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  1. Yesterday
  2. hoodygoodwood
    Progress has been slow on the Mi swap but have removed the 1.9 GTI engine and box , its an opportunity to smarten up the engine bay and get some of the other parts ready so i have fitted a new Febi bush to the lower mount . I might be fitting the finished short engine and the original gearbox back in soon and use a bare head for now so i can start trying to mock up some sort of exhaust and get the 405 Mi16 loom trial fitted , will be asking a few questions about the loom now i have got it stripped back to the bare essentials .
  3. bacardincoke
    It's amazing how they designed a cheap / reliable / accurate mechanical means to regulate the pressures, very impressive.
  4. Tideee started following Rear Demister Repair - Success
  5. PhilNW
    I have heard good and bad reports of success in repairing rear demisters in general not just 205s. When I bought the car only the top 3 wires worked. You could see where someone had gone across some of the wires breaking them. Tried a repair a few years ago but no success so have recently had another go. The biggest problem was actually finding the defects in the wires, some were obvious a lot were not. Some wires had one defect some had 3. The way I found to find them which has worked for me was a mutimeter set to voltage and a direct earth to battery not to a body earth (disconnect the earth lead of the demister). I found that with the wires being resistances in parallel you can get unreliable readings. With the demister switched on I worked my way every 50mm along each wire nudging the wire with the meter probe checking for voltage. The defect will eventually show as either approx battery voltage or zero and they may be practically invisible. Clean the wire and the surrounding area carefully. I used pinstrip detailing masking tape to define the length and width of the repair area (be generous) . Applied 4 coats of Silver Conductive Paint per defect with success. Using a carpet steam cleaner is a very effective misting device to check repairs. However may will have to repeat the process to get complete repair on a wire. Total cost £15 for the paint and £3 for the tape. In my case I repaired 21 defects on the demister (No wonder it did not work). Very happy with results now winter is imminent.
  6. Last week
  7. SRDT
    One more thing to note about testing is that you can mesure 15 bar front and 17 bar rear but in reality that's not possible. The front gauge must be reading low and the rear one high. Doing multiple tests and switching gauges could get you closer to the truth but the test itself is mostly to check that each regulator isn't out of whack and that they are both of the same kind. You are also likely to only test the pressures to see what's wrong after a failed roller brake test at MOT. The groove could also be used to better secure the regulator on a bracket.
  8. bacardincoke
    Useful to know... from what I have seen when looking into this is new earlier 'F' regulators seems to be consistently a bit more expensive than the later 'E' versions, and that includes those sold by the same maker. Granted not much in it, but worth being aware of if cost is a consideration. Likewise, it seems the 'F' regulator is a visually solid item whereas the 'E' has a single groove around its circumference about a 1/3 of the way along from the M12 end. Possibly to help identify one regulator from the other when they've been in place for a while and any markings aren't visible?
  9. mrmarcos
    I am looking for a set of these. If anyone has a set willing to sell, please let me know.
  10. SRDT
    They also confirm that you can replace older regulators by the new kind but only if you change both. Looking at the tolerances two regulators of the same kind will mesure at most 5 bar apart. On the other hand a 3/25 and a 3/15 can mesure up to 14.5 bar apart and still be within spec.
  11. bacardincoke
    Thanks for that... that confirms it then, how these regulators are rated. Your book gives a +/- tolerance of between 1.5 and 2 BAR, depending on the reference point being checked. That allowable fluctuation could potentially make a 3/15 regulator, in some circumstances, match a 2/20. Peugeot presumably changed the regulators spec. for a reason, but that'd suggest there's not much difference between them regardless... the main one is the earlier 'F' kicks in 5 BAR sooner than the later 'E, which may be less desirable. Anyhow, thanks again for taking the time / input, you've helped me to find out what I was wanting to know!
  12. SRDT
    On yet another book I managed to find the exact same kind of curve for a 3/15 regulator but again just labelled as a 0.30 curve slope. As expected the values are: 15 front --> 15 +/- 2 rear 40 front --> 22.5 +/- 2 rear 60 front --> 28.5 +/- 1.5 rear
  13. Leslie green

