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GTI_Lee

Would This Pass An Mot? (flexi's Being Mounted Like This)

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GTI_Lee

hi basically i have plumbed in a hydraulic handbrake and fetched lines inside the car. well i wasnt sure what to do when i get to the back for the flexi's.

 

so i have had a go.

 

basically the copper pipes come out of where the back seats are normall, then join onto the flexi. which is cable tied to the main beam. then it is fed around the back of the beam to the arm and cable tied and then joined back to copper to go into the caliper.

 

will it pass the mot like this?

 

thanks lee

DSC00266.jpg

DSC00267.jpg

DSC00272.jpg

DSC00271.jpg

DSC00270.jpg

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Mikey S

its hard to say mate without having a good look at it. the flexi's need to be securly mounted so they do not rub anywhere. also where it connects to the brake pipe, the trailing arm moving up and down will probably push that pipe up and kink it.

 

 

by the looks of the last pic you still have the standard handbrake, as if not it will fail.

Edited by pugger

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jonnie205

A much better way would have been to have a copper inside running to a bulkhead fitting then braided line from bulkhead to calliper. That setup may pass but its not realy the right way to do things

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GTI_Lee

yea. well to get through scrutineering i have to have both handbrakes working.

 

the flexis are mounted solid.i suppose if s*it happends i could get long braided flexis and do as you said jonnie.

 

thanks lads.suppose best thing to do is try it.

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smckeown

i believe there are 2 tyes of caliper/yoke combination; those that slide and those that dont. You can only use solid pipe on the caliper type that doesnt slide.

 

I've never seen a brake pipe go through the beam tube and car nefore, usually they go over both

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pugrallye

to be honest i would fail it just through the fact you have solely cable ties securing the flexi's from what i can see (and that is what tester is going to see) and routing it through shock absorber lower mount too as hypothetically it may get chafed under shock movement

Edited by pugrallye

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GTI_Lee

hmmm. what way would you suggest then. there noway of making a mount from what i can see.

 

its not touching the shock absorber either.

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205turbo

i would of drilled a hole in the boot floor passed the beam tube and bolted the flexies through these holes, you could of then piped up to them,

 

post-17-1178571479_thumb.jpg

 

would look at lot neater and would not need so many nylon tags, also changing the beam in the future would of been easyer,

Edited by 205turbo

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Mr_E

I wouldnt be too happy about them being routed like that, but it depends on where you get it MOT'd really.

 

Mine are done like this

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s315/Mr...ct/DSC00927.jpg

and they were done like that on my road rally and rallycross cars

 

Im only in Chirk if you are stuck with anything!

 

Cheers

Paul

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Pugnut

you need to get the correct brackets for attaching the brake pipes to the swing arm .each side has a bracket on the bottom shock mount , a clip that hangs off the arb retaining bolt and the one the sits close to the caliper (not used on 1.6's). Also where the solid comes through and is tie wrapped to the beam , you need to change that to something along the lines of mr e's ones. too much movement on a rear beam for solid pipe in my opinion.

 

you should easily source the brackets . i might have some i think.

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Jrod

Mine looks the same as Mr E's.

 

I've just ordered some slightly longer hoses from Miles so they clear the Tb's easily.

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Anthony

I would think that would fail an MOT for that as it's touching moving suspension parts and is debateable whether it's securely mounted or not (one of those "open to interpretation" areas).

 

Regardless of the MOT, I'd not be at all happy with how those lines are mounted and I'd strongly recommend stripping it off and doing it properly with the proper mounting that bolt onto the shell, and that bolt onto the bottom shock bolt.

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GTI_Lee

hmmm right...

 

well say i got hold of some standard brackets which go on the nut with the bottom of the shock absorber?

 

and maybe put a jubilee clip around the top part of the flexi where i have cable tied it. would that be anybetter

 

as i have no idea how to make it a solid mount onto the shell using standard flexi's and im gettin very short of copper pipe now ha.

