Fitting A Stud Conversion

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ok so I've got the studs from Grayston for the conversion and had a quick look at fitting them yesterday but have a couple of concerns:

 

1: how do you lock the studs on so they don't come loose and unwind

 

2: how do the studs stay in when undoing the nuts when takin a wheel, surely they will just unwind with the nuts

 

3: obviously the studs wind in quite a way into the hub until they won't wind in anymore but the thread sticks out on the inside of the hub up to 4mm on some studs, will this not catch on anythin!?

 

Thanx for ya help

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Ok right,

 

You need to clean the threads, you need to make sure there isnt any dirt at all... I just took a wheel off to find my studs came out as they were dirty and the glue hadn't stuck.

 

You need bearing fit, you can get this from halfrauds, cant remember the number off the top of my head but its about £4 and should easily do all the studs.

 

My studs dont catch on anything on the front's, but I think ive wound them to far in on my drums although it could be me using to much glue and the shoes sticking. Dry fit all the studs and turn the hubs over to see if it catchs anything, if it does you can always trim the stud.

 

Hope that helps.

[DanteICE 72]

glue, wow didn't know that, what type of glue?

 

Could you not just weld the rear of the stud if it appears out of the other side?

 

Geoff

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

welding sounds much more hassle but definitely a preferred option over glue, if glue is enough thou ill go with that

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

it isnt just glue, its like a stronger loctite...

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Loctite Stud n Bearing

 

This stuff

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

Loctite Stud n Bearing

 

This stuff

Yes, that is all you want to use for a stud conversion, welding is a bad idea because that way you'll ruin the hub if you manage to strip the stud thread or anythig where with loctite you can still remove the stud to swap it.

 

You can buy it for less than ebay at most motor factors or Helfrauds.

 

As for winding them in to far, one end usually has about 10mm of thread befoire a plain part, thats enough depth. The normal wheel bolts don't go in much (if any) further than that.

 

You an just make out what I mean in this picture

 

Graham.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

cool ill go down to a couple of motor we have on guernsey and see if they have it and also a little wire brush to stick in a drill to clean the threads

 

Yeh I wound them in until all the 10mm was in and wouldn't wind in any further however 1 of the studs on one hub went in about 3 more than the others before it stoppped, the threads must start deeper in on the hub!

 

One more question, is using a stud conversion enough to centre a wheel without needing the sprigot ring on a spacer, I wanna use the spacers I have which is 1x10mm with spigot ring and 1x5mm with no spigot but this means the using the 5mm will loose the spigot for centering the wheel so will the studs be enough??

[welshpug 1,627]

you do still need hubcentric spacers, you shouldn't rely on the studs to centre the wheel, depending on the lip of your hubs you should be able to get some 15mm spacers no probs.

 

using 2 spacers is asking from trouble IMO.

 

drop Rippthrough a PM as he can make spacers to any spec you need.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

thanx for that mate,sorry sounds like u saved me a costly mistake, ill stick with the 10mm hubcentric ones I already have for now, its just for me wet set up as I'm running 8 and 9j wide slicks but me wets are standard Peugeot rims which are like 6j or somethin so would lost in the extremely wide arches I've moulded without any spacing lol

[swervygerdy 0]

I have a stud conversion, but I managed to thread one of the studs, ordered 4 new ones from AB motorsport, only to find that the threads in the hub are damaged too. Do I need a whole new hub and bearing set up? Apologies for Hi-jacking the post!

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

I have a stud conversion, but I managed to thread one of the studs, ordered 4 new ones from AB motorsport, only to find that the threads in the hub are damaged too. Do I need a whole new hub and bearing set up?

Hard to say without seeing the damage but a tap / thread chaser of the correct thread might be OK & clean them up so you can use it again.

 

I managed to do this on a rear hub that had a damaged thread & its been fine for the last two or so years.

 

Graham.

[swervygerdy 0]

Yeah, cheers Graham, I looked into a tap set. From what I could gather, I'm supposed to drill out the hole, thread it with the tap then screw in new threads into which my stud (12mm x 1.25 pitch) will then fit.

 

To do this properly, I'd have to take the hub off the car, in which case, I'm probobly best buying a new hub...(plus the cost of the tooling equipment was pretty steep - nearly £50 - which would go some ways toward the new parts).

 

Now to show my comple lack of 205 knowledge, what type of hub and bearing do I get - I'm running 309 drive shafts?

