[misc_work] Black 1.9 Gti As Peugeot Intended - Atm.

[JoshGti 8]

I must have seen every single cap and lead order picture on this forum, getting SO frustrated with it! Went out fresh after work today and just had 180 out in my head so did the following and i think thats what i may have done.....

 

 

The original owner had the leads on and i just locked the cam and re-did it, so its obviously been out the whole time. Ive obviously just thought "1-3-4-2" and taken it from the known position when i replaced the leads, the owner obviously just ran it 180 out with the leads the wrong way, would that work???

 

Could i just put the leads essentilly in "4-2-1-3" just to check it runs??

Edited September 15, 2010 by JoshGti

[davey sprocket 14]

I must have seen every single cap and lead order picture on this forum, getting SO frustrated with it! Went out fresh after work today and just had 180 out in my head so did the following and i think thats what i may have done.....

 

 

The original owner had the leads on and i just locked the cam and re-did it, so its obviously been out the whole time. Ive obviously just thought "1-3-4-2" and taken it from the known position when i replaced the leads, the owner obviously just ran it 180 out with the leads the wrong way, would that work???

 

Could i just put the leads essentilly in "4-2-1-3" just to check it runs??

 

You've lost me... have you had the cambelt off?

 

 

Your timing on the cambelt looks fine to me... bottom pulley dowel should be at 12 o'clock and cam at 7 o'clock.

Edited September 15, 2010 by davey sprocket

[JoshGti 8]

Davey, yeah i have had the cambelt off.

 

I took the dizzy off before i replaced the leads to clean it up and replace the vac unit, then i put the dizzy on with new leads in "1-3-4-2" order and it hasnt run since, which is why i checked the connections and replaced a few broken ones.

 

That didnt work so thought maybe belt had slipped or summit, so locked both dowel holes and took the belt off and all was fine, flywheel timing marks all lined up as they should, but didnt move anything at all just washed off belt dust, then put belt back on, rotated it and rechecked (rechecked 20 mins ago hence the photos and it still all lines up).

 

But at TDC the rotor arm should be pointing to 1 not 4 like it is in the photos and the dizzy only goes on one way because of the offset key in the bottom of the dizzy, so im stumped at how it has ended up like that?!?

[davey sprocket 14]

Davey, yeah i have had the cambelt off.

 

I took the dizzy off before i replaced the leads to clean it up and replace the vac unit, then i put the dizzy on with new leads in "1-3-4-2" order and it hasnt run since, which is why i checked the connections and replaced a few broken ones.

 

That didnt work so thought maybe belt had slipped or summit, so locked both dowel holes and took the belt off and all was fine, flywheel timing marks all lined up as they should, but didnt move anything at all just washed off belt dust, then put belt back on, rotated it and rechecked (rechecked 20 mins ago hence the photos and it still all lines up).

 

But at TDC the rotor arm should be pointing to 1 not 4 like it is in the photos and the dizzy only goes on one way because of the offset key in the bottom of the dizzy, so im stumped at how it has ended up like that?!?

 

But surely if you turn the crank through 360 you'll be back to TDC and the cam and therefore dizzy will point to plug 1 won't it?

 

OK, I'm getting myself confused now. I will seriously try and get over.

Edited September 15, 2010 by davey sprocket

[JoshGti 8]

If i turn the crank through 360 then it will still be 180 out as its a full rotation, and technically its just the cam thats out?? By half/180 degrees?

 

Why am i finding such a simple thing so hard to get my head around lol?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

No 1 at flywheel end?

[JoshGti 8]

Yep thats how ive got it now miles, the picture shows the cam and crank locked with dowels and the dizzy/rotor arm pointing the wrong way or the right way? and the leads set up 1-3-4-2?

 

Edited September 15, 2010 by JoshGti

[JoshGti 8]

On the plus side, bought some plasticare and decided it would be better to remove all the trim to clean it down and apply the plasticare. Re-fitted the read bumper with all new bolts and fittings today (just need GTI badge and new red strip now) and it looks

 

[davey sprocket 14]

Yep thats how ive got it now miles, the picture shows the cam and crank locked with dowels and the dizzy/rotor arm pointing the wrong way or the right way? and the leads set up 1-3-4-2?

 

You say you've got a spark.... so I assume the kinglead and yellow connector to the dizzy are connected!?

 

Got fuel at the fuel rail? Sure you haven't fried the fuel pump relay with welding or something??

 

The hoses are all connected to the inlet between the AFM and the throttle body?

