Guide - How To Change Track Rod Ends

[DirtyFlare 0]

I thought I would write a guild on how to change the track rod ends, as I have gained a great deal of knowledge from here so thought I would give something back.

 

Step 1

 

Park your car on level ground

 

Step 2

 

Loosen the wheel nuts on the front two wheels

 

Step 3

 

Jack the front of your car up and lower it onto axle stands

 

Step 4

 

Remove the wheel nuts and the two front wheels

 

Step 5

 

Undo the 17mm nut keeping the track rod end (TRE) attached to the hub carrier

 

 

Step 6

 

Wedge a balljoint splitter between the TRE and the hub carrier

 

 

Step 7

 

Tighten the balljoint splitter forcing the studding on the TRE through the hub carrier

 

Step 8

 

Using a wire brush clean the thread on the TRE and spray some WD40/penetrating oil onto the TRE locking nut

 

Step 9

 

Locate a 16mm spanner onto the flats on the track rod; these are further inside the wheel arch, to find them just follow along where the TRE is attached.

 

Step 10

 

Using a 22mm spanner and wedging the 16mm spanner so that it wont move, undo the locking nut on the TRE. Only undo the locking nut by a small amount

 

IMPORTANT

 

When undoing the TRE count how many turns it takes to undo it.

 

Step 11

 

Undo the TRE from the track rod; I found that you could use a 13mm on a flat on the TRE to help undoing it. If a 13mm spanner is no good use a pair of mole grips

 

Step 12

 

Check the old and new TRE next to each other. I found that my new TRE had a longer tread then the old one, but was the same overall length. If so move the locknut the same distance from the end of the tread on the new TRE as the old one.

 

Step 13

 

Put a little locktight onto the new TRE (this isn't necessary but it will just give you piece of mind)

 

Step 14

 

Screw the new TRE into the track rod the same amount of turns as the old one or until you hit the locknut, whichever you are working to.

 

Step 15

 

Relocated the 16mm spanner

 

Step 16

 

Tighten the locknut using the 22mm spanner

 

Step 17

 

Place the TRE through the hub carrier

 

Step 18

 

Locate the TRE nylock nut and tighten

 

Completion

 

Carrying out the same steps to do the other side of the car.

 

TREs only cost about £4 from a motor factors so its best practice to change both at the same time.

 

Put the wheels back on, tighten the wheel nuts back up to the correct torque (1.9 wheels 86Nm). Remove axle stands and lower car back down.

 

IMPORTANT

 

Book your car into a garage to have its tracking done AS SOON AS POSSIBLE because how ever careful you are the tracking will be slightly out.

 

I hope this thread will be of use

Edited November 19, 2007 by DirtyFlare

[ifcho 0]

Just a note, as I have done this mistake several times and always forget about it:

Step 6

 

Wedge a balljoint splitter between the TRE and the hub carrier

 

DO use a balljoint splitter, and if such is not available buy one. Only use hammer in emergencies and always place the nut on the TRE and use a piece of wood. Don't just bang on the TRE as you won't be able to fit the nut after that.

[Jrod 7]

But if you are swapping the TRE that doesn't matter, just smack it whilst shouting "AVE IT!"

Edited November 19, 2007 by Jrod

[ifcho 0]

well yes, in case you are swapping it, just slam it with the big hammer, and if it does not work, get a bigger hammer.

But lately I have been taking of and putting back on TREs almost as a daily job, so this seemed as a good advice

[Phil H 16]

can I add that it is easier to loosen the lock nuts on the tie rods before you bash the swivel pins out, as you don't need a spanner on the ie rod, althugh you do on the way back to keep the tracking setting in line.

[Beastie 1]

Forget how many turns it takes to undo the old TRE - someone may (and probably has) have maladjusted it in the past. Just make sure that each steering tie rod is *exactly* the same length between inner and outer ball jont

 

Don't even think about putting loctite a anywhere near the track rod ends. The world is full of people who are wondering how to free siezed TRE's -- dont make matters worse by adding loctite into the equation

 

 

Once you have made absolutely sure that each steering tie rod is exactly the same length then get your tracking done by someone who will adjust each tie rod by equal amounts in order to make any adjustments!

[mickie 3]

But if you are swapping the TRE that doesn't matter, just smack it whilst shouting "AVE IT!"

 

haha..

 

all i do is keep the nut on the rod end, having the nut slightly higher on the threads, and tap it off that way.. works ok for me

Edited November 20, 2007 by mickie

[DirtyFlare 0]

Don't even think about putting loctite a anywhere near the track rod ends. The world is full of people who are wondering how to free siezed TRE's -- dont make matters worse by adding loctite into the equation

 

fair enough, just the old TRE's had loctite on so thought i should put some on the new ones