[engine_work] 2.1 S16 Build Diary

[Doof 11]

Im sure you're right Sandy, the head could well be crap and reduce power, theres no way of knowing until its on. Thing is, it was cheap enough and worth a shot considering i dont have to fart around getting my head rebuilt.

 

I suppose, thinking about it, i'd be amazed if it was worse than the standard head. The lip between seat and throat was really quite big, the amount of turbulance i would imagine that to cause would almost certainly hinder the flow potential. This new head is amazingly smooth in its transition and isn't polished which i believe to be a good sign.

 

Time will tell im sure, hopefully i'll know in about 6 weeks time!

[Doof 11]

And so the wiring fun begins. The engine is now out (Anyone want a 1.6 engine rebuild 60k ago?) and the wiring is in a nice mess.

 

The only wire im not really sure about is number 46. It appears to come from the small brown plug under the dash (which i believe comes from the fuse board) out to a connection with 4 other blue wires. From here one goes to a twin plug that i forgot to label, the other pin of which is connected to the injector loom (a bunch of cream wires). The blue wire "46" also heads off to the brown multiplug under the bonnet, but i dont know what this connected to...i suspect the starter motor.

 

Which begs the question, why is the starter motor connected to the injector loom and ultimately the tach relay?

 

I'm wondering whether to just make my own sensor loom up, its not a massive amount of wires!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I'm wondering whether to just make my own sensor loom up, its not a massive amount of wires!

 

I made up my own sensor loom, and you're right, it's a few wires and it makes all the wiring easier to understand. However the brown multiplugs contain a combination of sensor wires (ie they just say what the engine is doing; dials & guages etc) PLUS essential wires for running such as switched live (which turns ECU on), starter solenoid wire & fuel pump/tachy relay wire. You shouldn't need the tachy relay with a standard Mi ECU anyway.

 

I got some 2nd hand brown plugs (phase 1.5) from Miles - 1 x 6 pin & 1 x 9 - and made up a new 'sensor' loom with fresh wires, soldering and heatshrinking each one.

 

Your own loom is a bonus in the end, but it's alot of planning, understanding and graft.

[Doof 11]

Cheers sarty, i'm just glad i didn't go down the MS route now i'm looking at "all" these wires. I can only imagine yours being much more difficult!

 

The only wire im not sure about is 46B from the 6 pin plug under the dash. My above discription was a bit rubbish so im armed with more info:

 

46b comes from the end pin on the 6 pin under dash plug. Its thicker than most and i believe is the starter solenoid wire. From this plug is goes out through the bulkhead and joins with 3 other wires before continuing on to pin 5 of the horrible under bonnet plug, i believe from there it goes to the starter.

 

what confuses me is the 3 connected wires...

1- 46a (the starter motor, not on any diagrams i've seen on here)

2 - a wire with no number!

3 - A wire that goes and connects to a two pin plug, the other side of which joins with every injector!!

 

What is going on with number 46!

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

46B is (or certainly should be) the starter solenoid wire, I've no idea why it goes to the tachymetric relay either but it does & also to the SAD.

 

Maybe its just for an initial 12v signal to the tachy relay & to close the SAD (I don't believe the SAD has permanent power when the car is running after dicovering this).

 

You should be able to get your wiring done in a week or so now easily.

 

Graham.

[Sandy 189]

The reason it goes to the Tachy relay is to power up the fuel pump and injectors on start up. The Tachy relay output is normally is connected when there's a pulse from the coil, but during cranking it needs something stronger, provided by the starter connection.

[Doof 11]

After a bit of cleaning up ready for some rust removal its currently looking like this:

 

 

Just in talks with Sandy and Sam about some steel rods and crank. Also got an XU10J4R alloy sump on its way. I've decided to use PeterT's stage 1 inlet cam on the exhaust side and i've opted for a billet Stage 3 Cam with the following spec:

 

Advertised Duration 272

Duration @ 0.050” 236

Maximum Lift 0.448"

 

Hopefully the steel bottom end will allow me to rev the engine to where the cam really starts to work up the top end...just hope this doesn't ruin the bottom end.

 

Just need to get shenpar to stop what they're doing with the current crank and rods!

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

The reason it goes to the Tachy relay is to power up the fuel pump and injectors on start up. The Tachy relay output is normally is connected when there's a pulse from the coil, but during cranking it needs something stronger, provided by the starter connection.

I did think this but then questioned it becaue surely it also gets a feed from wire 32a when its cranking via the coil power doesn't it?

 

Lewis, I thought you were skint? Steel rods & crank (or is it a diesel crank? ), doesn't speak skint to me.

 

Graham.

[Sandy 189]

I think 32A just supplies the power, not the "command". If 32A was "command", the pump would run all the time the ignition's on.

[Doof 11]

I've now gone from skint, to positively pikey!!

 

Its cold beans for the next 6 months for me now i've gone and done this!

 

Sandy, did you get my PM about giving me a call to discuss the crank/rods...just wanted to ask a few questions. It seems Shenpar haven't yet started balancing my other crank / rods so i can go for these.

[taylorspug 7]

What sort of revs are you planning on running? Presumably you will now be speccing solid lifters too if you are going for mega revs?

[Doof 11]

Yea thats been playing on my mine. The hydraulic lifters are good to what? about 8k? Or does it depends on the cam profile?

 

I might just leave it on hydraulics for now and then if i fancy more power i can go down the solid lifter route and get some bodies on it. I've already had to sell 3 kidneys for this and sold lifters must be another few hundred quid right?

 

Thing is, it needs to stay drivable on the road, more than just drivable really as its my daily driver!

[Sandy 189]

I'll give you a call tomorrow probably, it's been a bit hectic today and I'm a bit fumed out from mapping!

