[engine_work] 1.6 Engine Removal, Build And Refit

[frodo_monkey 0]

Ah, gotcha - makes sense now explained in different words

[frodo_monkey 0]

A tedious day at work today (one simulator trip only, then mindless trivia) saw me race home as soon as possible, where a little parcel from Debben awaited me (good site - www.debben.co.uk):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030002.jpg

My degree wheel, dial gauge & stand and Plastigauge had arrived! So I got cracking.

 

First job was to clean up the crank: (shown here with clutch cover and flywheel attached)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030001.jpg

After that I decided to use the Plastigauge and check the big-end clearances. Plastigauge laid out on the crank:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030003.jpg

They were all roughly 0.050mm / 2 thou' as per the Haynes Book Of Lies:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030006.jpg

 

Next I got on to giving the new bearings a bit of a clean - a bit anal I know, but I think a bit of 3-in-1/newspaper attention can't hurt:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030007.jpg

I then fitted the sparkling upper main bearings to the block:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030008.jpg

And laid the crank in ready to check the main bearing clearances:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030009.jpg

After that I spent an hour or so cleaning up my main bearing caps as they were a little grotty, and decided to call it a night It was beer o'clock!

 

So having got this far, and forgotten what the engine looked like when I stripped it, I have a couple of questions...

 

1) Main bearing caps - if I was looking up into the bottom of the engine, with the flywheel end on my right and the timing chain end on my left, the main bearing caps would be this way round?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1030010.jpg

i.e. with 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - rear crank oil seal main bearing thingy?

 

and 2) with the thrust washers, I have 2 on the 'sump' side of no.2 main bearing, and one either side of the crank on the rear crank oil seal main bearing, is that right?

 

Sorry for the long post and rubbishly-worded questions!

 

More to follow tomorrow hopefully

 

edit; image sizes again.

[Guest rick03054]

I think you have the first 4 caps upside down though, on my engine the tags on the caps pointed away from the flywheel.

 

And the thrust washers sit around bearing 2 like this.

 

Hope that can be of some help to you.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Thanks for that Rick!

 

Just the ticket - I was just about to ask when you put the lower thrustwashers on no 2 (Haynes forgets this)... That picture sorts it right out!

 

Next question - on no 1 main bearing cap, according to Haynes I'm meant to have some sealing strips that go in the recess on the side of the cap, then the end of these strips fit into a hole in the block next to no 1 bolt holes (if that makes sense).

 

Thing is, my block has no holes for these end bits... Is this going to be an issue, and will it be an issue if I fit the no 1 main bearing cap without this sealing strip?

 

EDIT - Did a search, found the answer, I'm a mong and I'm off to the Pug dealer tomorrow Guess that scuppers my plan to get the pistons in tonight...

Edited January 4, 2007 by frodo_monkey

[frodo_monkey 0]

Update time...

 

My local Pug dealer did a great job and got me the sealing strips within an hour or so of asking for them! Therefore all the main bearing caps are now in. Me checking clearances with the Plastigage:

 

 

I then oiled the flywheel side crank oil seal and fitted that (though not properly yet as the engine stand is kinda in the way). Things were going well so I decided to oil the liners and pistons, and get them fitted. Block as it appears now:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1050005.jpg

You may notice a gaping hole... Thats because I tried to 'persuade' one piston to go in a little vigorously without checking the compressor was fully tightened. Therefore this happened:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1050004.jpg

One word - bugger. By the way, I checked Miamistu's Pug catalogue and it isn't that clear on my rubbish screen, do they sell the oil control rings separate and singly?

 

Had almost had enough at this point and was close to throwing a wobbly, so decided to calm down by fitting a Group A spring to the oil pump (longer Grp A spring shown fitted here):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1050003.jpg

Gave up after that as I was 'annoyed'!

 

So next task is to get up early tomorrow to go order a crank woodruff key (I've misplaced mine somewhere) and see if Pug will do me 1x oil control ring! Then I can get the left crank oil seal, cam sprocket etc back on

[frodo_monkey 0]

Another productive day saw me get up early and get 2x crank keys from Pug as well as my piston ring ordered. Put a new exhaust on my missus' 306, then settled into doing some engine stuff...

