Mi16 Trouble

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

yea mines a D6C i never knew there was two different types, going on this does anyone have an idea what year the engine is? i just guess at a 91 i and so far everything for it has bin good

 

and il seccond that wealth of knowlage, id be lost without it

Edited April 1, 2007 by M_R_205

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

The DFW Mi16 was available in the UK, it's listed in my 1992 Parkers price guide.

[pugman211 0]

Ok guys, as soon as i source a ignition barrel from somewhere we have a green light to fire up the engine! And hopefully, it will work first time!! I've done the fuel lines, put the rad back in, connected the coolant pipes. Only ones i'm unsure of are the 2 thin coolant pipes that appear to come from the throttle body. I assume they both go to the expansion tank, I can get one to fit, but the other one has no where to go to as the other pipe on the expansion bottle goes to the top of the rad!?!?!??

 

Had to drain the fuel tank as it had about 12 litres of 5 year old petrol in it!!!! (mingin!!!) so i'll throw some fresh petrol in it on tuesday now, hook up a battery and fire it up! (we're gonna hot wire the car seeing as the lower dash is out we can get easy access to the ignition wires and bridge them)

[PsychoSimon 0]

IIRC mate the other one should go tto the thermostat housing. There should be an outlet on that, but failing that, it would be perfectly acceptable to block off the outlet on the header tank that you have used and leave both pipes off the throttle body. I ran mine like that for a while as my throttle body started leaking. no problems at all

[pugman211 0]

Thats what was confusing me, because both the pipes from the TB are only small diameter, and both will easily reach the expansion bottle. I think i need to connect the bottom hose though i think, as it has a sensor connected to it.

 

Could i run the bottom hose off the TB and just blank off the top one???? Or could i put a Y join in, and let the 2 pipes merge into one at the point of entry to the expansion bottle????

 

Its a good job i'm a better car sprayer than mechanic!!!!! lmao!

[PsychoSimon 0]

If you connect the two pipes together with a y piece you will just be doing the same as bolcking them off, as the coolant won't be able to flow backwards up the pipe. Also the same as if you just use the one pipe, the colant won't be able to flow back.

 

I think mine went from the small pipe on the top of the rad, to the throttle body then from the throttle body to the header tank

[pugman211 0]

Im so happy today as i finally plucked up the courage to start my Mi16 engine!! (many thanks to Spikey who supplied me with a new ignition barrel and Tailgate barrel too!!!!)

 

 

At first i was worried about wires melting - but luckily that didnt happen!!! thanks to you guys on here with all the info!!!! So on the the first full turn off the key i got -CLICK!!!!! Battery charger went on, 5 min later, the engine turned over lazily but no fire up!!!! After about 5 min of that, i rechecked all the wiring - that was ok!!! Tried again - turned over but still no fire. So i thought there was a fault in the wiring as i ripped out a crummy Pug alarm/immob!! Because i couoldn't hear the fuel pump priming up i thought immobiliser has kicked in.

 

Checked wires again, no joy. So took off the fuel line to see if petrol was pumped........it was!!!!! WOOHOO!!!! part 1 of the problem erased! Was then gonna check spark, but as we cranked engine over, it nearly fired. Gave it another 5 min on charge and then tried and........................i heard the sweet music of an MI16 on first fire up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And cos im sad i recorded it on my mobile!!!! LMAO!!!!

 

So big thanks to everyone who has helped!!! now i can finish off the wiring by soldering it properly. Then buy the rest of the parts i need to finish the car to get an MOT!!! and then i'll hopefully have it at FCS anf Pugfest!!!

[PsychoSimon 0]

well done that man!!

[pugman211 0]

Now that the Tach relay has been disconnected, can i chop any excess wires off???? Cos that will really tidy up the engine bay. obviously keep wire 76 for the fuel pump. At the moment, i'm finding it difficult to fit all the wires and the air flow meter next to the battery!!!

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

And cos im sad i recorded it on my mobile!!!! LMAO!!!!

 

sounds daft,but could you send me the vidio of what it sounds like when it turns over, im having a bit of grief with mine not starting, just want to compare well done also!!!! cant wait for mine to get its act together

[pugman211 0]

And how do i wire in the K light??? I have searched but couldnt find a clear answer. My 309 is a phase 1 and hasn't got the K light installed anywhere!!!

