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Tom Fenton

[Project] Starting My Xu5T Build

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Tom Fenton

To answer the first question of "Why?" my reply is "Why not?"

 

After driving my Audi TDI estate about I am not used to people wanting to race me. On completing my red 205 overhaul and starting to use it I am flabbergasted at the amount of people that want to blow me away, and slightly frustrated at the percantage of the aforementioned that are able to do so!

Therefore I hatched a cunning plan to foil their efforts, have a little fun building something, and use up a few bits I have knocking about.

 

 

First of all take one unsuspecting red 205 GTI 1.6

35994573861_65959d15e2_z.jpgUntitled by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Next add one cheap second hand B6E low compression 1.6 GTI engine (£40)

35994499741_007f93da36_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Purchase a GTI6 flywheel from the forum for £10, and add a used XSI clutch from "stock"

 

35736439950_d91c4920c6_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Then buy a Mi16 crank sensor from the psooc forum, £8

 

35736439710_7eb2cb3745_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

The whole idea is to make a sleeper to be able to blow away the repmobiles who keep picking on me, so an atmo dump valve would give the game away. Hence buy a 406 turbo recirc DV off ebay for £8

 

35958499722_7eb2cb3745_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

Edited by Tom Fenton
Repair image links

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Tom Fenton

Next add a set of modern high impedance fast response Rover 230cc injectors £15

 

36086778916_65ce3d786c_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

S/h Fuel rail from "stock"

 

Mi16 2 wire PWM idle valve from "stock"

 

35994499871_6a71bb5b25_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Cosworth AMAL valve from "stock"

 

35320015803_65bc27ab90_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

And finally the windmill, a Rover Turbo Garrett T25, with a new compressor housing without the silly integral dump valve that the Rovers all have. I bought this to go on my Mini Turbo but since then have a more suitable Garrett T2/25 hybrid for that, so this is spare! (From "stock")

 

35320016213_4f0196ebf8_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Also from "stock" a T25 outlet flange into a 3" vee-band connector, and a 3" downpipe. This may well be too big to be able to use, but there is only one way to find out.

 

36128266615_aefb218611_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Hopefully soon to be delivered is a Cosworth inlet air temp sensor, and a Peugeot turbo exhaust manifold. Bits to source include some M7 capheads to hold the clutch to the flywheel, and a coilpack and leads. A thermostat housing off a 406T or 405 motronic engine would be handy too.

 

Will update this as and when, cheers!

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Tom Fenton

Pulled the head of the engine tonight, bores all look OK and no wear lip that I can feel so thats a good start.

 

With the cam removed I measured the chambers, they are 32cc on this engine as far as I can measure. The head gasket thickness I measured at 1.35mm so from that I can work out how much to remove from the head to get the CR down. The engine is supposedly 9.25:1, I am going to aim to lower it a tad to approx 9:1.

 

The valves all cleaned up well and the guides seem to be OK too.

35320016453_4e02cdcddd_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

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Tom Fenton

After doing a few calcs it seems it should be relatively straightforward to get the CR down. By going up to a slightly thicker head gasket at 1.5mm from 1.35mm, and add 1cc to the head chamber, CR will drop down to 8.97:1 from 9.25:1.

 

How the pistons will stand up will be something that only time will tell, only looking at running about 0.5bar of boost pressure though.

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cybernck

quite often people ask if it's worth turbocharging a 1.6 engine, so i guess they'll get an answer now :).

 

the pistons should hold OK, even more so as they're not machined a-la TT ones i guess :(.

 

you said you're going to use Megasquirt as EMS iirc?

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Tom Fenton

Yes I'm planning to use a MegaSquirt ECU, the soldering bit doesn't really interest me so at the moment I'm looking at buying a MS2-Extra built ECU with 2 ignition drivers so I can run true wasted spark without the EDIS unit (that I don't really like), and 2 PWM outputs, one for an idle valve, and one for a boost control valve to run open loop mapped boost.

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Tom Fenton

Well I've done a bit of number crunching today, it seems the turbo I have will be quite a good match for the XU5, here is a map, coloured lines are 4,6,8,10psi moving upwards, the dots are 2k, 3k, 4.5k, 6k and 7k moving across.