 

I started by torquing up the conrods and big end caps that I have fitted - obviously waiting for the piston ring before I can do the other one

 

Moved swiftly onto the 'timing chain' area of the crank - fitted the first crank key and slotted-on the oil pump sprocket and chain. Then I fitted the oil seal into the carrier with a liberal splash of engine oil. Before I could fit the carrier, I had to make myself a nice oil-tight 'gasket' with some RTV silicone (see the red gack around the sides of the carrier on the pic below). Once the carrier was on and bolts torqued-up, I could fit the second crank key and slide on the timing chain sprocket. I also decided to fit the new waterpump at this point:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1060005.jpg

So with all that done I decided to fit the first timing chain placcy shield and hang the cambelt tensioner on the side of the block:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1060008.jpg

With that I decided that, rather than risk a bolly from my girlfriend, I'd finish up and cook dinner (off to start that in a minute). Next task is to pop to Pug in the week to order some bolts that I'm missing (mainly the ones that hold the plastic shields on, but also the ones on the cambelt tensioner), then once I have the solitary piston reringed get that in and torqued-up. Once thats done I'll fit the oil pump and the sump & gasket.

 

And then I'll be pretty much ready to fit the head once Shenpar have made my inlet manifold (they have it to make up a bespoke fanimold at the minute).

 

Frodo

[Wurzel 16]

That's looking like a good job there Si.

 

I'm particularly happy about the fact that your rebuilding it in what looks like your dining room It's the only good use of a dining room table if you ask me.

 

I'll have to have a look sometime.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Welcome any time, the kettles normally on!

 

Right, I'm off outside to drain the fluids from the existing lump

[PumaRacing 1]

Update time...

You may notice a gaping hole... Thats because I tried to 'persuade' one piston to go in a little vigorously without checking the compressor was fully tightened. Therefore this happened:

 

It's also helps somewhat if you fit the pistons through the correct end of the liner - the bottom. That's why there's a big chamfer there and not at the top end !

 

Then you fit the piston and liner to the block as a unit.

[Guest rick03054]

It's also helps somewhat if you fit the pistons through the correct end of the liner - the bottom. That's why there's a big chamfer there and not at the top end !

 

Then you fit the piston and liner to the block as a unit.

 

That's not how it's explained in the haynes manual. It says to fit the liners then use the handle of a hammer to knock the piston into the top if the liner throught the ring compressor. Doesn't mention any taper as far as I can see.

 

Your way sounds better to me when I think about it. One worry I've had is the rod bolts etc. hitting the crank journal when you shove the piston.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Hi all,

 

What you're saying does make sense Dave, but wouldn't have been possible in my case - I had to get new liners as the old ones were knackered, and the engineering shop who did the work for me very kindly fitted them as they arrived. I wasn't going to remove the liners to fit the pistons! I would have had no problems fitting them the way I did, if I hadn't had a moment of 'brain fade' and forgot to check the compressor was fully-tightened At least I've learned the lesson about being pedantic and checking early, and rather inexpensively!

 

Update time:

 

Theres nothing more I can do to the new engine until I get the new piston ring, and get a few more bolts ordered from Pug. So I decided to venture out to the garage to make a start on removing the existing lump. Firstly I started the car and let it run for 15mins or so, to get the oil flowing round. Meanwhile, I removed the slam panel, air filter and my oil catch tank. The yellow electrical tape you can see everywhere is my little memory-jogger for when I put the bits back - I reckon a minute spent here and there labelling things and separating them into bags will help me out no end in the long run! Removed so far:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1070003.jpg

I then switched the engine off, and got underneath to undo the sump plug. I caught the healthy-looking oil in a drain can, and left it to fully drain while I cracked-on with the radiator. I decided the easiest way was to take the bottom hose off where it joins the infamous metal pipe (I replaced mine last year so its still nice and shiny).

 

Lessons learnt, 2) Don't assume that the empty plastic container you are going to use to catch the coolant will have a big enough neck to put the hose in... I did, and had to spend the next 10mins mopping

 

With that done, I disconnected the electrical connector to the thermostat, undid the jubilee clips holding on the two top hoses, and pulled them clear. This left the radiator free to come out. With that clear, I could undo the electrical connector to the fan, and remove the fan shrouding. Stored on the roof:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1070002.jpg

Therefore the front of the car now looks a whole lot emptier:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1070001.jpg

I gave up at this point as the light and my motivation were fading!

