[car_restoration] 405 T16 Restoration

[welshpug 1,621]

VW group ignition coils do not have the greatest reputation! it may be different with the newer engines, but a very very common fault on anything that's not tfsi, which may be because TFSI isnt that old yet

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Regarding the coils the newest TFSI coils was apparently very good at least for performance for what it is, a standard production car coil.

 

It was a mate that convinced me that these are good value for money, so will just have to see

 

Jeff: You mean spray on coatings? If so I suppose I need to get the manifold shot blasted properly to get rid of all rust etc.?

[JeffR 51]

I was referring to these types of coatings-

 

http://blastfactoryabrasiveblasting.com.au...php?pageid=3936

 

I had a set of Miles' 4-2-1 done this way. I did a before & after comparison & it made a huge reduction to heatsoak through the firewall & floor. These are dipped, so the coating is on the inside as well.

 

 

There was a thread on the 205 drivers site recently about coatings-

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...134040&st=0

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I was referring to these types of coatings-

 

http://blastfactoryabrasiveblasting.com.au...php?pageid=3936

 

I had a set of Miles' 4-2-1 done this way. I did a before & after comparison & it made a huge reduction to heatsoak through the firewall & floor. These are dipped, so the coating is on the inside as well.

 

 

There was a thread on the 205 drivers site recently about coatings-

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...134040&st=0

 

Ok, I guess I have to do some research and see if I can find anyone over here that actually do this type of coatings. The T16 manifold is a heavy lump of metal so it's not really an option shipping it around the world

 

Today I finished off the enginebay heatshield, joined the parts and made a small extra part to fit over the rib that protrudes from the bulkhead.

Turned out just fine in the end, although not the best finish when closely inspected

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Fitted new oil seals to the rear diff today.

 

 

Also fitted the rear arm bearing assy to the arms, so now they are ready to be bolted to the subframe And cleaned up the banjo connectors for the rear cylinders.

 

 

Also repainted the rear diff mount, as I hadn't painted the rear of it last time I painted it, so now it will be ready to go onto the car

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Today I've actually started to look into fitting the rear suspension cylinders. Had to grind a bit on the sides of the extra pipe connection on the Xantia cylinders, but now it it possible to get them into place. Blocked the pipe threads with a steel bung and locktite.

 

By the way.. is it hard to figure out how the "springs" are supposed to be located? I need to find the metal plates and give it a go, but remember I did struggle a bit to remove the cylinders when I took it all apart..

 

 

Have also ordered new pipe unions for 8mm pipe and M14x1.5 threads, so will try to make new pressure pipes from copper. As a backup I still have two of the old pipes at least. Cleaned them in the blaster cabinet.

 

 

I also cleaned up some of the clutch mechanism parts, the release bearing fork weld seem to be kinda porous. Are you strengthening it any other way than just grinding it back a bit and welding some more?

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Mounted the diff-mount to the diff today, after getting some new nuts for it from eBay.

 

 

Also welded up the clutch arm which hopefully gained some strength now.

 

 

However I ran into problems when trying to mount the rear suspension cylinders. Firstly the two mounting plates didn't really fit the Xantia cylinders, so had to do some cutting and welding which was easy enough.

 

 

I have big problems trying to figure out how these "springs" are supposed to be mounted? I can't find a proper picture of it in the parts catalogue either. Anyone got a description for me?

 

[imaS 0]

Look these pictures.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Look these pictures.

 

Thanks, that makes it more clear

 

U tried making the hi-pressure piping from 8mm copper pipe? I ideally like new piping, and the only easily avaliable locally seem to be copper pipe.

[imaS 0]

I was going to refurbish the whole rear beam assembly and had those pressure pipes remade with 8 mm brake pipe (some sort of copper alloy), with old pipe fittings re-used. I haven't installed those ones, but they should be as good as original pipes. I might try them some day, when I find another 4bie. The chassis of my current Mi16x4 needs nearly as much welding as your T16.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I was going to refurbish the whole rear beam assembly and had those pressure pipes remade with 8 mm brake pipe (some sort of copper alloy), with old pipe fittings re-used. I haven't installed those ones, but they should be as good as original pipes. I might try them some day, when I find another 4bie. The chassis of my current Mi16x4 needs nearly as much welding as your T16.

 

Ok, I'll give the copper piping a try then, worst that can happend is that it bursts, but I guess it will be ok.

 

Sadly these cars are getting rusty these days. The galvanizing layer has been used up for a long time ago by now for places where it's typical to get water ingress. I used 2 years to fix the chassi, and just a few days I noticed also the other strut tower actually had a small hole in it, under the sealant towards chassileg.

 

I guess however I'll just drill a small hole in it and fill it with glue. Can change it sometime later if I care, but it's just insanely much work so now I don't care, will get it put together first

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

And once again, big thanks to Charles for excellent service and machining capabilities

 

Recieved this today, front diff with pinions, and the brass ring for the input shaft.

