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benny205mi16

Mi16 Rebuild

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benny205mi16

Hello, This is the first time I have had anything to do with a mi16 or 205. I have always had cars or bike and done the odd jobs on them, but this is the first engine change. I am planning on doing it myself for the experince and then knowing which way the conversion has been done. I brought a mi16 engine (its actually the bx gti 16v) from ebay, it had been stripped had some work done and was ready for a re-build, the work the last owner had done was as follows

rebuilt head, new valve guides, multi-angle seats and a skim.

new piston liners.

new piston rings.

crankshaft polished.

new main/big end bearings.

new water pump.

lightened and balanced flywheel.

peugot motorsport sump baffle.

new timing belt and trnsion bearings.

new mi16 clutch, a starter and a new alternator.

 

I have the original wiring loom and ECU which is the way I intend on instaling the engine.

 

So what I am asking is there anything else obvious I should replace or upgrade, any known weak points that would require changing before or during the rebuild.

 

I am going to use the car as my daily car, having said that I would still like it to be quick with a little tuning/upgrades of some sort.

 

Any help/ advice is very appreciated as my knowledge is limited on these all I have it what I have read on this site and a few others, but no practicle.

Thank you

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dave_gti

i cant help, but fair play to you, i do odd jobs but i have never fancied playing with engines as it seems there is so much to go wrong, so i took mine to DES Developments to get rebuilt :)

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benny205mi16

I did think about taking it to be done some where, but am am quite looking forward to the day when it comes to starting it and thinking I built that, that is if it starts. That and the cost of paying some one to do it.

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benny205mi16

Hello, can anyone help me, all I want to know is there any known weak points/components where it is better to use up rated versions instead of standard.

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pp205

Hi,

 

the only uprated parts I have used is a set of engine mounts that I got from BBM who advertise on this site and give discount to members. I got these as the head sits very close to the master cylinder and I am using a standard inlet manifold which will sit close to the radiator (when I have put it in!!) The mounts will reduce movement of the lump so it doesn't hit the master cylinder/radiator.

 

I think the only other different thing I got were the fuel line and banjo from the filter to the injector rail and the fuel return pipe, these are easy enough to buy but I know Spoox sell them cut to size.

 

I also plan to get a silicone hose kit for all the water pipes that BBM do although I am waiting for the red set to be available. I have had many burst water hoses in a number of 205's (the 2 hoses that connect above the bulkhead) and don't want to risk it again,

 

Cheers Simon

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boldy205

nothing really needed, but as said a set of uprated mounts will (should) help keep the cam belt cover away from the master cylinder. When fitting to a 205 the standard 405 mi16 (and i presume the BX) exhaust manifold will hit the bulkhead, best way to sort this is to buy a angle plate from QEP and fit a gasket either side of it. Call QEP (a forum sponsor) they will sort you out. Very helpfull people!!!!

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sussex_gti

as above, make sure you've stronger engine mounts, and a good radiator, preferably alloy. Also the correct angle'd manifold. Im currently doing the same conversion, and im also fitting new front and rear main oil seals, thermostat, sump gasket and rocker cover gasket.

 

Out of intrest Dave, how did you find Des Developments work? They've been nothing but really helpful whenever ive spoken to them.

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benny205mi16

I will invest in some BBM mounts and coolant hoses. I have a QEP exhaust manifold adapter, so I will get two gaskets one for each side. Thank you for your help

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James_m

Group N mounts are not essential. I dont run them, and yes my cam cover hits the MC :D but others with non group N mounts dont suffer the problem.

They seem a bit extreme for a daily driver IMO

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Baz

My (old now :sob:) Blue Mi16 ran otherwise std mounts, TD lower one, with no issues.

 

If you're asking more to do with the engine rebuild, usual stuff really, think about having it lightened and balanced, and rebuild it using common sense, using ARP bolts etc, at least new OE ones for rods etc, new water pump, cambelt tensionner etc. Do it properly once. :D

 

Also get yourself an xu10 oil pump spring, sprocket and chain. Or a whole xu10 pump complete with chain guard. And think about adding some sort of baffled sump, ie. a 'trap door' one from an Xu10 engine. This will help aiding against oil surge/starvation that the Mi16 is a little prone to!

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benny205mi16

Having only ever re-built a small (100cc) motorbike I have not had much to do with tunning, what is acctually meant by lightened and balanced? when I brought the engine I was told the flywheel was lightened and balanced, is this what you mean.

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Nathan

The term lightened and balanced (or blue printing) refers to precisely matching the weights of the conrods and pistons so they are all indentical. Once this is done attention is turned to balancing the crank. This is all quite specialised though and best left to people with the correct equipment/experience.

 

A well balanced engine will rev smoother, and should be capable of being reved higher than its standard counterpart.

 

Also lightening the flywheel enables the engine to rev up faster as there is less intial inertia to over come.

Edited by Nathan

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benny205mi16

Oh I see, I will have to look into this and any local firms to me that would be able to carry out such work. Thank you for your explanation.

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Hardgraf

Good luck mate. Trying to find an engine myself!

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