 

So whats next? Outside, I need to remove the strut brace, battery tray (the battery already lives in the cockpit), and remove the the exhaust manifold. Then I can crack on with removing the shocks (coming off for a clean up) and taking the driveshafts out. This will also drain the gearbox oil (learned that lesson the hard way before).

 

Inside, once I have the bolts and piston ring from Pug, I can refit the piston & rod, torque it up then refit the oil pump. With that on the sump & gasket can go back on. I can also secure the plastic timing chain cover in place.

 

More to come next week hopefully!

[PumaRacing 1]

Hi all,

 

What you're saying does make sense Dave, but wouldn't have been possible in my case - I had to get new liners as the old ones were knackered, and the engineering shop who did the work for me very kindly fitted them as they arrived. I wasn't going to remove the liners to fit the pistons!

 

I don't think "fitted" is a word I could even contemplate using about liners. They just drop into the holes in the block and lift back out just as easily. There's no "fitting" involved and no way of putting them in any other way round than the one that works. You'd better be damn sure they installed the o-rings before they put them in though or you'll be cursing when you remove the engine from the car with a sump full of water and strip it back down again.

 

Anyway, next time you'll know. Peugeot put a bloody great big chamfer on the bottom of the liners for a reason and one reason only. To help you fit the pistons into them. There'd be no other point in adding a machining operation to something buried at the bottom of the engine that you never get to see except at rebuild time.

[max0 5]

Good work Si, i should take a leaf out of your book and pull my finger out and get my engine rebuilt.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Hey, happy to help if you like - give me a shout if you want, also if you want an extra pair of hands for your shockers!

 

Great James Hunt badge quote in your sig by the way

[frodo_monkey 0]

Todays update - bits from Pug arriving between tomorrow and Friday, so should have the entire bottom end of the new lump by the end of Sunday. After that I'll be waiting on a call from Shenpar to go get my stuff - XU10J2 head with 279 CatCam has been living with them so they could make me an inlet manifold. I'll also be picking up the R1 carbs I swapped with them for the R6 ones. Should be before the end of the month hopefully! Then I can fit the head, get the timing sorted and then have the new engine pretty much ready to go.

 

Outside, I've been stripping the engine bay area further. I started by opening the gearbox drain and emptying the fluid, and while that ran I disconnected the two gear change rods down the back of the 'box. The strut brace was next to come off - I have also acquired a lower brace to go on once the engine is out.

 

I then disconnected the throttle cable and vacuum pipe to the brake servo from the inlet manifold, and the pipe that comes from the header tank. I started disconnecting the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and the exhaust manifold from the head, but ran out of motivation before removing it in entirety. I had a peek at the alternator to see if I could get away without removing it, and I reckon I can so its staying put.

 

So when I next get some time for outside (next week probably) I'll be disconnecting the fuel system and the driveshafts, finishing off removing the exhaust manifold, then disconnecting a few more hoses and starting to take off the wiring Call it an afternoon or twos work, then I should be just about ready to lift the thing out!

[frodo_monkey 0]

OK, update time:

 

Had a half-day today, so spent the afternoon attacking the Pug.

 

First job was to realise that I hadn't undone the hub nuts before I jacked the car up - Lessons Learnt, 3) Don't make the same mistake. This made me a complete cock! I slung the 1.9 wheels back on and lowered it to the floor. I attacked the nuts with a breaker bar and an electric impact wrench and they eventually submitted. So it was back in the air and wheels back off for the 205.

 

Second job was to take off the battery tray, first supporting the gearbox underneath with a trolley jack / axle stand. Lessons Learnt, 4) There are 4 bolts attaching the tray, not just the two you can see... Took me five minutes of dullness and some swearing to work that out! Once the lump/box combo is out, I'll give it a bit of a clean up:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1150001.jpg

Next job was to disconnect the fuel feed and return from the top of the inlet manifold, then I removed the throttle body from the N/S. This made it a hell of a lot easier to get all the wiring disconnected and out of the way.

