[engine_work] 1.6 Engine Removal, Build And Refit

[frodo_monkey 0]

Update:

 

With the timing done it was time to make my other half happy and get the engine out of my dining room finally... It also meant a whole load less walking while transferring all the ancilliaries from the old engine. So with it back in the garage, I put all the plastic cambelt surround back on it and the crank pulley for the alternator on. With that done I could torque-up the crank bolt and the cam pulley bolt. I then put lots of lube on the lobes of the cam and on the tops of the followers, and then bolted the cam cover down. Having got a thermostat housing gasket from Pug, I could refit the thermostat housing and put the dizzy on.

 

So with that little lot done, I have an engine looking like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2150001.jpg

 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2150003.jpg

I will refit the alternator when I get a spare minute, then take the engine off the stand, hoist it over into the car and sit it on the top engine mount and a Workmate laid flat under the subby. I can then fit the flywheel and the clutch, then think about putting the gearbox and battery tray back on - hopefully I'll get most of this cracked on Saturday, if not then max0 (Andy) has very kindly agreed to help me out next Monday...

 

I now have a target date to have everything done as well - my first race of the season is on the weekend of the 19th of May up at Croft! Theres a round a fortnight before that but rubbishly I'll be in the Falklands with work. Before that I'll drag the car over to Motoscope once its back in one piece, and get it run-in and set-up on the rollers there

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

looking spot on now, Re earlier question about fuel lines, the line in is the threaded one that comes of the filter , return is the one off the back of the regulator.

Side note, any idea what motoscope are charging for rioller use now they have the new dasteks in? Will be wanting to take mine down if/when I finish it.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Nice one, cheers Richie! Regarding the rollers, I spoke to Dan there yesterday and its £50 an hour plus the dreaded VAT - generally book a week or so in advance but maybe more if its a weekend.

 

As an aside, you might be able to help me with my carbs... Std Mikunis off an R1, I have a question when it comes to air filters! I want to fit something like a Ramair/ITG/Pipercross 600-type filter with a baseplate; does anybody make a bespoke one for the R1 carbs or is there something off another set of carbs that will do? I would get a blank one and cut it but I'm feeling lazy

 

Guess Boggs might do them?

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

I think boggs will do one pre cut for an itg or ram air filter. I spoke to an ITG dealer and theres no baseplates they do that match the port size and spacing of the bike carbs.

Im now planning to make an airbox on front of mine with a cold air feed and enclosed filter, possibly a large panel filter inside airbox. Ive been advised by a friend that builds trikes the venturis are a lot more responsive to throttle change with an airbox in front due to the pulsing effect. How accurate this is and how well it will work on lower rpm in comparison to a bike engine I dont know but has to be worth a try

[gti_al 1]

I will refit the alternator when I get a spare minute, then take the engine off the stand, hoist it over into the car and sit it on the top engine mount and a Workmate laid flat under the subby. I can then fit the flywheel and the clutch, then think about putting the gearbox and battery tray back on - hopefully I'll get most of this cracked on Saturday, if not then max0 (Andy) has very kindly agreed to help me out next Monday...

 

Why not fit the flywheel/clutch box while it is on the hoist and drop it in together... i did it that way, and it was much less painful that doing it under the car.

 

Looks the goods btw.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Bugger, meant to type that! Yep, flywheel and clutch going on today before I put it into the engine bay... Gearbox going on after!

[frodo_monkey 0]

Wahey, the engine and gearbox is in!

 

I started by fitting the alternator (so easy with the engine not in the car!) and then put the fanbelt on. So I had this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2170001.jpg

I then got the hoist out, put a strap around the engine and took the weight off the engine stand. With that done, I could unbolt the engine stand and hide it at the back of the garage again

 

To fit the flywheel and clutch I lowered the engine onto a flattened Workmate. With the oil seal in place and a couple of lines of silicone laid to stop any leakage, I placed the flywheel on and bolted her up (new bolts & Loctite, naturally). I then took a 1/2" drive extension bar and wrapped some speedtape around the shaft to make it easier to mount the clutch (top tip from JonMurgie - see www.mdracing.co.uk):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2170004.jpg

I held the pressure plate in place with my makeshift bar while I bolted the clutch cover on, using the marks

where CAS Engineering balanced it to line it up. So the engine sorted, ready to go back in then have the gearbox attached. I hoisted the lump back up and dropped it over the top, then down onto the trusty Workmate again:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2170006.jpg

I took a couple of minutes giving my battery tray a lick of paint, then dug the gearbox out of the back of the garage, and balanced it on a trolley jack. It was teabreak time while the tray dried!

