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M_R_205

[body_work] Engine Bay Spraying/rust Fixing

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M_R_205

Today i hired a trailer and took my car over to a bodyshop to get a price for some work, i was expecting in the region of 300-400, the work i wanted done was fit 2 new headlight pannels, treat the rust in the engine bay and re spray the whole bay and inner wheel arches, well the first place said it was to indepth for them and it would need some shot blasting done that they could not do, so i rang about and found someone who can do shot blasting... the seccond place said the car was to old and rottern to do a good job, and they didnt want to attempt it as it would be to "risky" well i was a bit pissed off so gave up and came home having wasted £50 for the trailer!!

 

Here are a few pics of the engine bay. do you think its to far gone to bother with??

 

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200363.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200351.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200352.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200353.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200359.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200362.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/con...xs/SN200364.jpg

 

Now to me id say the engine bay was in bloody good order for a 19 year old car..

 

Any way im going to do all the prep work myself treating the rust, shot blasting,and welding in the new panels, my primary questin is what is the best way to remove the sealent from the wheel arches so i can get the wings off with out f***ing them lol also whats the best way to remove the rust? in the past iv just gound it off and primerd it but this wasnt the best job in the world, any recomendations on primers/acid etch primers and techniques

 

Cheers

Paul

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djinuk

looks damn good nick to me, i woudlnt even bother with the headlight panels, only looks like surface rust mate.

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M_R_205
looks damn good nick to me, i woudlnt even bother with the headlight panels, only looks like surface rust mate.

 

The right hand one has a patch the size of my hand that is totaly gone, the left hand aint so bad but i think i could get a scre driver through the centre of the patch, for the cost of the 2 panels and the cross member (£5 each) why not lol

 

Paul.

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BERTMAN

looks about as bad as mine!! ie not very! im doing the same job on my car at the min... my plan is to grind it back to metal, use bilt hamber hydrate 80, prime and paint...

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platty

Heat!

 

Get a hot air gun, as your easing the wings off, heat the sealant. It will give, but takes a bit of patience.

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SurGie

Do it yourself, you know its done right then instead of rushed then it goes rusty in 2 years or so plus

its so much cheaper, im starting mine in a few weeks time.

 

Cheers for that paint shop info, looks good suff !

 

Your 309 GTI reconditioning is a TOP job!!

 

Where did you get those new shiny bolts from for the rear beam set up?

Not too sure what you ment by bearing man?

 

Cheers

Edited by SurGie

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CosKev
Do it yourself, you know its done right then instead of rushed then it goes rusty in 2 years or so plus

its so much cheaper, im starting mine in a few weeks time.

 

Cheers for that paint shop info, looks good suff !

 

Your 309 GTI reconditioning is a TOP job!!

 

Where did you get those new shiny bolts from for the rear beam set up?

Not too sure what you ment by bearing man?

 

Cheers

 

Thanks :blush:

 

Bearing man is a local bearing/bolt/belt hardware type supplier ;)

 

Shame my 309 ended up like this after 2 months on the road: :(

 

100_3547.jpg

 

10 months worth of work re-building it for this to happen ;)

 

Bus drivers suck :lol:

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marksorrento205

I would fix it up, I have seen a lot worse - my inner wing :lol:;)

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Mark205

I would attemp it yourself, it doesn't look to bad.

 

Bodyshops are naff, some charge to much and their work is shoddy, some are ok.

 

Since owning the 205 i have done absolutly every job on it including bodywork, i never thought i would, i even did the engine conversion myself :lol:

Edited by Mark205

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M_R_205

Im certainly going to do the prep work myself, and im more than confident/able to do any other job on the car its just i tend to make a hack job of anything body related which was the primary reason to taking it to a body shop,

 

iv been speaking to a mate of mine who works in the garage oposite my work and he says i can borrow his spray gun, heaters, portable shotblaster and even his compresser thats all well and good but its the skill im lacking lol

 

I dont see any reason not to attempt it the worst that can happen is my welds will be messy and the paint job is s*it, if thats case i can but try again :lol:

 

 

First things first is to buy a heat gun and some new drill bits

Then il start one night this week removing the wings and cutting out the headlight panels

 

Paul.