 

A quick coffee break and I battled the electrics. Now, I suck at anything electrical, so I used up the best part of a roll of insulation tape labelling everything... I wrote a small description on each connector, and also used numbers so I know where it all goes when the new engine goes back in. So after an hour or so, I was faced with this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1150002.jpg

Nearly there! Next I disconnected the speedo cable, and undid the bolts at the bottom of the hub assembly which enabled me to separate the lower arm from the hub. The driveshaft on the N/S slid out, draining the last gearbox oil. The O/S one was a little trickier, but all I had to do was remove the clip from the boot with a screwdriver and it popped right out. I bagged both ends to stop crap and dirt getting in there.

 

So all that is now connecting my engine and gearbox to the car is the engine mounts. I rigged up my engine hoist and attached some straps to take the weight:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1150005.jpg

And decided to call it a night as the light was failing. So, next job is to remove all the mounts (and probably order some uprated ones from BakerBM), then hoist the engine out.

 

A couple of questions spring to mind:

 

1) Will a boggo Workmate be man enough to take the weight of the engine/gearbox?

2) I've gone for one strap under the gearbox, one on the O/S around the back of the engine and by the O/S top engine mount, and one around the inlet manifold and between the sump and gearbox. Does this sound safe and reasonable for lifting to you more experienced guys?

 

All answers and tips gratefully received!

 

More to come Weds afternoon

[max0 5]

OK, update time:

 

Had a half-day today, so spent the afternoon attacking the Pug.

 

First job was to realise that I hadn't undone the hub nuts before I jacked the car up - Lessons Learnt, 3) Don't make the same mistake. This made me a complete cock! I slung the 1.9 wheels back on and lowered it to the floor. I attacked the nuts with a breaker bar and an electric impact wrench and they eventually submitted. So it was back in the air and wheels back off for the 205.

 

Second job was to take off the battery tray, first supporting the gearbox underneath with a trolley jack / axle stand. Lessons Learnt, 4) There are 4 bolts attaching the tray, not just the two you can see... Took me five minutes of dullness and some swearing to work that out! Once the lump/box combo is out, I'll give it a bit of a clean up:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1150001.jpg

Next job was to disconnect the fuel feed and return from the top of the inlet manifold, then I removed the throttle body from the N/S. This made it a hell of a lot easier to get all the wiring disconnected and out of the way.

 

A quick coffee break and I battled the electrics. Now, I suck at anything electrical, so I used up the best part of a roll of insulation tape labelling everything... I wrote a small description on each connector, and also used numbers so I know where it all goes when the new engine goes back in. So after an hour or so, I was faced with this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1150002.jpg

Nearly there! Next I disconnected the speedo cable, and undid the bolts at the bottom of the hub assembly which enabled me to separate the lower arm from the hub. The driveshaft on the N/S slid out, draining the last gearbox oil. The O/S one was a little trickier, but all I had to do was remove the clip from the boot with a screwdriver and it popped right out. I bagged both ends to stop crap and dirt getting in there.

 

So all that is now connecting my engine and gearbox to the car is the engine mounts. I rigged up my engine hoist and attached some straps to take the weight:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1150005.jpg[

And decided to call it a night as the light was failing. So, next job is to remove all the mounts (and probably order some uprated ones from BakerBM), then hoist the engine out.

 

A couple of questions spring to mind:

 

1) Will a boggo Workmate be man enough to take the weight of the engine/gearbox?

2) I've gone for one strap under the gearbox, one on the O/S around the back of the engine and by the O/S top engine mount, and one around the inlet manifold and between the sump and gearbox. Does this sound safe and reasonable for lifting to you more experienced guys?

 

All answers and tips gratefully received!

 

More to come Weds afternoon

Alright Si,

 

Looks like you have been having fun!

 

ive got my engine on a workmate (iron block) and its been fine for the last few *cough* months. The gear box easy comes off. You could sit the engine on the floor but a workmate helps if your wanting to work on it as your back will soon start to hurt.

 

Sounds like its well strapped up, When we took my engine out we just used two straps with hooks onto 2 little eyes near the rocker cover.

 

If you need a extra set off hands on wed evening give us a pm

 

Andy

[frodo_monkey 0]

Another half-day!

 

As soon as I got home I went out to the garage to get engine #1 out... But was distracted by a little parcel from Stew205 (www.BakerBM.com, thanks for the very rapid delivery!):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1170001.jpg

All the new uprated mounts ('as stiff as poss' type) here, as well as a couple of strut top rubbers for later. We like the 205GTiDrivers 10% discount as well!

