1.9 Gti Running Very Rich, Low Mpg

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Hello there. Bear with me, as I am a complete and utter amateur.

 

I bought a 1993 1.9 GTi recently, 65k on the clock and in v.good condition with a full service history. She runs actually really well, with a fairly rock solid idle. There are only a few issues I have discovered so far that you hopefully can help me with:

 

It is drinking a phenomenal amount of fuel. I haven't measured it, but I know it's down near single figure MPG. Strong smell of fuel but this has reduced after I put a standard exhaust box back on it (it had a 3" 'sports' exhaust on it when I bought it ).

I have changed the plugs, distributor cap, leads, cleaned the MAF and throttle body, fitted new air filter and changed the oil/filter. I have a coolant temp sensor on order (part #: 0280130026) Will this do the trick? Performance doesn't quite feel as good as it should with a noticeable lag in initial acceleration.

I should add that there is an intermittent illumination of the engine management light. The seller told me that it's been doing that since he bought it 10 years prior.

 

Also another annoyance; The courtesy light doesn't come on when I open the drivers door. The passenger door works when it feels like it and manually switching the light on also works intermittently. I opened it up and saw the switch on the drivers door only has 1 connector on it but 2 prongs. I cannot find the 2nd connector anywhere?!

 

Also related, the left driving light doesn't work. I changed the bulb and still nothing. What would be an obvious place to start?

 

Thanks in advance. I'll get there! I have given myself a couple of weeks off work so would like to get her sorted now while I have the time!

 

 

 

 

 

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Might be an ECU temperature sensor fault.

 

As for the curtsey light not working.

 

Change both the switches in the door pillar, they are bad for going.

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Might be an ECU temperature sensor fault.

 

As for the curtsey light not working.

 

Change both the switches in the door pillar, they are bad for going.

Is that the same as the coolant temperature sensor, blue colour? (I have read half the threads on this forum before now). Got one coming tomorrow, hopefully it's going to solve it.

 

Should the door switch have 2 connections to it, or just 1?

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Yeah that's the sensor try a new one of them.

 

It has two connectors on the back but only one is used as it earth's through the car.

 

They are about 4 quid each and available.

[jord294 87]

0246.16 iirc, can also play up.

 

Blue temp sensor on water housing under dizzy

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

0246.16 iirc, can also play up.

Sorry what does that mean?

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Andy was giving you the Peugeot part number of what could be at fault.

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Ah righto, this illustrious sensor that i'm getting tomorrow again. The symptoms do seem to fit. Here's hoping I can change it without losing half the coolant!

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

I will get the curtsey light switches part number up tomorrow before I hit the sauce.

[welshpug 1,627]

0246.16 iirc, can also play up.

 

Blue temp sensor on water housing under dizzy

 

one digit off, its 0242 16. or GSF part number 929BM0140 or bosch part number 0280 130 026, as he has already ordered.

 

 

you can test it with a multimeter, the AFM can give symptoms like this too (its not a MAF sensor)

 

as you mention the EML illuminating then I presume you have a Motronic ecu and a cat, with a lambda sensor, check the sensor is present, I'll try and find some checks you can carry out on this as well.

 

 

door switches are 6366 78, screw is 6925 W3.

 

 

ref the driving light, its usually corroded terminals in the two pin yellow plug about 18" up from the lamp unit itself, it'll be near each headlamp, I cut mine out and fitted superseal connectors in their place.

Edited December 31, 2013 by welshpug

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Nice one! Have ordered the door switches but I think the actual light needs investigating too as it only comes on manually if you bash it a bit. I'll add it to the list!

 

Was hoping the EML would be related to the coolant sensor too but will look at the lambda. The light seems to come on at high revs when ranting then go off again on 'normal' driving.

[stufarri 98 3 Cars]

There is a process for 'reading' the fault codes from the ECU generated by the lambda probe and other sensors - I needed to do this on my cat equipped 1.9 when is struggled under load. It seems that mine didn't like a brand new ignition amplifier - I swapped it for a second hand one and all was fine.

 

The fault codes are readily available on the internet, the sequence/flashes of the K light indicate the failure. It can be read with 2 wires using the brown plug near the cam cover.

