Turbo First Start Nightmare

[bassline21 1]

hello. yesterday came the day i try to start my turbo conversion. ive got 12v at pump although this will not work i think due to a broken pump. i can here the relay turn on when i turn the ignition but i have no spark. i have wires cc10 and 822 connected to a switch live. bb10,bb20,123,122 and bf5 connected to c/l. i believe this to be enough to make it run but iu have no spark still. any ideas?? i am using the original 205 i.module. would ythis make a difference?? any help or advice much appreciated. thanks

[Anthony 1,000]

205 igntion amp won't work - you need one from a wasted spark model, which although it looks the same, isn't.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Have you run the ecu earth?

[bassline21 1]

ok i have the original 406 one so ill change them over now. sorry daviewonder what do you mean by that?? i believe all my earths are earthed yes.

[bassline21 1]

i have changed the module and still no spark. ive got 0.5 volts goin to the plug caps when i try to start but not enough to get a spark. getting extremely frustrated with it but hey ho

[bassline21 1]

immo is off on ecu also i have a 219 here so this isnt the problem.

[jonnyturbo 3]

you running a perm live to one of the pins on the ecu?

[bassline21 1]

well ive got a s/l to wire 822 which comes from keypad and i believe should put the ecu live??

[jonnyturbo 3]

not 100% as i didnt do my loom but i just know that i have a perm live going to the ecu.

 

looking at auto data pins 27, 2 and 50 are for the imob/keypad

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

ECU Unlocked? I know the 6 ones work the pump but that's it

[bassline21 1]

the 219 doesnt use an immobiliser and i have an unlocked one too. on the distributor plug theres one wire going to a little black box (size of a thumbnail) this wasnt connected to anything so i have bolted to the block. guessing its an earth?? anyone know if this would affect it??

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

the 219 doesnt use an immobiliser and i have an unlocked one too. on the distributor plug theres one wire going to a little black box (size of a thumbnail) this wasnt connected to anything so i have bolted to the block. guessing its an earth?? anyone know if this would affect it??

 

 

no thats a suppresion unit for the coilpack. you can either run it with or without that it'll make no difference.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Mikey S

[jonnyturbo 3]

i could have a look tommorow if i get home before dark which pin on the ecu you supply the 12v too, did you get the ecu i sent? if its the one your using its defo unlocked.

[bassline21 1]

tht would be great mate. yeah i did thanks. thats the one ive been trying. ill try it on a c/l rather than a s/l see if tht makes a difference.

[jonnyturbo 3]

ok il check tommorow, not sure what your meaning by c/l and s/l.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

ok il check tommorow, not sure what your meaning by c/l and s/l.

 

Constant live

Switched live

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

constant live and switched live i assume

[M@tt 77]

things to check

 

Perm +12v

Double Relay pins 8, 11, 14, 15

ECU pin 18

 

Switched +12v

Double Relay pin 2

 

Earths

ECU pin 47

 

diagnostics

when you turn the ignition switch it should close one of the relays in the double relay and you should hear the fuel pump prime/run, you shoud also get 12v appearing at pin 4 of the ignition coil

[bassline21 1]

ok matt cheers. ill get the light out tonight and havea look and post my findings.

[bassline21 1]

right, checked it today and i seem to have 12v to nearly every p[in on the relay with the ignition on. i turn key to start nothing happens. i dont think the relay is closing fitself properly?? why would this be?/

also the yellow sensor at back of engine and the one in heat shielding. . .what are they? and would these make a difference as there not yet plugged in.

[M@tt 77]

you need to check everything i listed previously as that is all it take to get the engine to run (asuming the ECU is unlocked)

 

can you confirm each of those things is behaving as i described?

 

the plug in the heat hielding will be for the speedo sensor (VSS) that its ontop of the diff on the gearbox you will need that plugged in so that the engine fuels properly

[M@tt 77]

also i'm assuming the starter is spinning over and cranking the engine?

 

have you plugged the crank poisiton sensor in ontop of the gear box? the ECU uses this the determine that the engine is running and thus controls the injectors and coilpack, so if this isn't plugged in or working you wont get any fuel or spark.

 

Are the plugs wet after you triy to start the car?? ie it would indicate the CPS is working as it knows to fuel and therefore indicates a problem with the ignition side alone ie its either the ignition amplifier or the coilpack

[bassline21 1]

yeah the cps is plugged in. ive found the three wires for the vss allready with the multi metre. ill doublecheck that. im using a 205 clutch and cps as i had one new already so used this to save money. could this be the problem?? im very confident thats its wired correctly to the auto data sheets. fuels not priming anything at all at the moment so they wont be wet. im using a 219 ecu (with no immo) and have an unlocked one. i can hear the relay click on once so dont thin the ecus the problem. time for some more multi metre action then ill post all the results.

[jonnyturbo 3]

when you attatch the p/l to the battery the relay should click, if it does then you have the right pinout for it.

[M@tt 77]

the relay clicking once doesn't have anything to do ECU, the first single click is caused by the switched 12v to the relay when you turn the ignition on.

 

As i mentioned earlier the swtiched live closes the first relay and provides power to the fuel pump and igniton coil

 

When the ECU receives a signal from the CPS to let it know the engine is cranking it pulls ECU pin 3 to earth closing the second relay and allowing power to go to the other engine components (lambda sensor, injectors, wastgate valve, purge canister valve etc)

 

HTH