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ALEX

Coin Tray Base - Reproduction

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ALEX
2 hours ago, idoari said:

Do you print LHD trays too?

I have printed a single base for someone in Portugal by just mirroring the design for LHD.

The Feedback he left said it fit fine and hes happy with it, so I could technically do the LHD version.

I've a few issues though, a complete tray assembly with lid hasn't been tested and I don't have the spring for the LHD as that is also handed so these will need to be sourced.
I'll update on here if I ever get around to sorting the other hand. I'm currently working full time again...yay!.. so i could be a while.

 

 

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idoari
4 hours ago, ALEX said:

I have printed a single base for someone in Portugal by just mirroring the design for LHD.

The Feedback he left said it fit fine and hes happy with it, so I could technically do the LHD version.

I've a few issues though, a complete tray assembly with lid hasn't been tested and I don't have the spring for the LHD as that is also handed so these will need to be sourced.
I'll update on here if I ever get around to sorting the other hand. I'm currently working full time again...yay!.. so i could be a while.

 

 

I have the spring. i just need the lid and the base because there are both broken. i tried to plastic weld it but with no success.

i think the hinge design is very poor from the factory since it almost always break there.

 

 

 

 

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ALEX

 

Idoari No promises but I did plan on printing a LHD tray assembly at some point. You’ll be the first to know if I do.

 

The base is the best option for the OEM look and I’ve finally managed to print one for myself. It’s something of a novelty to test it every time I sit in the car now. I ended up squirting a few small drops of silicone spray on the hinges as it felt a little stiff and squeaked, now it glides open.

I’ve also noticed the flocking glue can take an age to cure properly. I’ve got a few of the original ones I did at the start and the flocking is safe to press hard down on now without leaving a finger print. But be careful for a few month if you buy one of my trays.

 

The hinges have been “beefed” up over the original with consideration on the grain of the printing process to make them as strong as possible.

The lids are pretty much an identical copy of the original. I did some destructive testing on both parts and they can still break with force but no more easier than the originals.

I offer warranty with these (within reason), so if you’ve bought one of my trays and broke it when installing it, then contact me and I’ll look into sorting out a replacement for you.

 

I was considering modelling up the underside of the lid as it looks like it’s made from 2 parts glued together. If anyone has successfully split one of the lids without destroying it then let me know as I have a spare lid I could use that I don’t want to ruin further without knowing it can be split.

 

This project is still an hobby so production will be limited. So if you want a tray, probably grab one while you can. With work picking up I’m currently undecided on making a business from this.

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ALEX

To replicate the texture finish of the original I bought some paint. 

20201207_204211.thumb.jpg.1bf92c0a3d7de90b564cf192d3f32e71.jpg

Thought I'd experiment with the cheap stuff first. Just need some nice weather to finish it.

Winter sucks :(

 

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ALEX

Results came out quite well

20201212_104407.thumb.jpg.f6787cd7a0dbdbded5adbe924828479d.jpg

Think I need to do more sanding on the tray lid though. Maybe use another coat of primer next time. 

20201212_104418.thumb.jpg.5550bdc21e72cccee72b4336f146749c.jpg

 

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ALEX

So after spending a weekend sanding and painting (really not the weather for it LOL!) I fianlly got a finish I'm happy with.

I believe its a better finish than the unfinished 3d print and I plan on selling the trays again with the textured finish in the near future.

I also have the left hand springs on order, the price has gone up on them but it does mean I can soon create the LHD version of the tray assembly as well as the RHD version.

 

I have had the odd request on ebay asking if I could do the small blanking triangle separate as this part seems to be getting quite rare. I have two designs, both are my own modeled from scratch, one is a near copy of the original the other is thicker. There are some ribs on the rear face, not sure what they are for so I filled this area with extra plastic for strength for the thicker design and it still fits fine to the dash.

As mentioned previously I only use PETG for my parts now as the hot summer will warp/melt the PLA ones, especially on the top of the dash where these fit.

 

I have also noticed some competition .... I hope I was the inspiration for it! :-D

Not sure about forum/ebay rules on here, but if the link gets removed it's item number 164549010962

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-GTI-XS-etc-Reproduction-Instrument-Surround-Triangle-Trim/164549010962?hash=item264fe2a612:g:8h8AAOSwX2pfxVYC

 

There is an STL file of the triangle on thingiverse (thing:3662454) to which this looks like it could be from, It is the LHD version, but to mirror the design it can be easily done in the slicer software.

Not sure if the seller is the owner of the file, but if not I hope they asked for permission first as there is no mention of the designer on the listing.

I did download it myself and it is a very good copy of the original, it might even be a 3d scan of the part? 

I did compare it with my own in the slicer. Mine are the bottom 2 in the screen shot below with the LHD thingiverse one at the top.

compare.thumb.jpg.9d70df100daeeb4ebeab77252e2b5775.jpg

 

 

I print mine standing as shown, this gives the best strength on the clips, they are as strong if not stronger than the original in this direction.

3D prints are weakest on the layer adhesion (think of it like grain in wood) it splits easier on its length than against it. Hence this is why I designed the thicker version.

If you bend my copy on its length (middle one) it will break easier than the factory original injected molded part. So the even thiner one at the top.....well if its printed flat to the bed it will be fine, but the clips will be very weak where they are stressed.

I am limited to how much I can alter the design to compensate for the limitations of 3d prints, but if you are in doubt of its strength, then look for an original part instead.

