309 Gti Beam

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

Where is your torsion bar stuck in?

 

Getting them out of a radius arm is pretty easy once the offset washer is removed.

 

Only problem you'll have is setting the ride height the same on both sides if one torsion bar is stuck in the radius arm & the other is free at both ends.

 

The 309 beam centre tube, torsion & anti-roll bars are all longer than the 205 ones by approx 50mm iirc.

 

Graham.

 

 

its stuck in where the offset washer washer, cant remove it at all, used a punch to punch it out, no sucess, so i cant used the 309 arb, and torsion bars on my 1.6 205 beam then if 50mm longer?

 

also took the stud axles off today, to grease the bearings and clean them up, not i cant get the nut back on, as i when i hammered it the stub axle must have deformed on the top, another thing fooked, tell you what im so mad,nearly chucked the axle through the hedge.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

its stuck in where the offset washer washer, cant remove it at all, used a punch to punch it out, no sucess

If the offset washer is out, the torsion bar will come free from the radius arm with some persuasion.

 

so i cant used the 309 arb, and torsion bars on my 1.6 205 beam then if 50mm longer?

no, they simply won't fit both ends of the splines.

 

also took the stud axles off today, to grease the bearings and clean them up, not i cant get the nut back on, as i when i hammered it the stub axle must have deformed on the top, another thing fooked, tell you what im so mad,nearly chucked the axle through the hedge.

You don't need to take the stub axles out to grease the bearings, the hub will pull free from the stub axle once the hubnut is undone with a bit of force.

 

You aren't the first to mushroom the end of the stub axle, I've done it myself but thankfully with careful use of a file I managed to clean the ends up so they could be re-used. Ever since then I've used a soft alloy drift to drive them out or a press when I been swapping radius arm shafts over.

 

Graham.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

If the offset washer is out, the torsion bar will come free from the radius arm with some persuasion.

 

no, they simply won't fit both ends of the splines.

You don't need to take the stub axles out to grease the bearings, the hub will pull free from the stub axle once the hubnut is undone with a bit of force.

 

You aren't the first to mushroom the end of the stub axle, I've done it myself but thankfully with careful use of a file I managed to clean the ends up so they could be re-used. Ever since then I've used a soft alloy drift to drive them out or a press when I been swapping radius arm shafts over.

 

Graham.

 

 

yeah but the bearings wouldnt budge, plus the bearings are meant to come apart ot clean them arnt they are the front big came out and the read along with the rear seal.

 

shame i cant used the 309 arb and torsion bar setup, for my 1.6 beam, what if i got the cut and rewelded. ?

 

the stub axleso of the threads looks as they have rounded, but im sure i could get by this, i have another stub axle buts its longer, as it was from a zx, gather this chouldnt be used..

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

The bearings are mean't to be sealed & greased for life but usually will come apart when you try to remove the hub so you can grease them.

 

I wouldn't even consider trying to cut & reweld them, the localised heat from welding them back together would effect the heat treatment they received when new so it would be very dangerous imo.

 

Disc brake stub axles can only be used with rear discs, the stub axle from a drum brake beam is a different length (shorter iirc).

 

You are supposed to over tighten the rear wheel bearing when you re-fit the stub axle to make sure they are fully seated home in the radius arm unless you have access to a hydraulic press to refit them. (250lbft iirc, then loosen & re-torque to the correct amount 160lbft).

 

Graham.

[mfield 20]

Rethreading the torsion bar could be difficult imo, they are heat treated so the thread will be tough & you could risk snapping a tap if you cross thread them.

 

I would advise using a thread restorer instead of a tap, much easier than risking it

 

http://www.amazon.com/Master-SAE-Metric-Th...r/dp/B000I1952A

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

sorted my stub axle threads bought a new bolt and it made rethreads, and how while gripping on with mole grips, did i bit of damage to the splines, but its all goes in fine, is it right in thinking the splines on the stube axle are slightley tapered? look at the trialing arm they must be as there is harding any full splines compared with the stub axle, strange as it tight fit.

 

any how m happy now i dont need to buy a stub axle.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

In all the beams I've ever stripped if the radius arm shaft is stuck in the beam tube & the arm comes off the shaft when you try to seperate them, the centre tube is beyond economical repair.

 

I've never heard of anyone getting the radius arm shaft out & the centre tube still being worthy of re-using.

 

£300 only gets the centre tube with bearings & seals etc but no radius arms.

 

If the radius arm shafts from your old beam are dead you still have another £100+ to get a new beam but that doesn't include torsion bars etc either.

 

Graham.

 

well mate i got it out, and no damage to the tube the baering was broken up, but the top lineing of the bearing still intacted, so that has saved the tube. sweet hey

[SurGie 54]

Hi,

 

Iv looked for ages and didnt find anything, hope someone can help with this query

 

My 309 beam has about 1mm deep scratches in between the two sets of bearings on one side of beam, there are about 7-12

of them going in the circular motion of the beam.

Will it cause any damage?

The beam has just been reconditioned and has had new sleeve's welded in underneith the bearings then rebored to match

the shaft.

Is this a good method of reconditioning the beam?

 

Thanks for reading.

[SurGie 54]

Hi,

 

Iv looked for ages and didnt find anything, hope someone can help with this query

 

My 309 beam has about 1mm deep scratches in between the two sets of bearings on one side of beam, there are about 7-12

of them going in the circular motion of the beam.

Will it cause any damage?

The beam has just been reconditioned and has had new sleeve's welded in underneith the bearings then rebored to match

the shaft.

Is this a good method of reconditioning the beam?

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Hi everyone, can anyone help me with this problem?

Before i put the beam together.

Any help on this is appreciated