 

thanks lee

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GTI_Lee

right lads...

 

i have managed to get hold of some original flex brackets. so i have now fitted these but i have still got the cable ties at the top joint of the flexi. there is no play at all in these.surely this is safe enough isnt it?

 

DSC00279.jpg

 

thanks lee

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Jrod

It looks better but you really want bulkhead connectors that way you can screw the flex into the body so it will never come free.

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pug_ham

I thnk the top of the flexi would fail an MOT, like Anthony says it isn't fixed to a solid, mountimg & the movement of the torsion bar with the suspension could cause an issue imo.

 

Lower end is better but would be to have the bracket fitted the right way so the metal pipe is kept out off the way & not hanging down like it is there. In a gravel rally a brick could smack the pipe & you could lose all brakes if the pipe was ripped free.

 

Graham.

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SPGTi

I will try and photograph mine as it is what you are trying to do. As an aside I use cable ties for everything and never had a problem at MOT.

 

Steve

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GTI_Lee

thanks mate that will be great help

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SPGTi

This is how mine is done and passes MOT no problem. Direct from bottom bracket on shock to bulkhead fitting. If you haven't used bulkhead fittings just have the connector on the outside with lots of silicon to hold the pipe away from the body work.

 

38.JPG

 

 

Steve

 

 

Excuse the mud, I haven't had chance to clean it since the weekend ;)

Edited by SPGTi

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GTI_Lee

ahright nice one.. well at the moment the joint is on the outside and the hole is gromited. the bulkhead fitting is it a special type or just a normal fitting?

 

DID YOU DO THE BORDER 100 BY ANY CHANCE??

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Mr_E

I was at the Border, its the 1st time i havnt either driven or navigated on it since 1998 (all the times it has run!)

 

Currently building a stage rally car now though. Entered Wilbarston on the 27th May and the car aint finished yet!

 

Cheers

Paul

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GTI_Lee
I was at the Border, its the 1st time i havnt either driven or navigated on it since 1998 (all the times it has run!)

 

Currently building a stage rally car now though. Entered Wilbarston on the 27th May and the car aint finished yet!

 

Cheers

Paul

 

ah right.... i was navi-ing in car No: 51. blue rover gti :lol:.

 

right... tonight lads i have bought a set of braided hoses which are alot longer and hopefull going to be long enough to go right into the car so i can use the hole as the mount.

will have a better look tomorrow because by time i had got back it was pissing down and was dark.

 

thanks lee

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SPGTi
ahright nice one.. well at the moment the joint is on the outside and the hole is gromited. the bulkhead fitting is it a special type or just a normal fitting?

 

DID YOU DO THE BORDER 100 BY ANY CHANCE??

 

Have a look on Demon Tweeks / Rally Design / JLS motorsport websites for pics of bulkhead connectors. You should be fine with it grommeted just make sure the flexi is OK.

 

Yes, did the Border 100. I had my old navs son navigating on his 1st Nat B, so a baptism of fire. We finished and picked up Junior crew award (as the nav is under 21). We had a few fails which was dissappointing but we finished.

 

Steve

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GTI_Lee

ah right kool. nice one.

 

we had 1 fail aswell thats my 3rd rally iv done..

 

ill give it a good look at tonight now i have these lines.hopefully i can sort it. can i have braided from bulkhead allway to caliper?

 

lee

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Anton green

I made up some brackets to hold the flexies before the copper lines. Just out of shot is a T-piece splitter which is bolted firmly to the underside of the boot floor, then copper piping to one bulkhead connector and to the cars interior. Have a look. I wouldnt chance anything which could cause the copper lines to bend repeatedly if only by a small amount as this could lead to fatigue and unexpected failure

 

DSC00131.jpg

 

If you decide to do something similar, just check you leave enough clearance for the exhaust silencer and job is a good un

Edited by Anton green

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