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N3VRAM

[misc_work] Introducing My 205 Rallye

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N3VRAM

Good point !! I know a few of the WSMC'ers prefer targa to autosolo, so I think I'll give that a go someday (but in a different car!)

 

Agree on the steering; unbelievable difference. Mine has cut out a couple of times when doing autosolos, as it's worked pretty hard, so I'll give the loop a try and see if that cures..

 

Why a different car, because you don't want to get rid of the 45's? I wouldn't either to be fair :lol:.. I'd be interested to know if adding the cooling loop cures it or not.. i've heard rumors of a multi-venue type targa somewhere might be on the cards which could be interesting and harder on the car if it happens!

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barneys66

Ha! No, just because I've never driven on the loose stuff before and, call me a wimp, but I'd be afraid of damaging my car! Better to get a cheapie to learn the ropes in, then no big deal if it gets bent underneath.

 

Will do on the cooling loop..

Ooh, the multi-venue sounds interesting - will keep an eye out for updates on that.

 

Keep the updates coming !!

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N3VRAM

time to update this thread...

 

ENGINE
The biggest job we have done since the last post was over the summer when we decided it was time to take a look at the engine. In the months previous we obtained a TU3S that came out of a 306 and got ready to strip it down to paint before it went into the car. Whilst we had the engine like this we also replaced all serviceable items including the water pump, timing belt and ignition components. We will be using the bottom end from this engine with the cylinder head purchased a while ago as described earlier in the thread.

 

Before stripping:

2016-12-04%2016.38.29_zpslppkkotc.jpg

 

Once the block was stripped we rubbed it down and degreased ready to paint:

2016-12-17%2015.31.35_zpstwewislj.jpg

 

Paint applied to bottom end, see the old cylinder head for comparison!

2016-12-17%2015.50.58_zps5kgn1ayf.jpg

 

Whilst we had the engine that was going into the car in this state my dad also took the sump pan off and added some baffles.

20170111_205551_zpsdss7nb4r.jpg

 

With the block looking nice and clean we also gave the sump pan a quick rub down and lick of paint.

Before:

20170111_210205_zpsxvo8najl.jpg

 

After:

20170111_213322_zpsppc7qm4k.jpg

 

We gave the cylinder head that was going on q paint too so that everything was going back on the car looking nice and clean, we also had the Newmans PH3 cam to fit and so at the same time we changed the followers and added uprated piper valve springs and a Vernier pulley.

 

ENGINE BAY
With the engine out you could really see how much of a mess the engine bay was so that had a good clean, masking up a lot of the water pipes and fixings to the actual bulk head and then gave everything a proper rub down and paint. We also got some new engine mounts and repaired the OS plastic mud guard which had broken slightly.

 

Before:

20170219_163528_zpsxunifxjl.jpg

 

After:

20170312_145739_zpshwg4il9l.jpg

 

Then all that was left to do was get the engine and everything else put back into the car!

 

CARBS
As most of the stuff we have competed in so far is based around road rally rules we are required to have standard induction equipment (carb or fuel injection) or if we modify we are allowed a maximum of two chokes (single chokes on a pair of carbs or two chokes on a single carb).

We wanted to keep car simple so decided to keep with carbs. We have tried a weber 32 36 dgav before and were quite impressed with the extra breathing it allowed despite it only being very slightly larger in venturi size.. This time we decided to try a pair of HIF44 SU carbs from a 2.0 litre rover we had sitting in the garage from a previous project. SU's don't have a very sexy image but breathe well and give fuel economy. Our twin 1.75 su's would be happy on a 2.5 litre engine and are often used on race and rally minis with the larger 1380 motors so thought we'd give them a try, I doubt we'll ever get near their full airflow potential though.

 

An aluminium plate was cut and we transferred the mounting holes and inlet bores from the standard 205 manifold on one side and then matched them with the rover inlet bores on the other side. My dad works in an engineering workshop so this was easy to do with professional measuring and marking out gear. Once the carbs were on and piped up we got an air box made and added K&N filter on the end, we get a few raised eye brows when we open the bonnet now as you don't expect to see SU's on a 205! :lol:

 

]20170529_171219_zpsiwhyvlwj.jpg

 

20170529_171206_zps13fc5npa.jpg

 

ENGINE MOUNTS
We replaced the existing engine mounts for Baker BM on each end and the lower one is the rubber bush from a landrover suspension arm which is a third of the price of a baker one and takes a larger diameter bolt, perfect if the mounting hole in the subframe has got sloppy like ours was, it does need sleeving up to the aluminium engine mount though!

 

BRAKES
Whilst the engine was out we decided to replace the standard brake servo, this was necessary because once we had installed our twin piston hydraulic hand brake (allowing us to retain dual circuit brakes) we found the pedal travel was too excessive. We changed the master cylinder for a larger one which cured that problem but then we had a heavy brake pedal, after doing a little research we found that a Peugeot 306 brake servo is larger in diameter and a direct fit with just a tiny bit of bending of the panel above it and turned out to be perfect.

 

The brake limiting valves on a 1.4 205 are inside the rear slave cylinders so to use our hydraulic hand brake it was necessary to dismantle the rear cylinders and remove the limiting valve. Once this is done its necessary to replace the brake limiter to avoid the back brakes locking first on heavy brake applications, again after a bit of research some mk1 focus ones were screwed into the master cylinder and then piped in. The brakes are now excellent even though we are still using solid front disc's (grooved and clamped by ds3000 pads).

 

20170529_171231_zpsvgkhgocu.jpg

SUSPENSION

Read Dampers

We were due to do an event and when giving the car the once over only a few days before noticed that one of the rear dampers had started to leak and were in need of replacement, these were Bilstein group n dampers that we had bought second hand and they'd had their work cut out so it was time for some new PTS Bilstein items to go on (F4-B46-2313-H0). We looked at sending the old units back to bilstein to be reconditioned but it worked out to be nearly as much as just buying the units new anyway! These new dampers are great.

 

20170908_175109_zpsvc3kuhg6.jpg

 

REPAIR JOBS
Repair to front splitter
One of the smaller bits but the front splitter was cracked along where the toeing eye comes out so my dad made a minor repair to this which also ended up looking quite stylish in my opinion! 

2016-03-06%2010.36.34_zpszh76cdq4.jpg

 

2016-03-06%2010.36.38_zpshs5ccofe.jpg

 

Wing mirror replacements
I picked up some wing mirror units to replace the ones that were on the car, one of them was broken from the day I bought the car and was really starting to look tatty so it was time for them to get a swap over.

 

Stickers

We bought some go-faster rallye stickers for the rear quarter which look good as well as a sun strip 

 

20170529_171254_zpsllekhdvs.jpg

 

 

Overall really happy with the work done over this year! 

 

IMG_20170923_132132_543_zpszgrgriwr.jpg

 

IMG_20171014_103806_280_zpshsip96l3.jpg

 

Edited by N3VRAM

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barneys66

Nice work - car looks great!

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