New To 205 And Mechanic(Ing) - Resto Advice

[jackherer 543]

The fundamental point that needs to be reiterated here is that you really shouldn't take a 205 GTI to Kwik Fit. If you want to run a 205 GTI and you don't have the time to work on it yourself you have to take it to a specialist that knows them. It might cost more in the short term but you'll save a lot of money/time/frustration in the long run. And in fact it probably wont even cost more in the short term.

[Alan77 78 1 Cars]

Thanks jackherer, with you.

 

Does anyone know whether my current exhaust is bastardised? I've looked on a few sites and can't see a non-cat downpipe with hole for lambda sensor.

 

Klarius (Timax) seem to get mentioned a fair amount. Have found:

cat - http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/PEUGEOT/205/1.9/1992/__/79/630368/exhaust-part/

non cat - http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/PEUGEOT/205/1.9/1992/__/79/630186/exhaust-part/

 

My VIN is VF320CDK225019364 which I believe makes it a XU9JAZ. The site in the links above think it should have a cat fitted.

 

FYI, i had a Klarius back box less than two years ago and the baffles in it broke loose right on the verge of 12 months.

I changed the middle and end section out for Walker parts. Bought them from Mister Auto, they do exhaust components at pretty decent prices.

[Richard2005 2]

Hmmmm. Well this is a kick in the beans...

 

So Am I better off buying the below from Mister or getting a stainless exhaust without cat and getting a boss for a Lambda welded in? Figure the stainless will last longer than me.

 

Catalytic Converter WALKER (Ref: 18356)In stock £314.57

Middle Silencer WALKER (Ref: 17178)In stock £65.41

End Silencer WALKER (Ref: 15499)In stock £47.88

 

Anyone know of a 205 specialist near me? I'm in Kent, but just inside the M25 (Bromley).

Edited May 2, 2014 by Richard2005

[Richard2005 2]

Lambda1

 

The above link shows the current exhaust (if it helps).

Edited May 2, 2014 by Richard2005

[PAGOS 15 4 Cars]

I'm NOT sorry and Tom is absolutely correct .Once you start adding bends , elbows , 'T' pieces ,joins or reducers to a piece of hose or pipe you increase the risk of leaks and interfere with the flow .Any reduction or increase in pipe diameter also alters the pressure , which directly affects the state of the gas/vapour , with a very probable chance of this turning into a condensate , which in a very short period of time accumulates as MAYO . Furthermore , by interfering with the pressure- volume -flow rate ratios you also introduce another very important aspect to optimum engine performance ----- temperature ! A very good example evident to every one on a daily basis ,of the affects of the relationship between , hot gas - pressure - flow and temperature is your fridge ! Who wants to say that they drive hotpoint .

[GLPoomobile 958]

Getting back to the original points.....

 

Hi,

 

Apologies in advance if I sound dumb here.

 

I bought a K plate 1.9 last week. With the exception of Bilstein dampers, it’s original. I plan to keep the car for many years and kind of perform a rolling restoration as I go. The trouble is, I know little about the 205, though have got the Haynes manual, and have minimal mechanical practice/knowledge – I’ve changed discs and pads on a couple of cars and that’s it.

 

My first thoughts for the car are proactive maintenance.

1. Timing belt (last replaced in 2009 about 8k miles ago. Had a water pump at the same time)
2. Service – oil and filters (no idea how
3. Replace hoses

 

I’m not a total monkey, but have never replaced a timing belt before. I’m unsure whether I should tackle this or get a pro to do it. Thoughts?

 

From what I’ve read on this site, Baker hoses seem to be the way to go. Shall I get both water and oil? I’m guessing the rubber is 22 years old so would have seen better days.

 

I had the tyres replaced today - they were legal, but 11 year old rubber makes me nervous. The exhaust is being replaced on Friday as the baffles sound as though they've collapsed.

 

Are there other areas I should review/replace in addition to the above?

 

Thanks in advance

Richard

 

The 205 GTI is a good car to cut your teeth on when it comes to DIY mechanics. The cars themselves are fairly simple, but most importantly, you have the backing of one of the best and most knowledgeable forums around to provide guidance. Really the things that are likely to piss you off are stubborn corroded fixings.

 

Some general tips from me to mull over

 

1. Most important rule of all - If an experienced forum member tells you a job is easy, go with your gut instinct and if you think after reading the instructions that it may challenge you, then it most likely will. The guys on here who are experienced spanner handlers often forget how difficult some jobs can be for those first timers. Likewise, if they tell you a job takes 15 minutes, give yourself 2 hours.
2. Don't take on too much and let the project escalate out of control. If you can, keep the car roadworthy at all times. As soon as it comes off the road for one job, it can escalate in to numerous jobs, you get overwhelmed, the car ends up off the road for years and you lose interest.
3. Timing belt is a must, as is doing the tensioner and water pump at the same time, but I think you'd be biting off more than you can chew if you aren't that experienced yet. It's not massively complicated, but can be an arse of a job. I've only done it once on my old 1.6, and for some reason I really struggled to get the belt on. It was as if the tensioner wouldn't slacken far enough to give me enough slack in the belt to slide it home at the last point in the run. I got there in the end, but it was a fight, and that bit alone made it more hassle than many people would have you believe the job can be. an isolated occurrence perhaps, but these are the things that can trip a novice up.