[davey sprocket 14]

On the plus side, bought some plasticare and decided it would be better to remove all the trim to clean it down and apply the plasticare. Re-fitted the read bumper with all new bolts and fittings today (just need GTI badge and new red strip now) and it looks

 

I've got the badge you want, will bring it over if you want it.

[JoshGti 8]

Yes to all of the above, hold hand over AFM when cranking and its fully sucking in air, no sign of an air leak yet. And yes to the badge if youve got it, what you want for it?

[JoshGti 8]

It lives, i now hate wire 18a with a passion!

[davey sprocket 14]

It lives, i now hate wire 18a with a passion!

 

Dude, well done!!!

 

What the hell is wire 18a???

[JoshGti 8]

Wire 18a is a little white wire that goes to the AFM, i pulled back the tubing covering all the connections but it wasnt till i read all the threads written about the brown multiplug that i thought to check bhind the rubber boots on the sensor plugs, turns out it had snapped, a new wire, connector and a bit of solder later, and it fired!!

 

With a bang and a lot of smoke mind you, but it fired, now it runs like a sick dog, but it runs! It sounds like its runnind on 3 cylinders but all the plugs are dry and sooty so theres spark on all of them, just must me a fuel or air problem somewhere!

[JoshGti 8]

Got bored today and as I had a spare slimline fan lying around from my old 2.0 fiesta project i decided that i would spend 5 minutes lowering and tilting forward my radiator. Im sticking with the 1.9 engine, but i am going to go for management so will be losing the afm, so want more air getting to the engine. Hence the lowered rad, and i was bored!

[JoshGti 8]

PROGRESS:

 

Purchased a motronic mp3.1 loom from a member on here from a bx gti 1.9 8v. The problem with this is that the loom takes the ECU to under the drivers seat. Ive sorted this problem with a bit of cutting. Not the most subtle of approaches on how to treat such a valuable (in some people eyes) item, but i want the ECu in the bay, not under my arse. So...Unwanted loom.....

 

And the original ECU wiring that has been taken out.....

 

Leaving me with a nice new manageable stubby engine bay loom, with all wire identified thanks to a pinout diagram provded by welshpug. Beleive it of not other than the basic mp3.1 diagram the most helpful resource in making up my loom so far has been a wiring diagram from a 1.6 alfa romeo 145! New loom so far....

 

As the standard 1.9 (in both the BX and the 205) use the SAD valve, i decided to follow some information from another peugeot site and added 2 extra wires to the loom so i can use a standard 3-wire ICV...

 

I have also refurbushed my rear calipers thanks to a kit from bigred, for £22 and a bit of time and effort, it makes sense to do it!

 

And with thanks to a written off yellow rallye in the local scrappie, which sucks i know, but waste not want not (is it bad that i would have given up my black gti for the yellow rallye despite it being a write off?) I acquired some fog light grills which need painting (along with my auto bonnet), and some interior parts, namely the base of the rallye dash and gear stick surround, which IMO look much better than that carpeted lump of trollop in the Gti....Anyone know the owner or recognise the registration??

[JoshGti 8]

Okay, my 205 hasn't come that long-a-way since i last updated except a bit of welding and a lot of wiring!!!!!

 

I've been trying to improve the amount of wires under the dash by removing a few, mainly the two brown multiplying ones for the dials. I've also been installing motronic MP3.1 and today I finally finished that transformation! Wired in the new Lambda given to me by allye and re-ran all the vacuum hoses after fitting a new map sensor to the ecu board (as its integrated, what a pig of a job that was!) by replacing it with solid plastic piping and only using the rubber hose for the joins.

 

Turned the key and it idled perfectly! I do have a vacuum leak to hunt down somewhere though.

 

Huge thanks to all the members on here who have answered my motronic related questions and requests, couldn't have done it without the information on this forum! (no really, all other french car forums have non clue!)

 

Also tracked down this.......

Edited October 18, 2011 by JoshGti

[JoshGti 8]

Sorry about the size of the previous photo, bought an iPad 2 and some things you just can't do....so I'll try again. Cleaned up the inlet and fitted it...Desperately need to get a pug sticker

Edited October 18, 2011 by JoshGti

[JoshGti 8]

Today has already been proactive as I have sourced a set of Bx dials to fit so I can remove my butchered set (to fit electronic tachometer) and also the correct throttle body with the AIT sensor in the top. That is my conversion complete and I can finish the car off with new brake lines then it's mot time!

[davey sprocket 14]

Brilliant news Josh, I've been following your Motronic threads and must admit I'm rather jealous!

