1.9 Swaping A 1.1 In A Cj 205

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Hello to everyone.

 

My name is Andrew and I am from Romania.

 

I have a 1.1 litre 205 CJ and i swaped the old 1.1 with a 405SRi 1.9 litre XU9JAZ engine.

 

Unfortunately for me I had to make a lot of adjustments.....for the new engine.

Now I have some questions:

1. Do 1.9 XU9JAZ engines have a tachymetric relay - what does this look like and where is it connected?

2. I found 3 wires near the 2 relays cut and i don`t know where to link them to, one is from ECU pin 5 -

CFSV: t1 ignition on nbv

engine running 0 to nbv

the second one is number 16 injector pulse, cyls 1&2: t1

and the third one is from one of the relays....its a grey thin wire.

3. Also i don`t know wich wires from the ecu go to the water temp sensor, and wich one is the ecu`s water sensor.

4. Where can I link the tachometer so that it would work (on the old engine I didn`t have one but on this one I want to put one)

5. The 405 had an engine imobiliser... do i need the original key and ignition switch or i can bypass that? (I have a free 3 pin conector from the ecu near the batery - i supose it`s for the engine imobiliser?)

6. Does the lambda sensor have dedicated conectors? because i have 2 pairs of blue and black conectors free and i don`t know where to connect them all.

 

Thats all for now....need help - i want to start the car by the end of the week.

Edited May 13, 2007 by eu_andreiutz

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Someone?

 

Also I found the wires from the SAD....wich go in the car and not in the ecu?

Trying to fiind the tachyrelay....I couldn`t find it`s socket either.....so i`ll keep searching.

Need help fast, I would like to start the car by friday hopefully...

 

Cheers

[eu_andreiutz 0]

HELP!!!

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

The 405 will have a tachymetric relay(brown) fitted, if you are using the 405 loom it should be inside the black relay box along with the injection supply(green or black) relay afaik.

 

The wires for the ecu temp sender (usually a blue two pin plug), one of them should come from pin 45 on the ecu plug & the return should ring through ecu plug pin 30 which is common to the throttle switch & injection coding resistor afaik.

 

Was the immobiliser poart of the prioginal Peugeot fitment or an aftermarket non standard one? If it was part of the Peugeot fit then was it a keypad immobilser or a transponder one?

 

If it was either of these you will most likely need a suitable unlocked ecu or to refit the loom & everything to the donor car to unlock this one & disconnect the ecu plug when the immobilser has been dis-armed.

 

The wires for the SAD don't come from the ecu either, one wire is part of the starter solenoid feed & the other runs to the injection coding resisitor.

 

The water temp sender guage doesn't have anything to do with the ecu & uses a different sender completely.

 

The lambda sensor plugs will be master keyed so they can't be crossed afaik, the other blue & black plug could be the ecu temp sensor plug & the SAD one.

 

Graham,.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Should the tachy relay be in here?

http://www.99poze.ro/Peugeot_205_conversion/1/

Where are this sensors from?

http://www.99poze.ro/Peugeot_205_conversion/2/

So the lambda wires are master keyed but wich wires go to the dash?

I have two sensors under the sad.....but none of them has a 2 pin plug....only one pin...

 

If it was either of these you will most likely need a suitable unlocked ecu or to refit the loom & everything to the donor car to unlock this one & disconnect the ecu plug when the immobilser has been dis-armed.

By doing this will it be canceled?

Edited May 16, 2007 by eu_andreiutz

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Should the tachy relay be in here?

http://www.99poze.ro/Peugeot_205_conversion/1/

Yes, mine is a brown relay in the green plug.

Where are this sensors from?

http://www.99poze.ro/Peugeot_205_conversion/2/

Oil pressure sender & low oil pressure switch. (stoplight on dash).

So the lambda wires are master keyed but wich wires go to the dash?

AFAIK after looking at the haynes wiring diagram, none of the wires from the lambda sensor go to the dash. All except one goes to the ecu plug & the last one to the lambda fuse then on to the diagnostic plug. (green two pin plug in This picture)

I have two sensors under the sad.....but none of them has a 2 pin plug....only one pin...

These are possibly the water temp sensor & temp warning light switch.

 

If you're ecu is locked/ immobilised then it won't start, it'll turn over but not fire.

 

Graham.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Yeah it`s immobilised.....i didn`t see any spark trying to fiind the donor car...and fitting the plug into the 3 pin plug near the gearbox...wich I think is from the imobiliser - I allready fitted one 3 pin connector to the engine speed sensor - one spare left)

 

"Oil pressure sender & low oil pressure switch. (stoplight on dash)."

Wich is wich?

 

About the lambda...on the old engine I have I light on the dashboard wich says LAMBDA SENSOR in the manual....so I thought that I shoul have one like this here also....

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

"Oil pressure sender & low oil pressure switch. (stoplight on dash)."

Wich is wich?

Stop switch is on left, oil pressure sender on right in your picture.

