Ye Olde Trusty French Electrics

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Had a bit of a situation earlier as follows. Picked Mrs up from work @ 3.00pm and did my banking, personal stuff. Then decided to go to Asda's and do the fortnightly food shop for myself and Mrs. Car was fine driving about etc. Anywho, finished the shop, unlocked the car and filled the boot up with my Xmas munchies and a few necesseties Went to start the car... and nothing. Ok thats a lie, as the starter was turning over but it seemed there was a fault in the ignition, something to do with the spark.

 

Couple phone calls to a relative who was nearby and Flix off here and I was under the bonnet (without a torch in the dark lol) checking all wiring. Eventually I found the problem seemed to be a connection which looks similar to a scart socket from a T.V. This is situated underneath the circular coil thing under the n/s strut. Chris (Flix) said it was (and apologies if I relay this wrong) a "igntion amplifier". It basically was loose as fook, and I assume as the clip on it was missing, it had worked it's way loose thanks to the harsh ride of the 205.

 

So unplugged it and really forced it back on - car started first time.

 

So I assume 99.9% this is the issue. My question is, whats the best way to stop it happening. Tomorrow I will simply wrap it in electricians tape, and I was then thinking (and advised by Chris) to source a replacement off a nice chap on here maybe.

 

How does this clip work, as I'm unsure which part it's permanently fixated too.

 

Any advise or indeed experiences/solutions to similar things would be greatly appreciated. I'm thankful these cars are quite simple to work on.

[davemar 16]

Yes, it would have been that bad connection that stopped the car from working. Chris is right, it is the ignition amplifier. It receives a signal from the distributor when the engine rotates, which it converts to a higher current switching signal for the coil. So if this goes, you don't get any spark!

 

The type of connector is called a (junior) power timer, and IIRC this one is a 7-way one. Usually the clip is just a piece of sprung wire that clamps it in place; so I assume your clip is missing. You can buy the whole connectors new (google for auto electrics or something similar), but that might be a tad pricey just for a clip. If I had a spare clip around I would send you one, but I don't have one. Hopefully you just need the clip and not replaced the whole connector, assuming all the contacts are still fine. It might be worth unscrewing the amp module itself so you can get a better look at things.

 

Hopefully someone will have a spare one off an old loom for you?

 

Might be worth a rummage down a scrappy. Some old BMWs, Alfas, Volvos and Citroens may have similar connectors on them if there aren't any 205 GTis around.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Yes, it would have been that bad connection that stopped the car from working. Chris is right, it is the ignition amplifier. It receives a signal from the distributor when the engine rotates, which it converts to a higher current switching signal for the coil. So if this goes, you don't get any spark!

 

The type of connector is called a (junior) power timer, and IIRC this one is a 7-way one. Usually the clip is just a piece of sprung wire that clamps it in place; so I assume your clip is missing. You can buy the whole connectors new (google for auto electrics or something similar), but that might be a tad pricey just for a clip. If I had a spare clip around I would send you one, but I don't have one. Hopefully you just need the clip and not replaced the whole connector, assuming all the contacts are still fine. It might be worth unscrewing the amp module itself so you can get a better look at things.

 

Hopefully someone will have a spare one off an old loom for you?

 

Might be worth a rummage down a scrappy. Some old BMWs, Alfas, Volvos and Citroens may have similar connectors on them if there aren't any 205 GTis around.

 

Ah, thanks for that. It's given me a better understanding now. I noticed that when I did disconnect the black plug from the bottom to inspect it, it had a little white powdery deposit left on it. The main issue is really the looseness of the connection. If I get reasonable weather tomorrow, I'll try unscrew the top part of the connection as advised and give it a wipe down and wrap around with some strong tape. Will look on the usual haunts like Ebay for a replacement me thinks.

 

Thanks for the superb insight!

[GLPoomobile 958]

The white powder will be from the dried paste that goes between the module and it's metal backing (the heat sink). No need to take them apart and clean it, as I'm sure it's still doing a fine job. If you take it apart and clean it you'll have to get a new tube of paste to put between the 2 or your module will overheat.

 

I'm sure your problem is simply down to the connection coming apart as a result of the missing clip. I'm sure someone on here will have a spare clip, but if not just tape it together so the clip does not come loose again.

 

And if you (or anyone else) does go on the hunt for a new terminal housing, it's a Junior Timer housing NOT a Junior Power Timer housing. The latter is a different design with a sprung quick release clip. They are interchangeable, but you'll struggle to find a JPT plug in a 7 pin configuration.

[philfingers 5]

GLP.....

 

I was looking at your thread on replacing the injector plugs just yesterday. The ones on my Mi loom are all broken. Looking at Vehicle Wiring Products (or whatever they're called) there is the JPT and the JT housings. The JPT looks to have an easier clip Q/R clip as you say. Do you know if these are interchangeable with the JT type and can you use the rubber boots on the JPT ones? their website isn't too good.

 

Chocolate. .. . . . .

Have a look here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...rs/housings.php

You want this one I think http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...rs/housings.php

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Chocolate. .. . . . .

Have a look here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...rs/housings.php

You want this one I think http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...rs/housings.php

 

Both links go to the same thing mate. But saw the 7 hole socket, so assume this was the one you mean.

 

Wiring it could be a p.i.t.a. though with 7 input wires

 

Thanks to constant rain today and a lack of a garage, I could have a proper fumble around.

[GLPoomobile 958]

GLP.....

 

I was looking at your thread on replacing the injector plugs just yesterday. The ones on my Mi loom are all broken. Looking at Vehicle Wiring Products (or whatever they're called) there is the JPT and the JT housings. The JPT looks to have an easier clip Q/R clip as you say. Do you know if these are interchangeable with the JT type and can you use the rubber boots on the JPT ones? their website isn't too good.

 

Phil, yes they are interchangeable, and yes you can re-use the rubber boots from the original JT plugs. It's exactly what I did on my loom . There is one downside I've since found with the JPT ones though, which is if you are trying to trace a fault and want to back probe a plug with a multimeter, it's not as easy on the JPT plugs as it is on the JT ones. But aside from that, I love them as the quick release clip just makes them a million times better.

 

Wiring it could be a p.i.t.a. though with 7 input wires

 

Unless the plastic housing on the plug is damaged, you shouldn't need to replace it. I think you just need a new clip, which is a thin C shaped bit of wire (but with square corners, as it fits the shape of the plug). You'll see what I mean if you examine any of the other sensors on the engine - AFM, TPS, CTS, SAD, Injectors etc - they all have them. You can't buy them seperately as far as I know but I'm sure someone on here will have a spare.

 

If you did need to replace the plug, wiring shouldn't be too difficult. Providing the original wiring is OK, you don;t need to actually re-wire anything. Just mark the position of the wires, and then with a very small flat head screwdriver you need to release each terminal from inside the plug. Once they are all out, you need to bend the tabs back out on each terminal so that when you insert them back in to the new plug they all click securely in place.

 

Hunt out my topic "I'd like to build a complete OE engine management loom" for more details and pictures on how to do this.