[philfingers 5]

205 or 309 front GTi hubs are the same I think, well the 1900s are anyway, not sure if there's a difference between 16 and 1900 tho

 

phil

[GTI6BOY 29]

How did you manage to get some from grayston as im having loads of trouble?

 

They wont deal with the public but said i could go. I phone back today and said i can go on friday and they said no?

[Batfink 201]

they have a big notice on their site saying trade only so I guess on your first call they assumed you were.

 

Kev

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

From what I could gather, I'm supposed to drill out the hole, thread it with the tap then screw in new threads into which my stud (12mm x 1.25 pitch) will then fit.

You don't need to tap a new thread but clean the thread up with a tap, the method you m,ention above is for making a whole new thread.

 

If you drill it then you'll clean what thread is there out & there won't be enough left to cut the same sized thread back into it so you'll need a new hub.

 

Hub wise you'll need either another 205 1.9 GTI or 309 GTi hub.

 

How did you manage to get some from grayston as im having loads of trouble?

Like Kev says, Graystone are trade only but I asked them for my local dealer & dealt through them or Miles on here.

 

Graham.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Sorry to bring this back up but im really still not getting on my Grayston studs (the type you screw in and locktite) i torque my nuts up to 80nm ( ooh err) which is what i have been told is ample for racing, however in doing so i have now pulled out approx 8 of these studs, when i say pulled out i dont mean when undoing nuts the stud has come too, i mean the thread on the stud and sh*t itself and pulled straight out of the hub as i have been doing them up to 80nm. This really should not happening.

 

So i have decided to loose all of these studs and go for a full on stud conversion, the type you drill out the thread in the hub and press them in the back side.

 

Has anyone done this to a 205 yet, if so what studs did you use and where from?!

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

If the studs are pulling out of the hub & ruining the threads on the studs at 80nm (59lbft) you sound to have damaged threads in your hubs before fitting them imo.

 

I torque mine up to 75lbft & have been doing since fitting them without any issues so far.

 

I've got a set of hubs with threaded bolts through the back of the drive flange that work just the same, I bought them like this but wouldn't choose this route on any I do because if you strip a thread on them then you kill a wheel bearing just to replace it.

 

Contact Graystone if you think its a quality issue but I'd expect they'll say its your car which is the problem imo.

 

Graham.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

if I press the hub out to drill out the threads and fit the splined studs from the back will I need to fit new wheel bearings when pressing back in?

[davev 1]

i would say so yes. as when you press the hub out the bearing, the inner race tends to stay on the hub shaft.

[welshpug 1,627]

not 100%, but you might be able to fit them without removing the hub flange, if you want 12 x 1.25 thread studs that are splined I know subaru ones are, they are shown on the Grayston catalogue and Rallydesign IIRC.

 

otherwise I'd have a look in the for sale section at the set that madaxgt sells, around £100 a set for direct replicas of Peugeot sport items.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Unfortunately i need M12 x 1.5 thanks to my revolution sleeve nuts only being available in 1.5

 

Grayston have splined m12 x 1.5 which i can get for £2.59ea from Demon Tweeks

 

Merlin Motorsport have splined M12 x 1.5 for £2.20ea (think these are the Grayston ones also)

 

Rallynuts do 'Techno 2' Ford M12 x 1.5 at £10.50 which as far as i can see is per stud (thats horrendous)

 

 

Im just a bit cautious with Grayston stuff now as ive had bad experiences and on speakin to them directly yesterday they said all their studs (even the ones i currently have which locktite in) are High Tensile, didnt know you could buy High tensile chocolate!! Their splined studs could be the same material as the screw in ones just in black.....

[SPGTi 2]

I also had the Grayston kit on my old road rally car and I believe the ones on my current car are "Peugeot Sport" (well that is what the one of the receipts say). To be honest I can't tell the difference, and even with regular wheel changing and torquing to 80nm I have not had any problems (touches lots of wood).

 

 

Steve

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

if I press the hub out to drill out the threads and fit the splined studs from the back will I need to fit new wheel bearings when pressing back in?

Very likely because pressing the drive flange out usually wrecks the bearing as well because one of the inner races stays on the flange.

 

Unfortunately i need M12 x 1.5 thanks to my revolution sleeve nuts only being available in 1.5

If you're fitting the M12 x 1.5 into the Pug hubs that might explain why they are stripping the threads or pulling out when you torque them up!!

 

Graham.