Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

[welshpug 1,692]

1000 rpm is rather high, should be 850-900 warm.

 

some shunt though is 'normal'    just how they are with the analogue control, they are a lot better with a more modern engine management system.

[Leslie green 139]

Thanks Mei , having never driven another one I can't say whats normal other nineties cars I had had later motronic injection setups with cats  and I don't remember them being at all "shunty" at low speed . I do though have a spare afm so will stick it in and see if it works to compare . 

[welshpug 1,692]

indeed motronic was a good step further on over jetronic, especially when using a map sensor instead of the AFM.

 

having a full throttle position sensor as opposed to a switch, and digital ignition control smooths things out.

[Leslie green 139]

Sorned up for winter now , got to a local show before that at the end of sept after 4 hrs cleaning it.

Got the little speed / wind noise trims that go between the door and roof on a Gti fitted with 3m  Uhb tape ,  5 mm and 16 mm wide . I spent about 2 hours trying to take the old tape/glue of with thinners and a screwdriver , it was a total pain to remove then put the boot side carpets in I bought which were a bit fiddly as the rear seats and trims had too all come of again, I don't have any rear speakers in the C pillar yet and the 2 wires go to the drivers side originally for big speakers in the parcel shelf and one looks to be modern speaker cable so will need to trace those back .

  The heater fan had a issue where the dial is not going round all the way since I build it up  , the cable is catching on something but lately its decide to not work at all now so also needs a look soon too.

Edited October 9 by Leslie green

[Leslie green 139]

[chris 417 mi 50 2 Cars]

12 hours ago, Leslie green said:

Sorned up for winter now , got to a local show before that at the end of sept after 4 hrs cleaning it.

Got the little speed / wind noise trims that go between the door and roof on a Gti fitted with 3m  Uhb tape ,  5 mm and 16 mm wide . I spent about 2 hours trying to take the old tape/glue of with thinners and a screwdriver , it was a total pain to remove then put the boot side carpets in I bought which were a bit fiddly as the rear seats and trims had too all come of again, I don't have any rear speakers in the C pillar yet and the 2 wires go to the drivers side originally for big speakers in the parcel shelf and one looks to be modern speaker cable so will need to trace those back .

  The heater fan had a issue where the dial is not going round all the way since I build it up  , the cable is catching on something but lately its decide to not work at all now so also needs a look soon too.

Carpet bits look good ! Where are they from as I might aswell do mine soon then before back seats etc go in 

[Leslie green 139]

Chris the wheelarch felt is from newton commerial ebay number 372863003751 and I just fitted as is no trimming needed as the trims hide the rest of it , I used spray contact adhesive on the felt and the arch and cut a slit for the washer bottle pump to poke through on the drivers side and another each side so the 2 back seat screws could poke through , oh and poked a hole for the seat belt reel bolts .

Edited October 10 by Leslie green

[Leslie green 139]

Trying to sort a couple of issues so half the dash out again , the first was the speedo cable is clicking at low speed and its very annoying so took the centre out which was quite  rusty and gave it a good greasing . I looked at the routing but it seems ok .It comes out the top so speedo clocks need to come off .

   The second was the fan dial hits a hard stop about 3/4 of the way round and the fan doesn't really get going to there so no fan. I thought it was a cable issue but its not ,it looks to me like the centre dial gear has been forced past its stop and has jumped a few teeth , I bought a replacement as I couldn't get the gear off but fitting this is very tricky , The long cable I took of at the heaterbox and it has some snap in round clip that I can't get back on near the bulkhead ,plus the 2 spring clips at the front of the heaterbox  I can't get to snap in that secure the cable outer sleeve to the box  either and have managed to snap the mount off the heaterbox on left side after trying to squeeze the clip with pliers . On a positive note I now have a working fan lol but a few more bits of plastic have fell of the binnacle mounts taking them off again .