 

After a brew, I bolted the battery tray back in and put my uprated BakerBM gearbox mount in place. I could then manoeuvere (sp?) the 'box into position under the N/S front of the car. With a bit of brute force and ignorance, I got the spline into the engine, then pushed the gearbox onto the dowels on the side of the crankcase.

 

Having torqued the gearbox up, I could now think about the engine mounts. It was getting a bit dark, so I just fitted the top engine mount and the gearbox mount, and left a trolley jack supporting the weight of the engine and 'box underneath.

 

So now my car looks like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2170009.jpg

I'm caked in oil and crap, but morale is high

 

Work again tomorrow, then an afternoon off on Monday in which I'll fit the lower engine mount, and probably start thinking about driveshafts, exhaust manifolds, electrics etc

 

Frodo

[mickie 3]

great work, takes me back

 

all of 5 month back on my 1.6 rebuild

[steve031286 0]

That truly looks awesom! I hope my gti-6 looks as clean as that when its done!

 

You must be chuffed!

 

steve

[frodo_monkey 0]

Thanks Steve, yep I'm pretty pleased with how it looks

 

Todays update:

 

Got stuck at work so was limited in my garage time, but I started off by torquing up some of the bolts that I didn't do over the weekend. Unfortunately I then realised I'd buggered the thread on my top engine mount , so I'll be ordering another from Stew in a minute. I then fixed the lower strut brace in place:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2190003.jpg

I then reconnected the speedo cable and all the water pipes around the back of the engine, ready for me to do the exhaust manifold in a couple of days. I also reconnected the clutch cable and gear rods. After refitting the starter, I fed the loom around the top mount, and started reconnecting. Most of it is done, and I've bagged/tagged the leads that used to go to the throttle body and the injectors, and cable-tied them out of the way under the alternator. So this is what the engine bay looks like now:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2190001.jpg

A couple of leccy questions though, as some of my labels had fallen off... I have reconnected the wiring to the starter, but I'm unsure about the spade terminal connector - should it be a green wire as below?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2190004.jpg

It is green under the tape, honest! Also, I have this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2190002.jpg

left over. I know that the connectors on the bottom right go to the small black box behind the N/S headlight, and the one at the top goes to a wire I have going through the bulkhead. The ring fitting on the left however, is a mystery! It looks like an earth to me, does it go on the top of the gearbox?

 

Thanks all, I hope you can help! On Weds I'll be going to Graham's (Pugtorque) to get a fan and talk 205s, then I'll get back, finish up the wiring and start thinking about refitting the driveshafts, then maybe put the fan cowling and rad back in.

 

Frodo

[gti_al 1]

I know that the connectors on the bottom right go to the small black box behind the N/S headlight, and the one at the top goes to a wire I have going through the bulkhead. The ring fitting on the left however, is a mystery! It looks like an earth to me, does it go on the top of the gearbox?

 

That looks like the bit which goes down to the oil temp sensor in the sump... probably isn't, but i seem to remember having something like that left over as well.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

The starter solenoid wire should be a thicker guage wire than the rest in that area & bluey green so it sounds like you have the right one to the starter. Your car has the brown multi plug doesn't it? If so the plugs pins & wire colours have been discussed quite in depth recently in the XU service & maintenance section (latest by Grim Badger) so you should be able to wire it all in correctly.

 

The wires in the lower pic, if they go the the battery distribution block beside the nearside headlamp then it should be easy to find there path on another GTi. Unfortunately when you come over on Wednesday mine won't be here as I needed the space on my drive this week to do some work on someone else's but hopefully their 205 will be here by then. I doubt it will run directly from the battery distribution block to the gearbox earth though.

 

It looks too thick for the oil temp sender & that runs through the brown multiplug anyway so it shouldn't be seperate & it'd be a single wire imo.

 

Graham.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Thanks for the help chaps - I had some excellent help from Pugtorque (Graham) today so its sorted

 

Todays update:

 

Having a half-day off, I boogied-on over to Grahams to pick up a spare fan and talk 205s - thanks! Having made the journey back across the Dales, I got cracking in the garage. First job was to get those pesky electrics sorted - turns out the 'ring' connector I was asking about goes to the starter! With that done, I positioned the coil next to the alternator and 'attached' it with some cable ties - I will make a bracket eventually but it will suffice for now. I put on the BBM main oil pipe, and connected up a few other oil and water pipes (more to follow below). Next move was to put the exhaust manifold and new gaskets on, then torque-up the manifold to the head, and the downpipe to the manifold.

