Engine Rattle

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Not necessarily in the tank directly but sounds like water has gotten in somewhere. Maybe worth draining what's left out, start the car to use up what is in the lines and then use fresh. Though if it is water in the fuel it'll eventually go as you either burn it off or add new petrol.

 

That or check the intake, though wouldn't have thought water would remain in there for long.

Edited October 11, 2015 by scbond

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

OK,

 

Had the pump out and drained all the fuel out. Checked in a clear container. No fuel settled at the bottom. Pump is now out so I'm wondering is it worth checking its flow?

 

I started it this morning - ticked over. Pulled out onto driveway and immediately started Stuttering when accelerator depressed.

 

Found a weird guaze with large ball bearings inside rattling in the tank. Pic to follow

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Heres the last dregs of fuel from the bottom of the tank - looks ok

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Any heres the mystery guaze thing i found whilst rooting around in the tank

I'm totally stumped now- no idea whats going on!

Edited October 11, 2015 by Telf

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

That gauze looks like one of those spurious "lead replacement" cons from the early 2000's when they phased leaded petrol out.

 

I would suggest you should compression test the motor next to check its mechanical health. You can chase a running problem though ignition and fuel components all day long but if its down on compression it will never run right no matter what you do.

[welshpug 1,622]

have you tried a known afm?

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Ive got a spare AFM checked the unit for good resistance as per the link i followed - seemed ok- fitted it and made no difference.

 

Im borrowing a compression checker tomorrow off a mate- its on the list of checks

 

Thanks guys

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

as Ive got the fuel pump pipes off I thought I might attach some hose to the pressure side and turn the engine over to see if it working ok- What sort of flow rate would I expect?

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Checked the Fuel flow from the pump. I connected directly to the pressure output of the pump and turned the ignition - here is a video of the result - I think its ok?

 

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Ive also checked the output on the return side of the regulator - seems ok-video below!

 

https://youtu.be/TkSEF1wihao

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Sad times today- I thought maybe I'd fitted the HT leads on the dizzy incorrectly after I'd changed them. Got home this evening and after texting Jackherer (cheers mate!) several times was confident all was good.

 

Started up but still popping a little- I thought no problem I will take it for a run and hopefully it will clear out the abused parts. All good- pulling nice for about 5 mins. Slowed down and bang another pop this time from the front of the car.

 

free wheeled home. Double checked my leads and everything else (even got the wife to check-this is how annoyed I'm getting!). Pulled the dip stick - stinks of fuel. Now i'm presuming this must be coming via the piston rings? I'm, going to compression test it tomorrow evening but my feeling is the mighty 1.9 may be giving up the ghost after 247,000 miles - sad sad times

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Fuel in oil could be due to a bad component in the injection. Not necessarily the fault of the rings. However with the mileage you state then it's likely to be well worn out by now. However that's where our wet liner engines are great- new set of liners and away you go.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

I have done a compression test with the following results: 1 - 172psi

2 - 178 psi

3 - 174 psi

4 - 178 psi

The results seem a little high- I took out all the sparks and turned the engine over for the same about of time for each cylinder

 

Checked it twice to make sure.

 

I'm not really sure what to do now!

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Could my faulty starter motor be causing an issue- it sticks during start but does release- clutching at straws now...

[welshpug 1,622]

results look perfect for healthy rings on a standard 8v.

Edited October 13, 2015 by welshpug

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Look good results, I wouldn't read too much into the actual numbers, just that they are nice and even.

 

What I would also do is squirt some engine oil in each pot then test again, see if the readings stay much the same or increase.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

I thought Id write a brief summary of what I've done and think I know:

 

99% certain the Coolant sensor is OK- Swapped anyway- resistance at the unit and the wire into the ECU checked- identical.

 

Leads changed

 

Fuel output at pump checked - seems ok as per video.

 

Fuel return from Regulator checked - seems ok as per video -fuel is returning to the tank

 

AFM resistance checked - within limits. Smooth resistance as the flap opens/closes. Track visually checked - scored but ok.

 

Wiring resistance checked from AFM to ECU - OK

 

Throttle switch removed and resistance checked fully open/closed.

 

Tachometric relay replaced

 

ECU replaced

 

Compression test -passed (less a leak down check)

 

 

Currant symptoms:

 

Starts OK. Idles fine at 950 rpm (hence probably not a Air leak?!?)

 

Can be heard clearly popping at the exhaust during idle. No smoke. Misfire appears constant.

 

If left to idle it will eventually started to hesitate and it has a massive backfire or just stops.

 

Driving - Runs fine for 5 to 10 minutes - usual power throughout the range - no hesitation. Will start to hesitate and then chokes - with accelerator pressed in no power- either backfires and clears or stops completely.

 

No water in the oil.

 

No loss of water

 

Oil appears ok although possible fuel smell

 

Temps and pressures are all as normal

 

Next course of action:

 

Unsure- possibly stripping out most of the engine except the block/head and visually inspecti all wiring

 

Complete replacement of all ignition components for new/recon - AFM especially.

 

Friend thinks maybe the fuel regulator/injectors may be at fault - unsure about this

 

Anybody any thoughts?

 

Thanks

 

Paul

Edited October 14, 2015 by Telf

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Condition/age of spark plugs?

[Dizzee stuff 33 1 Cars]

Have you tested the ignition coil and associated wiring ?

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Tom,

Sparks are new 4 pole type fitted at last service. Less than 1000miles old.

Dizzee,

I've had a sparkplug(actually tried all 4) attached via the HT lead to the coil.Spark to the engine appears fine. I don't therefore suspect the coil

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

 

Driving - Runs fine for 5 to 10 minutes - usual power throughout the range - no hesitation. Will start to hesitate and then chokes - with accelerator pressed in no power- either backfires and clears or stops completely.

This sounds very much like dead AFM to me.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Hey Tom,

Is there anything else I can do to test the AFM?

the readings I got indicate its serviceable- but I've never had one fail in almost 20 years of owning these cars. Can they be reconditioned?

[Dizzee stuff 33 1 Cars]

Thats not really a reliable test, you need to check primary & secondary resistance values or substitution. I would also check distributor and wiring.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Ok I can do that- what values am I looking for primary and secondary?

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Just found a thread stating 0.8Ohms primary and 6.5k secondary. Will check when I get home