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    Leslie green replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    Drove 120 miles today , a crow swooped across above me then turned sharply as I was driving and dropped what looked like a small apple right into my path which hit the windscreen at 50 mph , it didn't explode so it was pretty hard and bounced on the road behind ,made a right thud but luckily missed any panels ! then went home washed the car and 20 mins later another bird had sh*t on the bonnet lol
  14. Tom Fenton

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    Tom Fenton replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    On Sunday, local car show. Centre caps for the wheels have been fitted, I wasn’t sure at first, but think I do like them.
  15. bacardincoke
    Baptiste, may be something in the fact each 1 x BAR increment with the 3/25 regulator equates to 0.3 BAR and what the author of your chart uses as a measure? Where ever you're seeing that info's a great resource by the way. Is the 'Blank' 309 regulator (or any others that interest you) difficult to come by? Potential scope to get them from non-Peugeot vehicles, possibly as equally scarce but you never know and at the very least could broaden the net for you. For example, Ate list those on the Ford Mondeo MK1 16v 1.6 and 1.8 Kombi's (1/93 - 12/95) as being in-line 3/25. The 1.6's version (03.6043-1773.3) appears to be M10 fitment, but the 1.8 version (03.6043-1783.3) mentions M12 also, would need checking, but potential to be a straight fit / no adapter needed?
  16. Tom Fenton
    All the theory is great, but to establish if you can measure a difference in brake performance, the roller brake tester at a MOT station would be the way to test the car.
  17. bacardincoke
    That's great, thanks... I was speculating (hoping!) it might be 3/25, which would fit in with what I think may be how this type of regulator is marked/rated. (You're right that the 'F' regulator is 3/15, Ate give that against it in their catalogue.) Getting back to my initial post - how to work out the differences between the 3/15 and 2/20 regulators. All subject to confirmation, my maths being correct, dodgy terminology, it being almost midnight here etc., etc. (so don't be surprised if I row back on some of this later on!) 3/15 The 3 (x10) denotes 30% percentage (used to calculate the force to the rear.) The 15 is the BAR at which the regulator begins to take effect. Up to 15 BAR there is no reduction, front and rear are equal. Thereafter for every 1 BAR rise to the front, there is just a 0.3 BAR rise to the rear. That 0.3 BAR rise is in addition to the already present 15 BAR. SRDT's chart uses three points of reference... the BAR at which the regulator begins to take effect (15 BAR in this case) then 40 BAR and finally 60 BAR. Using the same system, the below is the map for the 3/15 regulator - Front 15 BAR Rear 15 BAR Front 40 BAR Rear 22.5 BAR Front 60 BAR Rear 28.5 BAR 2/20 The 2 (x10) denotes 20% percentage The 20 is the BAR at which the regulator begins to take effect. Thereafter for every 1 BAR rise to the front, there is just a 0.2 BAR rise to the rear. Front 20 BAR Rear 20 BAR Front 40 BAR Rear 24.0 BAR Front 60 BAR Rear 28.0 BAR In bald figures doesn't look to be much variance, just 0.5 to 1.5 BAR at the Front 40 and 60 BAR points, but I'm not knowledgable enough to say whether such differences between the left and right rear brakes is significant or not? What maximum BAR could potentially be seen at the front brakes, does the chart finish at 60 BAR for a reason?
  18. lahondal
    Hello. 3 years later, we have taken the car to a another mapping session at another shop, and we have good and bad news. We have made another exhaust manifold just to make sure this is not making the car to overheat and/or hurt the power delivery, i have attached a pic. The car now is throwing 277hp, i think as it should have been since the first try. Mapper said that its a good idea to limit the torque entry a bit to make the car more drivable and controlable at hillclimbs. And also sacrifice some power to stay sure the car its reliable as dont have forged internals or that type of material. So we have left it at 267hp and 330nm @1.2bar. Bad news are that we have made an attempt on locking the dyno on 3500-4000 engine rpm and load the engine to see if its still overheating and in about 2minutes the temp was raising again from about 85c to 108c. Mapper said that its common to see most cars overheating with such type of test but we need to test it on real race conditions to see if it still overheating. Something inside me tell me that the problem is still there, time will tell. Thanks!
  19. SRDT
    It is likely the early unmarked regulator with a curve slope of 0.3 that is also used on some non GTI 309. Looking at the curve it should be labelled as a 3/25 but I can only find it as 0.3. I only have partial and half reliable information about other regulators but for what I can deduct the "F" one could be a 3/15.
  20. Leslie green

