Guest AdamLoewy Posted March 4, 2008 Hi Guys, I have been searching through all the old posts on Pinking and setting the ignition timing but can't find anything matching my symptoms. I've got a 91 1.6 GTi with around 90k on the engine running a cone K&N filter and very standard other than that. The engine is currently pinking loads on the over run and on part throttle. I've tried retarding the ignition (was fully advanced) and that didn't help other than making the engine very flat and slow. The vac pipe is not attached to the underside of the dizzy and can't find / see where it should attach too. If anyone could send pics that'd be brilliant! I'm concerned that it might be my engine eating itself and not pinking but there is no smoke from the exhaust and the engine feels strong. I'm going to put some 97ron, as its currently got 95ron in it to, to see if that helps. Any advice would be very grateful as its my daily driver! Thanks, Adam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trialster 0 Posted March 4, 2008 once the advance vacuum pipe has been attached, it should make things clearer! the pipe runs from the underside of the throttle body the the distributor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
base-1 17 Posted March 4, 2008 It shouldn't pink on the overrun as the fuel is cut off down to something like 1500rpm, when it starts injecting again. Nothing to burn..... no pinking Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,626 Posted March 4, 2008 unless the TPS in a duff one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AdamLoewy Posted March 5, 2008 Thanks Guys, Attached a new Vac Pipe last night and it has made no difference to the noise. I am no longer sure that its pinking, that i'm hearing as retarding the Dizzy makes no difference and Base-1 says it shouldn't be pinking on the over run, below 1,500rpm. How would i check for a duff TPS? Need to eliminate everything! The noise is coming from very far left cylinder / timing belt cover. Is there any chance it could be a loose cambelt tensioner / belt? Is this easy to check? Can it be done without pulling the entire engine apart? Thanks for you help, Adam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simonb 0 Posted March 5, 2008 Sounds to me like a loose timing belt that is slapping against something on it's longest run (at the front). I would get the covers off and see if it's slack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j_turnell 134 3 Cars Posted March 5, 2008 As above check the tension on the belt ASAP if i was you. Probably a fubard tensioner, worth changing along with belt and water pump if you have no record of it being done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
base-1 17 Posted March 5, 2008 Cripes yeah, check that belt soon as or it could get expensive! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AdamLoewy Posted March 6, 2008 Thanks for your help guys! Have booked it in to have the cambelt replaced along with the tensioners & water pump. Am going to check on it this lunch time, as i'm going to have to drive it too Just GTi's and i live in Clapham, one very nerve wracking journey ahead! Fingers crossed! Adam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted March 6, 2008 Get under the front of the car and you should find an exposed part of the cambelt, check it for tension first because if its already gone slack it shouldn't be driven. Changing a camblet and tensioner is a pita but a very easy job and only needs four tools iirc (10mm spanner, 11mm spanner, jack and a tool to retract the tensioner such as a 3/8 socket turned around, or just push it back with your thumb ) so I think its worth having a go yourself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AdamLoewy Posted March 6, 2008 Checked under the car just now and can't see the cambelt, only the belt driving the alternator. The car is in my work carpark and i'm driving straight to the garage about 25miles, i just hope that it doesn't give up on the drive there! They've quoted £165 +vat for the job which is pretty reasonable for cambelt & tensioner and i'll get them to do the water pump at the same time. Just hope it isn't too late, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simonb 0 Posted March 6, 2008 It should be OK. Just don't do any hard acceleration from a stand still. When the engine is turning, the tension in the belt will tighten slightly which is why you don't hear the crackling noise all the time - just on the overrun as the engine slows down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted March 6, 2008 (edited) I'm sure you can see the belt around the back of the engine, just above the crank pulley, but I could easily be wrong or I could be missing a cover £165+vat is a bit much, I hope they are using a decent quality tensioner for that price. Last time I had a belt done for me it cost £120 inc Vat with the tensioner. Funnily enough I had it done because the tensioner had collapsed, all I had was a slack belt and a handfull of ball bearings The scream from the belt/tensioner was unbelievable, to this day I have no idea how I managed not to bend any valves Be careful what water pump they use; I've compared a cheap one (c.£20) next to an expensive one (c.£60) and the difference is huge with regards build quality. Cheap ones just have peices of metal welded onto a plate but expensive ones have properly shaped and cast impellors which will be much more efficient. Edited March 6, 2008 by Grim.Badger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simonb 0 Posted March 6, 2008 For that money - I would strongly advise you to invest in some tools, do the job yourself and still have some pennies left for a beer at the end of the afternoons work. It really isn't a bad job if you have a spare afternoon. most fidly part is getting the belt covers off but after that it's a doddle - just keep the coffee coming. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AdamLoewy Posted March 7, 2008 Just to update: Made it to Just GTi's after probably the slowest ever trip in a 205 GTi!!! 45mph down the A24 in 5th! Not fun and no bent valves so well worth it! Will hopefully get the diagnosis tomorrow, so here's hoping no serious damage has been done! Adam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 327 Posted March 7, 2008 (edited) They've quoted £165 +vat for the job which is pretty reasonable for cambelt & tensioner and i'll get them to do the water pump at the same time. You must be joking that's way too much money for this job garages here in my country are charging around 20-30.00 quid for cambelt/tensioner replacement on these cars (but you're buying spare parts by yourself which is the end still much cheaper + you can choose which brand of parts you wish to buy .. or they can buy the parts for you if you prefer that option .. however the total price never gets over the 50-60.00 quid with all the parts included) Rgs ! Damir Edited March 7, 2008 by DamirGTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted March 7, 2008 garages here in my country are charging around 20-30.00 quid for cambelt/tensioner replacement on these cars That wont even get you an hours labour here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 327 Posted March 7, 2008 That wont even get you an hours labour here! Well , over here one hour of labour is from 7.00 up to maxi 10.00 quid (VAT included !) in ordinary mechanic garages (unlicensed , which are repairing all types/brands of cars..) and from 12.00 up to 20-25.00 quid in OE mechanic garages (OE service garages for particular brand of a car ..) Must move to you're country and earn some money from what i see it'll be enough few months of work for filling pockets Regards ! Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted March 10, 2008 (Sorry for going OT ) Standard labour costs around me are £35-45/h for normal garages, BMW will charge you about £100/h and you can increase these prices hugely in London. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 327 Posted March 10, 2008 (edited) (Sorry for going OT ) Standard labour costs around me are £35-45/h for normal garages, BMW will charge you about £100/h and you can increase these prices hugely in London. I'll pack my bags straight away and i'm off to England i know that the mechanic garages are a bit expensive in some countries (such as Italy , so you can often find good/complete cars at scrapyards in Italy with untouched bodywork with absolutely no rust but just a "minor" mechanic damage like say a blown head gasket , cos the garages are expensive and the owner doesn't want to bother spending money on repairing that and he decide to get rid off it ... few years ago i've seen so much 205GTi-s at scrapyards in Italy in mint states with some really silly , easy to repair , mechanic/electric malfunctions ..) .. but these yours UK prices are a bit scary Regards ! Damir Edited March 10, 2008 by DamirGTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest AdamLoewy Posted March 12, 2008 OK so problem finally diagnosed! Turned out to be a duff alternator with knackered bearings, it was a fairly newish (lucas) alternator so that's why i never suspected it! New alternator now fitted and the horrid noise has gone! Can't believe i initially thought that the noise was pinking! Doh! Oh well turned out alright in the end! Thank you for all your help guys! Adam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted March 12, 2008 That's good. IMO pinking is one of those things that you'll be forever confused about until you experience it, but once you do hear it under the right circumstances you'll recognise it immediately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
