Broken Block :-(

[James Cornell 10]

Well I have found the offending hole and luckily it is a fairly clean hole and I have found all of the metal so I have put the putty in and I will rebuild it tomorrow morning...fingers crossed.

 

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

That was lucky, you could probably tap that hole out and screw in a grub to seal it with locking thread if you hadn't tried the putty method.

[welshpug 1,622]

have you tried to tap that hole? its rather tight

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

i can imagine but it looks like theres enough space to get a tool in... just

[James Cornell 10]

If the head bolt was a little longer I could tap that into it :-)

[GLPoomobile 958]

Fair point welshpug!

 

tbh Daren was really dead against it, he had a real downer on people patching the blocks with epoxy

 

I need to get the water pump off and see how bad the hole is...

 

Of course he is against it. You repairing your block means he makes no money selling you a replacement!

[James Cornell 10]

To be honest if money and time was not such a constraint I would be more than happy to have a bottom end from Daren, he never puts any pressure on amd he has done some A1 work for me in the past

[James Cornell 10]

Rebuilt and running with no obvious flud losses YEY!

 

Oh my god that little blue wire that connects to the starter is a total bastard to fit once everything else is on lol!

 

The only thing I need to do now is tension the.cam belt as it looked a little wobbly when the car was running so if.anyone has any advice on the best way to adjust the spring type adjuster it would be muchly appriciated

[welshpug 1,622]

Loosen all three nuts, let spring do its thing, tighten nuts.

 

Job done.

 

Check tension on longest run, 45 degree twist without excessive force is about right.

[James Cornell 10]

Ok Welshpug I will double check it tomorrow morning. I think I am just being uber careful because I don't want to look at the cambelt for a few years after I have done this...I need to finish welding the Escort next :-P

[James Cornell 10]

Cam belt is fine, however now I have more issues. I started it up and got the car up to temp and there is a slow steady leak of oil coming from behind the cam vernier cover so I have to assume that something has gone amiss with the cam oil seal but I changed that so I assumed it would be ok, maybe I did not fit it correctly or there is a special way to put it in...I'm not sure...all I do know is it means the fecking cam belt needs to come off again!

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Did you use sealant on the cam caps?

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

When you pushed the cam seal in did you push it all the way in or just enough so it was flush with the edge of the hole

[James Cornell 10]

Daviewonder Was I supposed to put sealent in? I thought the shims just sat on top of the valves and the stem seals ensure that no oil goes into the head...

 

Slo I just pushed the new seal onto the shaft and then refitted the item, however I did do this whilst the cam was in the head, I assumed that it thrust out to for a seal...Does the cam seal need to be applied whilst the shaft is still in the engine?

[welshpug 1,622]

no need for sealant under the cam caps on an 8 valver.

 

you can't fit the cam seal without first fitting the cam

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

No the caps that hold the cams in place. The end ones need sealant applying otherwise oil leaks out between them and the head.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

no need for sealant under the cam caps on an 8 valver.

 

you can't fit the cam seal without first fitting the cam

 

Is there not? I seem to remember having to do it on my 2.0 turbo?

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

The two end caps do need a small bead of sealant, nothing to stop oil leaking between the joint otherwise. Also a small bead of sealant over the "half moon" of the cap where the cam cover seal goes is always a good idea too.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Slo I just pushed the new seal onto the shaft and then refitted the item, however I did do this whilst the cam was in the head, I assumed that it thrust out to for a seal...Does the cam seal need to be applied whilst the shaft is still in the engine?

 

Yes but it shouldn't be pushed all the way in as theres is an oil drain hole right behind it to enable oil to flow through the bearing. If the seal is pushed right in it could potentially block up the hole and result in the bearing either not getting a flow of oil or oil forcing through the seal.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

 

Is there not? I seem to remember having to do it on my 2.0 turbo?

 

I've had my camshaft out of my turbo lump before and never saw any sealant on the end caps or applied any or even knew you had to do that, whats this for? can anyone elaborate

[James Cornell 10]

Oh s*it it looks like I have done a boo boo with the cam oil seal then, hopefully I can do that in a night then. sounds silly but can you zip-tie the cam belt to the vernier and just rest it next to the head whilst doing the seal to avoid taking the belt off? then simply reapply the vernier to the shaft with the belt on and in position?

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

It would secure the belt to the cam pulley but the slack in the belt will cause it to come off of the bottom pulley.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Just take the cam cover off then the cap off holding it and tap it back off then reassamble everything and push it in till its flush with the metal face, same as you should do with the drive shaft seals.

[James Cornell 10]

Sounds good.to me Slowly I will have a.stab tomorrow!

I meant slo, not slowly lol

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Will save all that annoying cambelt and pulley work