If anyone buys one of my parts and break it by installing it, then let me know I'll be happy to sort a replacement.

The theory is that the thicker one at the bottom is much stronger, and I assure you it is, whether its as strong as the original or not is another matter, I cant exactly go around snapping rare original Peugeot dash parts to find out.

 

 

 

Edited by ALEX

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ALEX

Finally managed to get a coat of paint to a standard I'm happy with. Currently only able to get the textured paint in black and I can only compare the finish to my phase 1.5 grey dash.

Pictres below show taken with flash on and off.

1796940022_withflash.thumb.jpg.6645919b1b4037a6f11cd84589f766ba.jpg777824610_withoutflash.thumb.jpg.4d9de682cda8a496fca7612d8a10d7f3.jpg

 

 

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Malcolmk

Alex

are you still able to produce these?

I need a base and lid for a RHD.  in grey

Thanks

Malcolm

Edited by Malcolmk

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ALEX

I've had reports that the lids are warping in hot weather. The testing I did on hot days with PETG didn't have the spring fitted, and I'm assuming that is what's causing the warping. 

Currently I'm looking into making them from a nylon, but it might be a while before I get set up to print at the higher temps. 

 

 

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Malcolmk

Hi Alex

thanks for the reply understood.

I am sure I will still be interested when this has been overcome.

 

thanks

Malcolm

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NikMoore

Hi there Alex - not sure if you still on this thread but I would be very interested in one of your coin trays. I spent several hours at the weekend trying to figure out how the spring is retained as mine is fully intact and my lid is fine too. I now realise that there is a little cylindrical tab the spring sits on which is missing in mine so all the time I spent trying to make a torsion spring with wire and fit it in without it spilling out when I opened it was wasted! Also all of the flock lining just came off when I cleaned it, so its time for a new one. Right hand drive, for a 1992 Phase 2.5 1.9 GTI. Posted to Northampton?? Cheers Nik

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ALEX

Hi

This project has been on the back burner for a while now. I’ve still not got around to buying a better printer, (or an enclosure for mine to do the higher temp stuff.)

The cointray base should be fine in PETG, I’ve not had any feedback of problems and mines been fine since (though car hasn’t come out of the garage LOL).

Not sure when I’ll get time as I’ve been mega busy lately but I’ll PM you if I get one printed.

 

Another lockdown this summer would be lovely.

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James85

Hi Alex, just wondered if you had planned on making these again, really after a base for a rhd 1989 205 gti

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ALEX

Finally got around to making these again. 

Full assemblies currently available on a popular selling site.  I will only be doing a limited run when time permits'.

 

Improved over the last ones but are now sold as unpainted. 

The Lids are now made from ASA instead of PETG. Only for RHD cars at the moment.

 

 

 

2023 ASA 1.jpg

2023 ASA 2.jpg

2023 ASA 3.jpg

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jlarkin

Alex

 

Good morning

 

Can you help with replacement for my 1992 Gentry?

 

Both the top and the insert/lock have bits broken off (don't know what the previous owner was up to?)

 

Top colour is variously described as brown/beige/grey ???

 

And what might be the cost?

 

Regards

 

John Larkin

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Malcolmk

Hi Alex

my parts arrived today. look really good and fit well thanks.

As you say they are unpainted so currently contrast the grey surrounding dash of my XS. Do you or anyone else know the grey shade required if I choose to paint?

 

Thanks

Malcolm

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ALEX
40 minutes ago, Malcolmk said:

Hi Alex

my parts arrived today. look really good and fit well thanks.

As you say they are unpainted so currently contrast the grey surrounding dash of my XS. Do you or anyone else know the grey shade required if I choose to paint?

 

Thanks

Malcolm

Hi try Volvo Dark Grey 228 (Halfords maybe sell it?)

I was told its a close match to the phase 1.5 grey. You might need to prime it first with a texture paint like shown above before applying the grey.

I've been putting a spare infill triangle with the trays for you to experiment painting. 

Both infill triangles are ASA material just the shade darker one is a different brand I was trying out.

 

Keep us informed of your results.

 

Edited by ALEX

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farmer

1653668380 aerosol

 

Thats the grey offering from Peugeot in cans

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Malcolmk

Thankyou both

Malcolm

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jlarkin

Alex

 

Good evening

 

Repeating my message to you before Xmas. It maybe didn't get through as I'm new to this.

 

Can you help with replacement for my 1992 Gentry?

  

Both the top and the insert/lock have bits broken off (don't know what the previous owner was up to?)

  

Top colour is variously described as brown/beige/grey ???

  

And what might be the cost?

  

Regards

  

John Larkin

 
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Malcolmk

Sorry John

i was confused. I am a recipient of the plastic parts made by Alex

 

so I think this is intended for Alex not me

 

Malcolm

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jlarkin

Malcolm

 

Sorry

 

I said I was new to this!!!

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Malcolmk

That’s fine good luck

Malcolm

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Telf

Nice but a 205 without a busted coin tray just doesn't seem right...:lol:

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Fla673

Hi Alex , and everyone else , long time browser here , deep into my 205gti rebuild , off for respray strip down since last week .. I bought car here in  ireland just before the 1st lockdown , stored it drove it and stored it again .. bought bits and pieces for the next couple of years ... im nearly sorted on parts .. except a bleeding coin tray ! Rhd 91 black dash , Are you still printing them Alex ? The progress is fantastic to read from 1st up to last post .. 

Regards , Ciaran Fla 

Ps will chuck up some pics when I can sort through the forum layout . 

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