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Jrod

Uh Oh Part 2!

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Jrod

I was planning on just replacing 1 piston and keeping all the liners depending if they all turn out to be ok.

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SPGTi

Or as a blantant plug , buy my freshly built MI16 bottom end that is completely lightened and balanced, new rings, liner seals etc etc ARP rod bolts. see my for sale thread.

 

Steve

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Galifrey
Or as a blantant plug , buy my freshly built MI16 bottom end that is completely lightened and balanced, new rings, liner seals etc etc ARP rod bolts. see my for sale thread.

 

Steve

 

I may have to SORN it and leave it for a few months as money is tight at the moment

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Jrod

I paid good money for this car as it has had a fair bit of work done to the engine. Seems very stupid to just waste it and I couldnt afford to If I wanted!

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pug309twin40s

how you gettin on with the engine jordan?

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Jrod

Plan now is to fit another mi and sellup.

Took the liners to an engine builder today and he said the honing was very poor in his opinion and thinks they are scrap along with the pistons.

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EdCherry

and lose even more money? replace the engine and have some fun!

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Cameron

They were honed at QEP though, right? It's not like them to do poor quality work.

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decoc182

Dont give up mate. I find 205's are always 4 steps backwards one step forward :(

 

Worst case scenario? Surely an xu7jp4 bottom end will bolt up? You can bag an engine for a hundred quid on ebay? Could it work ? Then get back out on the road and enjoy :)

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taylorspug

Ive got some MI pistons and liners which would be good to go straight away if you are interested? Would be cheaper than buying an unknown secondhand lump surely?

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welshpug
Ive got some MI pistons and liners which would be good to go straight away if you are interested? Would be cheaper than buying an unknown secondhand lump surely?

 

only issue would be that they would need decking to fit his current block :)

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Jrod
and lose even more money? replace the engine and have some fun!

I can deal with losing money, I just can't keep putting more into it.

 

They were honed at QEP though, right? It's not like them to do poor quality work.

Yes this is correct, Place I went to is rather upper class (http://www.racecar.co.uk/jimstokesworkshops/) but people from my motorclub have used them and I've only heard good things. He said the lip on the top of the liner was quite bad. I'm still tempted to get a second opinion though.

 

Ive got some MI pistons and liners which would be good to go straight away if you are interested? Would be cheaper than buying an unknown secondhand lump surely?

 

I'm interested but its still going to be more to machine them etc which is what concerns me, also my distinct lack of knowledge on the matter of building engines!

 

only issue would be that they would need decking to fit his current block :)

 

:(

 

 

At the time of buying the 205 I was torn between a mx5 and the 205, I decided to go for a 205 as I've never had a GTI on the road before and seeing as I've had about 8 lower models I thought it was the way to go. I'm now not so sure so will be going for a mx5 instead.

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kyepan
At the time of buying the 205 I was torn between a mx5 and the 205, I decided to go for a 205 as I've never had a GTI on the road before and seeing as I've had about 8 lower models I thought it was the way to go. I'm now not so sure so will be going for a mx5 instead.

get both, i did.

 

tomorrow i'll drive the ..... mx5

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sonofsam
get both, i did.

 

Nah He'll need the extra money for a 'charger and some coilovers :)

 

J, give us a shout if you need a cage made for your '5 I know someone who built one for Keith and shoud

still have the pattern ;)

 

We can be MX buddies :(

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Jrod

Sam, don't say it like that! People are already questioning my sexuality wanting a mx5!

 

You are quite right though, I will be wanting a cage... partly just to man it up! :)

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sonofsam

You'll be wanting a Garage Vary front splitter then too! :P

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taylorspug
only issue would be that they would need decking to fit his current block :P

 

Surely still cheaper than buying another lump, new cambelt, waterpump, maybe big ends etc. At least then its a known quantity, rather than a '60k special' replacement!

 

Anyway please dont think im just trying to flog you stuff, im just putting it out there as an option! :)

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welshpug

oh yeah I agree with that definitely Dan!

 

how much would sorting that cost?

 

treat it as a learning experience, they really are quite simple things, some are simpler than others, some damned awkward :P

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Jrod
Surely still cheaper than buying another lump, new cambelt, waterpump, maybe big ends etc. At least then its a known quantity, rather than a '60k special' replacement!

 

Anyway please dont think im just trying to flog you stuff, im just putting it out there as an option! :P

 

 

I could use most of the bits from my current engine but I still agree, rebuilding what I have is the /better/ option. Just slightly more difficult for me.

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Jrod

Finally pulled my finger out and did some work on this. I've pulled the block out ready to fit new liners/pistons.

 

img0266o.jpg

 

 

How do I got about checking liner protrusion with the new liners? I'm thinking just take it to someone who knows what they are doing... anyone local able to do this?

 

QEP had to deck the top of the block in order to get the liner protrusion right after re-machining the liner seats in the block - as a result the compression ratio would have been too high, so the piston crowns were machined slightly to return the CR to standard.

 

Do I /really/ need to do this? It obviously depends on exactly how much was taken off the block but I don't know how much that was. :) Is there any way to check this?

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dcc

i think you can have about 0.3mm protrusion, i cannot remember exactly so best to look it up. There is an mi16 rebuild guide in somebodies sig on here, i used that guide when rebuilding my engine. I am 99% sure the protrusion would be the same for both engines are the blocks are near enough identical. unless this is a mi16! lol i forgot i read it so long ago!

 

your problem is not going to be checking if the liner seats are corroded beyond use. so many mi16's run without Antifreeze are dead because of the seats being scrap!

 

good luck!

 

I know hexamstu has a complete rebuilt block (all work doen by qep) liners machined etc but in need of a crank, make him an offer on that if your block is scrap tbh

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Jrod
i think you can have about 0.3mm protrusion, i cannot remember exactly so best to look it up. There is an mi16 rebuild guide in somebodies sig on here, i used that guide when rebuilding my engine. I am 99% sure the protrusion would be the same for both engines are the blocks are near enough identical. unless this is a mi16! lol i forgot i read it so long ago!

 

your problem is not going to be checking if the liner seats are corroded beyond use. so many mi16's run without Antifreeze are dead because of the seats being scrap!

 

good luck!

 

I know hexamstu has a complete rebuilt block (all work doen by qep) liners machined etc but in need of a crank, make him an offer on that if your block is scrap tbh

 

... My block is very good, liner seats have been machined but this meant the block had to be decked to get the protrusion correct, problem is those liners are now scrap so I need to make sure the new ones protrusion is correct.

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Anthony

If you've got a proper straight edge and some feeler gauges you can check liner protrusion yourself, otherwise any half-decent engine builder or engineering shop should be able to do it for you.

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pug_ham
If you've got a proper straight edge and some feeler gauges you can check liner protrusion yourself

Thats how I did mine, steel rule & feeler guages.

 

No need to pay someone to do such a simple task imo.

 

Graham.

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DrSarty

Liner protrusion is also measured without the liner seals in.

 

You need 0.003" - it's not a tolerance - so the liners will bite into the HG.

 

As it's all been done so recently, I reckon you'll only have to check measurements for peace of mind, and it'll all be good to go. :)

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