    1.9 rich running

    Leslie green replied to David Simson's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    ECU temp sensor on the back of the block on a phase 2 , side of block near sad valve on thermostat block on earlier cars can cause a car to run rich, its a 2 pin blue plug and there is a spec in the haynes for resistance at certain temps , if its faulty fuel economy is bad as its thinks the engine is still cold when warm and adds too much fuel.Its not that easy to access though . The airflow meter you are talking about that has the sealed cover its sealed so it is waterproof as it should never really need to be opened , the main issue with those is a worn track that can cause running issues and cutting out so people move the pointer to an unworn part of the track.
  21. PhilNW

    1.9 rich running

    PhilNW replied to David Simson's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    What exactly do you mean by "OK, that's all well but my car runs like ****" eg. - Misfire, low power, lack of accleration
  22. David Simson
    Hi, I have a 1.9 litre and unable to fix a running rich problem. As a matter of course I have replaced spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm, all leads. I have also adjusted the small screw controlling idle but my understanding is this ONLY controls idle so should make little or no difference to general running. Sure enough, it didn't. In front of you when you lift the bonnet is what looks like a black fusebox which is sealed by what looks like black bathroom sealant. I have seen videos where people have removed the lids to adjust the gears inside controlling the mixture. Seems like a reasonable idea BUT why did Peugeot seal it in the first place if the lid was meant to be removeable? Surely they'd have used screws? Having spoken to several people I've been advised not to touch the mixture gears. Peugeot set them and they're not intended to be adjusted. OK, that's all well but my car runs like **** and is thirstier than she should be. Which leads me to this post. Has anyone experienced the same problem and does anyone know how to fix it? Thanks
  23. Richie-Van-GTi

    bilstein b4 issues

    Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    Same, so sounds like I am not the only one to have this. Extra washer looks like it solves it.
  24. Richie-Van-GTi

    bilstein b4 issues

    Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    That washer is there on my strut. Looking at them photos everything is there.
  25. Arthur started following Satchshift on fase one with BER
  26. Arthur
    Hello gents. As I've frankensteined my car quite a bit and I was wondering whether satchshift would be a different install in my mk1 with BE4r. It's not a racer but my linkage has seen better days and since I custom made some of the parts to suit, it's not the best solution to be honest. So I need to re-think what I made anyway and then was thinking to go Satchshift while I'm at it. Maybe I could even just cut out the back of the box area and keep the trim?
  27. bacardincoke
    @SRDT Found an old post you made here https://www.205gtidrivers.com/forums/topic/174580-315-rear-proportioning-valve-help/ The measurements you quote - 25 front --> 25 +/- 2.5 rear 40 front --> 29.5 +/- 2 rear 60 front --> 35.5 +/- 1.75 rear Do you know what the parameters of the regulator those refer to are, for example 3/25? I've trawled the Ate catalogues and while there is one to that spec. it was on a Ford Mondeo estate... however that's meaningless, as I suspect the reason others aren't listed (by Ate) isn't because they didn't exist, it's just that they didn't make them, someone else did. Ironically it was finding that Lotus document that lead me back to this forum, if I've understood it correctly it's looking like I was interpreting things in reverse and it makes more sense now! Knowing what the unknown parameter is may help confirm I'm on the right track or not.
  28. Tom Fenton

    bilstein b4 issues

    Tom Fenton replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    Yes I have had to add a 14mm washer on B4 a couple of times now as otherwise the nut bottoms out. With all the other parts present and correct as this is not my first rodeo.
  29. ScoobyJawa

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    ScoobyJawa replied to acox99's topic in General Car Chat

    Had the longest journey in years. Down to Beaulieu for Simply French. Ran really well, even with shocking weather on the way home. great day out but I think the weather forecast kept others at bay, not that many 80’s/early 90’s
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