Bottom Arm Balljoint Bolt Bent

[John_B 11]

I changed the rear engine mount a few weeks ago and afterwards there was an intermittent squeak when I was on full left lock, but it wasn't that bad.

 

Yesterday I noticed a knocking sound when turning left quickly (not on full lock).

 

When I was changing the lower engine mount again today (I managed to replace the original with a knackered one ) I noticed the bottom arm balljoint bolt is bent.

 

 

Obviously this is not good. Does anyone have any idea why it may have happened?

 

I set the bolt to the torque recommended in the Haynes but then tightened it further using medium sized wrenches. I didn't feel safe leaving it at the specified torque, it felt very loose and I don't trust my 10 year old £20 torque wrench that well! Are they that sensitive to overtightening?

 

Also does anyone know the part number for a replacement bolt and hubnut for a 1989 1600?

[John_B 11]

OK from the parts disc I have 329714 for the driveshaft nut, 362230 for the bolt nut and 691874 for the bolt.

 

The last time I bought a set though the bolt part number was 692396?

 

Could anyone who can access servicebox look up the difference between 691874 and 692396 please?

[DamirGTI 327]

Bad/oval balljoint hole on the hub .. so when you tight the joint the screw bends

 

Damir

Edited November 8, 2008 by DamirGTI

[mrswampy 0]

If a curb has being ridden hard on track it can cause it

 

may be a pot hole could do the same

 

see my for sale thread for stronger 1s

[GTI6BOY 29]

they always bend?? Everytime i remove my ball joint i replace these bolts as they go like this after a few months

[Jrod 7]

I've never had a bent one and some have taken serious abuse when rallying.

[swordfish210 20]

I'v never bent one either...how odd

[pug_ham 241 3 Cars]

I've seen them bent before but not by that much.

 

Like Nick (GTI6BOY) I replace them everytime which you are supposed to do anyway.

 

Often caused by re-using the same bolt several times & over tightening them in the hub.

 

I always get a replacement bolt from a local hardware store but make sure you get a shouldered bolt so the balljoint isn't resting on the bolt thread as this allows them to move & can eventually will ruin the hub.

 

Graham.

[John_B 11]

OK I've solved the mystery, it's overtightening.

 

I was changing a driveshaft this morning and used a brand new bolt for the bottom arm, then this happened (3rd from right).

 

 

Ooops

 

I thought that the haynes specified torque of 26lbft was a little slack, so was using a half inch wrench until it felt right. Shows what I know.

 

I've ordered a couple of mrswampy's bolts, lets see if I can bend them.

[Rippthrough 98]

Yes, it's overtightening, as the clamp tightens up it moves towards the balljoint pin and bends the bolt if they're overtorqued.

 

Even worse, it puts uneven pressure on the balljoint pin and ovals the hub.

[meggy6620 0]

looks like youv strech that one lol maby the hub has ovaled out or the split for the ball joint has opend out that might be why it feels loos and when you tighten her up your trying pull the split togther that littel more and your juting too much on the bolt and it gives in .

[John_B 11]

Even worse, it puts uneven pressure on the balljoint pin and ovals the hub.

 

So my hub may be knackered?

 

Do you think it's OK if I get the new bolts and just tighten them to the correct torque?

[Rippthrough 98]

Might be, have a look underneath, preferably with a vernier...

[John_B 11]

What, measure the hole in different directions to see if it's ovaled?

[Rippthrough 98]

What, measure the hole in different directions to see if it's ovaled?

 

Pretty much, if it's bad you should be able to see it, watch the taper for your measurements though.

[John_B 11]

OK thanks Rippthrough I'll have a look when I put the new bolts in.

 

What effect would an ovaled hub have?

[Rippthrough 98]

It'll let the hub rock on the pin slightly - car will wander all over the shop.

[John_B 11]

Fingers crossed then. I think I should be OK, the car wasn't wandering after I'd bent the other two bolts and I felt like I tightened this one less than the other two (although the picture of the bolt tells a different story!). We'll have to see.

[meggy6620 0]

ye it may be ok but as rippthrough said it will rock on the pin and get wors and eventualy fall out if you hit a big bump as said if you get under it and av a look.

you can usually see the ovality and the amount of bolts youv bent i think you should be able to see the problem

easy fix is to find a low milage 205 and rob them and just pess your own center flanges in so they fit your shafts.

[Rom 0]

Good effort !

 

I do mine up with a air gun, and never done that lol

[John_B 11]

Good effort !

 

I do mine up with a air gun, and never done that lol

 

Yeah thanks!

 

Obviously there's no excuse, I've overtightened by a long way, BUT the last one (3rd) was a different colour to the others. Softer metal? Maybe!? The first two were done with an airgun by the way.

Edited January 31, 2009 by John_B

[John_B 11]

What torque do you reckon they should be done to then?

 

I think the haynes says 26lbft?

[welshpug 1,626]

just a different zinc coating, have a look at the head of the bolt and you should see some numbers like 8.8, 10.9, 12.8 or similar.

[meggy6620 0]

ye the hayes book is about right i think to be safe you may be able to go to 36ftlb but id try and get some hi tensile bolts any good fasterner company should have a good choise go or the strongest.

but id still have a good look for new hubs easey way to check is tighern upto corect torque put the wheel on and pull the wheel and if theres play then is defo the hubs.(unless you wheel bearing are knaked as well but that would be unlucky lol)

[stutto 0]

ye the hayes book is about right i think to be safe you may be able to go to 36ftlb but id try and get some hi tensile bolts any good fasterner company should have a good choise go or the strongest.

 

I would be wary of replacing say an 8.8 with a 12.9 as the 8.8 may have been specified as a lower tensile bolt is more ductile. In suspension applications an 8.8 may be chosen so that it could stretch rather than snap.

 

If possible always replace a bolt with what the designer specified.

 

My 2p.