 

I've got the wire off the Mi loom, but only want to make a test curcuit to make sure there is no faults in the ECU etc.

 

many thanks!

 

Baz

[pugman211 0]

Can anyone shed some light into thenwiring of a K light??? I only need to make a light circuit to see if its coming on while the engine is running!!

 

Thanks

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

K Light - I don't think you need bother. The K light wire is on one of the brown multi plugs by the steering column and the layout of the pins has been detailed on here so many times it should be easy to find, IF you're gonna bother.

 

As for the tachy relay, as I gather you have the Mi16 ECU then the relay isn't needed at all. There is usually a seperate yellow wire exiting the ECU itself which goes to the fuel pump. The function of the 8v tachy relay is performed by the ECU (just in cas you didn't know). You can either take this yelow wire to the white IIRC wire (no 76?) on the brown multi plug or go direct to the pump. The former is easier.

 

Regards

 

Rich

Edited April 22, 2007 by DrSarty

[pugman211 0]

Thanks Rich, but ive already sorted the Tach relay, just used the fuel pump wire No. 76. and chopped the rest off to tidy up the engine bay more. As for the K light, my 309 is a phase 1 and didnt have one installed anywhere in the system (not even a lamp on the dash clocks). I only wanted to make sure the engine is running with no faults.

 

The last few bits of trouble i've got is, i cant get my oil guages to work!!!! which is really annoying!!!!!! It must be a wiring issue as the oil temp sender is brand new from Pug.

 

Ive got wires 30c (405 loom) to wire 30J (309 loom)

and wires 30 (405 loom) to wire 30B (309 loom)

 

But also coolant warning light wont go off!! but coolant guage works fine!!!

[jim205GTI 3]

Least you can get some of your guages to work ................. the engine runs but my guages don't even get a flicker of life.. all working fine before mi went in so it was probably my wiring

[pugman211 0]

All i did was keep re-checking the wires again and again, ive just ordered a new pressure sender from Pug, so when i fit that and connect the wire, hopefully that will give a clue. If it still dont work, i'll check the wires for breaks and then the fuses!!!! But it is really stressing me out!!!!

 

That and to top it off the tappets are really noisy on tickover but as soon as u open the revs a little and i mean like within 200 rpm, the noise dissapears!! So many things to do in such little time as the Pug is about to be evicted into the open elements after 5 years in dry storage!!!!

[nick 3]

The easy check for any of the sensor wires is to earth them. Take the wire off the sensor and touch it on anything metal (ignition on), the needle on the corresponding gauge should go straight to the top, if it does you know that both the gauge and the wire are fine.

 

Nick

[pugman211 0]

Ah cool!!!! I will try that when i get to work in a bit!!!! Cheers!!!

[VisaGTi16v 1]

Are they connected the right way round?

 

Only a guess but if the pressure sensor and pressure warning switch (two on the front) are round the wrong way it could force the Stop light on all the time?

 

As Nick says above, that will test your wiring and gauges out as I had to do that recently before ending up running a new wire and replacing my oil temperature sensor (one in the sump)

[pugman211 0]

Hey guys!!!

 

Right i tested the wires like Nick said, and yeah, the wires are the right way!!! Oil pressure switch is sorted. Oil pressure guage is now working as i made a wire for it - however it just sits off at 1 Bar. I have read in other posts that its because its the Mi16 one, so when i fit the new XU9JA one ive ordered from pug it should work fine!!!!

 

Oil temp sender, wire is correct with no breaks, guage is fine, but didnt seem to be working on weekend, will let the engine have a real good run on saturday.

 

And its the same with the coolant level warning lamp. That stays on all the time even thought the engine is full of water. But saying that, i didnt wait for the thermostat to open up and fans kick in etc. Either that or it has a really big air lock.

 

So all i need to finish off is an exhaust system, o/s driveshaft new brakes and an MOT!! Woohoo!!! hopefully the car will be back on the road after nearly 5 years in dry storage!!!!!

[nick 3]

If you have the black expansion tank on your cooling system, the light will stay on most of the time anyway. It's a common fault with them. I've disconnected mine and just check the level every couple of weeks.

 

Nick