 

 

Just testfitting the old pinions with curved oilways, which are slightly shorter due to the thickness of the diff is altered. However I guess it's possible to use them. But the new design of pinions seem much stiffer as the cross section is constant.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Fuel tank mounted now.

 

 

Also mounted the diff now, even the 4 bolts at the back which is not there in the pic

 

 

The left trailing-arm is also in place now, but the right one is on hold until I figure out how to fix the cylinders in place properly.

 

 

 

Are the cylinders supposed to be preloaded because of this plate and spring? Or is the spring just to keep the plate in place, and the plate just to keep the cylinder from rotating when bolting onto the hydraulics banjo?

 

As you can see this is not working very well at all for preloading the cylinder into place (which I assume is necessary when the car is jacked up and the cylinders are fully extended? Or am I wrong? Will it always be preload due to the hydraulics and the relatively small "stroke" between the tho rubber-buffers?

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Cleaned up the rear drive shafts yesterday, and today the paint was dried.

 

 

Also painted the rear brake compensator, and cleaned up the LHM tank which had some small surface rust.

 

 

 

Also got the rear ARB mounted now, after having to remove both the rear arms to get it in place.

 

 

[JeffR 51]

Coming along really nicely now. I'm in 'waiting' mode atm. Waiting for shims, springs & mounts!

 

Enjoyed the read on your 2.3 too.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Coming along really nicely now. I'm in 'waiting' mode atm. Waiting for shims, springs & mounts!

 

Enjoyed the read on your 2.3 too.

 

Yes it's nice to have some more "visible" progression now. The rust removing and welding work that took about 2 years didn't really motivate much!

 

I cleaned up the hydraulics pump today, so need some paint after the acid treatment has dried out.

 

 

Regarding the 2.3 it's a really really insane engine, it's so rev happy that it's silly, and also has quite ok torque even at low revs.

It was really expensive also. I believe the T16 engine is costing about 50% of the 2.3. When it comes to new engine parts and machining work.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Painted the pump today, and started to look into the hydraulics wiring.

 

But now I really need quite some help with the wiring for the rear beam, as it is partly missing

 

Is it correct that these relays are controlling the pump?

 

I'm also missing the wiring to the height level sensor, so I'm more or less clueless of what to do about this.

 

This is some more of the wiring loom that I have for the rear, do any of you know where the level sensor wire is supposed to be connected?

 

 

It looks like this (the sensor at least) so the connector is different from everything else I've seen on the 405.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Today the 8mm steel tubing I bought from eBay finally arrived

It was galvanized on the outside, and copper plated on the inside, so hopefully it will last for some time before it's rusted away.

 

Flanged it and bent it into shape, it was quite hard to shape it as it is insanely much stiffer than the copper pipe I made last time. But anyway, I got the shape more or less correct, and it fits now. So just need to do the other pipe also, the short one.

 

 

The flare tool I bought some weeks ago proved to flare the steel tubing quite easy with a good result.

 

 

I also made up a new pipe between the pump and the distributor block. Left out the extra spiral as I belive the copper nickel pipe is so much softer than the orginal steel pipe that it doesn't really matter.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Made up the smaller of the two hydraulic pipes today.

 

Fitted perfectly on first try, so nothing better than that.

Both pipes are mounted on car now, in addition to a new pipe between the distributor block and the brake compensator.

 

 

Also, pump turned out quite ok, but I think I'll give it another layer of paint before I mount it on the car. Still waiting for a new banjo connection for the LHM supply anyway.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Now pump, and it's bracket have got the final layer of paint, and was mounted to the car.

 

 

 

Now I need to figure out what clips etc. that are supposed to be on the subframe to keep the wires/piping and/or hoses in place.

 

I found these in a box, you know if any of these are supposed to go on top of rear subframe?

 

[2anda1/4 0]

Hi

I have a complete rear subframe waiting to be overhauled for one of my cars. It still has all the wiring and components in place. I can take photos of the thing you need to know if that would help

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Hi

I have a complete rear subframe waiting to be overhauled for one of my cars. It still has all the wiring and components in place. I can take photos of the thing you need to know if that would help

 

Thanks, I actually found some pics in my own picture library from when I dismantled it, so I think I will be able to make it more or less as it shall be now

 

So don't bother, thanks for the offer though!

[Guest davetibbs]

I found these in a box, you know if any of these are supposed to go on top of rear subframe?

 

 

I'm sure a lot of those clips are fitted in the engine bay - especially outer clips in the top and middle rows. I think one of the two (can't remember which, I'll have to check) sits in the lower offside rear of the bay, which the fuel pipes clip to.

[Guest davetibbs]

Also, the smaller clips look like the ones that clip the brake pipes to the underside of the chassis.

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

That leather sofa has seated some seriously nice parts during its life!