 

So onto the engine. All the mounts undid easily (wow! ), so it was time to get the donk out. I had a couple of goes upwards, but with just me there to steer the lump and man the hoist, I discovered that getting it through the bottom and lifting the car was going to be easier. I soon had it on the deck (bar knocking the front panel a couple of times ), then jacked the car up a smidge and dragged the motor out from underneath (my back hurts now ).

 

Leaving me with this to clean:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1170003.jpg

And this to clean then dismember (expect to see in 'For Sale' shortly):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1170004.jpg

So after giving the garage floor a bit of a clean where the last oil drained, I headed inside. I picked up my piston ring on the way home, so fitted that to the piston, the piston to the liner, then the big end cap to the bottom of the conrod. With that all torqued-up, I put the (newly Grp A-sprung) oil pump in position and bolted it in:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1170005.jpg

I then put on the sump gasket and the sump, and did up the 8 million bolts that attach it. Leaving me with this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1170007.jpg

So next job is to pick up my head and new inlet manifold and R1 carbs from Shenpar (next week or the week after hopefully), then fit the headgasket, head then torque it down. With that done I'll be able to sort the timing.

 

Outside, I'm going to give the engine bay a bit of a clean, then fit all the stuff from BakerBM including the strut top rubbers. I've also got Polyrace bushes to go in, and one brake line to replace. I'll also be separating engine and box, and stripping the ancils from that engine ready to fit to the new one.

 

[frodo_monkey 0]

Small update:

 

I now have a sparkly engine bay and subframe , took about 30mins with a paintbrush and degreaser then a quick rinse with water. I thoroughly recommend it!

 

I then fitted the new O/S top engine mount and buffers, and fitted the new strut top rubbers - if anybody wants two as-new Std rubbers, give me a shout. I took off the starter, and the next job was to separate the gearbox and intermediate driveshaft from the engine... Took me ages to spot the 4th bolt (Torx-headed one at the back of the block), after that it became a lot easier!

 

I'm taking the lower engine mount housing and new mount to my local engineering shop to get the old pressed out and the new pressed in, I figure I'll drop him the gearbox at the same time so all the crud and grease gets blasted off.

 

Garage getting fuller, list of jobs slowly getting shorter... Update and pics to follow soon!

 

Frodo

Edited January 21, 2007 by frodo_monkey

[frodo_monkey 0]

So, project update time:

 

All the new BakerBM kit is now fitted, including the lower engine mount by the driveshafts. I bought some Polyrace bushes from Rally Design a while ago so am fitting those to the wishbones in slow time; however, I've already had a crack at the ARB mounts...

 

What a sh*tter of a job! To get clearance to take the clamps off, I dropped the back of the subframe, but then couldn't get the new bushes in. So I took the subframe off, unfortunately shearing the front drivers side bolt in the process - the O/S bush eventually went on with a load of brute force and ignorance, but there was no way that the N/S was going to fit (the bush doesn't take into account the 'olive' on the ARB)... So I've gone back to a std Pug one. To anyone trying this in future, I can recommend not getting the Polyrace kit!

 

Thanks to both Richie-Van-GTi and PaulT for helping out at this point, you both rock I then drilled-out the sheared bolt and captive nut from the drivers side subframe mount, and ordered the new bolts and captive nuts from Pug, to be picked up on Weds. So now the subby looks like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1290001.jpg

Its now nice and black after degreasing the hell out of it. The engine bay looks like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1290002.jpg

And the clean gearbox:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1290003.jpg

Next job is to refit the newly-Polyrace'd wishbones. I get my head, carbs and new manifold off Shenpar next week, so I can then time-in the new engine. With that done I'll move the new lump out to the garage, fit the clutch and refit the gearbox. Then I'll be buffooning around with starter motors, alternators etc!

