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Krash67

Old Gits 205Xs- Sleeper/Track intentions

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Krash67

Hi All,

 

Recently procured 205xs, a previous owner spent some time and effort (would be good to hear from them). I bought this from a guy who was local to me, who decided to go GTi instead and such this was surplus to requirements. It has a 1400 unit, but since I'm used to 200bhp plus, the drive home was a little tedious and hair raising with a few electrical gremlins i.e indicators failing, windscreen wipers slowing down and the main lights being no better than a pair of "pound land" candles!

Anyway the car needs a few small jobs doing, which I don't mind and keeps me out the way of our lass. However the  bigger intentions are Engine, suspension and brakes. I'm wanting this to be on rails and stop on a dime and leave a few german cars at the lights. 

I've just come away from another french brand (Renault), so Pug engines are new to me and would be grateful on what would be the best budget engine (for now) . I realise that these weigh next to nothing so not looking at 200+ 

Any suggestions, recommendations would as always be gratefully appreciated.

 

The yellow one was my last project...

 

Photo 16-12-2017, 14 49 50.jpg

Photo 16-12-2017, 14 48 52.jpg

Photo 16-12-2017, 14 48 35.jpg

XSP_2073.JPG

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Graz

Was this on eBay with the single 40 Weber carb on it?

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dawning

Yeah this has been on eBay for ages, looks beautiful! Strange that it seemed tedious, my xs feels nippy but it's probably the most powerful car I've owned lol. Tu 16v 1.6 is a good option, I feel that retains more of the xs heritage being a Tu also gearbox would stay ma which might make things a little bit simpler. Makes more sense as well, gti6 engine too heavy, mi16 oil starving issues. Might be nice staying with carburettors too save having to rewire everything although not sure how that works with a newer block and Mots.

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td_dan

Nice motor iv also got an xs running on bike carbs not sure which.  Bought is as a non runner which turned out to be a fuel leak not allowing it to fire.  Once i got that sorted it fired straight away.  Ill be selling the carbs if your interested as im going for the previously mention 1.6 16v.

 

36696137185_e12567ac6a_h.jpgs-l1600 (4) by Daniel Clifton, on Flickr

Edited by td_dan

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Krash67
On ‎16‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 7:25 PM, dawning said:

Yeah this has been on eBay for ages, looks beautiful! Strange that it seemed tedious, my xs feels nippy but it's probably the most powerful car I've owned lol. Tu 16v 1.6 is a good option, I feel that retains more of the xs heritage being a Tu also gearbox would stay ma which might make things a little bit simpler. Makes more sense as well, gti6 engine too heavy, mi16 oil starving issues. Might be nice staying with carburettors too save having to rewire everything although not sure how that works with a newer block and Mots.

Yeh want to stick to 1.6 for now. Carbs or TB's? haven't decided. The ECU and wiring doesn't phase me as I did the mod on clio200. But agree carb makes it a lot easier.

 

One thing I am wondering about is whether the exhaust is the small side. Whats the normal bore for these?

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Krash67
45 minutes ago, td_dan said:

Nice motor iv also got an xs running on bike carbs not sure which.  Bought is as a non runner which turned out to be a fuel leak not allowing it to fire.  Once i got that sorted it fired straight away.  Ill be selling the carbs if your interested as im going for the previously mention 1.6 16v.

 

s-l1600 (4) by Daniel Clifton, on Flickr

At this minute, as mentioned above, I don't know which way yet.

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Graz

Can you get some decent photos of the current carb set up? I'm planning on doing a single 40 conversion on mine. Will be following your build tho. 

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Krash67
6 minutes ago, Graz said:

Can you get some decent photos of the current carb set up? I'm planning on doing a single 40 conversion on mine. Will be following your build tho. 

I'll get some posted at the weekend, others can see if interested

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dawning

Possibly the reason why this felt a bit slow is the wheels, 13 " wheels work best on these it according to people who have tried both. Might be worth trying to get the most out of the car as it is before swapping the engine as they are really revvy and great fun to drive. Standard exhaust should be fine, I belive there are 2 different bore front pipes, and the option of straight through center section. I replace my whole system with a new stuff from pug but the new front pipe looks a bit thinner than the old one unfortunately and it's a different part number listed for all Tu powered 205's whereas the original one was specific to the tu3s.

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jamie_1992

Il buy the engine if you decide to swap it out 

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Krash67
On 19 December 2017 at 2:39 PM, Graz said:

Can you get some decent photos of the current carb set up? I'm planning on doing a single 40 conversion on mine. Will be following your build tho. 