Most importantly its clear of the surge line, about 8psi sits it right in the sweet spot, assuming the bottom end will live with it anyway.....

 

35994499921_f0636fe602_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

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Tom Fenton

An update for those looking on, the cylinder head has now been in the parts washer and degreased, all the valve seats look OK and the valves look like they will lap back in nicely.

The turbo manifold has also arrived now, I was suprised at how small the ports in the manifold looked and am not suprised that some people say it is restrictive.

The cylinder head and exhaust manifold have now gone off to my head porting friend in Pontefract, he is going to give the inlets a quick tickle up, open the exhaust ports out to the gasket line, and remove some of the "beak" in the chamber to drop the chamber volume by approx 2cc. Once the head has had a light skim after the porting work the compression ratio should end up at approx 9:1. He is also going to open out the manifold again to the gasket size, and port it internally to smooth out some of the ridges and casting marks, hopefully it all should add up to a nice flowing setup, every little helps.

Once I get the parts back the next stage will be to come up with an adaptor plate to convert the odd Peugeot manifold flange to the standard T25 bolt pattern.

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M@tt

nice work Tom

 

out of interest when you say open the posts up to the gasket line do you mean match the exhaust manifold and cylinder head openings to the actual gasket openings? if so would that mean that any replacement gasket would have to match the old one exactly? not sure whatat manufacturing tolerances are like from gasket manufacturers

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Rippthrough
nice work Tom

 

out of interest when you say open the posts up to the gasket line do you mean match the exhaust manifold and cylinder head openings to the actual gasket openings? if so would that mean that any replacement gasket would have to match the old one exactly? not sure whatat manufacturing tolerances are like from gasket manufacturers

 

 

Quite far out, +-1mm looking at the ones I got to run the PTFE gaskets off from.

 

It occurs to me that Mr.Fenton has far too many parts in 'stock' !

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Tom Fenton

Never underestimate the value of a few choice items of "stock"!!!

 

Gaskets are easy to cut out to match the ports TBH, 2 mins with a stanley knife job done! I'm not too worried!

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Rippthrough
Never underestimate the value of a few choice items of "stock"!!!

 

Gaskets are easy to cut out to match the ports TBH, 2 mins with a stanley knife job done! I'm not too worried!

 

 

Voila, one trip to A&E to reattach the end of your thumb :):)

 

Thinking about it, I've got 2 garages, 1 shed, the attic and the space under my bed full of 'stock' too, what is it with peugeots and spare bits?

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Henry Yorke

This sounds great Tom. If you get stuck for anything, give me a shout and I can try and help find it. You could have gone for a turbo technics manifold from 205 Parts and that would give you the standard T25 fit. My skip runs the standard Peugeot turbo, Mi flywheel, crank & knock & Lamda sensor and Motronic 3.2. You will also need to consider your gearbox as the 1.6 is a revvy little begger anyway so you will have lots of fun at the start with wheelspin, but the novelty does start to wear off a little.

 

We will have quite a few South Yorkshire Blowers soon!!

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Rippthrough
We will have quite a few South Yorkshire Blowers soon!!

 

I'll be feeling left out at this rate!

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Batfink

I read somewhere that you want a sort of step between the exhaust port and manifold. I can't remember why though. The step needed to be on the bottom rather than the top.

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Tom Fenton

Cheers Henry, I did consider the TT style manifold from 205parts but my budget for this is small, so I'm trying to do everything either using bits I have kicking about, or otherwise on the cheap using secondhand/ebay bits to be honest. The only major expenditure I'm planning is the ECU to run it.

 

One thing I could do with if anyone knows of one is the knock sensor and stud that it fits to from a later Mi16 engine.

 

I've got a Xantia TD gearbox also in stock so I may end up using that instead of the 1.6 box, I've been trying to establish what the ratios in it are though as I've read differing info from various sources, I may just end up stripping the box and counting teeth, either way its only a couple of hours work to swap a box if the one I go with doesn't suit the car.

 

Batfink I thought the step between head and manifold was for NA cars to promote a vortex as the exhaust gasses exit the head, mainly to try and help prevent gas reversion. However on a turbo I thought it didn't really matter, and the main goal is lowering the exhaust pressure in the manifold as much as possible with a combination of a correctly sized turbo, and a decent flowing manifold.

