R1 Carbs Conversion, Jet Sizes Etc ?

[gtimon 0]

Having refitted my clutch and repairing the ball pivot post (in the other section), I also fitted my R1 40mm carbs with a Bogg's manifold at the same time.

 

The questions I have are as follows:-

 

1) What size hole have you found best in the main jet for Trackdays. ( The info I have say's 1.8mm drill for a 2ltr vaux.)??

 

2) Using the Yamaha fuel pump, do I have to remove the existing injection fuel pump from the tank or leave it there and draw through it.??

 

3) Having no use now for the return line from the injection system, can I just blank this off.??

 

4) Do I leave the Oil catch pipes that were connected to the manifold and AFM, free to breathe.??

 

5) Roughly how much do you alter the distributor timing, not having the Advance/Retard connection.

 

Thanks

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

1) What size hole have you found best in the main jet for Trackdays. ( The info I have say's 1.8mm drill for a 2ltr vaux.)??

 

Dont drill, use weber DGAS jets as the screw straight in, IIRC 125 or 140 work pretty well, its been a while since I dabbled with them

 

2) Using the Yamaha fuel pump, do I have to remove the existing injection fuel pump from the tank or leave it there and draw through it.??

 

Remove the pump from the housing and make a pick up with copper pipe, plenty of guides if you search

 

3) Having no use now for the return line from the injection system, can I just blank this off.??

 

Yes

 

4) Do I leave the Oil catch pipes that were connected to the manifold and AFM, free to breathe.??

 

You should be left with one oil return from cam cover to bottom of filler tube, and one pipe back to block. The other 2 that were on the oil cap should be T'd together and put into a catch can with a breather filter to keep the engine bay clean.

 

5) Roughly how much do you alter the distributor timing, not having the Advance/Retard connection.

 

There is no advance/retard connection that I am aware of, it was done by vaccum. You need to be getting it set up on a set of rollers, failing that just advance till it pinks then back it off a bit. Whatever route though it needs to be run on the rollers to check for correct fueling before being driven, unless you enjoy borewash or burnt valves.

[gtimon 0]

Thanks,

 

Ok, I've sorted the old pump and new, although I could not find any info.

 

My next problem is the Throttle cable, if I mount the cable as it was on the 'bike' it will foul the bonnet.

 

Has anyone any pics or tips how they overcame the problem of sorting the throttle cable.

 

Thanks again.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

Thanks,

 

Ok, I've sorted the old pump and new, although I could not find any info.

 

My next problem is the Throttle cable, if I mount the cable as it was on the 'bike' it will foul the bonnet.

 

Has anyone any pics or tips how they overcame the problem of sorting the throttle cable.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

yeah you can buy a 90 degree adapter that brings the cable straight/down. you can get them from yammy dealers. not sure of the cost thou.

[gtimon 0]

Hi Guys,

 

Just a quick question after the carbs are now fitted and working.

 

I've seen a post back from December that states Bogg Bro's have told someone that they need to block a port on the face of the carbs.

 

Would anyone know why please ?

[gtimon 0]

This the Topic I was looking at on page 2, 7th reply down, showing the Carb face and a pop rivet super glued in.

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...0carbs&st=0

 

thanks

Edited June 25, 2008 by gtimon

[pip470 61]

Hi mate, im not sure what that is blocked up for, how ever those ar not r1 carbs from the looks of it, I have r1 on mine I never blocked anything. You could ring bogg bros your self, i rang them and found them very helpfull. Hope this helps Cheers Phill

[Peetypug 5]

i never heard about blocking anything off on my R1s either

i had a bogg manifold and they told me about a few bits and bobs but never blocking anything with a rivet

[gtimon 0]

Ok,

 

Now that everything is running and I've adjusted the mixture and got the emmisions down to 2% or just under.

 

I've contacted a couple of Rollers in my area and only one can do Bike carbs. But not for at least a month.

 

Would by checking the plug tip colours after a hard run, be Ok till I can get on the roller.

IE: white/grey being weak, dark grey/black being rich and biscuit colour being correct, and listen out for any pinking.

 

Any tips ???

 

My intentions in the near future, are to fit a knock sensor and also fit a Air/Fuel gauge/sensor as I fitted to a Scoobie I had.

 

The only problem I may have on the track, would be the Carb tops touching the bonnet. I've removed the bracing from bonnet frame to give extra clearance. I've seen some fit a RS2000 mount to lower the engine.

 

Would this be Engine or Gearbox mount from the RS. ???

 

Otherwise I've thought of having a type of scoobie scoop on the bonnet front to clear the carbs and get cold air.

 

Anyone fiitted a type of scoop or cowl. ??? Pics please

 

Thanks

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

please dont fit the vent, it will ruin the look of the 205 and also you'll drown the filter in wet weather. Get an auto bonnet if possible or lower the engine, a search will bring up all the options for lowering either by a modified engine mount or use of an RS one.

 

Also, any quick RR session should be able to tell you how its fueling through the rev range, it wont have to be a bike carb specific one, just a quick power run attached to an emmisions tester. Its not wise to go off the plug colour as you may have a normal looking plug when in fact the engine has went from normal at idle to rich midrange and lean top end.

Edited June 27, 2008 by Richie-Van-GTi

[gtimon 0]

Spoken to Bogg bros and they say that for a 1.9 the 1.8mm dia for the main jet as shown in the Vauxhall topic of fitting the Bike carbs, would over fuel and a 1.6mm would be best suited as a starting point for a Trackday only.

 

Found them very Helpful.

 

Yes I agree, I think it will a engine lowering job. But I've spent 20mins doing a search through several topics without any success with various words where I can't use 'RS' as a word.

 

So has anyone a clue whether its the RS Engine or Gearbox mount needed to lower the egine. Please

 

Thanks

[gtimon 0]

OK I finally found it, its a RS2000 engine mount.

 

Before I go and get one, are they both the same for each side of the RS engine if not which one do I need.????

 

thanks