 

I think you're on the right track with your 3 suggestions. Do a comprehensive service as per the Haynes - engine oil and filter, gearbox oil, brake fluid, coolant, air filter, spark plugs (and maybe leads) etc etc and this will ease you in gently and build familiarity with the car. also, and this probably sounds a bit wanky, but spend time just looking at stuff. Get under the car, lie on your back and look at the floor pan and under the engine etc, examine it bit by bit slowly, understand what each component is, look for rust and leaks etc. The more you study, the more you understand, and the more confidence you can have in taking on jobs. Read the Haynes workshop manual as if it was a novel, cover to cover, more than once. I can't emphasise this enough, giving yourself a head start by being visually familiar with the bits you intend to work on make any job much less daunting.

 

That's just the beginning, now go and change that oil......

[Richard2005 2]

Hi GLPoomobile, thanks for the advice.

I have timing belt and tensioner on order from Peugeot. Should be here Thursday. My Haynes workshop manual hasn't been delivered yet, but will study it ready to replace the timing belt next weekend (new baby permitting). Oil filter and oil are also on order, (5W30 oil got that from the forum). Also have a new sump plug and plug seal on order - there's a small oil leak, haven't been under the car yet, but hoping it's this (very cheap if not).

 

In other news my bolsters arrived from Dave at https://205gticovers.com. What a great chap he is. Fab service.

 

 

The exhaust is still driving me nutty. Have found the servicebox from the forum (didn't know it existed). The part number for the cat on the mister-auto site doesn't match servicebox. SB says 1706 21, Mister says PEUGEOT : 170408 - 170451 - 170462 - 170492.

 

Euro car parts list cats for my reg number. These are React products and cheaper direct from React. Annoyingly these don't list manufacturer part numbers.

 

Hope the gurus on here can shed some light/provide advice.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Bad news, 5/30 isn't really suitable. 10/40 or 15/40 is what I would use.

[grandos 16]

Just a note you mentioned you have bought 5W30 oil, I think that maybe a bit thin, usually it takes 10W40 or 15W40 grade oil. The oil itself doesn't need to be all singing all dancing stuff either just a reputable brand semi synthetic will do nicely.

Oops beaten to it!!!

[Richard2005 2]

Bugger. Thanks chaps. Will pick up new oil.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Cheap CAT's are ***** basically, You may get a year or 2 out of them and fitment is bad and performance is normally restricted, Yes OE ones are allot but you could always find one from a 306 etc and have that welded in

[Richard2005 2]

Hi Miles,

But if I need to find someone to weld in a 306 Cat, would I be better off getting someone to weld in a lambda boss? It doesn't have a cat at the mo and has passed it's MOTs

 

Just weird that the more expensive Walker cat doesn't match the OE part number.

 

Do any folks on here have phase 2's and crossed this bridge already?

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

i replaced my cat and centre section a couple of years ago, i got a genuine cat off ebay and a centre section from the link below its made by Klarius which are meant to be good.

 

http://www.rsjmotorfactors.co.uk/product.php?pid=PG251D&a=search

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Not sure if we have talked about it, But what ECU does you car have, Jet or Motronic? Another way is the Dizzy cap Black?

[Richard2005 2]

Thanks James_pug - I'm going to bite the bullet, order and try it myself.

 

Miles - it's a black dizzy. According to the VIN lookup I did, it's moronic 1.3

 

 

Next stupid question - jacking points. In order to put axel stands on the seem jacking points, can I jack the front via the subframe and the rear via the beam?

[jackherer 543]

Yes, that's the easiest way to lift the whole car with a trolley jack.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Jack under the front subframe, I also put the stands under the front subframe near the rear mount bolts. Much more stable than using the sills really. At the rear jack under the rear beam main tube and axle stands in the same place.

[Richard2005 2]

Fab. Thanks Jackherer/Tom.

 

Really appreciate all the advice I'm getting on here. Thank you.

[Richard2005 2]

May have some time to play on Saturday. My timing belt and roller tensioner have arrived from Peugeot so plan to replace. After checking the Haynes manual, do you guys use the special tool for checking tension or just aim to get it as before?

 

text from Haynes:
Models with eccentric roller tensioner
Note: Peugeot specify the use of special tool (SEEM C. TRONIC type 105 or 105.5 belt tension measuring equipment) to correctly set the belt tension. If this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described here is used, the tension must be checked using the special equipment at the earliest opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds until the belt tension is known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

I have always tensioned timing belts by eye. Aim to be able to twist the belt 90 degrees along the length on the longest run between pulleys. If its too tight it will whine especially when the engine is hot and expands.

[Richard2005 2]

^{Champion, thanks Tom.}

[Richard2005 2]

Right, last (hopefully) numpty question relating to cambelt. Re-reading the manual as advised, and it suggests jamming the starter ring gear. Is this easy to locate as I can’t find other references to it in the manual. I’ve searched other forum posts and one suggest putting the car in 1^st gear as this effectively locks the engine enough to undo the crank pulley bolt. Is this the route you guys take?

 

 

Text from Haynes:

Remove the clutch bottom shield. Have an assistant jam the starter ring gear while the crankshaft pulley bolt is undone. This bolt is very tight. Do not jam the pulley by means of the timing dowel: damage will result. Remove the bolt and washer.

 

 

Again, apologies for the stupid questions, but would rather be cautious than cavalier when it comes to potentially bending valves. Thanks for you patience

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

I have a windy gun so buzz the bottom pulley bolt off with that. But otherwise i would lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver then undo the bolt with a breaker bar.

By all means attempt the 1st gear method but my experience is that the springs in the clutch plate allow it all to wind up to the extent that the bolt doesn't easily come undone.

[Richard2005 2]

Ah, an excuse to buy an impact wrench...

Thanks (again) Tom. Will try to lock the fly wheel (though really tempted to go and buy a new toy)

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Be warned that the pulley bolt can be F.T. so you will need a decent gun to get it off, a cheap one may well not cut the mustard.