[project] Nothing To Do With 205's, But Behold!

[M3Evo 0]

Right, priced up the remaining bits of the Tilton clutch I needed to make it work. Turns out the pressure plate and floater were both out of tolerance Anyway, bit the bullet and bought a complete clutch from Super Clutch which will hopefully arrive on Monday.....hopefully!

 

Also, actually managed to make some proper progress with building the engine!

 

Got the crank in:

 

 

 

The lovely ARP main studs:

 

 

 

Caps all on:

 

 

 

Pistons and rods all assembled, I'd forgotten how much of a pain it is (literally) to get the little clips which hold the gudgeon pins in place to go in!

 

 

 

And then got all the bits and bobs put together:

 

 

 

Was gonna say it all seemed to come together really quickly, but of course I'd cleaned everything before hand and done the rings etc so really all I needed was the main bearings!

[Guest p whack]

this car is looking good gonnna be awesome!

[M3Evo 0]

Cheers dude, much appreciated

 

Have been slowly plodding along with the engine build.

 

Got the oil pump and drive all in, and spent aaaages cleaning up the oil seal housings today.

 

Got new seals fitted to them and they're both on.

 

Thought I'd a chunk of metal kicking about to make the oil seal bit for the nose of the crank but don't unfortunately.

 

Not to worry though, gonna make the oil return for the turbos tomorrow and bolt it to the sump. With any luck most of the crud in that will be soft tomorrow as I've left it to soak over night.

Edited December 27, 2008 by M3Evo

[M3Evo 0]

Been a bit slow over the last couple of days. Spent most of yesterday modifying the rotary table for the mill, so that it would actually work!

 

I would say to anybody thinking of buying a mill, lathe and accessories, that you should work out how much you can afford, and then see what's available used from professional workshops for your budget because the lathe we've got cost a small fortune when it was new, it's 15+ years old, and it's never gone wrong! It's only been through one belt in that time!

 

The mill we've got is s*ite by comparison! You can get good results out of it, but you shouldn't need to strip the drive mechanism down every 10 hours of use! Likewise the rotary table, it's simply been made badly! There's a long hole which the spindle for the worm drive passes. The spindle must've been hammered into this hole at the factory because it'd barely turn and I needed to hammer it out again and rectify the faults it had using.....the trusty lathe

 

Anyway, back to the project

 

Here's the oil return spigots being cut. Could've done this more simply, but fancied making a billet oil return block:

 

 

 

Drilling some holes (thanks Mum and Dad for the clamps, perfect Christmas pressent )

 

 

 

Saved some time and lots of material by just hacksawing off the unwanted bit of metal:

 

 

 

And the finished product:

 

 

 

 

Plus some holes in the sump for it to bolt to and for the oil to flow through:

 

 

 

Ended up taking the baffle out of the sump so make it easier to clean. Seems this poor engine was a bit neglected in it's previous life as the sump was thick with gummy oily-poos. Spent hours and hours scrubbing away at it today to get it as good as it is!

 

The baffle will be re-attached using a little M6 screw and washer, tapped into the place where the rivety bit used to be. (It's not actually a rivet, it's a bit of the sump which is peened over in the factory )

[jplautomotive 0]

hi

 

just read though this whole post as it new to me , some very good work you are doing there

some really good machining , nice to see it being made rather than tryin to buy it

 

keep it up

jonny

[pip470 61]

Love the look of your billet oil return, very nicely made. Your workshop and skill is something for me to aspire too. I too echo a full ppc magazine dedicated to this project. Keep it up.

[hexhamstu 9]

can we see a pic of the car, ive followed this thread since it started but the old pictures dont work anymore...

[maturin23 10]

Stunning work as always matey.

[M3Evo 0]

Cheers for the kind words and support guys, much appreciated

 

I'll have a root around for the very early pictures of the project. The pics on page one are of the first twin turbo beemer I made though and they might've been lost.

 

 

Got fed up with Tilton's suppliers in the UK so I bought a complete and brand new clutch from SuperClutch just before Christmas. Still a twin plate, but all of the sections are thicker so it should be a little more tolerant to road use. I'm beginning to think that the ultra low 1st gear of the 535tds 'box may be a blessing if it means not having to slip the clutch so much to get moving.

 

Just need to sort a release bearing/slave cylinder for it now! I've toyed with the idea of making one using seals from brake calipers but I'm still weighing up the pros and cons of this idea. Will have to see whether there are any OEM concentric release cylinders that might fit, or how much the race type ones cost.

 

 

 

And here's the oil return block in place, with the new arrangement for holding the baffle in the sump. I'm thinking now that it might be an idea to drill a hole in the screw that holds the baffle in, and in the baffle itself, and wire the two together to make sure it doesn't rattle free. It's got a load of RTV stuff on the thread, but whadda people think?