[Dave87 0]

good work mate keep it up how long it take you to clean the box took me a good few hours to do mine.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Dave - I cheated, got somebody at work to blast it with a parts washer

 

This weeks update:

 

Last weekend I finally got a grip and sorted the subby etc out. I fitted the new Polyrace bushes to the wishbones easily enough:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1310001.jpg

Then came fitting the wishbones to the subframe... So. Very. Very. Hard! I am never, EVER buying Polyrace stuff again, they just aren't the right size and it took many expletives and a load of time to get it done. Superflex or Pug own brand for me in future But eventually it was done:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P1310002.jpg

And with that I fitted the subframe to the car - easy enough apart from having to replace one of the front mount captive nuts which had broken. If anybody needs some of these or the appropriate bolts, drop me a PM - had to buy bags of them from Pug so have millions of spares

 

I had a phone call earlier in the week from Rob at Shenpar telling me that my manifold was done, so I went down today to pick it up along with the rest of the gubbins. This is what I collected:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2080003.jpg

In the pic is my head, with the R1 carbs attached via the new inlet manifold. Theres also 2x fuel pressure regs, an inline take-off for a fuel pressure gauge, and a fuel pressure gauge along with some fuel hose and jubbly clips... £363 all-in including the VAT, BARGAIN! A close-up of the inside of the new fanimold, matched to the oval ports of the XU10 head:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2080004.jpg

For info, it would have been £60 or so cheaper had I been using a regular 205 head, this cost a bit more as it wasn't off-the-shelf. A big thanks to Rob and the boys at Shenpar for sorting me out with top kit at very reasonable prices, and putting up with my noddy questions

 

So with the pieces all in place, I decided to refit the head. First I made sure both mating surfaces were totally clean with white spirit, then laid the HG on:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2080005.jpg

I then fitted the head onto the dowels carefully, and put the bolts in finger-tight after greasing them up (I had used an old head bolt to run moly grease onto the threads in the block previously). A big thanks to Anthony here for reminding me that the bolt above the waterpump has two spacers (not just one) - I couldn't remember, and there was no good reason why I had a spare spacer!

 

So the engine as it is now, with the bolts torqued-up as per PumaRacings guide:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a282/fro...ey/P2080007.jpg

I will retorque these tomorrow after letting the gasket settle, as a couple of the bolts wouldn't take the full 75 ft lbs. With that done I will have a stab at doing the timing (for the first time ever, degree wheel and DTI at the ready) and it will be nearly complete

[DamirGTI 323]

respect man ! great job

just where can i buy these : Polyrace bushes ? , and wath improvements made these bushes on car handling ?

 

thanks

[frodo_monkey 0]

DamirGTi - You can get the Polyrace bushes from Rally Design (www.raldes.co.uk), they also do PolySport and Superflex bushes if you don't want the teeth-jarring ride I'll have on my car!

 

Update:

 

Was going to go watch the Rallycross at Croft today, but sadly the missus wasn't up for it - so I decided to get her back by timing-in my new cam!

 

I started off by pointing the inlet lobe of no 1 cylinder at the sky, then set up the dial gauge with a pointer (paperclip) pointing down as near to vertical as I could get it on the follower. I then rotated the cam until I got the amount of lift I expect at TDC (3.95mm in this case). With this done I set a small pointer down the side of the block to the degree wheel I had mounted (err, Blutacked but it does the job) on the crank pulley.

 

With this done I put the pointer coming off the dial gauge down the spark plug hole, and rotated the crank pulley until there was no movement on the gauge. Noting down where this was on the degree wheel, I continued to rotate the crank until the gauge moved, and read off the degree wheel. I then split the difference between the two readings, and rotated the crank so that it was at that figure (TDC).

 

So with it now timed, I laid the belt around the vernier, crank pulley and waterpump, then rummaged in my gubbins box and found the tensioner. With this in position, and the locknut loose, I fitted the spring into the housing then slipped that over the two studs. Having done up the bolts, I'm left with this:

 

 

The cambelt seems taught, and having idiot-checked myself by rotating the crank (it turns freely and theres no resistance ) I reckon 'job done'.

 

A couple of questions though...

 

Should the cam on the cambelt tensioner locknut be pointing where it is (to the 7 o clock in the pic), or does it need to be more to the 9 o clock?

 

And a quick pre-emptive one about fuelling - the fuel feed line in the car is the one with the fuel filter on it coming into the O/S of the inlet manifold, isn't it? Therefore the return has the threaded fitting and goes into the N/S of the manifold? Could someone put up a pic

 

Cheers!

[Dave87 0]

Dave - I cheated, got somebody at work to blast it with a parts washer

 

Arrr no fair . Engines looking great.

Edited February 11, 2007 by Dave87