 

Hopefully get a chance to see her in action sometime soon?? Mine is in bits as I've just started swapping rear beams over

[JoshGti 8]

Yeah, the motronic conversion SHOULD have been simple, but obviously collecting different parts from different sources has obviously caused problems!

 

I've now got the majority of bugs worked out, just the tps causing me problems now, but I've got wiring diagrams for all the cars I've got the parts from I.e. 106 xsi and bx gti so when I get 15mins I'll look into it! Just bought the Bx gti dials so took my dash apart to fit that, just need to switch some bits around to get the oil pressure sender to work and the tacho needs to be swapped for my digital one (can't be hassled with the diodes to make the ecu signal work).

 

Then it's onto the brakes. Need to get someone to make up some full length braided lines and bias valve setup and fit that in the new year hopefully!

[JoshGti 8]

Okay so seeing as I'm installing the Bx clocks I may as well get the whole dash working so first port of call was the only outstanding faulty sensor, the low level water light.

 

So started by emptying it out into the sink....Here you can see the float, the tube, and the black screw cap

 

I kind of broke the securing clips, but I just want to to work and 23 year old plastic is kind of hard NOT to snap.

 

I didn't take a photo but the sender wiring is sunk into some sort of brown "gum". I used a 13mm drill bitt to hollow out/remove the gum from the top half of the senders inside and a long 7mm bit to remove it from the bottom half.

 

I then replaced the wire and a new micro reed switch from maplins was soldered in. Here you can see where I blew the original micro switch, it's a vacuum so wasn't that hard, and I'm often quite heavy handed!

 

So I took some shrink wrap and covered the end so it was as slim as possible making it a lot easier to get it back into the holder without blowing the new reed switch!

 

As water conducts electricity and I'd removed all the original waterproofing I filled the entire hollow sender tube with tiger seal and dipped the new sender wiring into it. By using tiger seal it also glued it down where I had broken the clips.

 

When replacing the float into to bottom of the tube the magnet ring in the float goes at the top end! Just I case anyone else is planning on rebuilding theirs instead of paying the £30-ish quid for a new sender from pug!

 

I now have a fully working dash light!

[JoshGti 8]

As I can't edit my original post I'll post the pictures in a new post, the Bx dials;

 

These dials are from a phase 1 Bx gti which would have run a coil and dizzy setup as per the 205. This means that the redline starts in the same place As the standard 205 clocks. I've took note of the positions of the needles for when I dismantled the clocks to make good the clocks as the water temp and oil pressure were faulty on the Bx dials.

 

Because of the motronic conversion being fitted I needed a digital tachometer, luckily for me I already butchered the rear of the 205 clocks, and I needed to fix two of the dials it made sense to just put the whole fascia section onto the already butchered 205 rear.

 

I made quite a mess tearing 2 sets of dials apart!

 

Finished dials with the existing odometer fitted, although I did like the look of the 73k that was in the Bx clocks it wouldn't have been right!

[JoshGti 8]

Only problem to report with using the Bx dials is that instead of a k-light, the brake wear indicator illuminates!

[JoshGti 8]

With thanks to Mark (marksorrento205) on here I've acquired a complete and very solid phase 2 dashboard which along with my replacement heater assembly and new-to-me matrix has been promptly fitted and that marks the end of any and all work to be done interior wise for the most part.

 

 

Bx dials were included in this interior fittin marathon.

 

 

As you can see from the dash being fitted I have used the base model/rallye lower dash section giving a much more open look to the interior of the car. One thing I would like to do is replace the door cards with xs or rallye ones as I don't really like the carpet at the bottom of the gti ones. That and the fact that they're grey and the dash is now black!

 

I've also taken the liberty of replacing the opening rear windows with base model non-opening type windows, unfortunately this has left odd holes in the trim, but I don't have to sit back there!

 

 

Modern aero blades have been fitted to the front, I fitted Renault Clio window switches as these have the one touch function, this meant removing a full set at the scrappy and buying an extra drivers one off eBay for the passengers side also.

 

And one of the bigger updates, my car now has brakes again!!! Well, the front ones anyway.

 

 

I filled up some 10x1 copper brake fittings with solder to seal the 2 unused ports for now and when I've got the money I will buy the rear setup but I'm chuffed with the setup so far is an understatement. The front setup cost me £60 for the front two MC to calliper hoses and stainless steel fittings.

 

I'm going to run a copper line under the car into a single compensator and then use a t-piece to run two braided hoses across the beam to the rear calipers.