Guest matty D Posted March 12, 2008 Although I have been lurking here for a while, thi is my first proper post, so go easy! Ive got a couple of issues with my Gti6 engined 205. I did a track day at Brands Hatch yesterday, and the car behaved impecably up until the last session (about 100 miles since start of day). It seemed to drop off some power at the top end, as if it was mis firing. The petrol was about 1/4 full and I first thought it was fuel starvation after a long right hander. Anyway, after that I called it a day and headed home. On the way back, the engine lacked the initial urgency low down the rev range, but after that it pulled fine. It did however sound a little rougher than before. I know thats not a very good explanation, but I dont know how else to describe it. Also, on track the temp never got near the red, and the oil pressure stayed about half way (which I thought was good) but on the way home cruising on the motorway, the temp was almost in the red, and the pressure was non existent on the guage. What could cause this? I checked oil and water levels befor during and after the track day. The other thing was on the way home in the rain and dark, the windscreen wipers went on a go slow( ie 1/4 normal speed) and the lights were about as bright as a candle. Not very nice driving like that Ok so sorry for the rambling, but I know pretty much squat about mechanics, and Im too skint to take it to the garage, so would like to learn and save money by sorting this by myself if poss. Anybody got any ideas what could be causing the above symptoms? Lack of power, rough engine, high temp/low pressure, and weak electrics. Please can someone help PS I hope this is in the right forum! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simes 248 2 Cars Posted March 12, 2008 Sounds like it maybe your alternator starting to give up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 12, 2008 Sounds like it maybe your alternator starting to give up. Ok cheers. That would explain the weak electrics, but would that also cause the pressure/temp and power drop issues? Also is the alternator an easy DIY job? Im desperate to get it sorted cos Im supposed to be at Castle Coombe on friday and I darent take it as is. Thanks, Matt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted March 12, 2008 Ok cheers. That would explain the weak electrics, but would that also cause the pressure/temp and power drop issues? Possibly, concentrate on the electrical problem to start with and hope for the best. Do you have a multimeter? If not get hold of one, they are very cheap these days and if you can see what voltage your battery is with the engine on and off you can get a very good idea of what is wrong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fletch 0 Posted March 12, 2008 Wonder if your bottom end bearings are worn... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
luggy 13 Posted March 12, 2008 Change the oil and oil filter, it maybe that due to the electrical issue you have, that the fuel/air mix wasnt being fully combusted and thefeore suffering bore wash, thinning your oil causing oil temp to rise and pressure to drop. Or I maybe talking complete and utter bollocks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonnie205 1 Posted March 12, 2008 bore wash is nonsense, i would check you alternator is giving out 14+ V on idle. The oil pressure issue will almost certainly be a loose connection or the like. The swicth is located on front of engine just have a fiddle while a mate watches gauge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 12, 2008 Ok thanks for the comments, Ill test the alternator tommorow when I get a multimeter. If it is the alternator, wheres the best place to get one from. Pug dealer? Failing that any other ideas what it could be? Ive changed the oil and filter, and although I havent had a good run to see if the temp/pressure problem is sorted, it seems smoother. Was a right pain having to raise the back end up really high to drain the sump! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonnie205 1 Posted March 12, 2008 why did you raise the back to drain sump? i have some good gti6 alternators if you find it to be faulty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205007 12 Posted March 12, 2008 is it just me or are people ignoring whats happened here? engine sounding rough oil pressure non existant water temp in the red those 3 things are not random! not wishing to piss on your chips but this is not going to be cured by an oil and filter change, i would seriously recommend you do not do any more trackdays or drive the car any distance until you have done a compression test and removed the sump and checked the shells otherwise your just risking a more expensive failure than has already occurred Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 12, 2008 why did you raise the back to drain sump? i have some good gti6 alternators if you find it to be faulty Because the engine is angled backwards so the sump plug is higher leaving a couple of litres oil in the sump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonnie205 1 Posted March 12, 2008 sorry i cant understand that, the sump plug is on rear of sump, if anything i would jack front of car up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 12, 2008 sorry i cant understand that, the sump plug is on rear of sump, if anything i would jack front of car up Ha ha shows how little I know! I drained it from the plug on the front that has a sensor attached! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted March 13, 2008 Check alternator - that will sort the dimming lights part. Check coil packs as i've seen that happen before on GTi-6, rough on idle, poor pickup at low revs, but then will pull fine higher up. And definately check the bottom shells, as a check will only take 30 minutes. Like 205007 says, if you find it now, it will be a hell of alot cheaper to fix if something is wrong! Good luck and keep us informed! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fletch 0 Posted March 13, 2008 is it just me or are people ignoring whats happened here?engine sounding rough oil pressure non existant water temp in the red those 3 things are not random! not wishing to piss on your chips but this is not going to be cured by an oil and filter change, i would seriously recommend you do not do any more trackdays or drive the car any distance until you have done a compression test and removed the sump and checked the shells otherwise your just risking a more expensive failure than has already occurred Agreed! Id say this issue is a bit higher priority than th electrical problem! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 13, 2008 Ok Ive got hold of a multimeter but havent got the foggiest idea of how to use it to test the alternator. There is a big dial on the front with loads of different settings! And then how do you actually test the alternator? Also, to check the shells, is it just a matter of taking the sump off? And pugman, thanks for your post but (excuse my blatant ignorance) what are and where are the coil packs and how do I check those? TIA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhilCTI 1 Posted March 13, 2008 Ok Ive got hold of a multimeter but havent got the foggiest idea of how to use it to test the alternator. There is a big dial on the front with loads of different settings! And then how do you actually test the alternator? Also, to check the shells, is it just a matter of taking the sump off? And pugman, thanks for your post but (excuse my blatant ignorance) what are and where are the coil packs and how do I check those? TIA The easiest way to the use the multimeter is to test the voltage, Your looking for a setting that has a V with a straight and a dotted line parallel to each other which is DC Volts. There will be another V with a wavy line which is for testing AC Voltage like in your house. With the engine turned off, put the test leads across the battery and see what the voltage is reading, ie 11 - 12 volts, then test it again with the engine running and if the alternator is ok it will read around 14 Volts, if no change from the first time the alternator isn't charging either because of a faulty wire/connection or the alternators duff. Phil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted March 13, 2008 its not ignorance mate. Its all about learning! Do the voltage test first. Let the engine warm up nicely, and check the oil temp and pressure guage aswell. The coil packs are the little square black things that sit on top of the engine, above the spark plugs. Not sure how you could test them to be honest. And as for checking the bottom shells. You would need to drain the oil. take off the sump. look up into the engine and you should see 4 rods (conrods) going upwards. You would need to turn the crank with a socket to get the rod to its lowest point. Then undo the 2 nuts, and tap off the semi circle piece of metal (called end journal i think). Then look at the thin metal layer to see if you can see any damage. I dont advise this though, if you feel you cant do it. i.e, your not sure of how to do it. Try seeing if anyone in your area can help out maybe? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 13, 2008 Ok, based on the advise above Ive prioritised checking the shells. So far ive drained the sump and undone all the bolts holding the sump on. However, it appears to be stuck solid still from what seems to be a sealing compount( same thing the bolts were covered in). Unless there are any bolts that I have missed (ive removed all those pointing directly up), whats the knack to getting the sump off? With regards to testing the alternator, it seems I bought a duff multimeter as it wouldnt even turn on, so that will have to wait. At least now I know how to test it though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted March 13, 2008 just gently prise a large screwdriver in between the sump and the block. That will break the sealing compund Pug puts on the engine from factory. If your unsure of the results of checking the shells. post some pics up and people will advise you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,626 Posted March 13, 2008 on the gti6 some of the gearbox bolts go into the sump as well as the block. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest matty D Posted March 13, 2008 on the gti6 some of the gearbox bolts go into the sump as well as the block. That'll be where Im going wrong then Cheers! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonnie205 1 Posted March 13, 2008 No, with a 5 speed no bellhousing bolts go into sump Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taylorspug 7 Posted March 13, 2008 Unless using a Xsara box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
