[Car_Overhaul] One Thing Leads To Another..

[Kane 34]

It's all coming together!

 

Seats in, these are in dire need of a refurb but unfortunately I won't be able to afford to get them re-upholstered quite yet. I am thinking of getting a leather repair kit and having a go at that. I've seen some very good results online using these kits although I am unsure as to whether my seats are too far gone or not. The bolsters on the drivers side will definitely need repaired and I've found info on suitable repair procedure so will have a go at that. If I'm successful I might actually look into reproducing bolsters as the only current supplier I can find is charging circa £40 a side which seems massively expensive, although this price might actually reflect the process involved I'll have to go do some more research.

 

 

As I mentioned earlier in the build thread I purchased some aftermarket (Denji) driving lamps to replace my cibie units. There is a notable difference when the two units are compared side by side as you can see below although they're not a million miles away. For those of you who are interested in these there is a link on the main homepage of the forum with a details request submission form. Mark who I dealt with was very prompt in organising the order and getting the lights sent out to me

 

 

I spliced in the new driving lights which was fairly straight forward as I purchased some self solder heat shrink connectors. I recommend these to anyone repairing broken wiring etc as it is so much quicker and tidier than crimp on connectors. Fairly straight forward process:

 

Strip wiring to be spliced and insert into either end of connector

 

 

Apply heat, I used a generic heat gun for this. Initially the heat shrink portion of the connector reduces in size around the wiring and as the solder gets up to temp it melts, fusing the two wires together.

 

 

Job done

 

And here they are fitted to the valance

 

 

I then set about rebuilding the front end of the car by putting the bumper, valance etc back on. I can't remember whether or not the bumper bolts came off in one piece when they were removed but either way I couldn't find them today so ended up trimming down some flat headed bolts that I had lying around.

 

 

Although they are not the neatest, they slot into the bumper perfectly and also give the extra advantage over the originals in that you can use a flat headed screwdriver to prevent the head of the bolt from damaging the bumper. There's probably a better way which I'm sure someone will point out but it will do for me

 

And the last few progressive photo's

 

 

 

 

I was really hoping to get it started today although unfortunately I'm still waiting on my multi-plug terminals arriving in the post. Barring a couple of loose ends I think when they arrive it should be good to go

[jackherer 543]

I agree with your solder sleeve recommendation, they are actually specified by Peugeot for repairing damaged wiring too!

[Reebmit 51 4 Cars]

Yeah agreed, I use them all the time, brilliant, never failed yet....

Edited August 17, 2014 by Reebmit

[Kane 34]

So I've been having trouble locating the vacuum seal for my brake servo, yet another one of these things that I've taken off and put somewhere 'safe' but never to be seen again. The problem is these are not available separately from Peugeot, you have to buy the non return valve plastic bit as well which will skin you for circa £25! Plus they don't seem too be a common item to replace so no luck on eBay, oh the joys.

 

My old man suggested that there may be a similar item used on an old mini we have at our other garage and luckily enough for me it's identical!

 

Got back to the car and got it fitted, that left me with everything back on the car ready to have a go at starting it.

 

Since I hadn't used assembly lube during the build, used normal engine oil as I want aware that it'd drain away, I started by pulling out the plugs and squirted some oil down the bores. With the ht king lead removed and with no fuel in the tank I cranked the engine over several times for short bursts so that the oil would have a chance to circulate round the engine. All sounded ok, no nasty noises which was a relief! Next step was to let the oil settle, check oil level and top up as required.

 

As the light was fading I didn't move on any further with the engine starting tonight but thought I'd check the electrical side of things since the battery was all hooked up. Dash all seemed to be working which was good then I tried the lights... No luck there unfortunately. It seems I've messed up plugging everything back in as some lights work and some don't so that's on the agenda for the weekend. Shouldn't be too much of an issue I hope.

[Kane 34]

So today's events didn't quite go to plan..

 

As it was nearing the time of getting the car out on the road to run it in I thought I'd make sure that everything was a-ok prior to starting the engine. This began with trying to get all lights to work which proved a right PITA. Almost all of the terminals had corrosion on them so struggled away cleaning all the plugs and eventually, with the use of a multimeter, I got all lights front and back working as they should barring the driving lamps. Not exactly sure why the driving lamps aren't working, it seems that they weren't receiving any power when turned on so I decided to leave these for the moment as I believe they are not a necessity for the MOT.