In any case, it is not as though I am going to be pushing the boundaries of power output in a 205 by strapping a windmill on the side of a 1600 engine, its just for fun really.

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Tom Fenton

Done a bit more on it over the last couple of days.

 

First thing was to mount my air temperature sensor in the inlet manifold. I have chosen a Cosworth one, as it uses the common 2 pin junior timer plug (I know them as a "Bosch" plug) and it also is the open type of temperature sensor, meaning the thermistor is exposed within a plastic "cage" and it is more sensitive to changes thus will respond more quickly.

I had a couple of ideas on how to do this, the first was to drill and tap the manifold is a suitable place, but not having a tap I settled on another way to do it. I managed to get hold of a half-nut in the right thread (14x1.5) and then knocked the metal plug out of the end of the manifold (opposite throttle body). Then by drilling a hole and welding my half nut to the back of the plug I have somewhere to mount my ATS.

 

My next job was to clean out the inlet manifold, as with nearly all the 8v GTI engines the inside of the manifold was covered with a load of black sh1t, so it was taken to work and given a good going over in the parts washer. It is by no means immaculate inside now, but it is a damn sight better.

 

I then turned my attention to the fuel rail and reg, the reg was tested and found to be OK, so this and the fuel rail received a clean up and paint to look less grotty.

 

Next was the throttle body. One of the other things I hope to achieve with this conversion is a 205 8v that idles consistently and properly, the standard 8v antics do my head in. I am therefore planning on using an Mi16 idle valve to control the idle, so all the passageways in the standard throttle body are no longer needed. In addition there will be no need for the take off to the vacuum advance so this needed blocking off too.

To do this I first stripped the body down and removed the butterfly and spindle, the bushes for the spindle were in pretty decent order. I then cleaned the majority of the cr@p out of the throttle body, and removed the screw that normally governs idle speed. This was then drilled out and tapped 1/4"BSP, and blocked with a 1/4" BSPP socket head plug. The vacuum advance pipe was drilled and tapped M4, and the passageway leading to where the idle speed screw used to be was tapped M10. I'm just waiting on some grub screws and then these will be fitted and threadlocked in place, and the butterfly and spindle can be replaced.

Pics to follow.

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Tom Fenton

Pics as promised

 

Inlet with different injectors

35320016023_c42381ac9f_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Air temp sensor

35994499651_d939841666_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Blocked off idle drilling in TB.

35958500072_a79c7f4d0d_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

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Dan Ingram

I think I've got a knock sensor if your still after one?

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Tom Fenton

Cheers, I've got one now though, thanks.

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Henry Yorke

Liking the inlet temp sensor. I was wanting to fit something similar so I can see what the inlet temps actually are. My ITS is mounted in the top of the throttle body. Will yours read low as it will be taking the temp after the fuel has been squirted in as opposed to before it is mixed with the air?

 

2Throttle_body_temp_sensor-med.JPG

 

Pop along on Thursday to the Yorks group meet and have another spin in mine :)

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Alastairh

Looks good.

 

This conversion has always intrested me after seeing Henrys skip a few times and at the rollers last year. I still would love to see what it would get on proper management and stop the Peugeot stuff having panic attacks which can lead to a modified drivers wing :)

 

Keep at it :mellow:

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Tom Fenton

The air temp sensor is in the "plenum" of the inlet- there won't be any fuel here! (I hope!) I've mounted an air temp sensor in a similar place on the 16v Turbo Mini and that works fine so I'm confident it will be OK.

I'll try to make the meet this month.....I know I keep saying that.....!

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Tom Fenton

In between a few other jobs I've mounted the throttle pot on the throttle body today. Its functional if not pretty, need to order some more M4 capheads.

 

36086778976_abe7ca7bed_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Also the coilpack I want to use has arrived, this one has thrown me as the Ford coilpacks I've used in the past always have a three pin connection, one live, and then one triggering wire from the ECU for each bank of two, so three in total. This one has 4 pins, is it as simple as having two lives and two triggers? Also does anyone know where I can get a plug to suit this connection?

 

35736439830_0481bb6ab3_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Cheers!

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