Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
RINRIN

Shaky 205

Recommended Posts

RINRIN

Hi,

 

I heard this is common for all 205 8v's in Turkey :rolleyes: and I would like to ask you too. Imagine you select first or second gear and you are in traffic. You dont press the throttle pedal, you try to go on idle and your pug starts to jump. <_< You need to press the gas a little.

Is it the same for you. Or we have a common problem here.

 

When I ask this to the service they told me this is the same for all 205 8v's Is he lying to me?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jackherer

I believe you are referring to 'kangarooing' (try a search)

 

They don't all do it, it can be fixed, there are various causes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RINRIN

OK I made a search for 'kangarooing' and found some topics and What I understand is, If there is nor air leak or AFM fault then this 'kangarooing' is common for all 205 8v's

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jackherer

I disagree, if everything is unworn and setup correctly they do not kangaroo. Would you have bought a brand new one if it kangarood on the test drive?

 

If the engine management is 100% fine the engine mounts are a common cause, mainly the bottom one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RINRIN

Should we have a group N or other stronger engine mounts for this 'kangarooing' effect. The left engine mount is broken on my 205

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony
I disagree, if everything is unworn and setup correctly they do not kangaroo. Would you have bought a brand new one if it kangarood on the test drive?

Not sure that I agree with that - there were roadtests at the time that commented on it, and Superchips (I think it was) bought out that "chip" that "solved" the problem (just by making the on-off throttle transition stupidly rich from memory).

 

I agree that things like dodgy AFM's, incorrectly set throttle switches, and worn engine mounts make the problem much much worse though, going from a degree of kangeroo'ing is to be expected really on anything with a sharp, responsive throttle and a fuel-cut on overrun, to something that makes you look like a learner driver on their first lesson...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony
Should we have a group N or other stronger engine mounts for this 'kangarooing' effect. The left engine mount is broken on my 205

That broken engine mount really won't be helping - get that sorted first and foremost. A Group N lower mount will help, but even a new standard mount will be a massive improvement over a typical original mount that's 15-20 years old.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RINRIN

My idle is OK even with the loads. I changed the pipes a month ago. I check my TPS with multimeter and it is Ok and I set it correctly, when I push it, it clicks.

I can say that the mounts should be renewed and nothing more.

So this 'kangarooing' is common for all 205 8v's :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
projectpug

Well mine kangarood a little on standard injection but since ive change to carbs i dont get any :rolleyes:.

Defiantely do your mountings though as it wont be helping things at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pug_ham
So this 'kangarooing' is common for all 205 8v's :rolleyes:

Yes, its a known problem on the 205 GTi (all of which were 8v from the factory) imo.

 

Its basically down to the mixture of a relatively lairy camshaft, light flywheel assy & crude injection system that just cuts fuel when above 1600rpm & the throttle is closed.

 

With work it can be lessened to a great degree & you soon learn to recognise when its likely to happen & change your driving style to prevent it. The worst I've had on any of my cars was a 309 SRi but that was fixed by adjusting the accelerator cable properly because it was really slack.

 

Graham.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

solution, Fit MP3.1 management or a 2.0 Mi16/gti6 :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RINRIN

It is not that easy in Turkey compared to UK :blink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
timmsy19
solution, Fit MP3.1 management or a 2.0 Mi16/gti6 :blink:

 

i take it on the 2.0mi16/gtig its totally different fuel/air supply system? ive not read up much about the either of these two engines as you can tell :lol:

 

is it the same issues that cause it on the 1.9 16v then? i was thinking it was something to do with my worn Tb which also gives me my idle "chug" also not helped by my manifold blowing :D

Edited by timmsy19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kilauea
I disagree, if everything is unworn and setup correctly they do not kangaroo. Would you have bought a brand new one if it kangarood on the test drive?

 

If the engine management is 100% fine the engine mounts are a common cause, mainly the bottom one.

 

I had the auto-car original review of the 1.9 when it came out and it does complain of kangarooing. Brand new car.

There are obviously degrees though, my current '89 1.9 doesn't drop/hunt/lurch at all, whereas my previous '91 1.9 did a LOT.

 

Actualy, my current car did a bit when I was forced to run it on 95 RON petrol a few weeks ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
grandos

205's always run better on higher octane fuel, they just seems better suited to it, all the cars I've had have had super/optimax/ultimate used in them. (Don't use esso never like them always had running problems when using their fuel for some bizarre reason)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kilauea
205's always run better on higher octane fuel, they just seems better suited to it, all the cars I've had have had super/optimax/ultimate used in them. (Don't use esso never like them always had running problems when using their fuel for some bizarre reason)

 

Doesn't it depend on what was in them when the timing is done? I know mine had v-power in for last tune up, but surely it could just be retarded for 95 RON? Or even if you do that does it still run rubbish?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
grandos

I suppose so, my last car I never checked the timing and that responded well to super unleaded (unless the previous owner had done it). ;)

 

Must admit I always check the mixture though and try and get them running at 1.0 to 1.2% and they seem to run better and smoother, how about you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kilauea

1.5% as a rule, but didn't do this one last time. Actually it runs so well at the moment I am scared to touch it!

;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×