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Hi All, more help required please!!Lol I picked up the 205 this weekend, well I tried to anyway I got about 5 miles away from the garage and it cut out, and wouldn't restart it was just cranking on the starter and, at best, spluttering a bit and backfiring spectacularly! After about 5 minutes of poking about at plugs without finding a loose one it was suggested to adjust the AFM screw, which I did, and there was a difference, for the worse! So I turned it the other way and it started!! I'm wasn't sure weather it was this adjustment or the fact the engine had cooled that allowed it to re-start, but I carried on never the less. About another mile up the road the same thing happened again!! So I pulled over and tried the screw again to no avail (I couldn't remember which way I was turning it) and the engine wouldn't even splutter at this point, just kept turning over on the starter. I had the car towed back to the garage and the mechanic has had a look at it today for me. He has just rang back to say that he managed to adjust the AFM to allow the car to re-start this morning but it again cut out when hot, and wouldn't re-start! So he adjusted the AFM and got it to start when warm and it would rev normally warm. He then allowed the engine to cool back off for a few hours and came back to try it again and with the AFM set when warm it wouldn't start cold!? I have searched the forums about AFM's and read a lot about idle issues but nothing describing my symptoms! Is the AFM knackered or is this just a symptom of another component not working properly, that we're compensating for with the AFM!? Sorry for the long post, so close to having this on the road its unreal it was like a little tease session on Saturday - painful!!lol Cheers Andy

My Mi16 is worrying me slightly, the stop light and the oil pressure light is coming on. When I last drove the car from my old house to the new house, there were no problems, no warning lights, even through the oil got up to temperature. Now the car is sorn and parked in the garage, and when I started it last the warning lights came on at low RPM (the gauge is still showing good pressure, but the stop light is flicking on. Should the stop light be either fully on / off, as this is a gradual on / off?). The engine hasn't really done much mileage since it was rebuilt 5 years ago, but want to check the oil pressure properly just so I know if I'm dealing with a mechanical problem, or an electrical fault. Anyway, I've seen this kit for testing the pressure. I'm not really interested in fitting a permanent kit in the car, so this looks ideal. The only thing is what adaptor would I need? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MECHANICS-MECHANICAL-REMOTE-MASTER-ENGINE-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-TESTING-KIT-WR-/121108782405?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item1c32a55d45 Cheers, Dean

I'm seriously considering converting my Mi16 to solid lifters to negate the oil surge. Just wondering if anyone on here has done it, and would like to pass on their experiences? This will be for a occasional road/mostly track car. Yes, I could go GTi6 head but I can't help thinking it would diminish the '1.9 Mi feel'. It's still an idea, but I'm looking at converting the hydraulic lifters and making custom shims (I have a friendly, skilled machinist to hand and stock of silver steel). Potentially stage 2 solid grinds maybe? Advice/tips welcome!

I'm almost ready to try to start my Mi16 engine (1.9 ally block), with Gti6 inlet / injectors and wasted spark coil pack. Just after a bit of advice on a base map to enable me to safely run the engine in and drive to the mappers. I intend to use a gti6 base map and change the ingition settings for the wasted spark coil pack but will I need to lean off the fuelling at all? If so how much would be a sensible ammount? Cheers, Stu

Just a quick question this one - as part of my upcoming mi16 conversion i will be fitting a gti6 inlet manifold and as such trying to find ways around mounting the icv and ign coil, all i want to know is will there be any adverse effect in having the mi16 idle control valve open to atmosphere, i.e, one end will connect into the inlet manifold as per usual operation the other would just be open to the engine bay and to intake air as needs be (with a little breather filter attached) - any problems there? I have done it with gti6's before but will the mi16 work also since in its standard set up it draws air from the pipe after the afm; hence metered, whereas it will be drawing unmetered air the way i want to use it.

Hi, Ive fitted an already set up 1.9 mi16 engine on throttle bodies with Emerald management into a different car. Id like to get the map checked and tweaked and make sure everythings ok with a wideband lamba used. Id also like to make use of the switchable map function and get a tamer map put on. Ideally I would take the car to Emerald for this but they have a lot on atm and its a long way away! So Ive spoke to them today and they've mentioned the following Jdm dyno Awesome gti Raceproved protune Has anyone had experience with getting their emerald mapped at these places? Or anywhere else they'd recommend within around 3 hours of la144 (cumbria) thanks Rich

Hi everyone, As the title describes I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my first Mi16 engine to drop into my 1.9 Gti. So far I have stripped down the engine to the block and have found a few problems including perished hoses and rather bad pitting caused by corrosion on the head. Am I correct in saying that the head face could be welded and then machined or is it just a case of scrapping it and finding another? After doing a bit of research it looks as though its recommended to renew the following: Gasket set (top & bottom) inc. head gasket Headbolts Thrust washers Main & big end bearings Cam belt water pump Is there anything else that I should look into buying? Any help with this project would be great! Cheers

