Fitting The Cambelt And Accurate Cam Timing Mi16

[philfingers 5]

As there are two adjustable tensioners, whats the best way to do it. As I see it by having the adjustment up on one or up on the other more/ less etc can alter the cam timing. slightly. Is there a best way to do this. I have access to a dial gauge if neccesary. running 4 ex and 2 inlet pulleys.

 

Phil

[jackherer 543]

You want those pulleys the other way round, 4 inlet 2 exhaust.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

I've always found that when the belt is loosely put on that the front tensioner is always set at it's tightest point then use the rear tensioner to tension the whole lot.

[Stu 18]

^^^^^^ As above, thats how i usually set mine. That way, once the belt is on and tensioned, should it be a little tight after running this pully is a lot easier to get to and adjust off through the inner arch.

[philfingers 5]

You want those pulleys the other way round, 4 inlet 2 exhaust.

 

Are you sure about this? I looked when i got the engine and found they were 4 ex and 2 inlet. Which is what I found was the recommendation when i did a search?

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

I tensioned up the front first, which I think is how Mr.Haynes tells you to do it too. That's the downwards run of the belt - the bit under tension, if you like, so it makes sense.

 

FWIW, if you've got the old tensioner bolts with a torx drive capped head, Pug have revised these to conventional hex headed bolts with a captivated washer - and they are much easier to tighten in the tight space with a conventional spanner than the old things! Also I have more faith in their conventional washer design too. Only problem is supplied in packs of 10 from Pug - but if you want a couple, I have 8 here

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

FWIW, if you've got the old tensioner bolts with a torx drive capped head, Pug have revised these to conventional hex headed bolts with a captivated washer - and they are much easier to tighten in the tight space with a conventional spanner than the old things! Also I have more faith in their conventional washer design too. Only problem is supplied in packs of 10 from Pug - but if you want a couple, I have 8 here

 

I've also changed my Mi16 to these, far far superior, and the captive washer is also a belville locking type.

[jackherer 543]

Are you sure about this? I looked when i got the engine and found they were 4 ex and 2 inlet. Which is what I found was the recommendation when i did a search?

 

Peter T's site seems to agree - http://www.taylor-eng.com/xu9j4/16v_overview.html

[philfingers 5]

Peter T's site seems to agree - http://www.taylor-eng.com/xu9j4/16v_overview.html

mmm odd. I'm sure when I reaed through all the stuff it said go for 4 on the exhaust and 2 on the inlet?

[jackherer 543]

The only time I've ever seen a 4 on the exhaust was an engine that had 4s on both cams and I replaced it with a 2.

 

We're finally planning on MOTing the red car we got from you next week BTW...

[philfingers 5]

The only time I've ever seen a 4 on the exhaust was an engine that had 4s on both cams and I replaced it with a 2.

 

We're finally planning on MOTing the red car we got from you next week BTW...

 

sorry, the penny drops! Send me some epics of it all done! I'll do a proper scout about then re the pulleys and see what is should be running. Damn cammy 8v's! It does go well but off cam it's a bit of a bitch TBH

[marksorrento205 80]

If it helps my engine I have just bought comes with 2 on ex and 4 on the inlet.

[taylorspug 7]

Generally running a 2 inlet 4 exhaust will make the engine very 'cammy', but give less low down torque than running the pulleys the other way around. They all seem to come differently, my original MI came with the 2 inlet 4 exhaust combo, and i stuck with this after trying it the other way (4 inlet 2 exhaust) and not liking the amount of power it robbed at the top end.

[James_R 3]

there's always running 2 on both inlet nad exhuast, I found this the best compramise on mine before.

[kyepan 291]

Dn terms of tightening sequence, do the one the haynes says to take up most of the slack(my brain says rear first but not sure). However you want the tension fairly evenly distributed between the pullys, too much on one and not enough on the other will retard or advance the ignition.

 

cheers

 

J

[kyepan 291]

Oh yes and tension wise, you should be able to twist the belt to deflect about 70 degrees on the longest run (front) once again this is listed in the haynes. It's still important not to over tension (tensioners will squeal and belt noise will increase) so leave the covers off when you first fire it up to check your tension audibly. In case you need to reduce tension.