rex 1 Posted August 2, 2008 Hi all, Just a final question (I hope ) - having sourced another ECU and loom after my house fire and having made a new loom - I've had a few problems with the code. I sent the ECU back to a freind in the UK who succesfully retrieved the code - I've wired it in following the priceless information posted on here, but I seem to have a problem with my gagues - fuel works fine, the K light works as do the battery, indicators lights and such. However, no oil pressure light or gague (though it does seem to be showing the oil level with the ignition (though that isn't wired up ), no temperature light or gague working when runing and no oil temp either. All have been wired up according to posts here at the two main brown plugs. The wires I have left over at the keypad however make me think that this is inhibiting the gagues as they do on the missus Xantia until you have put the code in - then everything starts to work. I have: 6289 (purple) M820 earth 3085 (grey) with another wire the 305 (pink) bridged with it. Anybody got any ideas? Help, as ever, will be much appreciated! Regards, Rex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted August 2, 2008 quite a lot of these engines don't have an oil pressure sender, or associated wiring. they often do have 2 oil pressure switches though! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 2, 2008 There definitely seems to be an oil pressure sender similar to that of a std 1.9 and located in the same position... It's the lack of warning lights thats worrying me (and stopping the first and eagerly awaited test run!) Regards, Rex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 4, 2008 Anyone? Worse, this morning it won't even start at all...the starter is turning, the fuel pump is giving - but the minute I turn on the ignition, the red light on the keypad "dies" and nothing beeps or happens when I try to put the code in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 4, 2008 Ok, , after spacing the pedal box out I'd forgotten the little earth connection. Heh. What is strange is that when I un-plug the keypad (engine running) it stalls immediately rather than bypassing the code as it should. Also, what I should have mentioned earlier is that the fuel pump didn't actually cut in on the original test run - I had to shunt it with an ignition live to get the pump running (though like this it runs permanently with the ignition on). Surely someone out there knows what to do with the extra wires from the keypad I've got left after all the conversion threads I've seen here... ...pretty please Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted August 4, 2008 Ok, , after spacing the pedal box out I'd forgotten the little earth connection. Heh. What is strange is that when I un-plug the keypad (engine running) it stalls immediately rather than bypassing the code as it should. Also, what I should have mentioned earlier is that the fuel pump didn't actually cut in on the original test run - I had to shunt it with an ignition live to get the pump running (though like this it runs permanently with the ignition on). Surely someone out there knows what to do with the extra wires from the keypad I've got left after all the conversion threads I've seen here... ...pretty please Strange,We've never use the key pad or the immobiliser system yet,just disconnect the ECU when Ign live but engine not running,The wires from the ecu in the loom are then cut back insulated and tucked away. Dont know how to overcome the problem you are experiencing,maybe try starting it stop it but dont turn the key completely off,disconnect the ECU,disconnect the keypad,switch off ign and then reconnect ecu and try your luck ! If not then Im stumped,I can give you a no of a company over here in Engalnd that can remove the immobiliser circuit from the ECU but it isnt cheap. Tris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 5, 2008 Hiya Tris, Thanks for replying Well, I tried a combination of the above an it makes absolutely no difference! The damned code pad is still in charge I presume you're talking about the ECU Doctor? Kind regards, Rex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted August 5, 2008 Well as you've already said. To bypass the code, Dissconnect the keypad once its running. This also works with the ECU. Turn the car on, and just simply remove the plug from the ecu. In the past with these conversions, i ditch all the keypad etc by giving the loom switched 12v etc before the loom of the keypad. Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 5, 2008 Hi Al, Having spoken just now to the ECU doctor he's of the same opinion I've ended up with - I must have wiring issues. The first is the fuel pump not being regulated by the ECU - as before, I was forced to remove the connection from the grey fuel pump wire and shunt it straight to a switched live. This isn't great, despite the return valve sending the fuel back to the tank. Also, because of this, the fuel is on before I put the code in. The second is the gagues which still don't work. Hasn't anyone got an accurate and comprehensive list of wires so I can double check to see if I've made a boobie somewhere? Regards to all, Rex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted August 5, 2008 (edited) unsure how your keypad is wired, did it come from the donor? I have this for the later type, not sure how different the Immobiliser side of the system is but you just disregard it totally once the ECU is in an unlocked state. Edited August 5, 2008 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whizzer71 0 Posted August 5, 2008 Well as you've already said. To bypass the code, Dissconnect the keypad once its running. This also works with the ECU. Turn the car on, and just simply remove the plug from the ecu. In the past with these conversions, i ditch all the keypad etc by giving the loom switched 12v etc before the loom of the keypad. Al Basically what we do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 5, 2008 Hmmm, this get wierder - I just plugged the fuel pump in how it should be with an in-line fuse to double-check the wiring and now it's regulating properly I've ordered the complete wiring diagram from an electronics source here in France so I'll post the results in the week. I'm sure this is the wires I have left over from the keypad causing the problems, but whichever combination I try, I cannot seem to be able to get it to bypass the code and un-lock the ECU. Rex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rex 1 Posted August 5, 2008 Thanks Welshpug, I'll have a butchers at that... The code pad came from the donor, but the original ECU burnt in my house fire. It is, however, exactly the same ECU right down to the last reference. Rex Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
