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Dream Weaver

Leaking Sump - Anyone Fixed It For Good?

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Dream Weaver

I had a tin sump on my Mi which used to leak rather annoyingly - nothing major, but when parked up (especially visible in the wet), or when parked in my garage it would always leave 4 or 5 drops after a run. Not enough to induce loads of oil top ups between servicing but annoying none the less.

 

So on the advice of my MOT/mechanic dude I decided to re-seal the sump using Loctite sump sealer, and whilst at it fitted an alloy sump as well.

 

It took me ages, but finally it was all done and topped up with oil, and after the initial run it seemed OK, but its now back to its old tricks and this time its leaking even more oil :lol:

 

The gearbox also leaks a bit as well.

 

I really want to get this fixed now as its stopping me using the car and I've only used it twice since November :(

 

Has anyone had their sump sealed and managed to get a none leaking Mi16? I don't have time to do it myself, so I'm going to take it to my mech chap to have it done for £50 or so, I just hope he can get it all sealed properly then I can look at the gearbox leak also.

Edited by Dream Weaver

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welshpug

not had a leak yet, but I've only done a handful, just be meticulously clean and make sure the surfaces are dry.

 

also let the sealant go tacky before bolting down and don't overdo the tightening.

 

If you can get it Wurth sealant is the best I've used, have used Nissan sealant too and this was very similar.

 

Where is it leaking from the box? if its the driveshafts then I'd suggest getting some seals from Peugeot, they don't cost a great more than pattern parts but do last much longer.

Edited by welshpug

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DamirGTI

I did , and with the clear silicone :( ... (according to "PumaRace" recommendations :lol: )

 

Cheers ! B)

Damir

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taylorspug

All the ones ive done bar my own (typical) didnt leak, and that was with black Loctite silicone. The only other one ive seen un-leaky had a gasket on it. That Wurth stuff is good, and will usually seal most things up, pain to remove from your hands though!

 

Best thing to do is make sure all surfaces are clean and de-greased, i usually find its a good idea to key both surfaces with a bit of wet and dry aswell.

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Miles

I seal all mine with Wurth RTV, Never had a leak with it yet on both Tin and Alloy sump's. I do leave it to dry out for a good day or 2 thou just bearing on the cautious side I know

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uncle buck

I've had a constant annoying leak from the sump gasket on my XUD engine despite trying to reseal it about 5 times over a period of 8 years! :lol:

 

I have used dealer sump gaskets, home made sump gaskets etc...all fitted with RTV silicone on both sides & everything meticulously cleaned & wiped down with cellulose thinners before reassembly. I have even left the engine a couple of days with no oil in to make sure the RTV was fully cured....but still in a week or two the oil leak has always reappeared. :angry:

 

However the last time I tackled the job I succeeded :D .....

 

If you look at the tin sump, around the sealing face that mates with the block there are reinforcing creases pressed into it in between each bolt hole. These creases are pressed upwards and on my sump they were about 2mm high....so they will contact the face of the block before the rest of the sump sealing face.

I came to the conclusion that the reinforcing creases were the problem & in a $hit or bust moment decided to remove them with a grinder :o

 

Once removed I refitted the sump with a home made gasket cut from some cardboard I had (cornflake box quality cardboard) & RTV silicone as on previous occasions.

 

Now a couple of months or so later the sump is as dry and oil free .......well...... as a very dry & oil free thing. :D

Edited by uncle buck

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C_W

My sump's always leaked to some degree too, have tried to do it many times. It was worse for a while but it turned out to be the crankshaft end oil seal which was leaking out of the flywheel cover and dripping down the back of the sump and diff.

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Grim.Badger

I managed to get mine to seal.

I cleaned off the old sealant and gasket, rubbed it down with WD40 and a cotton cloth, waited a while for it to dry and then buffed it down with a clean cotton cloth. I then fitted the spacer using clear loctite silicon between the spacer and block, and a Pug gasket between the sump and spacer with no sealant. I hand tightened the bolts and tweaked them up from the middle outwards, by feel rather than using a torque wrench, and left it two days to set before adding oil.

 

I wonder if there may be a slight uneveness in your blocks mounting face :lol:

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Atari Boy

I too have a leaking sump and was planning on getting it sorted with the aid of a mate, this would mean driving the car t0 his, refilling it with oil and driving is back afterwards, is that a real no no then?

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welshpug

you really do need to leave it for a minimum of 30 minutes, as Miles commented it seems the longer you can leave it the better (IIRC most say 24-48hrs for complete curing)

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tidypug

Is it deff the sump? I thought mine was leaking, so after trying 2 different sumps and trying to re-seal them many times i traced the leak back to the seals that go down the main bearing caps at the gearbox end. I'd split them when i put them in. My leak was oil dripping from the back corner of the engine next to the gearbox.

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Dream Weaver

Fairly sure its the sump as we had it up on ramps running and you could see it dripping out slowly.

 

I'm going to check it all out first though and see if I can see anything.

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Henry 1.9GTi

hermatite gold, nice n sticky! hasnt leaked yet. smeared either side of the gasket and used hermatite red? i think on the spacer plate.

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