 

 

 

[M3Evo 0]

Was told I needed to tidy up in the machine room yesterday my my Dad. He had a point but I've just been putting it off and putting it off. So that took most of yesterday, as did making this lil' fella as a silly late Christmas pressie for my girlfriend :] He just needs a name now

 

 

 

Back to business today though, finished off the take off for the oil gallery and found a conveniently sized copper washer to seal it.

 

Then made the distribution block which has tappings for the oil pressure switch, an oil pressure gauge and the two turbos.

 

 

 

Really have gotta think about starting these rocker arms as they're what's stopping me putting the head back on!

 

Once that's in place, I can get on with the oil feeds and charge cooler plumbing, bracketry for the pumps and so on.

[miamistu 1]

He just needs a name now

 

Gaylord

[M3Evo 0]

He might look like a cheery chappy, but he's a mean bastard and he's got sharp little hands!....and he's only one thin plasterboard wall away from youuuuuu!

[gazzamec 0]

i dont know if this has already been mentioned but your oil return, it looks quite low in the sump, if its below the oil level it may cause pressure issues in the return causing the seals in the turbo to prematurely fail.

 

just a thought.

[M3Evo 0]

The turbos themselves are a fair bit higher than the sump so there'll be no issues with oil backing up, on the last conversion I did, one of the turbos was really low down and the return was well below the oil level and that didn't seem to cause any problems.

 

Think the oil level drops a fair amount when the engine's running too which probably helps.

[gazzamec 0]

good good, i know on my triple K if the oil return isnt completely perfect and without restrictions the seals are on borrowed time.

 

awesome project BTW carbon is utter porn!

[M3Evo 0]

I must admit was a little worried on the last conversion which had a pair of T28 turbos, but the almost horizontal return pipe from the lower turbo which exited really low in the sump never seemed to cause a problem.

 

There's a good few inches of proper drop from my lower turbo on this conversion so I reckon it'll be fine.

 

Cheers dude, much appreciated

[Dom9 2]

Chop, chop - Where is our update!?

[miamistu 1]

Al's had his missus round for the last fortnight. I think the beemer was the last thing on his mind

[Dom9 2]

Why do I actually doubt that...?

[Uberderv 6]

Great project, keep up the good work. Makes me wish I had a Lathe

[M3Evo 0]

Sorry to keep you waiting Dom

 

Indeed, our lass was here for a couple of weeks, and last weekend we spent trying to make a better airbox for Stu's car out of fibreglass. Unfortunately due to the cold, bits of it have only just started to set (we used epoxy for the first layer and it really didn't like the cold!).

 

Well, not much of an update, but I've finally got around to designing my new rocker arms.

 

They'll be a little heavier than standard I shouldn't wonder, but a good deal stronger / more fatigue resistant (which is what we're concerned with really)

 

Had a measure of the follower pad too, does anyone know why it's so narrow?! I've made mine 2mm wider which, whilst adding weight, should reduce wear on the cam and pad by virtue of lower contact pressure.

 

Anyway, here's what I'm proposing:

 

[taylorspug 7]

They look nice, i will need some stronger rockers for when i get round to putting together my NA engine. Fancy making a second set?

[base-1 17]

Cool, what do the standard ones look like? cough pics cough

[M3Evo 0]

I'm meeting with the owner of a precision engineering firm this week to talk through the design and manufacture of these. He'll wanna make a few sets I should imagine, and it's cheaper for me that way too so if you did want a set Taylorspug, gimme a shout

 

He heee, the standard ones are cast and look like this:

 

 

Trouble is that the castings aren't especially good, and the forked bit has a tendency to snap off if they're frequently subject to high revs. There are billet ones available already, but they cost about £100 each which is just silly money IMO, although that remains to be seen I guess

 

A little bit of work from today I took my manifold to the machine shop when I had the block bored etc. but they said (quite reasonably really) that they'd no way of holding it while it's machined.

 

Here's how un-flat the manfold face is:

 

 

My solution to this little problem is to weld a support frame onto the manifold, machine it flat, and then grind the structure off.

 

So here's the beginnings of the structure:

 

 

Think I can only really get three supports in unfortunately, but might be able to make another one which goes up past the WG pipe:

 

 

And how the manifold sits on the structure:

 

 

I reckon that if I brace up the upstands a bit, I can machine them all down to be exactly the same height above the table which means that they mani should sit as squarely as it can, given that it's bowed!

 

Should be able to get that done next weekend, after which I'm planning on taking the cam and rockers out of the head, making up a dummy head gasket, and then putting everything into place so that I can make the oil feed pipes etc.

[Sandy 189]

Newmans do a set of steel ones for £148+vat, I looked into them for a customer. I haven't seen or used them yet them though.