Edited October 14 by Leslie green

[Leslie green 139]

This is how far the fan dial goes before hitting a stop ,It starts in the wrong place too so gear is not aligned right . I tested the 2 little bulbs holders back lights  and one is a dud so check the 2 on the replacement also duds , does anyone know if they can be got as id rather replace them now as getting back in would be a major pain .Bulb holder sitting on the dial .

Edited October 14 by Leslie green

[chris 417 mi 50 2 Cars]

Just been looking at an old thread about this, the lamps are a “r509t”

hope this helps  

Edited October 14 by chris 417 mi

[Leslie green 139]

Cheers Chris 

[Tom Fenton 1,604]

They are a capless bulb, you can pull the bulb out of the holder from the front, and replace. I bought a box of 10 for £3 from my local auto electrical place recently, as the dash backlight bulbs kept going one by one, so I changed them all, as I got fed up of removing the clocks. It is a 286 1.2w 12v capless bulb you need, also fit the instrument cluster.

[Leslie green 139]

Thanks Tom I did try removing one at the time but it didn't budge so assumed they were one piece. I've some ordered but I did see 2 watt led ones as im sure the originals are dim even when new but wasnt sure if they might take the paint of the symbols etc over time .

[Leslie green 139]

Tried fitting 2 bulbs in the heater controls but neither work now , one was working before and are a right pain to fit , I thought id blown a fuse,nope all ok  and  the little backlight above the ashtray works fine , was stumped ,measured 5v between the 2 pins to the track for the bulbs , no binnacle back light bulbs work either ,thought it was the dimming adjuster wasn't plugged in but no id left a blue plug of the back of the clocks lol/ Now working fine !

      The replacement dash bulbs complete with holders I bought are absolute shi*e and will not rotate or lock in place so have ordered just the bulb parts and await their delivery . I hadn't the heater cable pushed down the spring clips before trying to snap them into place which is why they wouldn't lock out and kept popping off once you know they are easy fitted ! The one I snapped of tried to plastic weld the mount  back on but snapped it off again on left side so drilled a hole a little further back  and cable tied it in , all dials now nw rotate correctly . 

     The little plastic bar below the dials had split so I used a hot stapler I bought to join it and its such a useful piece of kit and will sort a few jobs , as all the plastic is so brittle.

Got a couple of genuine used window switches as my passenger window wouldn't go up/down from drivers side, fine from passengers ,its better but still not great ,plus the 4 tangs had snapped of the switches so they were lifting out of the holder ,replacements much better . Not sure what the issue is with the lazy window now ,possibly poor earth ?

   The clock has a blue bulb holder and the bulb doesn't seem to come out of it like the others and won't  light up even with a good bulb so no idea whats wrong there .

Edited October 27 by Leslie green

[bacardincoke 46 1 Cars]

My passenger window was verrrry slow after reinstallation... adjusting the position of the runners (trial and error, took a while unfortunately) plus lightly lubricating the inside faces eventually did the trick, was surprising just how little they needed to be off to dramatically slow things down.

[Leslie green 139]

Its not so much mine is slow but its reluctant to move at all , once its going its fine , I noticed the nylon bushes that run on the horizontal metal onto the glass do not rotate like they are siezed on both sides ,could not free them up when out . I will move the runner a little like you said as it could well have something to do with it making it hard to start cheers martin.

[Tom Fenton 1,604]

Often the clock is not lighting up due to dry solder joints. I’ve mended a few like this. Remove it and it literally just needs a touch from a soldering iron to re flow the joints, and it will likely work properly again. 

[Leslie green 139]

Cheers will try that Tom. Wondering why the clock bulb holder is blue when the rest are black , may be a different wattage .The bulb wasn't for coming out of it and Im not sure its supposed to , its broke now lol.Had a spare clock but its a dud not working at all.

Edited October 29 by Leslie green

[SRDT 211]

Tom is right about the solder joints, even your spare clock can probably be revived that way.