 

After a small dinner break, I came back out and fitted the carbs to the head. It was a bit of a fiddly bugger of a job, but seeing it makes the skinned knuckles worthwhile :

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2210008.jpg

With that in place, I decided to refit the radiator & fan cowling (now with twin fans), and the slam panel. I plan to lower the radiator in the future to allow a bigger air filter and to ensure a supply of cold air. But this is what it looks like presently:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2210009.jpg

I then called it a night just after 10pm

 

A couple of 'pipe' questions... Having removed the standard inlet manifold and air filter etc, I have a few spare pipes. I have sorted one out by making a line direct from the thermostat to the header tank like so (the pipe in the foreground of the pic):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2210001.jpg

Is this correct? I also have two more pipes spare, the first of which is an oil pipe coming from the thermostat area, that formerly connected to the underside of the inlet manifold:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2210002.jpg

Is this a breather, and can I take the pipe off and replace it with one of those mini K&N type affairs, or is there something else I need to do? The other pipe originates from just below the distributor at the back, and went again to the old inlet manifold assembly:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2210004.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2210005.jpg

Again, what should I do with this? Is it as simple as connecting these two together? Please say yes!

 

Providing that somebody knows the answers, I'll get the plumbing squared away on Friday, then refit the driveshafts, reconnect some of the suspension/hubs, refit the strut brace and make a wire down to the oil temp sensor (my old one is crap).

 

Frodo

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Glad you sorted the wiring Si, thats where i thougth it all went.

 

The pipe from the thermostat housing is perfectly OK, thats the way I said to do & its how mine is plus the car I'm doing now will be done like that tomorrow.

 

The two pipes you have are for the SAD (one from the bottom of the old inlet & from underneath the dizzy), you can remove both of those & the SAD.

 

Graham.

[frodo_monkey 0]

As ever Graham, I'm indebted to you! Thanks

[frodo_monkey 0]

OK, after a very productive weekend I now have a nearly finished 205 , a blood blister and a cleaner garage

 

Started yesterday by removing the SAD and associated plumbing, which frees up a bit more space around the dizzy area. I also reconnected the oil temp sensor as I'd left it dangling

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2230002.jpg

I then decided to lower the radiator. Having searched on here, looked at the DES Developments site and read DreamWeaver's topic here, I decided that there was no chuffin' way I'd buy one for £120 when I could make one for a tenner. So I went to B&Q, bought a pack of 700mm radiator brackets, some metal t-pieces, corner pieces and drilled bar (£10ish), and cracked-on.

 

First thing I did was to remove the rad, then hacksaw off the std mounts. After offering up my B&Q mount to the rad bottom, I was dead pleased to see that it was pretty much a direct fit, apart from crudely 'modifying' some of the holes with a drill. I also had to open up pretty much all the holes to use M6 bolts - I had a bag of them lying around. I used the rubber donuts off the old mounts, and so had this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240005.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240006.jpg

I then got under the car, drilled a couple of holes and mounted two corner brackets below where the std mounts go with some M6 bolts:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240007.jpg

Next task was to mate the corner brackets on the car to the rad mount. I used a bit of cut-off rubber hose as a spacer, and drilled a couple of holes to mount the T-pieces to the mount:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240008.jpg

And fitted it to the car:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240009.jpg

With that done I refitted the rad and cable-tied it at the top (I will make some better mounts in the future). So next concern was the metal water pipe, which needed angling down. I drilled and cut the metal bar (standard one at the top):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240013.jpg

And then fitted it:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240014.jpg

So with that done, I did some crude modifications to my slam panel and fan cowling (with an angle grinder ) to enable me to fit an air filter later on, and to remove unnecessary plastic. I also fitted the catch tank, using a copper T-piece from the plumbing bit in B&Q.

 

So the engine bay looked like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2240016.jpg

Edit' image size, less than 120k please Si.

Edited February 26, 2007 by pugtorque

[frodo_monkey 0]

Today, I started by refitting the driveshafts and reconnecting the suspension. After torquing everything up, I put some 1.9 wheels on it and dropped it to the ground to do up the hub nuts and the strut top nuts. After using a drift to punch in the sides of the hub nuts, I swapped in my old 1.6 rims which it normally wears in the garage.