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M_R_205

Double post :lol:

Edited by M_R_205

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SurGie

Oh no, what a shame eh :lol:

 

After all that work as well, all buses go to HELLL :ph34r:

 

At leat it looks like it didnt hit the wheel, so no axle damage to worry about..

 

Keep up the on going work. :lol:

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djinuk

im doing the exact same at the moment. Im working the rust of with a flap wheel, then will be sanding with 80 grit till back to good metal. Etch prime the areas affected, maybe some filler is badly pitted areas, wetflat the whole bay, high build, flat , and spray/laquer. Hopefully will turn out nice. Just not sure what to renew my brake lines with, copper or braided, hmm

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SurGie

name='djinuk' date='Mar 26 2009, 11:46 AM' post='930857']

im doing the exact same at the moment. Im working the rust of with a flap wheel, then will be sanding with 80 grit till back to good metal. Etch prime the areas affected, maybe some filler is badly pitted areas, wetflat the whole bay, high build, flat , and spray/laquer. Hopefully will turn out nice. Just not sure what to renew my brake lines with, copper or braided, hmm

 

 

Iv been told that copper will work just as well as braided ones and its alot cheaper, im having copper all round

then braided ones to the caliper.

 

Miles advised me he uses copper in his race car and he sells braided lines that are stainless steel ones, so im getting some

of him when i get round to doing the brakes after iv painted the engine bay with my new compresser.

 

It seems everyone is doing their engine bay at the mo.

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philfingers

only thing I'd do is junk the std 4 lines for the 1900 rear and use two longer st/st ones. more simple = fewer joints etc and probably cheaper too.

Steve (SPGti) got some made up for not a lot.

I totally agree with copper, there's less 'give' int he copper too than full st/st all through,

 

phil

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CosKev
Oh no, what a shame eh :o

 

After all that work as well, all buses go to HELLL :D

 

At leat it looks like it didnt hit the wheel, so no axle damage to worry about..

 

Keep up the on going work. :huh:

 

Yeah,didn't touch the wheel,but still knocked the steering wheel out a fair bit :D

 

Think it must have 'banana'd' the shell,pillar is in a few inches :)

 

Had a nice payout though ;) and only cost me £180 to keep the car!!!!!!! B)

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omega
Yeah,didn't touch the wheel,but still knocked the steering wheel out a fair bit :D

 

Think it must have 'banana'd' the shell,pillar is in a few inches :)

 

Had a nice payout though :D and only cost me £180 to keep the car!!!!!!! :huh:

 

 

who did the paint kev?

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Jrod

Don't use filler unless its really needed, it will help the rust come back. Copper lines are best.

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CosKev
who did the paint kev?

 

Soz m8 :lol: What paint???????? :)

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omega
Soz m8 :lol: What paint???????? :)

 

 

the black paint on your 309 it cant be original is it?

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M_R_205

Started work on the engine bay today, removed both wings very carfuly!! and drilled off the drivers side headligh panel, im thinking if im going to go the the effort of replaceing both headlight panels i may as well replace the whole front panel

 

Heres a couple pics of todays efforts

 

Wing off

SN200375.jpg

 

Headlight panel off

SN200377.jpg

 

Not yet welded in just ploned in place to see how well it fits, not bad for a non pug panel :)

SN200378.jpg

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Rob Turbo

Looking good, I'll be doing the same myself soon, only I'll be changing the complete front panel because the front end is basically rust on mine!

 

I'm not looking forward to removing the wings though!

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M_R_205
Looking good, I'll be doing the same myself soon, only I'll be changing the complete front panel because the front end is basically rust on mine!

 

I'm not looking forward to removing the wings though!

 

Iv decided to do the whole front panel to, for the tiny bit extra wok it seems pointless not to,

 

Gething the wings off is a pain as they crumple and bend so easily, just use loads of heat on the sealent, cut as much of it out as you can and make sure you dont forget to remove the bolt from inside the footwell!! i forgot about it once and f***ed my wing!

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