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Edp

306 Gti6 Conversion

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Edp

Finally got to the stage of starting my conversion the other day. After checking everything I turned the key to hear the engine splutter into life then die. Turned it over again and did the same thing, It wanted to start but seemed to be starved of fuel.

 

Whipped the voltage tester out and tested the fuel pump wire and tuned the key, 13volts when you turn but when the key flicks back 0volts.

 

Hmmm so as a bodge and to make sure the engine would run I gave the fuel pump a permanent feed and turned the key, engine starts idles nicely and the rev counter even works, she's alive I shout but when I turn the key off she won't switch off! disconnect the perm feed and she eventually dies.

 

Now i've read some previous threads and it talks about giving the big relay a switched 12volts so I checked this tonight with my tester and it does. Now my question is should the relay click on when you turn the key to start and stay on? ie keeping the fuel pump running?

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maxi

Sounds like you have connected a permanant live to a switched live mate...... Just go back through the wiring, cant be anything that far amiss......... Bloody Sparkies! :):)

 

Maxi

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taylorspug
Now i've read some previous threads and it talks about giving the big relay a switched 12volts so I checked this tonight with my tester and it does. Now my question is should the relay click on when you turn the key to start and stay on? ie keeping the fuel pump running?

 

To a point yes it should Ed. When you turn to the second stage of the ignition the pump should prime for a few seconds and then stop.

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smighall

As long as you have switched lives on wire 2a (old 205 dash loom, out to switch live on 306 loom for ECU) and a 2nd switched live to pin 14 on the relay ( i think this is wire C30 or similar on the 306 loom) it should be fine.

Edited by smighall

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gti-si

Ignore the c12. I think c30 goes to the speed sensor. Use wire 2a (the old coil wire) as your switched live. So you only need wire cc4 (varies, basically whichever wire goes to pin 14 on the relay) and wire 123 to the lambda connected to the switched live.

 

dsc00318mt6.jpg

 

Edit: That image is abit unclear actually.

 

From left to right it's got:

 

cc4 and 123 joined to 2a

1200 (from the double relay) to 76 (to the fuel pump)

100 joined to 46b for the starter obviously

BB1 (big thick brown one) joined to a permanent live (goes to shunt box)

Edited by gti-si

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Edp
Sounds like you have connected a permanant live to a switched live mate...... Just go back through the wiring, cant be anything that far amiss......... Bloody Sparkies! :P:lol:

 

Maxi

 

Oi cheeky! wiring houses is easy compared to french looms :P

I think i'll have to pull it all apart and check it all through. It just dosent seem to keep the relay on if you know what I mean.

 

 

To a point yes it should Ed. When you turn to the second stage of the ignition the pump should prime for a few seconds and then stop.

 

When you say second stage do you mean the furthest point the key will go?

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taylorspug

The furthest point without engaging the starter yes, ie the point the key sits at when the engine is running. :P

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Edp
Ignore the c12. I think c30 goes to the speed sensor. Use wire 2a (the old coil wire) as your switched live. So you only need wire cc4 (varies, basically whichever wire goes to pin 14 on the relay) and wire 123 to the lambda connected to the switched live.

 

dsc00318mt6.jpg

 

Edit: That image is abit unclear actually.

 

From left to right it's got:

 

cc4 and 123 joined to 2a

1200 (from the double relay) to 76 (to the fuel pump)

100 joined to 46b for the starter obviously

BB1 (big thick brown one) joined to a permanent live (goes to shunt box)

 

 

Right the numbers seem different to my loom but some are the same so I should be able to work that out. The rest are basically the same with CC1 connected to the lambda wire 1234, 100 and fuel pump 46. I must admit I don't recall a large diameter wire with 1200 on it.

 

This I think is the problem. I will check the double relay tomorrow and report back. Cheers chaps.

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gti-si

You'll probably have a white wire, 120 or similar, coming from the relay to connect to the pump

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pug_ham
Ignore the c12. I think c30 goes to the speed sensor. Use wire 2a (the old coil wire) as your switched live. So you only need wire cc4 (varies, basically whichever wire goes to pin 14 on the relay) and wire 123 to the lambda connected to the switched live.

Looking at the Autodata wiring diagrams for both >05-97 & <06-97 the wire to pin 14 is either CC1, 2 or 3 & the lambda sensor (wire 123) is fed from the double injection relay via the inertia fuel shut off & only the vss is also on the ignition switched live on the <06-97 looms. On the earlier >05-97 looms it is fed from the DIR.

 

Am I reading this wrong? I'm going to pick these wires out of the GTi-6 loom I have & label them up for connecting into a 205 loom before I sell it soon.

 

Graham.

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gti-si

According to my wiring diagram, the inertia switch goes to the relay, Pin 5 and also to the fuse box. It is linked to wire 123 here. Not sure whats happened on my loom as I can't remember! There is a switched live to the VSS though so I must have a later loom. There does seem to be a lot of difference with them, even of the same age, very strange

 

The wire to pin 14 on mine is defiantly cc4, so it much be cc1, cc2, cc3, cc4.

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pug_ham
According to my wiring diagram, the inertia switch goes to the relay, Pin 5 and also to the fuse box.

Yeah thats right but its from the relay to the inertia switch & then to the fuel pump via the fusebox, it'll be the same when you connect it into the 205 loom so there is no need for an additional fuse.

 

You need the wire from the interia switch for connecting to the fuel pump wire in the 205 or direct from pin 5 if you remove the switch.

 

If you have a direct switched live to the VSS it does look like you have a later loom.

 

Graham.

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gti-si

Graham, this might explain why I've got a continuous fuel prime. I've been using a thick wire (red 1200) as the feed for the fuel pump. I have bridged the inertia switch, so should I take the wire from the inertia switch to the 306 fuse box and connect it to my pump feed instead? Maybe that will sort the fuel pump prime out?

 

DOH?!

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pug_ham
I have bridged the inertia switch, so should I take the wire from the inertia switch to the 306 fuse box and connect it to my pump feed instead?

Yes, imo the fuel pump should be fed from the inertia switch via the fuse.

 

Thats how I'm setting this loom up & how I've done it on my previous conversions.

 

Graham.

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Edp

Sorted,

 

*46 with wire 100 stater motor

 

*76 with wire from pin 5 back from the large relay for fuel pump(number unknown)

 

*1234 Lambda, CC1 to pin 14 and 465 all with large red number 2 from 205 loom (switched 12v)

 

Starts and stops on the key, engine is a bit tappy but I'm not worried at the moment. Just pleased I have it running!

 

cheers chaps

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j_turnell

Will just be the tappets, will need to fill with oil if its been sat dry for a while.

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welshpug

might also be the injectors, double check the oil level just to be sure though.

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Alastairh

Happy days :)

 

Must be close then :)

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