SRDT 245 Posted January 8, 2023 10 hours ago, DamirGTI said: Then those motors/actuators as such aren't suitable for use in early cars like Ph1 ? unless if connected via universal central locking module for remote lock/unlock (but then the system still wont work manually via key/door barrel) ? Any idea which part number of the main/master drivers door actuator is need/suitable for early Ph1 LHD 205's ? If you also wire the "state switch" correctly the universal control module will act like the original. As for part numbers the grey switch is 6620.01, the black driver side actuator is 6551.18 up to 11/1992 then 6615.03 after that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz D 6 Posted January 8, 2023 I wired my system in today it was so easy. Bearing in mind my was originally a RCL car it was a case of unscrewing the module off the side of the steering column. Picking a + off pin 1, an Earth off pin 2, connecting lock to pin 6 and unlock to pin 9. The hardest part was putting the steering cowl back on as it helps tighten bits of other dash up 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jj007205 0 Posted February 20 Is there a guide for earlier Phase 1/1.5 cars without the module? Would be neat to know the details and wire colours/numbers etc. A remote locking system seems like a sensible and useful addition Thanks in advance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stewal 9 Posted March 10 Just about to do as others have and plumb in the hawk: not sure about one think, does the original RCL unit under the dash still have to be connected or do I remove the plug and piggy back off its connectors. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 362 Posted March 10 Connect negative trigger signal from the universal RCL unit on the white and light blue wires of the loom going to the drivers door actuator/motor for early pH1/1.5 , for later one with OE RCL leave it connected and do the same as above but directly via OE RCL plug/wiring . All the wires on all 205's for door lock actuators/motors are always one white and one light blue .. forgot which wire numbers they are . One is lock , and another is unlock , also forgot which is which sorry getting old thus memmory is a bit dicky ! Anyhow it's really easy , around 15min job .. if you skip messing about connecting the posh indicators flashing feature , myself i really didn't bother with that i did just the remote . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stewal 9 Posted March 11 Thanks for all the advice. I did fit this OK this afternoon. I went all in and fitted the flashing led that came with the Hawk kit and also wired up the flashing indicators with lock/unlock: whilst the steering column cowling was off it was easy to get to the indicator wires behind the stalk. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chipboy 0 Posted July 27 Did all three doors respond to the remote signals, I ask as I intend in putting it into an early 206Gti with no module, so getting into the signal wires from the drivers master module they normally put another actuator on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stewal 9 Posted July 27 Yes both doors and the hatch lock/unlock with the fob and it has an impressive range too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chipboy 0 Posted August 1 (edited) Thanks got one coming to Oz. Might as well tart the old girl up a bit. Just to to be clear connect wires that's all, nothing else? Edited August 1 by Chipboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chipboy 0 Posted August 1 I forgot to add the series 1 here in Australia is the 1.6 litre body which might be similar to your phase 1? It has no smarts the master lock on the drivers door controls the other two actuators obviously by reversing polarity for a brief time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stewal 9 Posted August 1 The Hawk kit has instructions and diagrams for all scenarios so may take some studying but I think the answers will be there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chipboy 0 Posted August 1 I understand electronics (BE Elec) my question is will the diver door which is the master respond to electrical control on the wires lines into it (that it uses to control the other two actuators? its a case of RTFM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRDT 245 Posted August 1 On 1/7/2023 at 12:08 AM, SRDT said: With no remote control the grey "actuator" on the driver side is just a glorified switch that can power the real actuators. With remote control the actuator on the driver side is a real one with a "state switch" that tell the control module if the door is locked or unlocked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chipboy 0 Posted August 1 Thank you, I had a thought that the external control may make it work but no free lunch here. It needs external control, the remote feeds into it alone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites