or N2O, is an inert gas, meaning its like diesel really, it doesn't burn as such, more combust. So its not actually the nitrous that damages your engine, it the install or to be more specific lack of additional fuel (petrol or diesel). If I was ever to build a Nitrous kit for my car it would definately use the solenoids from Wizards of NOS, as you guys have meantioned really, Trevor (WON owner) is a drag strip king and has been building nitrous oxide kits for a long time, he is only just starting to pull away from the US competition, even though he invented better ways to nitrous engines before the big US nitrous companies cottoned on to the ideas. However being a small UK company could not release his inventions until the market was ready. Also as mentioned the solenoids are made by his company and have an amazing longevity record not to be ignored.

 

As for nitrous'ing an engine, the great thing about nitrous is that the nitrogen in N20 acts like a buffer for detonation and prevents it from occuring, so a low and accurate amount of nitrous can easy an engines wear quite dramatically.

 

It is almost a requirement that a full throttle micro-switch is fitted to make sure that Nitrous is only injected at full throttle or lack of fuel can occur and cause damage to the engine.

 

When adding nitrous to an unmodified engine, it should be able to handle 50bhp fixing power in otherwords a direct full on shot of nitrous measuring 50bhp's worth. But with a progressive nitrous controller should easily cope with between 75 - 100bhp of nitrous power.

 

Another common fault with DIY nitrous installs is that the lie the cylinder on the floor or the wrong way round and limit the amount of N20 that can be released making the user feel that it has run out, way before its even near empty.

[pip470 61]

Nitrous is nothing like diesel, its not even a fuel, its an oxidizer. It doesnt burn or combust, it seperates into its key components nitrogen and oxygen at 565 degrees (no problem in the combustion chamber) the nitrous is also supplied with the extra fuel too like you have said, and if you can burn more fuel now you have the extra oxygen you make more power/torque. In very simple terms.

[DanteICE 72]

Nitrous is nothing like diesel, its not even a fuel, its an oxidizer. It doesnt burn or combust, it seperates into its key components nitrogen and oxygen at 565 degrees (no problem in the combustion chamber) the nitrous is also supplied with the extra fuel too like you have said, and if you can burn more fuel now you have the extra oxygen you make more power/torque. In very simple terms.

 

I didn't mean in its properties, I just meant that it doesn't burn on its own, comparing it to diesel. Sorry about that.

[jamiej 0]

NOS has been put on hold for the moment, job, uni etc etc ... but im getting back on it again. All i need to do now is get some jets for the system (gonna use dellorto 1486 jets, tapped into the solenoid fittings) then the electronics.

 

Once (if at all) its done, i'll let you guys know the results.

 

And to add to the above, the addition of Nitrous, is essentially a "charged" addition to the breathing of the car, much like a turbo. The N20 provides extra O2 that the engine can use (with the fuel) to create more power. Thats my understanding. And the fact that its soooo bloody cold, it does help reduce the knocking due to pre ignition.

 

More Air, allows more Fuel, which ultimately means more POWER !

 

If i jet the fuel too much, the lack of petrol could essentailly melt my engine, it relies on the fuel for cooling, so if the fuel jet is not correct, it will lean out and start melting things !!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I had a WON system on my MG, got it fitted by a authorised dealer who needs to do a full test on the engine first as they have a limit of cylinder pressure leak before they will start any install, in other words they will make sure your engine can handle the system

 

i wouldn't recomment fittin nitrous without a progressive controller, you can set it to what % level to kick in at and then the seconds it takes to build to 100% feed, this stops a massive hit which will blow your internals to bits

 

WON will start you on 25bhp jets an recommend to do a bottle with then upgrade to the level they say, new lets were like 12 quid i think

 

definitely worth it thou but get it done properly

[jamiej 0]

Thanks for that Wardy,

i could do a leak check myself, could you tell me what the limit of safety was.

I was hoping to start with a 25 then move to 40 max, should be more than enough. A progressive controller would be sicko but they are mega money, so i dont think its an option i could take. Unless i get one of my mates to write a programme which stepped the nitrous flow if you know what i mean.

[SurGie 54]

My understanding is thats true of all solenoids except the WON ones which are actually unique.

 

http://www.noswizard.com/cad_drawings/sol_comparison.jpg

 

 

Hi, this link does not work.