 

I then decided that I wanted a lighter bonnet. I've been thinking about a fibreglass one, but money is lacking at the mo so I thought I'd lighten my existing one. So after 10mins with the angle grinder again, I was left with this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2250017.jpg

And this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2250018.jpg

After refitting the bonnet, I knocked-up a couple of brackets for my FPRs and called it a day.

 

Next task is to get a fuel union for the top of the filter, then I can plumb in the FPRs and the takeoff for the fuel pressure gauge. I have a 405 throttle cable kit on order from GSF, so I'll fit that when it pitches up.

 

Quick question - how do I take off just one carb off my R1s? I want to take off the one on the N/S so it isn't so fiddly to connect the throttle cable and fuel lines. Any ideas or pictures anywhere?

 

Frodo

Edited February 26, 2007 by pugtorque

[DaveK 0]

looking good mate, i'll be doing pretty much the same thing as this in afew months, its good motivation

 

2 thumbs up!

[frodo_monkey 0]

Thanks Dave! I just want the bugger finished now... Thanks also to those who have replied to my throttle cable topic here, more help needed

 

This weeks progress:

 

I have made suitable brackets and mounted the FPRs and the takeoff for my fuel pressure gauge, I'm just waiting on the union to fit in the top of my fuel filter and the fuelling will be sorted. I also fitted my new throttle cable (see other topic for the fun and games I've had with that). I also wired-in a switch so that I have a manual override for the fan to make it run on high-speed whenever I want (details here).

 

I also decided I had to sort the ride height at the front out, and wanted higher rate springs anyhow, so ordered some 275lb 8" badboys from Rally Design - after much faffing and not a little swearing I had those on tonight - if anybody wants some 9" by 2.25" 250lb springs, drop me a PM I also took the time to fill up the gearbox while I had the N/S wheel off the car.

 

So the underbonnet looks like this:

 

 

Unfortunately I'm away for all next month in Belgium with work, but by the time I get back I'll hopefully have an air filter and this fuel fitting, so once I've fitted those and filled her up with oil and water, I'll be ready to start it!

 

Frodo

[frodo_monkey 0]

Update time!

 

Back from Belgium last weekend, therefore have been doing a few jobs on the 205...

 

I arrived back to a large parcel from Shenpar with a baseplate and air filter in it, so these are now on:

 

 

The car is filled with engine oil, gearbox oil and water, and seems leak free I have got a fitting for the top of the fuel filter as well now, so the fuel lines are done. After a bit of lateral thinking I have figured out a way of unf*cking my throttle linkage (some metal meccano, nuts & bolts and a spring), after a bit of drilling etc tonight it should be ready to fit tomorrow evening. So all being well, I should be able to start her up at the weekend!

 

A question or two first...

 

1) With it being a new engine running a new fuel system and new carbs, I need to run it in... So I plan on running the cam in first with a 20 min spell at around 2500 rpm - how do I set the fuel pressure up for this without having the engine running? I've been told that 5psi is a good starter figure?

 

and 2) Does anyone know what the hell this is and where it goes?! Found it in my box of spares and am now curious:

 

 

Answers on a postcard! Also, I'm now booked onto the rollers at Motoscope... on Fri 13th! and my first race of the season should be over the weekend of 19/20 May up at Croft.

 

Frodo

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

it could be a knock sensor or a crank sensor, not sure, but i think its the crank sensor as it has the cable attached...

 

btw, how much was that filter and whats the part number?? im after one but the itg ones are £90

[28CRAIG 2]

Peugeot use that to set the timming you can bin it. You could also swap your oil filler cap thingy for a mi16 one with a single oulet to make it look a bit better.

[frodo_monkey 0]

It was about that much with the baseplate I'm afraid... Can't help you with the part number, I just rang Shenpar and asked for one with a baseplate cut to fit the carbs (I was feeling lazy) - cost about £120.

 

New problem - I've tried turning it over lots but it just won't fire... I haven't touched the wiring at all, its running the original dizzy and coil with the ECU still connected but the old injector wiring tied out of the way. I've tried taking out leads but theres no spark at all. The wiring is still exactly the same as when it was running injection, I was under the impression it would 'plug and play'?? There is definitely fuel getting to the carbs. Any thoughts?

[DamirGTI 323]

Hi !

 

Check big earth cable which goes from battery - , to gearbox

[frodo_monkey 0]

Thanks, unfortunately I don't have one of those anymore as my battery is inside (earthed elsewhere). Have managed to scrounge a multimeter so will get out tomorrow night and have a look