 

While attempting to fix the lighting up front I had to replace the two earth connections located on the front panel. To do this I cut off the plugs and used one of the heat shrink self solder connectors that I'd mentioned earlier and joined them up to a thicker earth cable. A ring terminal was then used in place of the original plug and fixed to the body in the same position. Looking at the condition of the light loom on my car I think the next time I go about rebuilding either this 205 or the next I am going to make up a custom loom, the state of some of the connectors is fairly poor and will no doubt fail again in the future.

 

So once all the electrical stuff was out the way it was time for the big launch, unfortunately that was a fairly spectacular fail. Engine was cranking over fine with oil pressure showing on the gauge, albeit pretty low. I didn't read to much into that as I hear these gauges have a tendency of reading fairly inaccurate. Although it was turning over it just didn't fire. After some fault finding it was discovered that there was no power getting to the fuel pump, any ideas why this might be? There was a partially fitted alarm system which I've half ripped out as it was an absolute shambles! Now I'm fairly positive this was an alarm only and not an immobiliser as the only wiring that seems to be fitted is to the solenoids at either door and a live feed from somewhere around the radio area.

 

As I didn't have any of my wiring diagrams on me and I really wanted to get it started I wired in a direct 12v switched live from the battery to fuel pump and hey presto it the pump worked. Let it run for a little while then turned it off and disconnected the feed pipe from the fuel rail, STILL NO FUEL!!!

 

After a little head scratching I decided to disconnect the return fuel line from the rail and was surprised by a shot of fuel to the face turned out I had connected the feed and return incorrectly at the tank end of the fuel line. Swapped them over and tried again and we had fuel going to all the right places . Cranked it over but still no luck. I started by checking the coil part of the loom as I had to re-use the old connector and splice in the terminals. I was never really happy with this and it looks as though a broken splice may be the source of my problems. I'm going to re-do this section but need to go and buy the correct terminals first, hopefully I'll get them ordered up early next week.

 

Apart from the possible break in the coil wiring is there any other major things I should be looking at which might be attributing to my problems? As for the fuel pump not receiving a live feed is there any common faults that might cause this?

 

Thanks

 

Kane

[jackherer 543]

Is the fuel pump relay clicking on?

[Kane 34]

I couldn't hear any clicking. I checked with the multi-meter and I had 12v at the two orange and yellow wires but nothing at the white wire while the ignition was on. Is this what I should be seeing?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Kane, when it comes to your seats give me a shout, I know a guy who is good with 205 seats.

 

Its no big deal for him to hand craft bolsters when required.

 

It's quite expensive to get them done plus the courier, but the results are very good.

 

I might be able to give you a set of very good leathers for your drivers seat, I promised someone else them but I don't think they need them now. I also know I could get the spare seat I have's neighbour for £40, but a bolster is away on it, both seats are same as yours by looks of it.

[Kane 34]

I'll keep that in mind Jack, thanks. Going to get the car on the road first then I'll send you a PM.

 

I haven't been able to get out to the car today but received a phone call from my old man earlier this morning saying he's going out to have another crack at it, it seems though he's still determined after yesterday's failure. As we're getting fuel, with the remote fuel pump switch, we think that the problem is electrical now so he's having a hunt through that this morning.

 

After speaking to him on the phone he thinks that the coil may be goosed as he wasn't getting any power reading at the ht king lead, he's going to confirm this and get back to me though. Does anyone happen to have a spare mi16 coil lying around I could pinch?

[Kane 34]

Just off the phone with the old man again and this is what he has found.

 

Firstly with the ignition on we're getting full 12v from each feed into the coil although the power drops at the king lead terminal to ~8v. This reduces further when being cranked to a value of ~4v. With the king lead attached to the coil, but disconnected from the distributor, a check was made to determine whether there was any spark but nothing there. To make sure that the king lead was not the culprit the king lead was swapped out for one of the other ht leads and still the same. Can someone confirm that it is the coil that is at fault?