Hello all, I have already introduced myself before but here is my full run down on the car and hopefully my progress through getting it to a standard where i will be happy with it. The 205 originally a 1.6 GTi and had the conversion to a XU9J4 engine in November 2010 by Spoox Motorsport and it was an intended track-day car until i had purchased it at the end of June this year http://www.spoox.co.uk/catalog/ It has had an extensive amount of work done to it but i am in the mind that i could do with maybe advice and help in the work that shall need to be done as it is my first pug and especially one this quick and nice. The stuff done to it already is as follows : Automatic bonnet fitted and painted 3 Piece Clutch kit Spoox motorsport 4 - 2 - 1 Exhaust Manifold Spoox motorsport custom inlet manifold valve Spoox motorsport ITG Air Filter Spoox motorsport uprated lower engine mount Some mad South African alarm thing It has the 1.6 BE1 Gearbox still and is in as much as original condition the wheels were acid dipped and powder coated just before i had bought the car I am having some issues with the engine it can give more but how would be the best way of going about it , I am thinking of weber carbs but would that make a difference over what is done ? Thanks for looking

after 6 months of sorting engine out (in and out) it finally works a treat. last job is to sort the dash lights out. Thort it was odd when I turned in ingnition on for the first time and didnt get the stop light and the oil pressure guage shot up! Then once started the oil pressure guage falls right down, when reved it almost goes negitive and the low presure light dimly comes on as does the stop light. Im puzzled its almost as if ive have connected a plug around the wrong way?? have I conected the 2 sensors at the front of the block around the wrong way Any help would be grately appricated

Alright guys, just registerd with this forum as im in the middle of building a new hill sprint car, and i have built a mi16 engine on twin 45 carbs.I have reached the point of needing to wire it and after many long nights trawling throught the internet im still not to sure on what i want. Basically what i would like to do is just wire the engine from fresh has anyone ever done this or have any info on it? i come from a rally background of mk2 escorts when no ecus are needed, is this the case on the mi16 can it be done with no ecu, just with a basic ignition system? any info would be very much appreciated, Thanks, CM

Hi! My name is Andreas, I'm 20 years old and I live in the middle of Norway. Currently working as car painter, Thought I'd share my project(s) with you I bought my first 205 when I was 15 years old. It was a red 1.4 XR that I spent a lot of time on, including a full respray and GTI-look. I still have it but it has been parked for 2 years now, not sure what to do about it After a while I bought my first GTI, a 1988 1.9. It also got a full respray and pretty much everything has been changed or fixed on it. I've also had two 205's for parts, both were 1.9, but one had a Mi16 in it, One of them has been scrapped so right now I have three 205's Recently I also bought a BMW E46 320d '04, but that's another story Well here's a bunch of pictures from start to beginning:

Possibly a little premature with the thread title, as there won't likely be any activity for a few weeks yet. But having done nothing with my 205 for so long that I can't even remember, I've come to the conclusion that it would be wise to get the engine back to good health first. There's a million other things I want to do before putting it back on the road, but my logic is that if I decide to sell it on before I'm finished with it, it's going to be a far less attractive proposition with a dodgy engine! So, quick review (EDIT: maybe not so quick ) of the situation as it stands.... It's a standard 1.9 Mi16 that was rebuilt by DES Developments about a 18 months/2 years before I bought the car, at the same time they did the conversion. I'd need to dig out my file for more specific info, but I bought the car in early 2007 so I guess it was rebuilt about 2005. I've not done much mileage in it in 5 years, so I reckon the engine's had less than 10k on it since the rebuild. However, Half way through my ownership it started to leak coolant through the head bolt above the oil temp sender, at quite an alarming rate. That was temporarily fixed using Radweld, controversially, but it did the job very well. In the summer of 2010 I took it to Miles to get it sorted properly. I'd already been advised by someone else that it could be a corroded head, or even worse, corroded block. The verdict came back from Miles - there was some corrosion to both head and block. The head had apparently been skimmed "quite a bit" in the past (I've no actual measurements) but needed to be done again. So it was stripped down, skimmed, pressure tested, rebuilt with new valve stem seals and (possibly) new lifters (or they may have been reconditioned - I'll need to check my records). The bad news was that although the block cleaned up OK, and there was no signs of any cracks etc, the front face was uneven. To rectify that would mean skimming the block deck, and the liners, which means full strip and rebuild. I discussed this with Miles. Bottom line was, I just couldn't afford to get the bottom end done. I HAD to take a gamble. Miles was fairly confident that with the head skimmed that it would seal OK with a new gasket (which would obviously fitted as a matter of course). I mean, it had to be an improvement on how it was, right? There was of course a clear understanding that this was my choice, and that there was no guarantee it would work, so it was entirely my gamble. Unfortunately it didn't pay off. It seemed OK at first, but under certain conditions, it would leak from the same spot again. I tried using K-Seal as everyone had been raving about it, but it didn't stop the leak. I don't know if K-Seal is just not as effective as Radweld in this instance or if means the leak is now somehow worse than before. Still, in spite of this it still got me through a few long trips up and down the A1 between London and Edinburgh, but after we moved here in Aug 2010, I took it off the road, and it's been unused ever since...............

I've just installed the Motronic ML4.1 loom on my 205 Mi16, after quite a few teething problems. I finally got round to taking her for a test drive and it wasn't perfect. Under gentle throttle it runs fine, the idle seems good and revs cleanly when not under load (i.e. stationary in neutral). However when I try accelerating hard it is very hesitant between 3k and 5k rpm, and I think it is more likely to be ignition related as the rev counter looked a little shaky (though it is difficult to tell). It does it all the time, so I don't suspect a loose connection. The coil is new, as are the HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm. The ignition amp is new too, but is an Intermotor one (is this likely to be a problem?). The AFM seems to give a smooth resistance reading when I move the flap, so I think that's OK.