Houston ........ We Have A Problem

[tom_m 0]

baz just got a set, not sure if he's used them yet.

[vickiw106 1]

the trouble of moving the dropping the engine is that you may put certain strains and stresses on you drives that are not meant to be there.

 

manufactures put engine in certain places so there is less strain on mechanical parts.

 

with all that torque through a drive shaft that is already under unnecessary stress will only end in disaster

[welshpug 1,620]

I wouldn't have thought lowering the engine would cause any problems whatsoever as long as the shaft doesn't come into contact with the subframe.

 

its the same as lowering a car, the shafts are under a less extreme angle and IMO are under less stress.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

As I was saying to garry the other day, Lowering the engine increases the risk of cracking the sump, Even in the std position at the back of the Alloy sumps you see scraping so lowering it even more is asking for trouble with all the speed bump's around these days

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Remove the bonnet sound deadening, that will help. . . . . . .a bit.

Edited February 27, 2008 by Edp

[Garry 1]

Thanks for the responces guys, I now have a plan of action.

 

Rich_W from the 306gti6 forum (the guy who designed and made the kit) is going to modify the manifold by reducing the inlet tracts by 20mm or so. I will then see where we are with clearance and try cutting the O/S bracing from the bonnet, if that doesn't work I will try the auto bonnet that I am getting of Dr Sarty. If it still doesn't clear I will look into lowering the engine.

 

For your info, I have removed the insulation from the bonnet, although it is only about 1-2mm thick, if you look at the pictures the N/S wing to bonnet gap is much closer as the manifold is touching the underside of the bonnet skin. On the O/S the manifold is catching on the bracing.

 

The manifold is going for modification tonight and should be ready for Easter when I plan to spend the weekend fitting it and getting it running! Ready for Spa and the Ring on May 10th.

[Spiky 37]

as above i used rs 2000 escort mount

 

vibratech do a harder version, which i might buy

 

http://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/parts/part...ails.asp?id=306

[easypug 0]

Hello Garry, Just wondered what you were doing about the Aux belt routing? Will you be running PAS off the pump or looking into another belt?

[Garry 1]

I have been playing around with this and the only way to do it is following Rich's exact layout, with the power steering pump and auto tensioner. I did think about running from the crank to the charger then on the return pick up the alternator, thus not needing the tensioner or the pump pulley. But the bolts that hold the Super charger bracket foul on the belt.

 

I was going to use a power steering pump and fill it with fluid but connet the outlet to the inlet, as I am not sure if the fuid is needed for lubrication or colling. This will reult in the power steering fuid just circulating the pump.

[easypug 0]

Yeah thats what i was going to do also, but i have now decided to try and squeeze the power steering in also. If I don't like it with PS then i'll think up a new solution after that and go from there. Space is going to be really tight at the best of times but i'm sure i'll be able to work some thing out.

[Issam 0]

going to modify the manifold by reducing the inlet tracts by 20mm or so.

What kind of power output are you tuning for?

[welshpug 1,620]

Low boost versions of this setup (same charger, inlet restrictor and std engine 8psi) are running 260 BHP and more torque low down than the high boost conversions that are running a comfortable 400 BHP (forged low comp pistons+rods for 8.0-1 ratio , no restrictor, 17-20 psi peak boost)

[Issam 0]

Low boost versions of this setup (same charger, inlet restrictor and std engine 8psi) are running 260 BHP and more torque low down than the high boost conversions that are running a comfortable 400 BHP (forged low comp pistons+rods for 8.0-1 ratio , no restrictor, 17-20 psi peak boost)

You guys did the calculations on the runner lengths?

[whizzer71 0]

Sorry to hijack,what management is recomemded for this set up ?,and what does it all cost looks VERY appealing to me ,I prefer the way the 306's drive and sit on the road (I think I must be getting old ).

 

Tris

 

[easypug 0]

It runs on standard magagment which has gets remapped. I think Rich quotes some thing like around 3.5k for the low boost and around 5k for the high boost.

 

The compression of the high boost conversion I believe is 9.1:1

[Garry 1]

I think you will be lucky to spend just that on the conversion, because as you start pulling bits off the car you will uncover a few 'other' jobs!

 

The runner lengths have been calculated by the kit designer, Rich_w over on the GTI6 forum. To fit into a 205 they need shortening, as it is under boost we didn't think it would make too much difference to the overall performance.

[TEKNOPUG 3]

Just raise the bonnet up on 4 blocks and use bonnet pins in each corner to secure. No disrespect Garry, but your car is hardly stock concours in appearance – it’s a track slag. I really wouldn’t worry too much about losing the stealth. Function over form – go for the easiest, cheapest, most efficient option. Or even just cut out a hole from the bonnet and fit a Scooby scoop or such like. As Alistair said, most people are only gonna see the back of the car anyway

[whizzer71 0]

So on the low boost option does the remapped Ecu come with the "kit" or do you then have to get that sorted afterwards by some body else,any web links / pages on the product ?

 

[Anton green 12 1 Cars]

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Rich...Ti/_JL36837.jpg

 

By the pic I am not sure if the bonnet will clear the air intake and other components towards the front of the engine once the airbox inlets have been shortenned. It is very close now however and I would say it could beclose to shutting if you could remove the under bonnet matting and chop out the strengthener bracing, then slacken off the bonnet-securing-bolts at the rear of the engine and see how close to getting it down it is.

A bonnet like the one which magnum do would help all round imo

Edited March 18, 2008 by cybernck
huge image

[easypug 0]

So on the low boost option does the remapped Ecu come with the "kit" or do you then have to get that sorted afterwards by some body else,any web links / pages on the product ?

 

 

You have to get it mapped seprately, have a look on 306gti6.com in the for sale thread and a topic named supercharger group buy. Everything has been discussed about the conversion on there all be it going into a 306. Garry is the first to fit the kit into a 205.

[welshpug 1,620]

Rich_W has a copy of the Low boost map ready to be flashed onto your ECU to save going for a full blown (lol ) remap.

[Sam 4]

9:1 could take some good boost. I thought low boost was standard compression which is ~10:1 isn't it?

[welshpug 1,620]

low boost is circa 8psi @ 10.4/1 for a good 260BHP, High boost is 17psi peak @ 8.0/1 for Circa 400bhp.

[easypug 0]

9:1 could take some good boost. I thought low boost was standard compression which is ~10:1 isn't it?

 

9.1 is for the high boost, which IIRC is 21psi or there abouts. Low boost runs standard CR.

[welshpug 1,620]

dude! its 8-1!

 

Lynx low boost spec+pricelist

 

High Boost Conversion spec+pricelist

 

details of the kit the following thread -

 

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...9404&page=1

 

write up on the first low boost conversion to be completed -

 

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...5259&page=1

 

 

how's progress Garry?