 

Ok so onto the relays again. He's double checked the fuel injection relay and it does click when the ignition is turned on so all good on that front. As for the pump relay here is a list of readings that were taken:

 

Ignition on:

Pin 1 (Orange) - 13v

Pin 2 (Orange) - 13v

Pin 3 (Yellow) - 11-14v

Pin 4 (White) - 0v

 

Cranking:

 

Pin 1 (Orange) - ~10v

Pin 2 (Orange) - ~10v

Pin 3 (Yellow) - 9-10v

Pin 4 (White) - 0v

 

To make sure it wasn't a dodgy relay it was switched out with one of the relays in the glovebox and when the ignition was on the fuel pump relay clicked (when plugged into the glovebox) so it definitely isn't the relay that is at fault.

 

Its a bit strange because the relay is getting live feed both on ignition and cranking over pins 1 2 and 3 but nothing coming out at pin 5 and subsequently no power going to the 6 pin multi-plug. Anyone got any ideas what may be causing this?

[welshpug 1,622]

I've never measured voltage at the kind lead, only a spark.

 

an 8v coil will get it running if you need.

 

have you tried a new crank sensor?

[Kane 34]

Although there was voltage coming through the terminal itself when a lead was plugged on and arced with part of the engine there was no spark. I presume the power through the lead is too weak to actually generate a spark. I do have a 8v coil there (cylindrical one) so if I can't get hold of a replacement mi16 one I might give that a go.

 

No haven't tried to replace that, I just thought as it came off of the old 8v engine and it was working then it should be working now. But then again there has been other electrical items that have stopped working since the car has been laid up. Is there any way of checking the CAS with a voltmeter or is it just a case of renew with a known good unit?

[welshpug 1,622]

was the 8v on Motronic too?

[Kane 34]

No it was jetronic

[welshpug 1,622]

jetronic doesn't use a crank sensor.

[Kane 34]

I'm not using any of the original jetronic wiring, I've made up a custom loom and have a CAS fitted to the top of the gearbox.

[jackherer 543]

Which flywheel did you use?

 

And what is the part number on the crank sensor?

[Kane 34]

Flywheel was the one that came with the engine so I presume standard mi16. The gearbox is a be3 off my 1.9 8v as the box that came with the engine was a be1 and I didn't want to have to swap over pedal box etc. I've got a funny feeling the cas came off of the be1 box though. Should I have not fitted it?

 

Not at the car at the moment but I'll get somebody to check and report back.

[jackherer 543]

You can confirm it's the right flywheel by looking for teeth on a ring gear through the hole the crank sensor fits into.

 

8V engines have a flywheel sensor on the gearbox but it isn't a crank position sensor, it's just used with an obsolete timing/diagnostics machine that Peugeot dealers used to have. How long is the lead on the crank sensor? Mi16 sensors are about 150mm but the 8V one is much longer and uses a different connector.

[Kane 34]

This is the part number

 

 

It is the longer one I've got, approx 250mm between plug and sensor. So I take it that I need to get myself a new CAS? Where's best to buy these from?

[jackherer 543]

That one will be fine, I think it is from a late XU10 2.0 or something, it isn't an original Mi16 one but it will do the job perfectly.

 

Can you see teeth on the flywheel through the hole in the gearbox it fits into?

[Kane 34]

Yeah I've just got a photo and it is the correct flywheel as you can see the teeth through the hole as shown here

 

 

Now I don't want to ask this question but can the flywheel be fitted in more than one position? As I remember it there was only one way the bolts lined up but just wanted to make sure.

 

It's there any way to check the CAS to see if it's faulty?

[jackherer 543]

There is a dowel to locate the flywheel so as long as that was there it can't be on wrong. Even if it was the ECU would still see engine rotation and would activate the fuel pump relay, just the ignition timing would be wrong.

 

You can only conclusively test a crank sensor with an oscilloscope.

[Kane 34]

Yeah I'm sure there was only one way that it would go on when I fitted it so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Now if the coil is at fault could this cause the fuel pump to not function? I read on another thread that the coil sends a signal to the fuel relay and subsequently powers the pump, is this true? I'm hoping that a replacement coil, which I'm arranging, should solve the issues I'm having.

[welshpug 1,622]

that's only true for the 8v and the tachymetric relay, the ecu controls the relay on an Mi16.