welshpug 1,715 Posted January 5 no matter how low you run, they shouldn't run out of drivehsaft travel, they should go all the way to the bump stop without issue. 1.6 gti flanges aren't available, base model and 1.9 are, as both were shared across many other vehicles. the modified hubs might bring the flange/bearing inwards, but I doubt by a significant amount. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,715 Posted January 5 you could measure the distance without removing the spring, seeing as you dont need to go beyond normal ride height just taking the weight under the balljoint with a jack will lift it far enough. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArthurH 12 Posted January 6 Phil, at this moment, I can only answer some of the questions you ask. We did buy it as a modified car; the only subframe, 205 wishbones, struts, springs, and hubs we have, are those currently on the car. We do have some 309 wishbones we bought as insurance. We can't use them in a race, but we thought they may allow us to complete a test day if the bottoming out were to otherwise force us to abandon it. We did borrow a known-to-be-perfect subframe while we were still trying to fix the original shell. It fitted the shell mounting holes perfectly, and we could not find a mm of difference to the dimensions of our subframe. We think the previous owner did have a problem, as the bottoming out was there from day one of my son's ownership, but he also didn't build the car and may not have realized what was happening (it took us a while...). If we could borrow a strut brace, it could make an interesting experiment, if it we fitted it while the bottoming out was occurring (easy to induce, we just move the engine a mm or two back towards the middle.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhilNW 66 Posted January 6 Done a fag packet sketch of the suspension (attached) which show the static and moving parts that could result in reduction in end float. Think the next step is to take the measurements without the drive shaft but need to replicate the additional suspension movement as a result of body roll. Do you use the uprated engine mounts? I have been told that some people have added an extra bush to the upper engine mount to limit sideways engine movement. Couple of things I can’t explain to myself yet is 1 – the progressive reduction in end float and 2 – 205s have had a lot of competition use and abuse and I have never personally heard of this problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhilNW 66 Posted January 6 Another thought - presumably other 205 racers in your class haven't had this problem (or confessed they have....). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArthurH 12 Posted January 6 We do use uprated mounts. Under the battery tray is a BakerBM mount, on the OS wing is a 'competition' Vibra technics mount: https://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/peugeot/205/455/PUG402MX/right_hand_side_engine_mount. The car was fitted with this type of mount when we bought it - but we have replaced it with a new one. Experimentally, we put a block of wood where you described to prevent the mount from flexing towards the OS, but it made no difference. There are several other Peugeot 205s on the CSH grid and a lot of 'camaraderie' in the paddock, but none of the other 205 drivers have ever experienced anything like the issue we have. In fact, at least one of them had problems caused by the DS being too short! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhilNW 66 Posted January 7 Things that keep coming to mind... What items have you not swapped ? As it is nearly always the Near side ds on RH corners that fails is there anything unique to that side? (other than the end float) As far as you can tell does the car roll equally and consistently on RH and LH bends? Have you stripped the struts down to see if you getting the full compression (or expansion) of the strut inserts? i.e. are the insert rods bent? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArthurH 12 Posted January 7 The items that have not been swapped are the 'tall' 1.6 GTI hub (which I would replace if I knew where to get a pair), but I have changed the bearing on the NS twice (once on the OS). The strut and (GAZ/Leder) insert are as we bought the car, but the they have been sent back to the manufacturer for servicing, which includes checking for straightness. I'm not aware of any suspension component unique to either side, other than, of course, the DS extension on the OS Thinking back, I'm less certain now that we have had it bottom out on the OS, so for the purpose of this debugging, lets assume it never has. My son is pretty good at feedback; I am confident that if he could feel a difference between the two sides, he would have mentioned it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhilNW 66 Posted January 12 Any progress on taking the measurements etc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArthurH 12 Posted January 12 At this time, I have just the basic measurements, taken with the driveshaft out, the wishbone reattached, and the car level, i.e., the subframe parallel to the ground. By good fortune, I have a good quality, 500mm steel rule that fits through the bore of the hub, so I am confident the accuracy of the measurements is +/- 1mm The distance from the diff bearing face to the inside of the hub bearing face is 430mm. From the diff bearing face to the outside of the hub flange that the hub nut tightens against is 486mm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