@Graz photo's as requested. Excuse the wire on the choke, temporary fix for the cold days.

 

Photo 28-12-2017, 17 24 06.jpg

Photo 28-12-2017, 17 24 15.jpg

Photo 28-12-2017, 17 24 26.jpg

Edited by Krash67

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Krash67

Since getting the car haven't had much opportunity to have a more detailed look round, but since following up on the advice of checking out the earths for the poor performing lights noticed a few possible electrical gremlins that could cause mayhem at a later date. So with Haynes manual in one hand and a cheap electrical circuit design program in the other. Will be setting about all new wiring harnesses, which will encompass more modern relays, fuse boards, battery isolator etc  but incorporating the original dash switches and clocks.

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GusRallye

Cracking looking car this one, good purchase.  You've got some good plans for it also!

 

If you decide to replace the engine, I'd give the in the carb, inlet and exhaust manifolds a new home.

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Tom Fenton
5 hours ago, Krash67 said:

Since getting the car haven't had much opportunity to have a more detailed look round, but since following up on the advice of checking out the earths for the poor performing lights noticed a few possible electrical gremlins that could cause mayhem at a later date. So with Haynes manual in one hand and a cheap electrical circuit design program in the other. Will be setting about all new wiring harnesses, which will encompass more modern relays, fuse boards, battery isolator etc  but incorporating the original dash switches and clocks.

To be perfectly honest I wouldn’t use your time and effort in this way. The standard wiring is only vunerable in exposed areas. Once you repair these areas the rest of the loom and fuse board performs the task in hand perfectly well. Yes it’s a bit busy and untidy in the fusebox area I will grant you. But it’s a lot of work for not much gain, and that’s from someone who has wired a few cars from scratch. 

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Graz

That’s great thank you. Your manifold is a proper job. I’m looking at fabricating a manifold for mine. 

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Krash67
On 29 December 2017 at 5:39 PM, Tom Fenton said:

To be perfectly honest I wouldn’t use your time and effort in this way. The standard wiring is only vunerable in exposed areas. Once you repair these areas the rest of the loom and fuse board performs the task in hand perfectly well. Yes it’s a bit busy and untidy in the fusebox area I will grant you. But it’s a lot of work for not much gain, and that’s from someone who has wired a few cars from scratch. 

I understand and agree and like yourself have done this a few times as well, not only for myself. I will be at some point moving towards a standalone ECU , this to cover all aspects of future upgrades as well as bringing some reliability and flexibility at present. and such this will require a dedicated harness.

The present wiring harness is looking suspect in a few places and such to "splice" in new parts will sort this out but have worked on cars where when this has been done and when tracing have comeacrsoss 5 different core sizes and colours, ranging from twisted, soldered and connection block hidden under tape!....just  goes against the grain for a electrical engineer 

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Krash67

As I'm getting squinted with the Pug's, is it possible to convert the rear drums to disc's. Noticed that the rear drums have a 4 bolt stub axle.? What's the typical conversion?

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welshpug

typical conversion is to source a whole 1.9 axle, it is possible to swap the longer disc stub axle spacer and wheel bearing assembly and the brake caliper bracket though.

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Krash67
On 1 January 2018 at 1:01 PM, welshpug said:

typical conversion is to source a whole 1.9 axle, it is possible to swap the longer disc stub axle spacer and wheel bearing assembly and the brake caliper bracket though.

Thanks, just like to know. Don't think this could justify that amount of braking potential at the back end.

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Krash67

Can someone help me out. The wheels I have on, are these C2 steels or rallye versions?

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welshpug

neither, Citroen C5 aluminium wheels.

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Krash67
6 minutes ago, welshpug said:

neither, Citroen C5 aluminium wheels.

:) thanks. Meant C5

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Krash67

More help needed. From trawling through the website and  google getting myself familiar with the TU3 & 5 engines, its left me with this query for mine.

The engine installed is alloy block, so this would suggest the T3S (85hp)? unfortunately the alloy tab providing the engine type .....is lets say....decided to be show lesser information  than a blank piece paper. 

I have a dyno for the car running at +100bhp. It has the 40 webber and 4-2-1 manifold. However I wouldn't of thought these alone would give the extra approx 20% increase in power, they maybe some contribution from the head. Looking at the head the only signs i have are the casting number, that being 9610923010.

Would the more knowledgable members of the  collective impart their views. 

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welshpug

look for letters stamped/cast into the head, its fairly common with psa stuff.

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dawning

Xs head is cast with tu3s somewhere can't remember buy it was quite big and obvious once I took the head off and cleaned it.

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