[base-1 17]

If i jet the fuel too much, the lack of petrol could essentailly melt my engine, it relies on the fuel for cooling, so if the fuel jet is not correct, it will lean out and start melting things !!!

How is ambient temperature fuel is going to cool down liquid nitrous oxide?

 

Hi, this link does not work.

Helpful post! Go to the noswizard site and a single mouse click provides you with the technical section:

 

 

 

There's also top views of each one but they're probably too large to post on here

 

Highpower Solenoids VS. Nitrous Express (NX) Solenoids

 

# Exploded HP Solenoid

# Exploded NX Solenoid

# HP Solenoid Top View

# NX Solenoid Top View

 

Starting at the body

The Stainless body of a conventional solenoid weighs nearly 3 times the amount of an HP Pulsoid body. The flow path through a conventional solenoid body causes the gas to change direction 3 times in total. In HP Pulsoids the gas only changes direction once. The fewer the changes in flow direction the more flow you achieve through the unit, making it more efficient. The machining inside a conventional solenoid body (that creates the flow path) is course and very disruptive to flow. This has been designed/machined without any regard to flow and as a consequence will not only cause bad flow but inconsistent flow between solenoids. The machining inside the HP Pulsoid is of a very high quality (as can be seen in the photos) and has no adverse effects on the flow of nitrous or fuel.

 

The Seat

The seats used in all conventional solenoids are made from stainless steel, which has an irregular and sharp molecular structure. This 'rough' material is erroneously matched with a contrasting 'soft' plunger seal, which results in wear and damage. Machining can't change the physics of a material, so no matter how smooth the steel seems it will still harm the seal.

 

The HP seat is made from a thermo plastic material which has a spherical molecular structure, similar to the material used for the seal. Because they both have smooth molecular structures neither part will ever wear and in fact polish each other with use.

 

The Plunger

Most plungers are machined to an acceptable standard and are made from suitable materials.

The plunger seal material used in most solenoids is PTFE, which although seals well, suffers from particle impregnation and retention. The debris digs into the material and stays there, which eventually causes leakage. The companies who sell these solenoids are aware of the problem and offer re-conditioning kits, however it's too late and too little when you've had an engine failure as a consequence of the solenoid leak that could have been prevented by a better design.

 

The HP Pulsoid uses a unique material, which due to its molecular structure does not wear and actually rejects particles meaning leak free long life operation. As a consequence we do not offer a reconditioning kit for them.

 

The spring

The spring used in conventional solenoids will obviously do its job but as it's an external spring (which needs a bigger chamber to house it), there will be more vaporisation of the nitrous liquid into gas as it passes through the solenoid.

The HP Pulsoid is fitted with an internal spring, which means the size of the chamber is small, so it's not a problem.

 

The plunger tube/housing.

The plunger tubes in conventional solenoids are made from 3 separate parts that are friction welded together. The friction weld plays a big part in solenoid wear and seizures. The welding process causes the bore to distort, consequently as the solenoid is opened and closed the plunger rubs on the distorted parts of the bore and causes magnetic steel particles to break off. The problem is that these steel particles are then magnetized to the plunger and eventually cause the plunger to seize in the tube/housing. This situation is aggravated by the very close plunger to bore tolerance used in such solenoid designs.

The HP Pulsoid has a UNIQUE plunger tube/housing which is an integral part of the billet alloy body (which you can see on the photograph) and doesn't require any welding. The material used is aluminium so if for any reason wear occurred, the particles produced would not be magnetic and would be carried out of the solenoid by the flow of nitrous, etc. The bore to plunger clearance is enough for the plunger to float centrally within the magnetic field without making any contact between the 2 parts. However even if they were to make contact, aluminium is a very good bearing material and thanks to the very smooth machining of the internal bore, wear is still unlikely to be of any consequence.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I honestly cant remember what it was mate this was years ago sorry, try goin on the WON site and getting the number of one of the authorised fitters, i used a guy in coventry an im sure he would tell u

 

i really would recomment a progressive controller, more so for being a standard engine like i had, i think its the minimax or somethin like that, im sure they weren't too expensive, a couple hundred quid but a must in my eyes oh and it looks great in the car!

 

good luck mate you'll have great fun