[Doof 11]

Got the nice new maniflow exhaust from miles the other day, just lacking an engine to actually put it on!

 

 

Also got a dastek unichip the other day, although to be honest im not sure if im best off using that or just getting chip wizards to remap the standard ECU...anyone got any experience of either?

 

Also, I got my 306 loom the other day...and it was only a couple of days prior to that i was talking to pugtorque saying how easy the wiring was...i've changed my mind!! The 306 loom has about 400 plugs of all shapes and sizes...how on earth do i figure out what connects to what!!! am i going to have to peel back all the wrapping on the loom so i can find wiring numbers?

Edited May 26, 2008 by Doof

[carbers205 1]

What 306 is it from mate?

Ive got an xsi and know what pretty much all the connectors do if thats any use!

 

Andy

[Doof 11]

Its from a GTI-6, not sure how similar it all is...

[carbers205 1]

Get some pics up mate, Im sure there are enough of us on here with 306 engines to work out whats what!

[Doof 11]

I'm really not too sure how helpful you'll be able to be with just pictures, its always hard to get a feel for things i find. Still, anything will help me out so i'll really appreciate any help!

 

Heres probably the most useful:

 

I gather that:

 

D - connector in a silver heat shielding must be something to do with the lambda sensor? other connector unknown

B - Connectors to everything under the dash, Is it possible to get the other ends of these connectors from pug or something, i could make up the internal wiring and just plug into these which would be neat.

 

And theres more here in larger res - http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v699/doo...20Build/Wiring/

 

Any help anyone offers is seriously appreciated, i really couldn't do any of this without the help of people on this forum!

 

Lewis

[carbers205 1]

Ok thats quite different from my xsi!

So, Ill go with what I know....B doesnt connect to the dash, at least not directly. It originally goes to the passenger wheelarch where the alarm unit is, I imagine it then goes to the bloody great multiplug in the scuttle under the wiper motor in the 306 which is then connected behind the dash.

C is a vac pipe so that hose should connect to the throttle body.

D I dont think is lambda, the gti6 has one connector with 4 wires for is, that white plug looks like only 2.

In fact now I look closer E is much more likely to be the lambda in one of those.

So on that basis D will prob be the speed sender which will plug into the gearbox by the drivers side driveshaft.

A goes to the throttle body area, most of the plugs will be self explanatory once you get there, will also include oil pressure switch I think. It also has a connector to the starter motor.

The little clump under A looks like its got both coolant temp sensors in it (green and blue) for the back of the head, should have crank sensor there too and possibly oil level sender.

The injectors are in pairs, black with purple insides for the connectors, and the 4 coils are obvious enough.

Should get you started at least. Its a lot easier once the loom is in situ as it becomes more obvious where you should be looking for the connectors!

 

Andy

[taylorspug 7]

Right from what i can see:

 

A- Various engine connections, ECU temp, coolant temp/light, fan swich. Best thing to do here is get a wiring diagram or the pin data for the 2 multiplugs and cut out what you dont need (which is a fair bit!). Tbh i cant really see what is there for sure.

 

B- Multiplugs. You will only need switched live, fuel pump, rev counter from these (so 3 wires total). Also the k-light wire is in there if you feel like connecting it. Depending on where/how you cut the loom, make sure the lambda sensor has a switched live, its a bridged connection in the loom. Rest of the wires can be cut away.

 

C- Carbon cannister i think? Cant really see? If it is get rid of it, not needed.

 

D- Even though i cant quite see it, this is usually the VSS plug, which connects to the dual output speed sensor on the gearbox (where the speedo cable plugs in). Its got the heat shield material on it because it sits right next to the exhaust manifold.

 

E- The bigger connection here is for the double relay which livens up the whole loom. The smaller plug with the slide-lock type connector is for the lambda sensor.

 

Think thats all right. And if its not my excuse is its late and im tired.

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

Sorry to back peddle slightly here but i saw this pic

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/doo...ld/DSC00023.jpg

 

and it got me thinking, is it worth/safe cutting the valve guides like that, ive got a ported mi16 head which is fitted but needs to come back off, so it may be somthing i should do....

 

Paul

[Doof 11]

About time for an update, its been far too long since the last bit of real progress!!

 

Anyway, things seem to have twisted and turned and the final spec is nothing like the original post, all this has taken time to get the parts and make the decisions so its been a bit slow.

 

I've decided against remapping the standard ECU due to the cost and limitations. Instead i'm going to be running Megasquirt II Extra, prepared by Mad Professor (if you want a MS, get in touch with him, a weath of knowledge and very helpful!) and mapped by Sandy.

 

I'm still toying with the idea of throttle bodies but in reality i think it'll have enough power and an LSD is more important, just wether i can afford it!

 

I'm also going to be using an 88mm steel crank and the rods will be crank located, which, is Nicks engine is anything to go by, should help with surge!

 

In the meantime, heres a couple of pics of my newly painted engine bay, finally got round to doing it and i'm amazing at the results using an Aldi air compressor!

 

 

Hopefully should have the final few parts meaning it'll be assembled in about 3 weeks ready for wiring

[Sam 4]

I've PM'd you about the sump and crank. Just need your address for the sump.

[Doof 11]

So this weekend was to be a weekend of progress with loads happening. I've receieved my MS2 ECU courtesy of Mad Professor with pre-made loom all labelled up, i've got my innovate O2 sensor and a Kaaz plate diff...and I even just collected my engine after balancing, reboring to 87mm etc.

 

Theres one problem though that i can see...can you spot it?

 

 

Shameless pics of goodies:

 

I'm so annoyed, seems i've got to spin the pistons round, which means taking the crank etc out...might get the rods shot peened while its apart again!

[Sandy 189]

Ooops!!