Mi16 Route Cooling Pipework

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

hi, just found another piccy of a water cooling diagram of how the pipework on a 205 goes onto a mi16 engine

 

 

the below picture is how i have my plumbed mine in, but not i have not connected the throttle bottle body housing pipework etc, so blanked them off.

 

 

the question is, the top photo is how i have plumbed mine in, is that ok? also i have the small rad pipe running from the top of the radiator on drivers side to the expansion bottle, and was wondering if this is needed to be connected? and can just be blanked off?

Edited November 12, 2008 by surferkid205

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Basically connect as per a normal 8v, Blank the rear pipe off that run's along the back of the cam cover, Connect the pipe above the stat to the exp bottle again as per 8v, and the rad needs to go there as well

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

Basically connect as per a normal 8v, Blank the rear pipe off that run's along the back of the cam cover, Connect the pipe above the stat to the exp bottle again as per 8v, and the rad needs to go there as well

 

 

wel the rear metal pipe that runs along the rocker cover i have kept, and they goes down the the distrubtion block at bottom of the engine, kept it as it the exhaust manifold heats the water quicker, my throttle housing isnt connected to water at all. basically i have connected the same as first picture.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

piccy below is how i have plumbed my mi16 in,

 

 

 

my top thermostat pipe (the small one with the bleed nipple on) is blocked off as that normaly connects to the throttle housing.

 

does my plumbing look ok

[Baz 421]

Looks ok, but you still need to run the pipe from the stat housing to the expansion tank, just not via the TB.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The exhaust doesn;t heat that pipe up, In the 405 it just get's water into the heater quicker with a 2 stage stat, just more pipes to burst if you have not silicone one's, but you do need the other return to the header tank

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

Looks ok, but you still need to run the pipe from the stat housing to the expansion tank, just not via the TB.

I agree, thats how I run mine on my 8v without the ones running via the TB.

 

Graham.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

I agree, thats how I run mine on my 8v without the ones running via the TB.

 

Graham.

 

cheers all, so does the picture below look better? as you can see the red line (pipe) is showing the route from the stat housing (which i did have blocked off) to the expansion tank, is this what you mean?

 

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Your diagrams are brilliant, but maybe you spend more time doing them than looking in your Haynes manual. Crystal clear diagram in there.

 

Just remember to start her up and run her for while with the expansion cap off, and following any bleed screws bottom to top to expel any air. Then replace the cap before driving off.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

Your diagrams are brilliant, but maybe you spend more time doing them than looking in your Haynes manual. Crystal clear diagram in there.

 

Just remember to start her up and run her for while with the expansion cap off, and following any bleed screws bottom to top to expel any air. Then replace the cap before driving off.

 

 

tbh i would but ive lost it since moving house

[Baz 421]

Yes that looks fine.

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

Thats how I've doen them before but not including the metal pipe along the back of the head.

 

Graham.

[Andy F 0]

sorry guys just wanted to jump on the back of this thread,

 

I wont be having a heater so wont need the bypass pipe so dos this look right, just wanted to check before i take off the outlets and tig them up

 

oh and just to check i use the 8v stat??

 

thanks

 

Edited November 13, 2008 by Andy F

[Baz 421]

That's ok yes, use a normal 8v stat yes if you're not running the metal pipe at the back of the head.