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allanallen

Bilstein Grp N/a/challenge

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Henry 1.9GTi

I used b6s (less stiff than the 1038s) with standard bars and a 25mm arb and they were great. Then upgraded to 23mm torsion bars and subsequently to the 1038s. I personally didn't notice a difference back then for road use. As FWD is all about entry speed on the brakes to get it rotating you just cant and most of the time shouldn't drive like that on the road.

 

I have data to backup that the 1038s controlled the rear of my car very well, hub and body modes in warp, heave and pitch. The car was completely stripped out so less weight effectively increasing the damping raito however so this could contribute. this was with 23mm bars and 25mm arb.

 

Then went up to 25mm bars and didn't have any issues with bunny hopping etc.. However perhaps as the dampers get older Ive noticed it really felt like it needed more rear damping especially on circuits with longer loads and less turn it in stamp on the gas type driving. going to a 28mm arb was the tipping point for me where it really felt like it needed more rear damping in compression to get the nose in and set the car up for the mid corner. Hopefully these 2313s wont disappoint. Yet to test.

 

This is all circuit based so no bumps to deal with like the rally boys which is probably why my opinion differs.

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allanallen

1038s, 21mm bars and 19arb, hit a bump at speed and it was like a pogo stick of death! :P over heat very quickly compared to 2313s too in my experience. This is rally use but I used to use the car on the road for fun quite a bit too :)

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welshpug

I have the Gravel dampers with 21's on my 205, I think they are mid way between 1038's and 2313's, work well on the lanes around here, no pogo of death :D

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