Starter Motor

[TaffyTim 6]

Is the starter motor for the 8v the same as the one on the 16v?

[welshpug 1,626]

they both fit yes, but the 16v starter is far superior (lighter + longer lasting)

Edited March 16, 2008 by welshpug

[rescue dude 0]

I have a starter motor from a Citroen zx volcane in my 8v, works fine.

[welshpug 1,626]

funny that, the Volcane was 8valve

 

 

was it the smaller type though?

[rescue dude 0]

Yes was the smaller type and a valeo too.

 

Can't remember if it was 8 valve or not but it was the 2.0i.

 

Thinking about the original question, as the blocks are virtually identical i would have thought that the starter motors would be interchangeable.

Edited March 16, 2008 by rescue dude

[GTI6BOY 29]

They are all interchangerble but have different power out puts

 

I got a 306 HDI starter fitted to my 6 engine and it fires up straight away

[returnofjim 0]

All depends on the block your fitting to and the make of starter motor, ive had an 8v starter what wouldnt fit a gti6 block. Also a used 8v starter wont last very long on a 16v.

[welshpug 1,626]

They are all interchangerble but have different power out puts

 

I got a 306 HDI starter fitted to my 6 engine and it fires up straight away

 

 

now that's interesting to know seeing as its a DW not an XU

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

I have a 6 starter on my XU9 and it sounds all manly when it starts!!! One of the best things I did!

[TaffyTim 6]

Next thing is, how do i get the bugger out?

 

Is it inlet manifold off or radiator out jpbbie?

 

ps

there is a company that re conditions starter motors not too far from me so no need for me to find a 2nd hand one

[Grim.Badger 15]

If you still have the huge original one then by far the easiest way of removing it is to take off the inlet manifold; although as long as you don't have the rear bracket and oil cooler it can squeeze off if you remove the alternator.

I would not get an original large starter re-conditioned as they are apparently unreliable even when refreshed and you can pick up a working 16v one for £20 from a scrapyard (my local scrapyard guaranties parts for a limited time, in fact they all should under some trade act). You should also renew the connection on the starter solenoid (originally a spade connector but it is a ring on later types) as it will no doubt have corroded badly over time; in fact it may be worth replacing the wire back to before the multiplug as well if you still have a multiplug.

[TaffyTim 6]

Thanks for the info Grim.Badger

 

I managed to get teh manifold off and have a look at the starter motor, and i think i can see the problem:

 

My problem now is that i cant get the 8mm allen key bolts off. Ive put an extension bar on the allen key and it flexes with the force and runs out of room to move before loosening the bolts

 

Can anyone offer any tricks to removing the gits? Is there an 8mm bit i can buy to put on the end of a ratchet?

[Grim.Badger 15]

You should be able to get a socket with an 8mm allen peice fitted into it from Halfrauds; I use the attachments from my impact driver

[TaffyTim 6]

You should be able to get a socket with an 8mm allen peice fitted into it from Halfrauds; I use the attachments from my impact driver

 

 

Cheers, I got one (or a belt of hex keys) from there on tuesday, I also got some money knocked off as they had obviously been used, and Im off there tomorow to exchange them as the 8mm hex came out of its socket on first usage, grr. But it still did the job and im now 95% done.

 

If I had a garage I would have finished off the job tonight, but the light faded and I couldnt continue as i couldnt find the plug that goes onto the afm. I did enough to try and turn the engine over and it turned so happy days

 

One thing i did break apart from my back was a (breather???) tube going from what i presume is a fuel regulator to the inlet manifold:

 

 

Can i just pop to my local motor factor to replace this or is it a trip to peugeot?

Edited March 19, 2008 by TaffyTim

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

The 8v starter is slightly shorter in length and thus preferable for a 16v conversion.

The starter motor with a little patience drops out underneath without the need for removing anything other than the oil filler, and your only need to remove this to pull the wires off.

 

If the starter has the additional plate on it where it is clamped to the block then it is a bit more of a pain. Otherwise you should have it out in 30mins.

Edited March 19, 2008 by Simes

[TaffyTim 6]

Otherwise you should have it out in 30mins.

 

 

I wish, lol

[Grim.Badger 15]

I'm fairly sure that hose is the vac advance pipe, the car will not run right with it split. Not sure where you would get one from tbh but try PUG, they may be cheap

[TaffyTim 6]

Thanks again GB, I went to a motor factors today and they gave me a similar tube that came off, it seems to be working fine.

 

 

So all bits are finally on and the car is running again as ive just come back from my first test drive.

 

Who would have thought undoing 3 bolts then putting them back on could take 3 to 4 nights

 

Ive booked Goodwood for the 12th April, Im not sure what component is going to break then, if nothing goes pop i'll be dumbfounded.

 

Thanks again for the help

Tim

[TaffyTim 6]

Arrggghh.... Its died already!!!!! Thats only a month and a half!!!!

 

Im going for Simes approach tomorrow, hopefully the horrible thing will come out in half an hour.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Tim

 

Was your new one a big or slim body one? From experance as if you get a big body one I guess all they do is give them a lick of paint and send them out again as if you bench test them they all normally work, as would take a wire direct from the swiched side to the battery it would turn over.

[TaffyTim 6]

Ive only ever seen mine so i cant say if its a big u nor a lil' one, theres a pic of it above so maybe you can tell?

 

The guy at FB Electrics reconned the one i gave him, so it will be the same as that pictured.

[welshpug 1,626]

original XU9 type starter and smaller XU10 starter.

 

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Thats the big bugger's which as said work when bench tested so only very minor work is done on them, Really I guess it would need new windings etc to make it work as it should, but even when new they where never very good, The slim ones thou to date I have never had one go wrong (Famous last words)

[Grim.Badger 15]

I've got a slimline one for sale for £10

 

I'm fairly sure I've heard from lots of people on here that even when reconditioned the big ones still give problems, but it could be worth changing the starter/alternator main positive loom as well (the big thick chunky wires); it should be easy enough to find a nice clean replacement from an XU engined 306.

[jackherer 543]

The slim ones thou to date I have never had one go wrong (Famous last words)

 

I had a nightmare of a problem with a slim starter, it turned my engine over fine but there was no fuel/spark. If I took the plugs out and turned it over they sparked fine and fuel was injected but as soon as I put them back in and there was a load on the starter due to compression it drained so much current the ECU died under cranking. After a long time trying to figure out what was happening the starter self destructed spectacularly (lots of smoke) so I fitted a new one and was most surprised when the engine fired straight up.