About the lambda...on the old engine I have I light on the dashboard wich says LAMBDA SENSOR in the manual....so I thought that I shoul have one like this here also....

That is more likely to be the engine management warning light, your dash might not have it but it will be the wire#74 from the green diagnotic pllug & linked to pin 46 on the ecu plug.

 

Graham.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Anyone has any ideea of where the engine imobiliser should be plugged into the ecu loom?What kind of connector does it have?

 

Thanks for all the help pugtorque

[eu_andreiutz 0]

OK

So I hooked up all the bits to the engine....it won`t start....no spark and no injector opening...so i guess it`s the engine imobiliser.

Anyone has any ideas where that has to be connected?

The engine had 2 connectors that I cut off, and I have some wires remaining, should the wires from the imobiliser be there?

Also the "tester" for the ecu to show the errorcodes doesn`t work.

Help!!

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

What kind of immobiliser was fitted? A factory keypad or a seperate type of immobilser?

 

Graham.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

It didn`t have any keypad.....so I guess it`s a separate type....

 

Also I couldn`t find a tachyrelay socket.....or is it the normal relay socket like this http://www.99poze.ro/205gti_1_9/1/

I only have 2 brown relays from the old 1.1 -

Edited May 25, 2007 by eu_andreiutz

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Newsflash!!!!!

The previous owner says it didn`t have an imobiliser....that he knew of....the key is a normal one....no chip in it....also no keypad in car.....so .....why won`t it start?

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

The tachymetric relay should fit into the green plug in your previous picture, the injection relay fits into the other one.

 

Both of these relays have five pins but the centre pin isn't used on either one. Ideally you need the relays that were fited to the car just incase the ones from the 1.1 engine are differently rated.

 

As for why you have no spark or injector opening, if it is all wired in correctly, have you got the crank angle sensor fitted in the gearbox?

 

You need to check that you have 12v at the ignition amp & coil with the ignition switched on, if you haven't thats one clear reason why you have no spark. The injectors won't work without the relay fitted which goes in the yellow plug in the box next to the tachymetric relay.

 

Graham.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

I connected the crank sensor...it had a three pin plug...the only one there.

I have 12 v at the amp&coil.

Hopefully monday I will get the car on the tester....and find out why I have no spark or injector opening.

 

Also I am not sure yet on the imobiliser....where should that be connected ....I don`t have any spare plugs or wires to the ecu or to the loom...

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Also I have tried to make the self tester....but it doesn`t work.

When I put the ignition on the led stops....but nothing happens when i short it....any help on that?

http://www.99poze.ro/205gti_1_9_587825931/1/

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Your self tester is wired wrong imo, it shouldn't be connected to the battery for its 12v but receives its power from the ecu diagnostics plug.

 

This topic or this post by petert might help.

 

The immobiliser if it had one fitted would normally be wired into the ignition barrel & not in the engine bay loom imo, they usually aren't on UK cars without original equipment immobilsers anyway.

 

Graham.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Well....how does the imobiliser send the data to the ecu so that it would lock it?

The self tester schematic is from autodata cd

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Thanks for the posts

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Well....how does the imobiliser send the data to the ecu so that it would lock it?

You posted that the previous owner of the car told you it didn't have any immobiliser fitted but my previous reply was with regards to if it had an aftermarket immobiliser fitted, not a factory installed keypad one which codes the ecu.

 

Graham.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

So only the factory keypad can lock the ecu?

In that case....yupyyy

[Hilgie 16 2 Cars]

Yes, only the factory keypad can lock the ECU. Aftermarket immobilsers can't.

[eu_andreiutz 0]

Thanks Hilgie and Pugtorque for your help

 

Your self tester is wired wrong imo, it shouldn't be connected to the battery for its 12v but receives its power from the ecu diagnostics plug.

 

http://www.99poze.ro/205gti_1_9_587825931/1/

 

How should I connect it?

I connected the light like the picture.....when the ignition is off the light is on....when I set the ignition on, the light comes off(so something happens).....but if I short the light like in the picture for 4 seconds nothing happens....it says it should light 1 shot period then 1 long one....

 

No spark and the injectors never open...

HELP

Edited June 1, 2007 by eu_andreiutz

[eu_andreiutz 0]

This is from the autodata cd...

http://www.99poze.ro/Ecu_reader_205_1_9_gti/1/

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

I don't think getting the fault code reader to work will tell you why you have no fuel or spark.

How should I connect it?

I connected the light like the picture.....when the ignition is off the light is on....when I set the ignition on, the light comes off(so something happens).....but if I short the light like in the picture for 4 seconds nothing happens....it says it should light 1 shot period then 1 long one....

The tester I have has only two wires & is connected with the flat blade connector to pin A on the plug & the other wire has a crocodile clip thats goes to earth & a switch to turn the tester on & off.

 

I'll scan the useful pages from the booklet that came with my tester tomorrow & post it when I get chance afterwards.

 

Graham.