 

No doubt someone less inept than me will be along soon to provide more info on this as I can't remember the exact process.

 

Best of luck resolving the problem.

[DamirGTI 327]

Motronic 1.3 is really easy to check for faulty codes .. they're two digit codes , and theres just a few of them .

 

There's an green 2pin connector in the engine bay , RH side near the fuel filter (looks similar to the injector connector , just green colour) , ground the connector terminal 1 , switch the ignition ON and count the MIL/K light flashes ..

 

Here's the test procedure along with the faulty codes explanation :

 

http://www.205gti.com/downloads/xu9j2_ecu.pdf

 

D

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Well, I got the driving light working which is nice. Welshpug you were bang on about the yellow connector. Cleaned it up with some electrical contact cleaner and she's shining like a beaut.

 

Tried this code reading lark. Is this the right connector? Dark green, drivers side of the engine with a couple other loose single-cable connectors not connected to anything? Tried connecting both terminals to engine body with a croc clip but couldn't get anything to flash.

 

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Would it be worth changing the lambda sensor anyway??

 

Also, while I was there, I spotted this loose cable over on the passenger side of the engine hanging loose:

 

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And this thing hanging off. Isn't this the ignition amp or something, should be on with thermal paste etc? The paste behind it has dried, there's only one bolt and it's hanging off not touching the metal behind.

 

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Didn't get a change to change the coolant sensor today because it's been raining hard all day. Will do that Thursday.

 

Filled up today. Got 16 miles from just under quarter of a tank. haha!

Edited December 31, 2013 by Bobbafett

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

That's the ignition amp the blue thing.

 

Should have paste on the back.

 

paste can be bought from PL world etc.

[S@m 156]

The white two pin connector is only for models with ABS, i know this because i asked exactly the same thing first time i saw it.

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Could a faulty lambda affect the fuel consumption also? This is only a 'weekend' car but i'm not going to be able to afford to drive it at all with this current MPG! For £30 it might be worth changing anyway I guess.

 

I'll get a couple of new bolts for that ignition amp and put it back on with some thermal paste. Got some lying around from when I built my PC somewhere.

[welshpug 1,627]

very much so.

[dcc 855]

Its heat transfer paste.

 

I didnt notice such a big difference from lambda sensor when it was unplugged on mine.

 

Worth checking your afm and ofcourse the tps.

[jackherer 543]

I'm surprised it's not misfiring with the ignition amp like that, does it not even hesitate occasionally at 4/5k RPM ish? Even if you aren't feeling anything it still might be misfiring enough to trigger the engine management light.

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

I'm surprised it's not misfiring with the ignition amp like that, does it not even hesitate occasionally at 4/5k RPM ish? Even if you aren't feeling anything it still might be misfiring enough to trigger the engine management light.

Pulls like a train over 4k. I've never driven a 'perfect' one though so don't really have anything to compare it to.

 

I'll scrape the old stuff off tomorrow and re-attach it with some new bolts. It doesn't appear to be affecting anything currently though.

Edited January 1, 2014 by Bobbafett

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Changed the ECU Temp Sensor this morning. As well as some new ignition leads and iridium plugs. The old plugs which were normal NGKs were only a week old but sooted black (all 4).

 

If anything the car feels a bit slower now. It still smells of fuel when running. One thing I did notice is the radiator fan seems to be coming on more?

 

I do have a rather embarrassing question but genuinely can't seem to find an answer. How high should the coolant be up in this bottle? Because all the guides i've found show a see-through container. This is black metal.

 

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Also does anyone have an recommendations for a good garage in the Somerset area who can take a look at it for me (and do the cambelt at the same time). Just went in to an independant and they quoted me £350 to do the cambelt and didn't seem to have even heard of a 205 GTi.

[welshpug 1,627]

Thats a normal phase two plastic tank.

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Right ok, so how high should the coolant be in it?

 

The plugs I fitted today were BCPR6E IX. They were listed for the car. Just wondering where this power loss could have come from.

[Bobbafett 49 2 Cars]

Maybe just found something. Had a little look for the lambda. Found it, and it looks quite broken. It's kinda hanging off and when I touched it a bit of white ceramic fell off.

 

Where does this connect in? I followed the wires and couldn't see where they connect.

 

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